Thread Number: 72662  /  Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Maytag a806 washer will not spin dry
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Post# 960116   10/1/2017 at 21:45 by tagok (Oklahoma)        

The mighty Maytag is operating through all cycles except the final spin dry. It will only hum when it gets to this point.
Checking the archives I found several similar cases but no exact matches. I am thinking it sounds like the timer could be faulty? Any help diagnosing the problem is greatly appreciated!





Post# 960127 , Reply# 1   10/1/2017 at 23:41 by rp2813 (The Big Blue Bubble)        

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If it's executing the drain and spin after the main wash but not after the deep rinse, it sounds like a timer issue.  Not the timer motor, but the timer mechanism.  If you're able to find a replacement timer, hang on to your old one, or at least keep its motor.


Post# 960130 , Reply# 2   10/1/2017 at 23:53 by brucelucenta ()        

Timer of course.

Post# 960144 , Reply# 3   10/2/2017 at 04:43 by tagok (Oklahoma)        
Maytag a806 timer

Many thanks to you all for your excellent help!
I should be able to find a timer on ebay, but if there is better place to loate one please let me know.


Post# 960151 , Reply# 4   10/2/2017 at 05:23 by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)        
Or have it rebuilt

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Post# 960165 , Reply# 5   10/2/2017 at 06:57 by d-jones (Western Pennsylvania (Pittsburgh Area))        
Before you buy a new timer

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if you're handy at all you might try opening your timer up to have a look. The symptom you're describing can be caused by fouled contacts in which case you might have a go at cleaning them up with some emery cloth or something similar. Fouled contacts are easy to spot and they should be accessible on both Kingston and Mallory timers. It's worth a try anyways.

Post# 960216 , Reply# 6   10/2/2017 at 11:17 by pumpkina (California)        

Is there any spray or chemical you can put on fouled contacts to prevent this from happening again?

Post# 960222 , Reply# 7   10/2/2017 at 12:17 by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture

if the contacts are fouled, preventative spray is a little too late.....

then again, that sounds like too much common sense....and why tigers eat their young!


Post# 960232 , Reply# 8   10/2/2017 at 13:24 by pumpkina (California)        

I mean once the timer is open and the contacts are exposed, is there something to put on them to prevent fouling in the future?

Post# 960235 , Reply# 9   10/2/2017 at 13:53 by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
oh, now why didn't I think of that?



but the answer is 'YES' there is......


Post# 960282 , Reply# 10   10/2/2017 at 19:27 by wayupnorth (On a lake between Bangor and Bar Harbor)        

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What is it Martin, dont keep us in suspense.

Post# 960287 , Reply# 11   10/2/2017 at 19:52 by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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what do you mean?


it was asked if there was something.....the answer is YES!


simple answer for a simple question....didn't want to make it too complicated for anyone to understand....


Post# 960293 , Reply# 12   10/2/2017 at 20:27 by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        
If the washer is doing the spin after the wash

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but not the final spin, yes it has timer problems, it is a bad cam however and NOT bad contacts and unless you want to build the cam back up with epoxy and precisely regrind it to orignal dimensions it is NOT repairable, find another new, rebuilt or used timer.

 

Timer contacts that handle 120 volts and 700 watts DO NOT get dirty and there is nothing that should be sprayed on them, you can spray some silicone lubricant on the timer cam if you like to make the timer turn and advance more smoothly if you like.

 

John L.


Post# 960539 , Reply# 13   10/4/2017 at 06:50 by TAGok (Oklahoma)        
a806 timer

Thanks again to all for the help and suggestions.
I have been in touch with the folks at appliancetimers.com and they are currently out of stock but say they have successfully repaired this type of timer before, so I may give them a shot at fixing mine.
In the mean time I've ordered a 'used fully functional' one off ebay to put in.


Post# 960588 , Reply# 14   10/4/2017 at 14:28 by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

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Good luck with it!


Post# 960738 , Reply# 15   10/5/2017 at 09:59 by d-jones (Western Pennsylvania (Pittsburgh Area))        
TAGok

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What do you intend to do with the old timer? If you have no plans for it I'd like to see it.

Post# 961162 , Reply# 16   10/7/2017 at 17:19 by TAGok (Oklahoma)        
motor

The new timer did not fix it, and the symptoms have gotten worse. Now it will not agitate drain or spin. The motor is only humming not turning. Time for a new motor. Anyone have the part number for the correct replacement motor?
I searched maytagreplacementparts.com and for the a806, got part #12002353 which is a whirlpool two speed motor. Do you guys think this one will work?


Post# 961206 , Reply# 17   10/7/2017 at 18:35 by speedqueen (Harrison Twp, Michigan)        
Just a suggestion,

Try disconnecting the belts and see if it turns then, also try moving the transmission pulley and check for excess resistance. Another thing, make sure that the motor carriage is clean and rust free as well as glides easily and smoothly, without the clutching action provided by the slip type belts and the motor carriage being free, it could easily trip the thermal overload. Does it have OEM Maytag belts, or aftermarket? That could make all the difference.

Check the pump too, it could be frozen or jammed.


Post# 961287 , Reply# 18   10/8/2017 at 05:25 by TAGok (Oklahoma)        
old timer

d-jones, I am going to keep the old timer for now. I might need it later on.

I found out the old motor part number is 2-1666, and the new motor 12002353 is correct according to maytagreplacementparts.com catalog.


Post# 961290 , Reply# 19   10/8/2017 at 05:52 by TAGok (Oklahoma)        

speedqueen, thanks for the very informative suggestions.
I have checked the motor glides and it does move on the tracks, but could be made to go smoother. Also I checked the pulleys and belt system and all are turning, but I checked them with the belts still on there. I will remove them as you suggested and check all the pulleys and motor again to see if they turn.
I have not looked at belt brand type, but will check that as well.
Could you tell me where is the thermal overload you mentioned? Maybe I could reset it?


Post# 961299 , Reply# 20   10/8/2017 at 07:24 by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        
Thermal Overload

combo52's profile picture

Is internal to the motor, if the motor is a round type it can be taken apart by a skilled person or motor shop and the TO can be replaced, it is NOT reset-able.

 

John L.


Post# 961315 , Reply# 21   10/8/2017 at 09:16 by TAGok (Oklahoma)        

combo52, thanks for that info!! I'll get the new parts on their way then. After 40 something years of service the washer deserves it!




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