Thread Number: 74411  /  Tag: Modern Dishwashers
Whirlpool/Kitchenaid et.al. Active-vent
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Post# 982094   2/9/2018 at 21:54 (187 days old) by stevet (palm coast florida)        

The Active-Vent on both my Kenmore and Kitchenaid dishwashers no longer work as they should. That is, they are supposed to close while the dishwasher is washing to lower the sound level and retain the heat in the tub, It is then supposed to open at a pre-determined time after the drying begins to allow the moisture laden air to exit the tub area. Neither of them closes regardless of board resets or cycle selection.
When removed from the machines, both wax motors work properly and extend the actuator to close the vent. It would seem that the triac on the control board has failed and not sending 120v to the wax motor.

Is this a very common fault with these machines? Short of purchasing a new board and wary of a used one for the reason that the same triac would be gone too, can I simply wire it into the pump circuit?

The tech sheet says the actuator is powered thru the wash cycle and opens approx. 6 minutes after the dry segment begins. I am not concerned that the actuator will retract and open the vent within a shorter time after the pump stops at the end of the last rinse. I just want the noise level reduced to what it was when they were new machines. I would venture to guess that most people would not even notice the noise, but if you put your finger over the door vent, the machine is nearly silent.

Just for the record, the part number for the board is W100379770/WPW10084141.
Since this board covers so many different models. I may just go over to the local Habitat and pick up a donor machine if it uses the same board and get some extra parts in the deal. A whole machine can be had for less than what the board costs. new or used!





Post# 982108 , Reply# 1   2/10/2018 at 00:11 (187 days old) by speedqueen (Harrison Twp, Michigan)        

speedqueen's profile picture

If you are handy with electronics or at least have used a soldering iron, you might consider trying to de-solder and replace the triac itself. Look at the number on the triac and type it into the NTE cross reference and they will likely have an equivalent triac for a reasonable price.

 

Here is the link to NTE Electronics:

www.nteinc.com/...

 

EDIT:

 

While they don't offer a direct cross reference, if you can figure out the triac specifications, you could also check Mouser, Allied, or some other supplier, they almost always beat NTE's prices. Also if you use NTE's cross reference search, Allied Electronics(www.alliedelec.com/...) is an NTE distributor.





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