Thread Number: 73264  /  Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Maytag Spin Problem
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Post# 967724   11/13/2017 at 14:31 by Spiraldasher (North East Ohio)        

Hi all,

I have three Maytag washers, one dependable care and two helical drive machines, all of which either are slow to spin up or are completely stuck. Any ideas on how to loosen them up, and how loose should they be? I can't turn any of these transmissions by hand, and I only came across one maytag transmission that I could turn easily.

Much appreciated,

SpiralDasher





Post# 967891 , Reply# 1   11/14/2017 at 09:19 by Spiraldasher (North East Ohio)        

Is it possible that a bearing just needs oiled?

Post# 967902 , Reply# 2   11/14/2017 at 10:24 by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
Hi Spiral Dasher

akronman's profile picture
For one thing, yes old bearings can need lube, and old Maytags can actually get a shot, like at a doctors.



www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/T...


And the last post in this great thread:

www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/T...

Also, have you checked the motor carriage and springs? There are cheap kits with new wheels, and old Maytags need that assembly where the wheels ride cleaned up and lubed. Try both these ideas, needle of oil and the carragie, as 2 first steps. But also see what some smarter folks say. Pics of the machines and motor would help, we'll know exactly what era Maytag you're asking about.
Thanks
Mark


Post# 967933 , Reply# 3   11/14/2017 at 15:41 by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
and another thing

akronman's profile picture
With GREAT CAUTION because the entire transmission spins around dangerously, put the machine into spin and then pull the motor closer to the left front corner, to put more tension on the belt. If that works for spinning, then your belts need to be replaced with Genuine Maytag belts, and you need to take a good look at the wheels under the motor and the cleanliness of the carriage it rides in, and the springs.

Genuine Maytag belts are truly needed whereas many other machines can use any old belt. Maytags have a unique coating that acts as a clutch when spin starts.

The entire motor should be able to travel easily about 1/2 inch or more.

Take some pics and vids of motor operation and sliding on it's wheels, it'll help with determining the problem. Try EVERYTHING before deciding it's the darn transmission.

The picture shows the moving carriage beneath the motor, neat and clean and springs working to hold it as close to the outer left corner as possible, maximum strengtht on the belt.


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Post# 967935 , Reply# 4   11/14/2017 at 15:51 by Spiraldasher (North East Ohio)        

Here are some pictures of the machines, along with agitator pics just for fun. The motors glide easily, and the belts look fine. At one point, the avocado maytag worked for me just fine, but only after some coaxing. All three will pump water and agitate just fine, but when it comes to rotation for spinning, by hand it requires a tremendous amount of effort just to get them to budge. I'll try oiling them up and will report back. Thanks for all the information!

SpiralDasher


  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 6         View Full Size
Post# 967941 , Reply# 5   11/14/2017 at 16:33 by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
search

akronman's profile picture
use the Searchalator here, maytag, needle, bearing, syringe, there's got to be a picture of the bearing you want to shoot oil into. It does NOT require much dissasembly at all, just a good flashlight while you're on the floor looking up above the transmission.

Other Maytag professionals here will soon have better advice, I'm only on my second Maytag so far, and so far no transmission problems, just that rusty carriage and little wheels and belts. I have a diabetic neighbor, she gave me a used hypodermic once, I squirted 2 shots of turbine oil into 2 different sides of a rubber bearing 4 years ago. Someone's pictures here will be better than my memory.
Keep us informed-

Mark


Post# 967959 , Reply# 6   11/14/2017 at 18:48 by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
if it wont spin....curious if the brake is not releasing....

there are times to add a teaspoon of oil to it for lubrication and to stop it from squealing...


Post# 968152 , Reply# 7   11/15/2017 at 17:24 by SpiralDasher (North East Ohio)        

Another thing that may help determine the cause of the problem in at least one washer: In the avocado one, when it does start to wash, it is very slow to get to full speed, about 45 seconds. It starts so slow that one could notice the individual gear clicks as the agitator moves back and forth.

Also, where are the bearings to be oiled, and how can I access them?

Thanks again,

SpiralDasher


Post# 968165 , Reply# 8   11/15/2017 at 18:10 by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

goatfarmer's profile picture

The bearings are inside the transmission.


Post# 968182 , Reply# 9   11/15/2017 at 18:59 by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
Hey MR SpiralD

akronman's profile picture
Check this last paragraph from this thread:
Sometime when you have the front panel off again, take a picture of the tub bearing and post it on here. It's between the bottom of the tub and the transmission. By looking at the rest of the machine, I'm willing to bet you have the old style tub bearing. If you do, it can be oiled very easily, without having to take the whole machine apart. And it sure helps it spin. You can find the spot under the machine by spinning the transmission until the trans. and the counter-weight are out of the way and then you'll have good access to the bearing. If you can get a hold of a hypodermic syringe (about 3cc's) and a large bore needle (maybe a 14, not sure), you can inject the bearing with 3 to 5cc's of turbine oil and when you pull out the needle the hole seals up. The rubber goes back together because the needle's not that big. The wicking inside the bearing soaks up the oil and when you put it into spin the bearing sucks up that oil and you've added years of life to your machine.


www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/T...

I'll try to get a picture from that A108S I've got, there is some rubber encased bearing that is accessible to a needle.
But lots of folks also have oil on the brakes ideas, etc, it may take all ideas around.
Good luck


Post# 968606 , Reply# 10   11/17/2017 at 19:19 by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
Hey spiral--

akronman's profile picture
Here's a picture of the "hockey puck" looking bearing case that you can shoot oil into with a needle. Above the transmission, below the tub.

Unfortunately, what I do NOT know how to do is add oil to the wet brakes.


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Post# 968719 , Reply# 11   11/18/2017 at 13:35 by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        
Non spinning MT Helical Drive washers

combo52's profile picture
The transmission has NOTHING to do with spinning, most likely the main spin bearing above the transmission has had water in it and must be replaced, if this is the case you need a seal and mounting stem kit and a new top bearing kit.

There is also a lower sealed ball bearing below the transmission, I have never seen one tighten up and keep a washer from spinning but they can get very loud if they have had water in them.

John L.


Post# 968922 , Reply# 12   11/19/2017 at 13:17 by Spiraldasher (North East Ohio)        
One down, two to go!

Thank you all for the input! I've gotten the green one up and running, hopefully back in service within a week or two. I'll soon begin on the others. Also, how could I post a video without using another website, such as YouTube?

Thanks again,

SpiralDasher


Post# 968924 , Reply# 13   11/19/2017 at 13:35 by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
Hey SpiralDasher

akronman's profile picture
Tell us what got the green one properly spinning? What all did you do? It's often a combination of oiling the brake, making sure the carriage is clean and strong springs and lubed wheels in their tracks, etc.

Congratulations, the green one looks pretty high end


Post# 968963 , Reply# 14   11/19/2017 at 18:32 by SpiralDasher (North East Ohio)        

It was actually a combination of cleaning all of the pulleys and the motor carriage, along with coming to the realization that the inner tub was scraping against the top of the outer tub and adjusting it likewise. The other two machines are out in the back of my unheated barn, so I will be bringing them up to my garage to work on as soon as possible. Pictures to follow.

SpiralDasher





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