Thread Number: 74619  /  Tag: Vintage Dishwashers
Superba Selectra LCD
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Post# 984187   2/24/2018 at 22:35 by superba1 (CA)        

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Hello, I am trying to save my KitchenAid KUDA22st5. The dishwasher still works well but the LCD display is blank. I use to be able to get it to turn on by tapping on the display but not anymore. I would like to replace it but have only been able to find one on fleabay for $349.

Any other suggestions where I might locate this part? I guess it's considered a control board?


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Post# 984192 , Reply# 1   2/24/2018 at 22:55 by speedqueen (Harrison Twp, Michigan)        

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I don't think that it is a LCD display, I think that it is a VFD(Vacuum Florescent) display(Does it glow greenish blue?). If you don't want to pay eBay prices and I presume you have already called the local shops, you could see if you could find a electronics servicing shop, from what you are describing as that vibration used to get it to work, I would guess that the board has a cracked solder joint somewhere around the display area.

If you have a magnifying glass and know how to solder, you may be able to fix it yourself. At this point, what do you have to lose?

Post# 984194 , Reply# 2   2/24/2018 at 23:05 by superba1 (CA)        

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@speedqueen....yes the display is greenish-blue. I do know how to solder, but I think it's beyond repair. There is a cloudy discoloration on the right lower corner of the display that makes me think it's more than in need of solder. Hopefully I can find a replacement. Thanks :)

Post# 984195 , Reply# 3   2/24/2018 at 23:19 by funktionalart (Phoenix, AZ)        

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There is a member up here (Cory / Cadman?) who restores Amana Microwave ovens, some of which are Touchmatics with the VFD componentry. If he can't do it himself, I'll wager a bet he can put you in touch with a person who is familiar with reviving these...It's worth a shot. If any one here knows which member I'm referring to, please add his name to this thread!

Post# 984205 , Reply# 4   2/25/2018 at 01:44 by speedqueen (Harrison Twp, Michigan)        
Cadman is it,

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Cory Heisterkamp, check out his website, it lists his e-mail address

His e-mail address is

Also, if anyone has this part in stock, it would be John Lefever, @combo52, however, this is such a limited use, niche, item that I doubt even John would have it.

You said that there was discoloration on the display, could you get a clearer picture of that? The VFD could have gone to air and lost its vacuum. This type of display really is a flat vacuum tube. If air leaks into a VFD or any vacuum tube for that matter, a chemical compound put inside it called the "getter" which absorbs all remaining air molecules after most is pumped out will turn gray/white as it is overwhelmed with air.

If it has leaked air inside, it is completely hopeless even for an electrical engineer.

Here is a picture of a VFD that has leaked air, note the white circle at the top left corner of the display.

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Post# 984220 , Reply# 5   2/25/2018 at 06:53 by Chachp (Conway, AR)        
Don't give up hope just yet!

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About four years ago I had the same problem with the display on my oven.  Of course, I am assuming mine is also one of this vacuum types.  If not, then ignore the rest of this post :).  


Anyway, the display went blank.  The oven worked fine I just didn't know what temperature I was at.  Jenn-Air wanted $250 for the part plus labor to put it in.  I think they also called it a control board.  A new double oven like this goes for $3K plus these days and I really didn't want to replace the whole thing.  So while I was online looking for the part I found a post where someone had the same problem and fixed it with a capacitor from Radio Shack for about $2.  A friend of mine has done a lot of work soldering on Computer Boards so he said he'd take a stab at it and guess what?  Five minutes later it was working and it's been going strong ever since.  I splurged and bought an extra capacitor for $2 in case it happens again.  LOL.


I hope your fix is as simple.  Those are beautiful dishwashers.

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Post# 984270 , Reply# 6   2/25/2018 at 09:55 by bajaespuma (Connecticut)        
Ralph, you hit the nail on the head

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Is this something you could tell me how to do?


I have had EXACTLY the same experience with my Jenn-Air wall oven. I bought it in 2005, but about 5 years into it, the display started to fade out and has been gone for the last eight years. I love the oven and I still use it by listening for the beeps when I set temperature, self-clean and other functions. It dings when it comes to temperature and beeps when there's been a mistake in my setting it so it's pretty much 90%functional. I can't do more complicated things such as using the roast meat probe which is a small problem. I love the oven because it's fast, has two fan speeds, it's even and has been, except for the digital crap, a trooper. Also as an artisan bread baker it lets me set it to 550 F and can produce very respectable lean-dough breads. If this oven had had a rotisserie and reliable controls, it would have been the perfect oven.


I had the same experience with Jenn-Air; they wanted 250 for the part and it would have cost me another 195 to have someone in my area come out to make the repair and Jenn-Air wasn't going to guarantee the replacement part. My solution was to trawl eBay and Craigslist for the same model to scavenge parts, but it was interesting to see how many of the advertised ovens had the same problem: no digital display. No surprise that I have several vintage GE and Frigidaire ovens in my collections that have analog controls that still work.


F--- you today's American appliance manufacturers.



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Post# 984279 , Reply# 7   2/25/2018 at 11:16 by superba1 (CA)        

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Thank you everyone. Well, I think I may have ruined it for good....there was a small clear glass tube on the right bottom side of the display. I lightly touched it and it fell off! Now it doesn't work at all.

I don't want to get a new dishwasher as mine is still in excellent condition and the wash performance is amazing! This is depressing.....

Thanks again for your help!!!

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Post# 984295 , Reply# 8   2/25/2018 at 14:12 by stevet (palm coast florida)        
Kiss it goodbye!

You broke the part of the tube used to evacuate it and place it under a vacuum. Now it is at full atmospheric pressure. If the machine still works, keep using it until you locate a part to replace yours or perhaps a complete donor machine.

They sure are very few and far between, and most have given up the ghost years ago.
Great machines and probably a conversation piece in every kitchen they were installed in but if these and other brands were so great, they would still be making them. More advanced components have replaced the VFD on appliances.

Post# 984299 , Reply# 9   2/25/2018 at 15:02 by superba1 (CA)        

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Thanks SteveT.....I've searched high and low and can't find the part anywhere...not one.

There are quite a few control boards for the KUDA23 Part 9741929R available.
Do you know if it would work with my machine?

The correct part number for my machine is: 4171266

Post# 984302 , Reply# 10   2/25/2018 at 15:13 by stevet (palm coast florida)        
May be worth a a shot, BUT,,,

I would check with Combo52..John L. I am sure he has seen loads of these over the years and as someone else has suggested, he would be the man most likely to have a display board hanging around. How about finding a working 23 series? It will look nearly identical, but will have the WP PowerModule pump in it.

Post# 984309 , Reply# 11   2/25/2018 at 15:51 by superba1 (CA)        

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Thanks Stevet!

I sent John an email. Is the WP PowerModule pump a better design than what's in my machine? I had my pump motor replace in approximately 2011 and it's still running strong. The only thing I wish my DW had is a wash arm on the top of the machine that cleans off the tops of glasses...I know some of the older KA had them.

Post# 984311 , Reply# 12   2/25/2018 at 16:17 by Chachp (Conway, AR)        
Jenn air oven

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Ken. I will check when I get home to see if I saved the article. I think I did.

Post# 984377 , Reply# 13   2/25/2018 at 23:54 by tolivac (greenville nc)        

New strange,weird use for VFD tubes-Korg has introduced "NuTube" as an amplification device for guitar foot pedals and for "audiophool" hi-fi use-the tube is a VFD configured to act as a triode amplifier.The gain is low and the device is HIGHLY microphonic.It can run from battery power is its main advantage.When the tube is powered up the anode glows as like a VFD tube.It is made by Noritaki.The tube has two triode units in the flat case like a large DIP package.The filament voltage is like half volt and plate supply voltage is 9-80 VDC.Thought I would throw this in on VFD devices.It is the only new vacuum tube design today.12AX7,AU7,AT7 and so on have higher gain,less microphonic and less expensive.

Post# 984390 , Reply# 14   2/26/2018 at 03:53 by Chachp (Conway, AR)        
Fix for Jenn Air Display

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Here is the fix I found.  We literally did this in about 10 minutes and it's been fine ever since.  Let me know if this copy works for you.  If not I'll scan it and send as a .pdf.  I printed it out and never kept an electronic copy.


I hope this works for your oven.



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Post# 984396 , Reply# 15   2/26/2018 at 07:22 by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)        

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This ain't it is it?  I can't see all the markings on yours.

Post# 984409 , Reply# 16   2/26/2018 at 09:52 by Superba1 (CA)        

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@askolover, that ainít it but I appreciate your help! There is one on eBay that looks just like mine but the part number is different and the seller doesnít know if they are compatible. 😔

Post# 984419 , Reply# 17   2/26/2018 at 11:23 by bajaespuma (Connecticut)        
I'll try it!

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Thanks Ralph!

Post# 984477 , Reply# 18   2/26/2018 at 18:21 by stevet (palm coast florida)        
Not a match!

The board, and the instruction sheet clearly state that it is for a KDIS-21 which is not the same as the machine in question. It won't properly in the 22 Superba as the cycles are definitely different. Seems like a costly gamble.
I had a 21 Imperial Sselectra and like so many boards that Hobart built back then, they never fused the heavy loads like the motor. The machine I had found at the curb was in good condition but the use, I later found out had jammed the motor with broken glass and it burned out the tracing on the control board. She probably kept trying to get the machine to run once too many times.
They had the same fault on the control boards for the big machines with solid state controls. Many of us would repair the boards in the field by soldering in a splice across the burned areas and included a fuse holder and a 1 amp fuse.

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