Our 40+ year old Insinkerator crapped out on us late last year, and we replaced it with a GE Model GFC530V.  It actually performs better than the old one ever did.  I recommend this model very highly.

So here's the opinion of a guy who does lots and lots of them.

1) Don't worry about the easy-mount system - if your current disposal is a Badger, then any disposal you buy will fit that easy-mount collar without difficulty. There's even an inexpensive adapter (and it actually works) to fit the other design to the one in your sink.

2) While the Badger 100 is a very popular one, they have a horrible problem lasting much beyond three years unless they are in constant use. Vital components rust out unless flushed constantly. Many of the Chinese knock-offs with 'stainless steel' and 'non-corroding' (means plastic) parts still use regular steel under the chamber and it still rusts through in, well, about three years.

3) I've not had a single problem with any of the InSinkErator Evolve units I've installed, some have now been running for over 10 years.

4) The Evergrind disposals offered by Menards are easier to install (pre-wired) and they hook-up to the easy-mount collar perfectly. They also have been subject to some scary recalls.

5) The GE system, which uses a brushed motor, will require either the adapter (no big deal, don't let anyone tell you otherwise, I do them all the time and if I can do it....) or replacing the three-bolt mounting collar, seems to last a bit longer when you get into the stainless steel designs.

6) If you want reversing and three-chamber grinding, go with the Evolution Excel Garbage Disposal by InSinkErator. It's a no-compromise unit at a reasonable price (about $400). If you've never installed one before, a third hand will help, but it fits the same collar as you currently have so you can definitely do it yourself.

I am of the opinion that the main reasons why a plumber might say Badgers are the most popular is because they are CHEAP.  I regard them as garbage disposer bottom feeders. They appear to be "contractor grade", which generally means they'll last long enough for the contractor to be paid ;-).

This house came with a vintage brand disposer (original Waste King, I think) but it kept on overloading and needing resetting until finally I replaced it with a 3/4 HP "Titan" from Costco, about 15 years ago. The Titan has worked flawlessly, never clogs or bogs. It has stainless steel components so rusting is not a concern.  A drawback, if any, is that the diameter of the opening is a bit less than that of the previous model. So my hand won't fit in there. That may not actually be a drawback, though. Another issue may be the thin nature of the sink flange that comes with these units. It dents easily. However it is backed up by a strong black plastic and although the one in my sink as accumulated a lot of dents, it still works fine and doesn't leak. And I notice that newer models may come with a variety of sink flanges, like stainless, bronze, white, etc., so if one dents too much there are always spares... Ironically, the same design used in the Titan is now sold under the Waste King name... but of course they are not the same internally as the vintage Waste Kings.

I bought a second 1-1/4 HP Titan a few years ago to put into the second kitchen in the enclosed patio. I've held off on that because that installation would require some electrical work which I'm not too keen on at the moment. Meanwhile the 3/4 HP Titan in the main kitchen seems to have more than enough power.

As for disposer pros and cons... I'm convinced they make food prep a lot quicker... no need to worry about small bits clogging a strainer... and one can send stuff that might rot and fester in the under-sink wastebasket, down the disposer instead, out of sight/mind/aroma.

The Titan disposers are often on sale a local Costcos for $80. Here's a link to where one can be ordered on-line. The same design seems to also be sold under the name Waste King which is available on Amazon...

Purists may disdain the Titan/Anaheim/Joneca disposers because they are high speed (2600 rpm) and made in China. As far as speed goes, it seems to do the job nicely and is also quieter than lower speed older designs. As for made in China... that's become the new normal, hasn't it? The company does say they are American engineered and designed, for whatever that's worth.

Which are good for my business, but bad for customers:

1) You're wasting water! The millisecond the disposal is done grinding, turn that water off! Oh, my paws and whiskers! You're wasting water!

2) A disposal which isn't in use doesn't wear out.

A cheap Badger will last and work very well for a very long time if you flush it thoroughly with plenty of water. Says so in the instructions. Even if you don't use it every day, you need to flush it to stop the rust from building up.

Misconception #2:

Stainless Steel and Plastique are truly non-corroding in this environment. Yee-Haw. Just, the seals and the drive components hooking the plate up to the motor? Surprise, dahlinks - they are NOT stainless steel! No, sir, they are not. That's why flushing is so important. But, heh, yeah: You're wasting water! They don't make that anymore! Denkt niemand an den Kindern!!!!

I've had my GE 1 hp continuous feed since February 1994 with hardly a hiccup.  Has clogged the pipe that goes across to the pipe that leads out to the sewer drain probably less than 10 times in all that time.  I throw just about everything at it (not beef bones.  It's on my left sink bowl and dishwasher drains in the right hand sink drain.  Many times after intense grinding, I'll fill the sink up[ with about 3 to 4 inches of cold water and drain the sink and run the disposer to flush out good.  This one has lasted 23 years and 10 months compared to the ISE builder model, which lasted  9.5 months at most.  I was without a disposer for a month or two.  But had to get a new one as I was having all my family for an extended weekend for my parents' 50th wedding anniversary. 

I have no doubt the GE that's sold today is nowhere near the quality of what I got almost 24 years ago.  I guess the Evolution XTR would be the appropriate replacement.  I doubt Waste King can hold a candle to it either. 

Not only Evergrind but several other cheap Chinese knock-offs have had safety recalls for various problems (I still refuse to use the word 'issues' for a problem, what a silly thing. Don't much care for 'impact' as a verb, either).

The whole 'using the garbage disposal' to actually, you know, get rid of garbage (including bones) or not divides many a household. After my dear husband's friends threw all the wet garbage in the trash compactor and the damned bag split all across the floor on me, I threw a temper tantrum of truly epic proportions. These are the dear souls who don't run the dishwasher if it's only twice as full as a Bob-load (you could still put a plastic toothpick in there, somewhere, they're sure. The ones who never use paper towels but only cloth (including the towels one of them just used to wash the dog's face. Not that I don't love the dog, but, ewww - in the kitchen???) And who, never, ever put anything down the garbage disposal and freak like mad when I put anything more sturdy than a tomato peel down it.

You know what? I throw everything in, banana peels, potato skins, bones (yes, dear pearl-clutchers, bones and not just chicken bones. Everything. It's what it's there for.

OK - end of rant, but, really - we've long since established that what kills these appliances is the mounting point between the plate and the motor (it's not stainless steel) and the various seals. Not what you use it for. Just be sure to flush with lots and lots of running water and everything will be fine.

The vintage Waste King (slow) that was in this house when I bought it must have been at least 15 years old. It was my first exposure to a garbage disposer, so I didn't know quite what to expect. But I was not happy that it managed to let mass quantities of sauerkraut through untouched, which then proceeded to clog the drain from kitchen to main sanitary line. Unfortunately there was a laundry closet and a shower/bath/sink along the way. So the shower stall would back up when the washer was run, due to the recurrent kitchen/Waste King clogs.

Eventually the Waste King kept jamming (had to be reset) so much it was useless to even try running it. It would jam if you looked at it sideways. The kicker was when it would jam on nothing more heinous than a rubber band. I got a 50 ft power auger and cleaned out the main kitchen/laundry/bath drain, and installed the aforementioned Titan. Guess what? No more  jams, no more clogs, no more shower stall flooding. Yay.

Now, I love vintage appliances as much as anyone here. But when they have lived out their useful lives, and perform a function that is vital to keeping the house in proper function, it's time to replace them, and usually that means a new and improved version. Nobody wants to commute in a Model-T, after all.

I have a Kenmore 2002 model similar to vacertor's.  Made by Insinkerator, 3/4 h.p. with stainless steel grind chamber, parts and reversing motor. No problems so far.

Had it installed when I bought this 1956 ranch, the house never had a GD or dishwasher before.

All was good for a year or so until potato peels caused a clog.  After that I never used it for anything but the bits left over from rinsing dishes.  I still like having it for that reason and run it every day.  Don't know if I'm being overly cautious but once burned...

We have a three-stage disposal, so I don't worry about the stringy stuff, etc, but, yes - the ice cube trick works well and so (gasp!, the horror of it all!) so do bones.

Mainly, though - flush, flush, flush. If you're one of those people who can't stand the thought of letting the water run after the disposal is done grinding, then you simple may not use a garbage disposal. It's that simple. Back when dishwashers actually used water to clean, those 8-11 gallons were enough. Today, that trickle of 40ml just ain't gonna stop the slime buildup.

We need to return to batch mode systems. That would be the best answer.

Grease is the mortal enemy of drains. There are wonderful photos of "Fat Bergs" clogging the sewers of London, probably from people dumping their fish & chips fryers in the drains. Things have changed since the World Wars when housewives were encouraged to save all fats in the kitchen to donate to the war effort. I think the fat could be used in explosives. Maybe also burned as fuel in the naval steam engines of the day.

Best to keep an old can in the kitchen to receive any fats/oils instead of dumping down the drain. Then it can be used to make soap (if  you dare) or popped into the trash (hefty bagged) for pickup. If it's too runny, just pop it in the freezer overnight, it should stiffen up.

Some fats down the drain can be unavoidable, such as what accumulates on plates and bowls and even pots and pans. But gross amounts do not belong in the drain. Even if they are liquid in the kitchen, the cool temps in the sewer can solidify them.

And lest we Yanks get too smug about it, Baltimore has its very own huge fatberg now...

Kenmore 3/4hp with stainless chamber, plate, and shredder ring, auto reversing motor, been in service for 19 years.  It will grind anyone I choose to put down it.

I was at Costco last night, and saw that they are carrying the American Standard version of the 1-1/4 HP Titan. This time with a 3-bolt attachment system, which some here seem to favor. A box was open so I fished out the owner's manual to confirm the mfg is "Joneca", which is the same company that "makes" the Titan and other various clones. I regard these as good disposers, at a reasonable price, and so far they seem to be long-lasting.

at 70$ right now as a Westinghouse.

Yeah, I know - but they do have good reviews. 

Just did another garbage disposal this morning for a customer.

Would have like to pick one up, but they'd already chosen a Badger 900. Which is not a bad machine, though, like all stainless steel units of that lineage - the motor attachment is still plain old steel. 

Regarding stainless vs plain steel and flushing...

The Achilles heel of most stainless steel is chlorine, either as the element or as part of a salt. The element, found in chlorine bleach, is quite corrosive to stainless - there are numerous tales of home brewers disinfecting their stainless equipment with chlorine bleach solution, but failing to rinse it completely out. What happens is that droplets of bleach solution left inside the vessels can slowly dry out, increasing the chlorine concentration to the point where it causes pinhole corrosion in the vessels, leading to pinholes, which means they can no longer be used to hold liquids esp not under pressure.

The main element in stainless steel that gives it corrosion resistance is chromium. Upon exposure to air, it creates a very thin layer of chromium oxide, which prevents the iron in the metal from combining with oxygen and rusting. However, salt water or chlorine bleach can attack the chromium oxide, resulting in corrosion of the metal underneath it. Very cheap stainless has only chromium for corrosion resistance, and that cheap stainless will fairly quickly corrode (rust) if left in contact with salt water for a prolonged time. More expensive stainless has nickel in addition to the chromium, and the nickle acts to protect the chromium as well as provide its own corrosion resistance. In terms of corrosion resistance, from lousy to pretty good, you go from 18-0 (18% chromium, 0% nickel), to 18-8, 18-10, then up to 18-12. 18-10 is what I usually look for in flatware and such. The usual alloy is #304. A few percent of molybdenum also helps to protect the chromium oxide layer, and according to the sources I've seen, that's generally called 316 grade and may be preferred for marine environments.  Above that, you start to get into the high nickel alloys like Inconel, Monel, which are very corrosion and heat resistant, but as you might imagine, much more expensive than the usual consumer grades. Very high nickel alloys are used in such things as jet engine turbine blades and afterburners, because they are so heat resistant. They are also very difficult to machine, but that's another story. And as you might imagine, there are a lot of different alloys produced by tweaking the percent and type of alloying elements added.

The reason why I bring this all up is from Panthera's recommendation to flush the drain thoroughly after using a disposer. I would imagine, based on the above, while it's important for normal food scraps, it's even more important if one cleans a sink with a chlorine containing bleach. You don't want droplets of a bleach solution drying out on stainless (or regular steel, for that matter), becoming more and more concentrated as they dry, and causing pinhole leaks/fractures/mayhem.

Many years ago when I didn't know better, I bought a set of flatware that turned out to be 18-0 stainless. It worked fine as long as I kept it clean and dry. But I got a taste of how vulnerable it can be, when I lost a spoon in the garden. I found it a few weeks later, and it looked quite corroded and rusted. I was a bit surprised. After that I got some 18-8 flatware and have kept better track of its whereabouts :-).

I have three compost bins, a cubic yard each, that are going most of the year. And they get the garden clippings and meat/nitrogen waste from the kitchen. I still use the sink disposer for stuff that falls into the sink during food prep, instead of clogging a strainer, which I dislike trying to clean. A properly managed compost bin, with a good ratio of "brown" to "green" doesn't stink even if you add meat scraps to it, and the lid on the bins keeps rats and mice out of it. The center of the bin reaches 140F or more from natural processes, enough to kill pathogens and render the compost safe for a vegetable garden.

I don't put any food out for raccoons or possums. They still come around, occasionally, attracted to stuff like avocados and other fruit trees in the yard. And the fish pond, which I've had to protect with high voltage fido shock wiring. I don't much mind the possums, but raccoons are bad news - they often carry a nasty round worm which can make humans very sick - like blind or dead. Raccoons like to create communal toilets on tops of flat roofing, and their scat can contain millions of these roundworm eggs. And the baby raccoons can be very infectious. The only sure way to kill those eggs is with a blow torch. I've also had to protect flat roofing around here with the fido shock wiring. It is irresponsible to feed wild raccoons; it only increases their numbers and the chances of humans contracting Baylisascaris procyonis. And keeping a not dewormed raccoon as a pet is just rolling the dice in a situation where one is likely to lose.

No bears or other large predators/scavengers around here, and those raccoons or possums that do come around don't disturb the bins.

And one big reason for rinsing thoroughly. Another one: The dratted stainless and plastic is not all of the garbage disposer. At some point, they are joined to plain old steel. I won't write again what the manufacturers suggest, but it's worth reading up how long they say you should flush after grinding and doing so.

The whole nature is great thing-y is wonderful. I've lots of German friends and relations who do that. We have bears here. Anybody seriously wanna try that? Wait, let me set up the cameras first. Bound to be a slasher film being made in Hollywood someday soon which could use the footage. 

If I lived in bear country, I'd get some bear-proof compost bins. Or bear-proof enclosures to put the plastic bins inside.

Raccoons are dangerous animals. My neighbor's miniature dogs were attacked one night last year in her back yard, on ended up in the vet hospital. She doesn't let them out there at night any more.

If people secured their food garbage and didn't leave pet food outside, the raccoon problem would be reduced.

PS-At a compost website I have visited, some people say they have rigged up a garbage disposer near their compost bin - they take the food scraps out there and run them through the disposer, which is mounted over a bucket. Then  the bucket content goes into the bin. It's an interesting idea, however, I have found, other than bones, the bacteria, fungus, beetles, and worms make short work of most food scraps anyway. Most important is to layer the food scraps between layers of "brown" such as dry leaves, hay, or hedge clippings. This mixture promotes aerobic bacteria as well as the variety of microbes needed for efficient decomposition. The resultant compost usually has the texture and aroma of rich loam, and plants love it.

I've read that raccoons, which are native to the Americas, have become quite a problem in Europe, where they were imported by foolish people who let them go.

It's that they are attracted to the scent, stick around and attack and kill people.

Here in Cheyenne, we recently had a number of smaller dogs and rabbits go missing. 'Smaller dogs' being defined as 'smaller than a rottweiler'. Turns out there was more than one mountain lion living in the middle of town.

Composting of vegetation is an excellent thing. Of foods which attract bears, not so much.

Oh, yeah, raccoons. They're taking over Germany. It's a really good example of what happens when you have an imported species and not enough (or no) indigenous predators. What makes things worse - a lot of kids find them 'cute' and they're smart enough not to attack the kids. Like the coyote mothers bringing their pups (that's the right term, dahlinks, coyotes, not wolves here) to school yards in LA to entice the kids into feeding them and, well, gosh. We're not the only invasive species on the planet. 

I doubt I could learn German or English as foreign languages, I'm just not that bright.

Multiple topics to address:

1) Chipper-shredder: I've had a 6 HP Patriot chipper-shredder for nearly 20 years now. It's essential for processing various garden and landscape trimmings, which are mainly the english ivy that has infested three side fences on the property. It's a noxious weed, but it does afford some privacy and it also makes excellent compost. If shredded. I *might* use the chipper/shredder for post processing finished compost to deal with any bones that linger, but it's far too much of a PITA to haul it out of its cover and run it just to shred some kitchen scraps. But like I said, it's not really necessary to pulverize meats/etc to get them to decompose. It's the leaves and stems that need the reduction.

Good compost requires both nitrogen rich and carbon rich ingredients. Dead leaves are a good source of carbon ("brown"). Recently living leaves provide nitrogen; meat and animal remains are even better for that ("Green"). Back when I as planning my compost strategy, I consulted a number of sources. Dedicated compost advocates have no problem with adding meat etc. to compost bins. The extremists will even add human solid waste. I'm not about to do that!

People who clutch their pearls over the prospect of adding meat to compost bins or piles: where to they think wild animals go when they die? Sure, some wind up scavenged, but scavengers don't get everything, and natural decomposition of dead animals enriches the soil. I've read that river salmon wind up fertilizing forests - the bears catch the spawning salmon, take them into the forest, eat mostly fat rich skin and eggs, and discard the rest to enrich the forest floor. And then we all know what else bears do in the woods.

2) Raccoon pelts: it's illegal in this state (California), without the proper license (presumably a fur-trapping one) to kill a depredating raccoon for its pelt or meat. I imagine fur-trapping licenses are difficult to obtain.

3) Dogs as raccoon control: Not sure I'd want to subject a dog to the fangs and claws of a wild raccoon. But I applaud that canine anyway.

4) Meat etc in compost bins - if done properly, it should not emit off odors to attract large scavengers. There is both an art and a science to it. Still, bears will dig for grubs, so who knows? As far as attracting bears that then attack people: if the bears don't get rewarded with scraps they probably will stop coming around. They are not stupid animals.

Rich wrote:

'Meat etc in compost bins - if done properly, it should not emit off odors to attract large scavengers. There is both an art and a science to it. Still, bears will dig for grubs, so who knows? As far as attracting bears that then attack people: if the bears don't get rewarded with scraps they probably will stop coming around. They are not stupid animals.'

Bears' noses are going to beat any reasonable (or unreasonably thorough) sealing system for garbage. They're not a problem here in the middle of town, but we have people attacked and killed by them regularly, so it's a genuine concern. The way to prevent it is not to tempt them. They don't come around then. As much. Interesting animals and nearly everything people 'know' about them who don't live in bear country is wrong, wrong, wrong. I remember in school having to describe the 'current' range of the grizzly bear ending in Cody Wyoming back in the early 1970s on an exam...whilst the local newspapers were full of the death of a young couple from a thoroughly documented grizzly attack just up a canyon in our town nearly 400 miles to the south of the very, absolute last tip of the ultimate range of that bear.

We have deer, antelope, mountain lions, a slowly recovering fox population and raccoons to deal with in the middle of town every single winter. No reason to add in bears. Even mountain lions will back off if they calculate the risk outweighs the food. Not so bears.

Compost is a wonderful thing. So are garbage disposers.

Been watching "Alaskan Bush People", and their second home was on an island in the Alaskan peninsula that has some of the highest concentration of bears. None of the family ever got attacked by bears, but their house was broken into at least twice by bears while they were off the island. But these people were very bear savvy and knew how to discourage them. And they always went hiking in pairs and armed. Well, almost. The oldest son is a bit crazy and would go off alone, and one of the last episodes saw him getting injured by explosives he said he was preparing to use to repel the bears.

I've back packed extensively in the Sierra Nevada - alone and unarmed - and knew how to avoid bear confrontations. Hang your food as high as possible every night, bury your own scat, etc. However, the bears here are "black bears", which are smaller and less aggressive than "brown bears" or grizzly bears. Basic lessons: don't leave food out for bears; never try to take food from a bear; never get in between a mother bear and her cubs; never run from a bear; make lots of noise on the trail so any bears know you are coming. Nearly all of them would rather avoid contact with humans. I don't blame them!

I have a old 1970 Wasteking SS3000 . Its a 1/2 Hp cast steel grind ring .Stainless steel everything else . The disposer also

has under-cutters below the flywheel. 

Waste-king and Old Maytags and Old G.E. disposers are by far the best disposer I have ever used and I have owned over 200 different brands.

The ones out today are junk compared to what the used to make. I have never had a clog with those three brands

and I put everything down mine.

The I.S.E. Excel is pretty good but so $$$ and my old ones still grind much finer.

Hit me up if you need any help..

The Evolution will fit those parameters nicely. Don't expect the plumbing to ever line up perfectly - it rarely does!

However, thanks to the flexible connections now sold by The Home Depot (and others), it's easy to correct even a major mis-match.