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Thread Number: 73711
/ Tag: Air Conditioners
Honeywell thermostat |
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Post# 973550 , Reply# 1 12/13/2017 at 21:59 (2,324 days old) by wayupnorth  (On a lake between Bangor and Bar Harbor, Maine) |
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I have 2 Honeywell round thermostats, one up, one down that were installed 22+ years ago. Being the wind chill with brutal temps is sub-zero right now, they kick on the boiler exactly where I leave them set and I am comfortable. I leave the temp set and dont want a digital up-down. Set it and forget it is what I do.
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Post# 973555 , Reply# 3 12/13/2017 at 22:21 (2,324 days old) by petek (Ontari ari ari O ) |
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Our house still has its original Honeywell roundie from 1958.. Since we have boiler heat there's no point in changing it to something more modern with setbacks and setting for non existant air conditioning , we have a mini split for that.
I put one of the new plastic roundies in moms house about 9 years ago and I had to get it in Michigan because all the ones in Ontario are in celcius. She didn't like celcius because there's not as many degree markers on the dials plus she was old and liked her Fahrenheit. lol | ||
| Post# 973557 , Reply# 4 12/13/2017 at 22:29 (2,324 days old) by johnrk (BP TX) | ||
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petek- What's a 'mini split'? | ||
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Post# 973569 , Reply# 6 12/13/2017 at 23:57 (2,324 days old) by petek (Ontari ari ari O ) |
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| Post# 973824 , Reply# 8 12/15/2017 at 16:06 (2,322 days old) by gfm8959 (Long Island, NY) | ||
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Setbacks Do they really save fuel or is it better to "set and forget" at one constant setting?? | ||
| Post# 973830 , Reply# 10 12/15/2017 at 16:52 (2,322 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada) | ||
I collect Honeywell stuff, mostly thermostats!
I have a few that I'll probably never use but I like them anyway! The round one in my kitchen is labeled as a Crane, I have a similar NOS cooling thermostat that I don't use since I don't have central a/c. There used to be an humidificator the humidistat was left there when the previous owners removed it. I have no idea how it worked since I have hot water heating, no ducting. I also have Honeywell Tap Lite switches. The thermostat for the bedrooms is a rectangular Honeywell too. The one in the garage is newer round thermostat but still quite old. I also have an indoor/outdoor thermometer and quite a few old Honeywell thermometers. I also have a few with a setback timer, including two round ones with a mechanical timer. Here are a few pictures. | ||
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Post# 973836 , Reply# 11 12/15/2017 at 17:17 (2,322 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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 Family's 1964 house had a Honeywell of this style. Heat-only system. Had separate Heat (left side) and Cool (right side) setpoint levers on top. Cool was always at the max end of the range although it wouldn't do anything regardless of the setting.
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Post# 974018 , Reply# 12 12/16/2017 at 12:52 (2,322 days old) by GusHerb (Chicago/NWI) |
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These are the two drawers dedicated to thermostats. I need to thin out some of the digital thermostats. | ||
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Post# 974019 , Reply# 13 12/16/2017 at 13:04 (2,321 days old) by moparwash (Pittsburgh,PA ) |
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Digital Round 
Here is the Digital Round, that I replaced the non-digital one in 2007. It displays the room temperature, but when you turn the dial, it shows the set temperature and automatically lights up when you turn the knob. You can push the light button to light it up as well. 70-72 is good in the winter and 76-77 is good in the summer. When I got it, the instructions in English were missing, so it was either wing it on the installation (which was not hard), or learn Spanish!
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| Post# 974048 , Reply# 15 12/16/2017 at 15:37 (2,321 days old) by IowaBear (Cedar Rapids, IA) | ||
 Phil - enjoyed seeing those photos.
I grew up with the rectangular gold Honeywell, #5 in your photo set. It was in use from the time my family bought the home in 1970 to when the furnace was replaced in mid-2000s. I think the furnace was nearly 50 years old when it was replaced but I'm not 100% sure.
Do you know year were those made? | ||
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Post# 974079 , Reply# 17 12/16/2017 at 17:14 (2,321 days old) by Moparwash (Pittsburgh,PA ) |
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Post# 974117 , Reply# 19 12/16/2017 at 20:44 (2,321 days old) by GusHerb (Chicago/NWI) |
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Two of my electromechanical programmable thermostats shown here, and a few of my oldest ones as well. The Carrier was the one that controlled my grandmas 1960 Carrier furnace, I imagine it came in the box with the furnace. | ||
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Post# 974339 , Reply# 20 12/17/2017 at 20:42 (2,320 days old) by cuffs054 (MONTICELLO, GA) |
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GusHerb, the unit in pic 6 far left looks like the one on my Aunts HVAC unit. Can you help me understand how it controlled both function with no other controls? | ||
| Post# 974350 , Reply# 22 12/17/2017 at 22:22 (2,320 days old) by diesirae7 (Central Illinois) | ||
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nice collection you have! I've saved a few, there is a heating supply store here that still has new ones in stock, if you are looking for a certain one I can see if they have it. They also have lots of vintage NOS plumbing, like sinks and toilets still new in the box from the 1970s. | ||
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Post# 974353 , Reply# 23 12/17/2017 at 22:42 (2,320 days old) by GusHerb (Chicago/NWI) |
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Wow! Sounds like I need to make a trip! | ||
| Post# 974450 , Reply# 24 12/18/2017 at 12:15 (2,320 days old) by ken (NYS) | ||
This thread came at an opportune time as I just got three used round, mechanical, heat only Honeywell thermostats that I installed and have a few questions I hope someone here might answer.
The one Im having most trouble with is a T87F2873. It has provision for three wire hookup. Base plate states Red to R, White to Y and Blue to W. The system is hot water radiator and uses only two wires. Only way thermostat works is hooking wires to R and Y but it operates backwards. If I turn the set temp lower than the room temp it turns circulator on. If I turn the set temp higher than the room temp it turns circulator off. I knew it wouldn’t make a difference but I reversed the wires and it operated the same. The other two I installed are not the exact same model as above (I don’t have the model number of them while I write this) and seem to be working okay but there are a couple things Ive noticed with them. Number one will allow the room temp to drop at least three degrees below the set temp and not call for heat. Just how much its allowing the room temp to drop before turning the circulator on Im not sure. How many degrees is acceptable? Should it be calling for heat when the room temp drops exactly to the set temp? Number two consistently shows a room temp 6-8 degrees above the set temp. I realize that after being satisfied and turning the circulator off the room temp will continue to rise some but this is not the case. Im finding the higher room temps with the baseboard cold to the touch. So it seems the thermostat is keeping the room temp higher than what its set for. What is the adjustment made with the copper colored pointer at the 5 o’clock position? The scale below the pointer has numbers 1.2, .8, .6, .5, .4, .3, .2, .15, .12, .10. At the right end of the scale is the word LONGER with an arrow pointing towards the left. For some reason the pointer on the T87F2873 will not move the full range of the scale like it does on the other two. Thanks for any info anyone here might be able to give me. | ||
| Post# 974473 , Reply# 25 12/18/2017 at 15:53 (2,319 days old) by ken (NYS) | ||
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Okay. Did some checking online and looks like thermostat should be hooked to R and W for heat only. Im sure I tried that but will try again and see what I get. As far as adjustment scale at 5 o'clock position I see that is to be set on the number that corresponds to the current rating of the primary control of the system. Something must be jammed or broken in thermostat that's not allowing the pointer to be moved full length of the scale.
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| Post# 974508 , Reply# 26 12/18/2017 at 18:33 (2,319 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada) | ||
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Ken, if your baseplate has no switch for heat/cool, you want the wires to be connected to the two lower left terminals of the baseplate, the upper right terminal is for cooling. If for some reason, the thermostat doesn't work with these terminals connected, there must be a problem with it.
As for the anticipator, from what range can you adjust it? This model should be adjustable from 0.1 to 1.2 according to this: customer.honeywell.com/en-US/pag... As for your thermostats keeping the room too cool or too hot, first, verify that the red pointer shows the actual room temperature accurately (with at least another thermometer as a reference next to it). If it does, then the angle of the baseplate might have to be adjusted a bit so the mercury switch trips at the correct temperature (that might cause the thermostat not to be perfectly level but if it's more accurate like that, that's better!). And you have to make sure that the anticipator works and that it's set correctly so the system cycles on and off the appropriate time to maintain the room temperature. On my system, they should be set at 0.4 but I set them at slightly shorter settings around 0.35. The temperature is constant and follows the pointer setting on my old thermostats, at 0.4, the cycles are a bit too long and they'll still call for heat for a long time and the room temp would rise a bit above the set temperature. On most of my old thermostats, I had to adjust the thermometers so the pointer shows the correct room temperature and I didn't install them perfectly level to compensate for wear(?) or incorrect adjustment of the bi-metal. I had a few with anticipators that either didn't set low enough or didn't seem to work at all but most worked just fine. | ||
| Post# 974525 , Reply# 27 12/18/2017 at 20:00 (2,319 days old) by ken (NYS) | ||
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Phil
Thanks for the info. The two left terminals are R and W. I will try them and see what I get. The pointer on the anticipator has very little travel. Only from .275 (the line right of .3) to half way between .2 and .15.
I know the anticipator isn't set correctly on the other two. I will do that and then see how they act. | ||
| Post# 974549 , Reply# 29 12/19/2017 at 00:33 (2,319 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada) | ||
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I assume the thermostats have to be set to the current draw of the gas valve (in amps) on single zone systems that don’t use switching relays? My system uses 3 RA832A switching relays and they apparently require the thermostats to be set at 0.4 amps. At least, that’s what I understand from the first picture below.
I also took a few pics showing different thermostats in a 1965 Honeywell Tradeline catalog and a picture of a few more thermostats I have. | ||
| Post# 974559 , Reply# 32 12/19/2017 at 01:45 (2,319 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada) | ||
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There are no zone valves in my heating system, I have two old Taco Perfecta 152 circulators (the one for the garage is a newer and smaller 007).
The 152 circulators are early wet rotor circulators from the late 1950s or early 1960s, they still have a removable back cover and there's also a bleeding screw on this cover. The model 195 that followed still had a bleeding screw but no cover at the back. www.taco-hvac.com/archive... | ||
| Post# 974560 , Reply# 33 12/19/2017 at 01:51 (2,319 days old) by diesirae7 (Central Illinois) | ||
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Very nice! Always nice to see a clean boiler room! There should be a Taco air scoop in a horizontal run out of the boiler to catch air and a self venting brass valve on it. Also a good idea to open the bleeders on the radiators once a season to make sure there is no air in the system. | ||
| Post# 974561 , Reply# 34 12/19/2017 at 02:19 (2,319 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada) | ||
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Jonathan, I have some Honeywell T-832A round thermostats that have weird anticipators, away from the bi-metal coil. I don't quite understand how they work!
I partially dismantle one to fix the setback timer mechanism and I took pictures of it while parts were removed... The pictures show two different thermostat, both were new in box. The first one (T832A 1000 in the 3 first pictures) doesn't have a on/off switch and it's anticipator can't be set lower than 0.4 amps. I tried it briefly and my heating system would stop much too late with the anticipator set at 0.4 amps so I replaced it with a regular thermostat and I didn't bother trying the other one once I fixed it's mechanical timer. That one (T832A-1083 in pictures 4-5) has an anticipator that can be set to 0.1 amps. They both have wires that run from the anticipator to the bi-metal coil. | ||
| Post# 974562 , Reply# 35 12/19/2017 at 02:37 (2,319 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada) | ||
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Troy,
I just replaced the 4 Vent-O-Mist valves this week as some were corroded and occasionally leaking and I didn't trust leaving them open, I added a 9AS automatic shortstop to each. Pictures 1 to 6 show how it was before and 7 to 11 show the new valves. I don't have a Taco air scoop but there's an American air purger that I guess is similar on the picture 11. | ||
| Post# 974604 , Reply# 37 12/19/2017 at 11:06 (2,319 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada) | ||
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I meant Maid-O-Mist in my previous post!
As for the heat anticipator, I'm wondering how it works in this T-832A thermostat (which is heat-only) but it certainly didn't work too well in the one I tried! The anticipator not only is located far away at the top of the thermostat, it's insulated from the timer mechanism (in the metal housing) which doesn't even extend below the bi-metal coil. I guess the amount of heat from this that gets to the coil is very small! And since it's wired to the coil, I'm wondering if there's some resistive material that might generate heat on the bi-metal coil itself? I should try the other one I got with the anticipator that can be set at a lower (shorter) setting but that means changing the mounting plate again as those thermostats are much larger than the regular T86/T87 and they use a different mounting plate. This post was last edited 12/19/2017 at 11:22 | ||
| Post# 974609 , Reply# 40 12/19/2017 at 11:40 (2,319 days old) by Maytagbear (N.E. Ohio) | ||
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That's IT Oh, how I dislike it!!! Thank you, GusHerb. L/Mb | ||
| Post# 974680 , Reply# 42 12/19/2017 at 22:50 (2,318 days old) by diesirae7 (Central Illinois) | ||
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Digital has come a long way for sure... | ||
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Post# 974697 , Reply# 43 12/20/2017 at 01:31 (2,318 days old) by GusHerb (Chicago/NWI) |
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Preliminary results look good.
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| Post# 975137 , Reply# 44 12/23/2017 at 10:02 (2,315 days old) by TheSpiritOf76 (Goodbye Yellow Brick Road, and OZ All Together. ) | ||
I have this....
Honeywell that has been in my house since the 40's. Its heat only (some of you may remember being introduced to Big Bertha). I love the look of it, I really don't think I would have another.
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Post# 975206 , Reply# 45 12/23/2017 at 18:16 (2,314 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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Emerson We have four Emerson Sensi thermostats at work. They work pretty nicely. Support two-stage cool and heat. The WiFi app allows access to auto heat/cool switching which the buttons on the 'stat itself doesn't. The only way to program a schedule is via the app. The app has a keylock function which makes the buttons on the base non-responsive as a security measure. A new feature added recently is geofencing, which triggers heating or cooling setback/recovery when the homeowner is +/- 3 miles distance from homebase (although it's useless for a business situation). I'm the only employee who has the app so nobody else has control of the systems. Dislikes: Neither the base unit nor the remote app has indication of 1st/2nd stage operation. They updated the WiFi app recently to force arrangement of the programmed days into alphabetic order instead of as entered, which throws me off kilter because I want them in order of F-Sa-Su-M-Tu-Th which is logical for the business week. It also now combines days that are the same. I need them all to remain separate because a couple/few given days may be the same this week but different next week and it's an ass-pain to re-separate them when necessary. The work-around is to program extra temp points (even if it doesn't involve a change) so all the days are different. Would be nice if fan on or auto could be programmed on the schedules.
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| Post# 975624 , Reply# 47 12/26/2017 at 18:52 (2,311 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada) | ||
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Gas must be really cheap in Minnesota! I pay $262/month (OK that's just Canadian dollars!) on a budget plan (and my water heaters, cooking appliances and dryers are all electric).
Apparently, gas is more expensive here in Quebec than elsewhere in the States or the in rest of Canada. But gas is still supposed to be cheaper for heating than our relatively cheap electricity (85% of households here use electricity for heating vs 3% for natural gas mainly because it's not widely distributed in Quebec). I don't have a very efficient boiler (82%) so there shouldn't be a big difference between gas and electricity in my case. How much gas do you use during a year? I used about 3500 cubic meters (or 123601 cu-ft) of gas this year (heating from October 15th to May 15th) to keep the temperature to an average of 65-68° (and I keep my garage at the minimum setting on the thermostat which is 50°). | ||
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Post# 975631 , Reply# 48 12/26/2017 at 20:46 (2,311 days old) by wayupnorth (On a lake between Bangor and Bar Harbor, Maine) |
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Where I am its only propane and pay thru the nose for it. 4 bucks a gallon to top off my tank which runs 2 gas heaters, used mostly in spring or fall and a gas stove, because I dont use enough gas to get a discount. No natural gas here. I have an oil boiler for heat and hot water with the original Honeywell thermostats set at 55 down and 65 up, never touched and 2 330 gallon oil tanks that last me a full year. Last year it took 570 gallons and I bet this heating season will go up.
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Post# 975682 , Reply# 49 12/27/2017 at 05:51 (2,311 days old) by foraloysius (Leeuwarden, Friesland, the Netherlands) |
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Here's a Dutch ad from 1976 with a semi-automatic Honeywell. It had two temperature options and with the round dial you chose the hours you wanted the lower temperature. IIRC there was a programmable version too.
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| Post# 975755 , Reply# 50 12/27/2017 at 13:55 (2,310 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada) | ||
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This Semi-Automatic Chronotherm is the equivalent of my older Semi-Automatic T-832A thermostats. It has a mechanical 12 hour setback timer for systems that didn't have the required extra wiring to power the electric clock version.
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| Post# 977693 , Reply# 51 1/9/2018 at 21:40 (2,297 days old) by Northwesty (Renton, WA) | ||
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I think Henry Dreyfuss was the designer of that Honeywell... | ||
| Post# 977696 , Reply# 52 1/9/2018 at 22:31 (2,297 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada) | ||
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Henry Dreyfuss designed a few things for Honeywell including the round thermostat.
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| Post# 977702 , Reply# 53 1/9/2018 at 23:18 (2,297 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada) | ||
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One of the thermostats I have at home is the early T86 model like the one pictured on the box in my previous post (for the current electronic round thermostats), I also have Tap-Lite switches that were also designed by Dreyfuss, it's shown on their boxes.
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Post# 977772 , Reply# 54 1/10/2018 at 16:14 (2,296 days old) by Supersuds (Knoxville, Tenn.) |
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