Thread Number: 74898
/ Tag: Wringer Washers
Just got my first wringer washer, and it needs a little work so I need some help |
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Post# 987173 , Reply# 3   3/18/2018 at 19:07 (2,202 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)   |   | |
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While the urge is understandable, sometimes it does pay not to rush into doing too much with a vintage washer upon arrival.
All machinery that has been sat sitting for prolonged periods of time need and or should have a going over before restarting into service. First and foremost suggest you make a through search through the archives of this group; many have gone this route before you and generously posted step by step information (often including pictures) of their work. First thing you want to do is attempt to lift the agitator. If it does not shift easily (and it very well may not), then there is a good chance it is stuck to the shaft and must be freed. How "stuck" can be anything from required several good pulls, to needing major work. But make no mistake the agitator must come off at some point. Again search archives as to why..... Next thing is to check for leaks of transmission oil. Again all is contained in archives but you want to look at the left rear leg area; perhaps going underneath with a flashlight. Leaking transmission oil was a fairly common thing with these vintage Maytag wringer washers. The extent of and so forth is what matters. It could be something benign as washer being tipped forward (on front where decal and power shift knob are located... *NEVER DO THIS*), or pointing towards a more serious problem. This would be and normally is caused by water getting past tub seals and into the transmission. As time goes by the former displaces the oil which runs down bottom of tub and onto left leg.... No offence, but your Maytag looks a bit rough; as if she was rode hard and put away wet. Thus it wouldn't be a surprise if more than a few things need attention. This is normal. You can purchase via this website various owners and or repair manuals for Maytag wringers, or seek out elsewhere. You will need the latter most as it describes in full detail proper working of various parts, troubleshooting and or replacement if required. It is very important until fully familiar with this washer not to do too much too soon. Otherwise damage to parts/system can occur and then you'll have to hunt down replacements. If am being honest your machine is a prime candidate for stripping down and giving an overhaul. You want to see the state of oil in transmission/power unit, that is if there is any left at all. It could have turned into nasty muck which will want cleaning out. Happily Maytag over engineered these washers so they will run even with no or bad oil in transmission/power unit; but for how long is another matter. |
Post# 987203 , Reply# 5   3/19/2018 at 00:12 (2,202 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)   |   | |
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Post# 987207 , Reply# 6   3/19/2018 at 01:27 (2,202 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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Well if you didnt mean it that way, then I am sorry if I took it that way. Maybe you meant it as more of a joking poke but I could not tell because it is only in text. Sorry. |
Post# 987210 , Reply# 7   3/19/2018 at 01:49 (2,202 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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Well if you didnt mean it that way, then I am sorry if I took it that way. Maybe you meant it as more of a joking poke but I could not tell because it is only in text. Sorry. |
Post# 987211 , Reply# 8   3/19/2018 at 01:50 (2,202 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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Did not mean to post that twice. Sorry. |
Post# 987267 , Reply# 9   3/19/2018 at 13:44 (2,201 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Sound like your getting to know ur machine...Just from reading so far, sounds like you have a clog. The water should drain when hose is lowered (gravity) something could have gotten down the drain hole.
Taking the tub to pump hose is a good place to start, even if you are not replacing at this time, see if it's got something in it. With a light, check the drain hole. If nothing, continue down the line to pump and drain hose. The inside if your tub looks normal for its age. A little soapy water and some extra fine steel wool with do wonders, or a SOS pad, light preasure. But you have to get it to drain first so you can rinse it out good. A little BarKeepers Freind used on the rusty spots of the outside of the machine will help those spots. A little oil dripping down the rear left leg is kinda normal for a machine of this age, just as long as it doesn't become excessive. Also sounds like you need a new pump, or pump wheel assembly. Engaging the pump should not slow the motor. Something ain't right there HTH Keep us posted with your progress |
Post# 987268 , Reply# 10   3/19/2018 at 13:49 (2,201 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Post# 987269 , Reply# 11   3/19/2018 at 13:57 (2,201 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Machinery that has set for long periods of time need going over.
Think it would be good to do the lubracating as well
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Post# 987347 , Reply# 13   3/20/2018 at 00:57 (2,201 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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It took me a while, but I got the pump off! It is gunked up with a hard material and the pump's tube was almost completely blocked! Now to take it apart and clean it and get it to spin! Also, I am hoping the rubber wheel isnt too out of dhape to use! |
Post# 987348 , Reply# 14   3/20/2018 at 01:05 (2,201 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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I hope it is okay for these ends of the pump to look like this. |
Post# 987418 , Reply# 16   3/20/2018 at 14:15 (2,200 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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This is probably why the pump wont turn! And it wreeks! |
Post# 987495 , Reply# 17   3/21/2018 at 01:36 (2,200 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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That thing looks like it was brought up from the Titanic!
Unless your going to gravity drain, you need a new one. You could try soaking it in CLR or something.. nothing to loose. I think this is a good example of not draining the machine and the pump after use. Water was allowed to sit in the pump. At this point, if it were me, I'd get a bucket, put it under the drain hole in the tub. Find something to plug the hole (maybe a cork) and try filling the wash tun with hot water. Let's test and see if the tub will hold water? If it dose, you can pull the plug and drain into the bucket. If it won't hold water, then you have bigger problems. At that point you need to read the thread "Moving a Maytag E" That's Larry's thread, was long, but he rebuilt his from ground up, and shows how the gear oil is used in the power unit AKA transmission.. He took lots of useful pics along the way. Hopefully you won't have to go that far.. Still its one of the best for info on these. You said that it "jumps forward" ?Are you talking about the wringer head swinging around when trying to put something through? The agitator.. Maybe start with some BonAmi, then some mag wheel polish? Others have done this, just can't remember what they used. You might post a new thread just about the agitator HTH |
Post# 987504 , Reply# 18   3/21/2018 at 03:33 (2,200 days old) by RP2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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Post# 987621 , Reply# 21   3/22/2018 at 02:01 (2,199 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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There's only one thing I can think of to try.. Plummers goop around each bolt. This may stop the leak..as long as that's were the water is coming from?
My Maytag is about the same age as yours (1954) and on occasion it will leak about a spoonful of goopy oil through the breather hole. It's only once in a while, so l leave well enough alone. Not sure about you wringer.. Maybe some of the teeth (gears) are broken off the index slide..You probably need a new one, but you got bigger fish to fry with the leak. Let me ask you this.. Are you attached to the old girl yet? Or do you think you may be better off hunting down another? Don't want to discourage you, as they can be great projects, and can bring a sense of personal satisfaction. We here will appreciate your efforts and will cheer you on. But felt I had to throw that out to you. |
Post# 987624 , Reply# 23   3/22/2018 at 02:27 (2,199 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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Just checked and one of the teeth is broken off the index slide indeed. |
Post# 987626 , Reply# 24   3/22/2018 at 03:18 (2,199 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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Also this washer was close to down the street from my house which was cool, and it helped because I carried the washer strapped in to the trunk of my car, with a tarp over it for discretion. Haha! |
Post# 987672 , Reply# 25   3/22/2018 at 12:20 (2,198 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Post# 987749 , Reply# 28   3/23/2018 at 00:12 (2,198 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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this machine...and Phil is winding down, I'd get a hold of him sooner rather than later.
He use to carry all the gaskets.. much easier than tying to cut your own, he may have a pump, and the tub to pump hose is unique, and hard to make due without a correct replacement, so get one if he's got one. Maybe a spare belt, and the index slide, agitator ect If you've read Larry's thread, and your gong to go that route, your going to need to get or borrow a gulmite wrench to remove the tub bolts to seperate tub from the Power Unit. Wonder if that pump would work with only three impellers! or would it be off balance? Put it back in and let us know! LOL |
Post# 987777 , Reply# 30   3/23/2018 at 11:42 (2,197 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)   |   | |
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I have read here on the forum that Lehman carries parts for wringer washers, although it is not listed in their store inventory. I called the phone number and she said they did (at that time)
This is the Amish store Stan was referring to. www.lehmans.com/QUESTIONM... Also on Ebay there is a complete power unit ( gear box) Pricey at 170.00 with free shipping https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Maytag-... We restored a pink E2lp. And I was lucky to find (on ebay) a gearbox with plate as the one listed above. At that time Phil had the index listed. And I bought the gasket for the gear box to center plate. Large circular rubber gasket, And the rubber seal for the spline (tub seal) and small ring gasket that keeps the gryator from floating. We made the other gaskets with material from auto parts store. Removing the gulmite bolts is a PIA. we ended up cutting them off. And in removing the threaded part of the bolts, stripped the threaded holes in the top of the gear box. Yea a real bummer, Gulmite wrenches. Phil had one listed in june 2017 42.50 that did not sell. He may still have it. I fear the seal from spline (tub) to gearbox has failed if you have water going up to the weep hole...... Phil has that seal listed on ebay now. While searching for parts, another wringer was on craigs list. 50.00. Call him and I explained how to start it and and get the wringer to work. He was nice enough to see if it worked. It did and does. Now I have 2. ( I am so fortunate) With the knowledge you have now, a donor machine may be the ticket. But still need the special wrench to get the bolts off. Daves repair is not in business, but here is link to his page that shows you what the wrench is and size of bolts required. We got standard bolts with washers when we put pinkie back together. www.davesrepair.com/Parts/MYT-385... I know there are wiser than I here on the forum. That may give you better advice. Good luck. can't beat a wringer for cleaning and getting laundry done fast. Here's a pic of Her royal Highness. MISS PINKIE. I figure her total cost was around 250.00 with parts and purchase. Labor HA HA cant' put a price on that as many many many hours spent on this project. But I have a machine that will be running long after I'm gone.
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Post# 987778 , Reply# 31   3/23/2018 at 11:48 (2,197 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)   |   | |
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Post# 987841 , Reply# 33   3/24/2018 at 00:57 (2,197 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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Also does anyone know what this long rubber plug is for? |
Post# 987896 , Reply# 34   3/24/2018 at 11:57 (2,196 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)   |   | |
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This seal goes around the plate that bolt to the tub. I hope you can make out the grove in my picture,
Yes you will need it if you can get the bolts out. If your machine is agitating Your gear box is working you just have water leaking thru the seal. It looks like you have enough metal left on the pump hose attachments to use it. Finding parts is hard so don"t throw out something that might still work. Also J&b weld would thicken thin areas if you have any. And cures hard and can be filed or sanded Oh maybe that could be used to fix up your pump hose attachments. I have a lot of experience with J&B Looking at the pic you are seeing the spline straight down. If you can make it out there is a washer at the base held in by a metal clip under that is the tub seal This plate came in the pink washer it was so corroded and thin I used J&B the thicken up the tube the spline fits thru. I didnt use it on the rebuild because the gear box I got had one on it.
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Post# 987897 , Reply# 35   3/24/2018 at 12:03 (2,196 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)   |   | |
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Post# 987965 , Reply# 37   3/24/2018 at 18:44 (2,196 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)   |   | |
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2 part epoxy cold weld steel
www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8... Drain hose I found the right size at Lowes. It is clear. The tub to pump. I didn't have to replace. There"s an off chance that an auto parts store may have a hose radiator hose that would be able to work. That's a long shot. Gorrilla glue stops leaks on a water mattress pad I have. And I put it on a hole in the Tub to pump on my white wringer and I use whitey all the time with no leaks. Working on vintage items is a challenge. You have to be able to think outside the box. |
Post# 987993 , Reply# 39   3/25/2018 at 00:52 (2,196 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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make your own tub to pump hose, but there's no way it won't have a bit of a kink because of the turn it has to make.
I did make one and it worked, but after I got the real one I noticed that the tub drained faster. The real tub to pump hose is unusual..or unique to Maytag wringers. I made my own drain hose and it works fine. For me.. I'm glad I got the right tub to pump hose though. |
Post# 988042 , Reply# 41   3/25/2018 at 11:31 (2,195 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)   |   | |
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You can dremel a slot in the bolts. Remember these are brass bolts and softer than steel heads.
We tried it and the bolts were so tight all the screwdriver did was distort the head. So we used the grinder and made the round heads into a regular wrench shape. It is a pain to do. On the link I gave you to daves It tells you what size bolts to get. Once you get them out. Once you get past them everything else is much easier. And if you get all this figured out and you want to paint it. I would get automotive paint, or marine paint, Rattle can do not cure hard enough. At least what we used didn't. |
Post# 988198 , Reply# 43   3/26/2018 at 01:44 (2,195 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Try sending Larry a email and ask about the gulmite wrench. He might let you borrow it. Or post here and see if someone's got one laying around. It will make things much easier
I painted my Maytag with Rustolium oil based enamal (white can) I mixed in a little Penetrol I wet sanded first, washed down, then applied with hight density foam roller. I waited three days for it to fully cure, then wet sanded again with 800 grit, washed down, and did a second coat. Waited another three days, and wet sanded with 1500 grit. Then used a polishing compound. (I used white) Other have used appliance epoxy (with good results) I know I did it the hard way, but it's held up very well. I hate rattle cans. Also when your ready to make the tub look new.. You can fill the tub part way with warm soapy water, and use the 1500 grit on it, and the crown, then polish with mag wheel polish. I know I'm a little too far ahead, cuz you have bigger fish to fry, but since it seems that your going to save her..thought I'd share! LOL |
Post# 988422 , Reply# 45   3/27/2018 at 02:24 (2,194 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Penetrol is the oil version of Flothrol, I remember having to order it online because it isn't sold in CA.
Most appliance epoxy paints I've seen are in rattle cans.. unless there are brush types? I painted mine outside with the oil based enamel during the warms months, due to the fumes. The epoxy spray has a pretty nasty fume too. It took less than a quart of paint fir me to do mine.. There's not that much surface area. It takes some patience for drying times but.. Dont know if you've gone through Larry's thread, but he took everything apart, cleaned, repaired, replaced, repainted and re assembled. I remember there was some tricky spots he had to work out. I need to go re read it. As far as the gulmite wrench.. well you know what they say.. the right tool for the job! Someones got one they ain't using! LOL |
Post# 988424 , Reply# 46   3/27/2018 at 02:31 (2,194 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Almost forgot.. No I did not sand old paint off. I started with wet sanding it with 300 grit to get it smoothed out, but etched enough for my first coat to adhere.
Here it is |
Post# 988585 , Reply# 49   3/28/2018 at 13:25 (2,192 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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Also, how does that metal end with the screw on it fit onto the hose? And how does it come off? Will i have to cut some of the outside of the new hose so that it is thinner? |
Post# 988597 , Reply# 50   3/28/2018 at 14:44 (2,192 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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And also, what is the length of the tub bolts? |
Post# 988599 , Reply# 51   3/28/2018 at 15:14 (2,192 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)   |   | |
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Now this sounds crazy but... Are you familiar with impellers in boat motors? (we are waiting for a new one for our evinrude) I wonder if they make a large ones. That could be some how fitted.
They do the exact same thing. This is what they look like. www.westmarine.com/buy/si... What screw are you speaking of? If mine goes out I can gravity drain into the bathtub. But I think I'd try a marine impeller if that happened, Pinky is a gravity drain. flip the pump on and WOW what a racket. There's always one more thing to fix. |
Post# 988631 , Reply# 54   3/28/2018 at 19:34 (2,192 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)   |   | |
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I still have the bag my shaft seal came in. Some of the parts numbers have faded but I'm sure it is the part in the link on my bag I can read 6-0A57 then its faded out.
the seal looks Identical to it. Call them and see I got my bolts from Ace hardware or a true value store. good luck.. CLICK HERE TO GO TO tinkr's LINK |
Post# 988632 , Reply# 55   3/28/2018 at 19:43 (2,192 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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You are talking about this manufacturers part number yes? And not Maytag's - their's is A4298. And this is the same seal that is in my washer? That is crazy to me that it is still made, and fits with other automatic washers! Thank you so much! |
Post# 988633 , Reply# 56   3/28/2018 at 19:53 (2,192 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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Oh wow! They even say that it replaces part # 0A4298! I will be getting it! Thank you! |
Post# 988634 , Reply# 57   3/28/2018 at 19:57 (2,192 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)   |   | |
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Post# 988635 , Reply# 58   3/28/2018 at 20:08 (2,192 days old) by Stricklybojack (South Hams Devon UK)   |   | |
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Maytag Wringer Washer Parts - $10000 (2202 S. 6th Ave.) condition: new make / manufacturer: Maytag/Frigidaire/Whirlpool Approximately $20,000.00 in wringer washer parts, & other washer, dryer, & refrigeration parts. Complete wringer heads, bodies, agitators, center plates, gears, gaskets, grease, decals, tools, motors, belts, etc. Some are still in the original packaging. There are also Speed Queen wringer parts. contact name: Mark call or text ☎ (520) 624-4489 CLICK HERE TO GO TO Stricklybojack's LINK on Tucson Craigslist This post was last edited 03/28/2018 at 20:39 |
Post# 988636 , Reply# 59   3/28/2018 at 20:12 (2,192 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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OMG! I will be contacting him! |
Post# 988638 , Reply# 60   3/28/2018 at 20:24 (2,192 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)   |   | |
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That's what we are here for. You still have to find and index slide. Correct?
Ok found this on ebay it was not sold according to the original listing. So ask Phil if he still has it . You can contact him thru any of his auctions. I got one from him. Pinkies swung around so hard it almost knocked me down. CLICK HERE TO GO TO tinkr's LINK on eBay |
Post# 988643 , Reply# 61   3/28/2018 at 21:23 (2,192 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)   |   | |
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Post# 988648 , Reply# 63   3/28/2018 at 22:45 (2,192 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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And LOL! My wringer swings around after being on for a few seconds... So it lulls you into a sense of security and then goes straight for your fingers, and tries to eat them up! |
Post# 988703 , Reply# 64   3/29/2018 at 10:43 (2,192 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)   |   | |
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He was posting in the phoenix craigslist. I thought he had sold out. Wow great news for you.
well what more might you need? Trouble shooting. Top to bottom. Wringer. Safety bar works? lever locks it in place? Wringer rollers are not cracked or flattened? And roll smoothly? Wringer stays in place-no Wringer goes forward and reverse? Agitator comes off spline? Agitator does not float up? If it floats it needs a small rubber seal goes on spline. I would get one if you can just incase. Tub has holes? Agitator moves when gear case is engaged? Gear box is working. yea Gears do not bind up. Guess not.. It ran for an hour. Leaks water from weep hole? yes spline seal. Leaks under machine? Yes Hoses needed. Motor works? yes. Does it need brushes? Cord is good? Are your wheels good? no flat spots? Roll well? There may be more but thats the basics, that I can think of. These are the general wear and tear parts. That I can think of Gulimite wench? Are there any appliance junk yards around you? These are Mom and Pop shops that have been in the business for years. For repair and second hand appliances also new for sale. It's a long shot. I would think the machine would have to go to them and they take out the bolts. For a price remove the wringer to transport it. Put it in neutral and lift up. That dudes heavy. |
Post# 988709 , Reply# 65   3/29/2018 at 12:13 (2,191 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)   |   | |
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Post# 988785 , Reply# 67   3/29/2018 at 22:57 (2,191 days old) by wayupnorth (On a lake between Bangor and Bar Harbor, Maine)   |   | |
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I have a round Maytag of the same vintage but gear case is locked up. In otherwise decent shape and everything worked before trying to move it in my shed. If you, or anyone wants it here to fix or for parts its yours. Come and get it because when I do finally move from here, it goes to the scrapper as I have no interest in fixing it.
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Post# 988786 , Reply# 68   3/29/2018 at 23:34 (2,191 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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Wayupnorth, I wish I could lol. But I have no room and you are far away lol. Maybe someone else though. A free machine is a good deal! |
Post# 988789 , Reply# 69   3/30/2018 at 00:42 (2,191 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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I also plan ob getting a second agitator from him that is the turquoise one, just for fun to use whichever one I am in the mood for! |
Post# 988791 , Reply# 70   3/30/2018 at 01:26 (2,191 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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seperate the rollers?
Are you holding the tension bar down and turning the tension lever counterclockwise? (while still holding the bar down) Then back, and lift up. Once the rollers are about two inches apart, then turn tension back the normal position. This should cause the rollers to rest apart. You should feel some resistance turning. If the wringer locks into position, then it sounds like the index slide is O.K What us jumping at ur fingers? The rollers, or is the wringer not locking into position. Wish I could see it in action! Make a vidieo! LOL |
Post# 988792 , Reply# 71   3/30/2018 at 01:34 (2,191 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Post# 988813 , Reply# 72   3/30/2018 at 08:49 (2,191 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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I can separate the rollers and lock them in place like normal, but hitting the safety release bar alone does not release tension very much at all. And the wringer assembly is what jumps and swings around. And I thought about contacting him. I may give that a try! |
Post# 988822 , Reply# 74   3/30/2018 at 11:07 (2,190 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)   |   | |
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Post# 988831 , Reply# 75   3/30/2018 at 12:22 (2,190 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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Oh! I was under the impression that it was supposed to jump up when the bar was hit! I will try it again! |
Post# 988837 , Reply# 77   3/30/2018 at 13:31 (2,190 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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Also, how do i upload a video on here? |
Post# 988853 , Reply# 78   3/30/2018 at 16:52 (2,190 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)   |   | |
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most post a video on utube then link it in the URL link to share.
I think the bottom roller is gear driven, Top rolls freely. Yes the center lever locks the wringer head back together. So I hit the safety bar and then I wiggle and pull up, the top half or the wringer to separate it a little more. To lock back together turn the top handle till you feel a bump or hear a snap (hard to explain) it has locked in place. |
Post# 988864 , Reply# 79   3/30/2018 at 17:42 (2,190 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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Ah true. And It does not separate with any amount of wiggling. It just moves apart barely. Certanly not enough to free a trapped hand. The handle works normally though. |
Post# 988956 , Reply# 80   3/31/2018 at 13:30 (2,189 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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Look what I just found! Isnt the gulmite bolt and wrench 33 points? Now I just have to figure out if it is the same size! There are many others for sale like it, probably even cheaper! If this works, that would be a breakthrough!
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Post# 989005 , Reply# 81   3/31/2018 at 19:21 (2,189 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)   |   | |
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Post# 989011 , Reply# 82   3/31/2018 at 19:54 (2,189 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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Do you know if it is actually 33 points? I read somewhere that it was but im not sure. |
Post# 989026 , Reply# 83   3/31/2018 at 22:05 (2,189 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)   |   | |
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Post# 989030 , Reply# 84   3/31/2018 at 22:21 (2,189 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)   |   | |
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This tool’s used to remove and reinstall the 6 special Gulmite (33-point) bolts
So there ya go. It may work. If it does wow. If the bolts are encrusted Which mine were CLR to the rescue.with a wire brush to gently remove the calcium gunk build up between the points. Or slots whatever they are called. GOOD JOB ON THE RESEARCH. How did you get to foreign car tools? |
Post# 989045 , Reply# 87   4/1/2018 at 01:14 (2,189 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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Also thank you tinkr, for taking the time to count the teeth on those bolts and to look that up for me! I thought about counting them but was researching as much as I could to avoid that! Haha |
Post# 989148 , Reply# 88   4/2/2018 at 01:03 (2,188 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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Ok I measured and determined the heads are 1/2 inch, and the teeth are too small to matter in the measurement. |
Post# 989201 , Reply# 89   4/2/2018 at 13:32 (2,187 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)   |   | |
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I suppose it is worth a shot. Or take a wrench and cut two sides of the bolt heads to accept the wrench.
And get the bolts Dave says to use. Thats what we wound up doing. Also to remove the wringer the shifting lever needs to be in neutral, wringer will just swing around freely. then it will come out. Only take apart what you know you can replace on the wringer, in my service guide even the repair persons are instructed to replace the entire head. Rather than an entire rebuild. Since you orderd the service manual you will be better informed when you read it. |
Post# 989204 , Reply# 90   4/2/2018 at 14:10 (2,187 days old) by Eronie (Flushing Michigan)   |   | |
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Amazon has it . Search 33 point socket Its A Car Tool. |
Post# 989210 , Reply# 92   4/2/2018 at 14:51 (2,187 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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That is the tool I am talking about Eronie. Have you used it for gulmite bolts??? Does it work? |
Post# 989252 , Reply# 93   4/3/2018 at 00:33 (2,187 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Can't tell if u need a index slide or not. Dose the wringer try to swing around when you go to put a wet garmet through it?
If it dose, then you need a index slide. Since its a commonly broken part...It will be good for you to have a spare. Hope you do a vidieo.. It would be good for us to see what's up |
Post# 989253 , Reply# 94   4/3/2018 at 00:47 (2,187 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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Yes it does do that. It does it sometimes without anything in it. One of the index slide's teeth is also broken off. I am ordering a new one of those. I have a list of parts coming now. I do have a video of it. I just have to get around to posting it. |
Post# 989255 , Reply# 95   4/3/2018 at 01:06 (2,187 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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Okay here is the video of the machine being demonstrated. It shows the wringer doing its naughty buisness. CLICK HERE TO GO TO mstone's LINK |
Post# 989309 , Reply# 96   4/3/2018 at 13:07 (2,186 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Post# 989345 , Reply# 97   4/3/2018 at 19:13 (2,186 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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Oh yes! I will have to take a new video, but sure! |
Post# 989347 , Reply# 99   4/3/2018 at 19:19 (2,186 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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Better pic of the inside.
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Post# 989388 , Reply# 100   4/4/2018 at 02:35 (2,186 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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I heard back from a seller of the 33 point socket, and they said it is .78 inches on the inner diameter. The gulmite bolts heads are 1/2 inch. So I think they are a no go, unless there is a half inch sized one somewhere. . |
Post# 989508 , Reply# 101   4/5/2018 at 00:57 (2,185 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Post# 989663 , Reply# 104   4/6/2018 at 14:24 (2,183 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)   |   | |
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Ok The plate off of pinky was super corroded. But I was surprised to see how smoothly moving the bearing was,and no metal shaving from wear. I did not have water in the pu. But you have had water in your bearing.
When you get it apart you can make that judgement. How smooth does it move are there rusted out roller balls in the bearing. Is it loose on the shaft. Any signs of getting hot. And some how you have to grease that bearing. The service manual says if the bearing is bad.. Replace the plate. You have to evaluate its condition. I dont know what Mark gets for a plate. So it's going to be what you see. Testing it after you replace the seal... see If it leaks. If it leaks thru, You may destroy the seal getting it out . And then mo money for another seal. Wow another conundrum. |
Post# 989683 , Reply# 106   4/6/2018 at 19:36 (2,183 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Post# 989689 , Reply# 107   4/6/2018 at 19:55 (2,183 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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Hah yes! I should have the wrench in my hands roughly around next thursday! |
Post# 990137 , Reply# 109   4/10/2018 at 02:10 (2,180 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Post# 990138 , Reply# 110   4/10/2018 at 02:25 (2,180 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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No prob! I feel a little bit compelled to help the wringer washer community stay alive, so that maybe people 50 years from now could still use these machines and even repair them if they have to, including me, as I would like to use this machine as my washer for my entire life. |
Post# 990139 , Reply# 111   4/10/2018 at 02:27 (2,180 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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The wringer washer world is sort of like the vinyl record and analog photography world in that it is vintage and unique and interesting. It just is not a very big movement lol. |
Post# 990140 , Reply# 112   4/10/2018 at 02:31 (2,180 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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And I do have a couple pictures so far! Of the current oil leaks my machine has! |
Post# 990259 , Reply# 113   4/11/2018 at 01:35 (2,179 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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That doesn't good!
In a way it almost look like someone poured oil down the hole that the wringer post fits into and it ran out the leg. But I can also see where it's seeping out the breather hole, then onto the cross bar. If u wipe that all clean.. How long dose it take for that much to leak out again? |
Post# 990310 , Reply# 115   4/11/2018 at 12:28 (2,178 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)   |   | |
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Geoff said..."Hi everyone ... well ... there you have it. I believe it's a combination of things. My guess is that when Larry got this machine, it hadn't been used for quite some time. I remember seeing the agitator with that big old hole on the top; surely, water got down there and was over the shaft/center. If those seals in the center shaft weren't good, water went into the transmission and into the right angle drive; hence the oil/water mixture coming out of the breather hole on the drive. Just like it was supposed to do.
Also, oil dripping down the legs means that where the right angle drive connects to the wringer post, the gasket is shot AND probably transmission oil/water traveled through the right angle drive and into the bottom of the wringer post." End quote. That's a lot of runny grease. Neither one of mine were that bad. Man, you are going to have to get the wringer head off the machine and separated. As I said ammonia is cheap ( I get mine at the 99 cent only store)and cuts grease but it is a gas that is very caustic and if you have lung issues (as I do) out side or by an open window with a fan. A lot of rags. I started out with news paper. Rags next then paper towels. Invest in gloves of some kind. That grease is a bugger to get off nails and hands,clothes floors. (yes I had a mess) It's a great thing to be a diyer but we don't have to look like it. Most of the world doesn't get it. Remember you asked what that long thing was that comes with the large rubber plate seal? It is used to seal up the hole where the little screw is on the center plate. Geoff says " Phil does sell the rubber used to plug that screw hole; I learned it the hard way in reusing a screw without the lead washer; bad mistake. I caught mine, however, with oil shooting out everywhere; before I put the tub back on. Live and learn. Don't forget to tap the center plate securely in that area after placing the plug in; that center plate needs to sit flush to the power unit. That's where that little screw is very important; it also pulled the center plate down to the power unit making a good seal and without it, you will have to make sure that plate is all the way down to the power unit. "end quote. I hope you have larrys thread saved. I think all your questions can be answered there. |
Post# 990374 , Reply# 117   4/11/2018 at 23:49 (2,178 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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A small update: The wrench should be arriving tomorrow, and the parts are on their way as of tuesday! I should be able to start the teardown tomorrow night! Or if not, then in the next couple days! |
Post# 990434 , Reply# 118   4/12/2018 at 13:30 (2,177 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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Thanks to Larry, I got the wrench!
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Post# 990436 , Reply# 119   4/12/2018 at 14:00 (2,177 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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The tub is out! I will post the "before" pics later.
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Post# 990498 , Reply# 121   4/13/2018 at 02:52 (2,177 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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I believe the oil on the wringer post leg is from that crossbar that connects to it that catches all of the breather hole's drippings. That crossbar is filled with oil! Though I am sure my other gaskets arent in great shape. |
Post# 990555 , Reply# 122   4/13/2018 at 10:22 (2,177 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)   |   | |
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I'm so glad the bolts came out.
Now the lovely job of cleaning everything, and paint. You have quite a weekend ahead of you. I have another suggestion. Adjust the height of the machine before you get it reassembled. I'm sure your going to clean the wheels, Tipping the machine backwards cause whitey to start dripping. just a few drops. But I panicked anyway. Nothing has come of it and she stopped dripping. But I will not tip one over again. Have fun and keep us posted. |
Post# 990609 , Reply# 124   4/13/2018 at 17:36 (2,176 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)   |   | |
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You want the wringer to be at a safe comfortable height to use it. Pinkies to tall for me (all 4ft 10in.of me)
Whitey we lowered, wringer is about chest height. Just right. I feel like I'm lifting fabric over my head when I use pinky, she's about 3-4 inches taller. So I use whitey. The top of tub is just about hip height. Blankets are heavy to wrangle out of the tub. So are wet sheets. Also there are horror stories of females getting their upper girly parts caught in the wringer. I have hair down to my rear end so I have to watch out for that too. Using a wringer can be a real work out. I usually do 6 loads when she gets rolled out. I split laundry between a portable 1.6 for daily wear and the wringer for towles, blankets sheets. Items I want washed in hot hot water. And I rinse in a large tote, with vinager and cool water wring back onto the top of the washer lid. I also have a laundry spin drier. . To remove the extra water from the wrung items. As they are to wet to put in the dryer. Using this method I can easily do all 6 loads in 1.5 hrs. When you are doing laundry with a wringer that is all you do is laundry. Wash. wring, rinse, wring. Average wash time per load is approx. 5 min. For normaly soiled clothes. Then rinse and wring You will also want to get a floating lint catcher sold on amazon or ebay. But that's down the road. Have fun. |
Post# 990622 , Reply# 127   4/13/2018 at 19:27 (2,176 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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Sorry did not mean to post twice. The site on my phone is being really wonky right now. |
Post# 990623 , Reply# 128   4/13/2018 at 19:49 (2,176 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)   |   | |
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On e-bay shipped from US.
China is cheaper And I got a mega spinner from Laundry alternitive. The designer is a member here. It is made in Brazil. I works really great. Super simple no timer close the 2 lids and it starts open lids and it stops. It says up to 20 lbs wet. I don't push it so I put in maybe 10 to 12 lbs. You can hang clothes and they are dry inside in about 2 hrs. CLICK HERE TO GO TO tinkr's LINK on eBay |
Post# 990641 , Reply# 130   4/13/2018 at 21:54 (2,176 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)   |   | |
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The mega is a durable plastic outside. And inside. So no rusting. And yes the older laundry alt. spinners were POS.
But this one seems quite durable. And I've used it since Christmas with no problems. 20lbs wet is what is listed as the max weight. I know of one other member here that has one and reports were all good. And if you have an issue you call the number and get to talk to the engineer not a coustomer service nit wit. I have not found a vintage one and looked for a very long time. There are vintage Twin tub machines. However they are to large for my area. And parts well really hard to find. There was one ( spinner) listed on shoppers spree. I think this week. Not vintage. and as I recall metal. |
Post# 990649 , Reply# 131   4/13/2018 at 22:14 (2,176 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)   |   | |
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Post# 990652 , Reply# 132   4/13/2018 at 22:36 (2,176 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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Hmm thank you! I will look more inte the L.A. ones. Did they imptove on them? And that is cool you can talk to the actual engineer! I do still hope to find an old one. And yeah I don't want a twin tub lol. Too much stuff I wont use. |
Post# 990666 , Reply# 134   4/14/2018 at 01:35 (2,176 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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Ok I got it off the bottom bolt, so that just leaves it being stuck to the RAD. |
Post# 990667 , Reply# 135   4/14/2018 at 01:55 (2,176 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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I got it! And water poured out of just the connection between the PU and the RAD! |
Post# 990668 , Reply# 136   4/14/2018 at 01:59 (2,176 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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Post# 990676 , Reply# 137   4/14/2018 at 03:15 (2,176 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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The 2 gulmite bolts on the center plate to the PU are very stuck. I'll try som WD-40 tomorrow. |
Post# 990751 , Reply# 138   4/14/2018 at 20:52 (2,175 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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I cannot get them out. Tried hammering, PB blaster, more hammering, i cant grab them with vice grips, I dont think I can reach them to cut a slot in them, I dont have a torch to heat them up, and the teeth are stripped. I want a screw extractor set. Maybe that will work. |
Post# 990752 , Reply# 139   4/14/2018 at 20:59 (2,175 days old) by Stricklybojack (South Hams Devon UK)   |   | |
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Post# 990766 , Reply# 141   4/15/2018 at 00:44 (2,175 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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Post# 990775 , Reply# 142   4/15/2018 at 02:08 (2,175 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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I lifted out the clutch pinion gear and cleaned it very well. It has a small bit of damage on it, but I think it will be alright for a very long time still.
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Post# 990807 , Reply# 143   4/15/2018 at 10:39 (2,175 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)   |   | |
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Post# 990847 , Reply# 144   4/15/2018 at 15:28 (2,174 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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Thank you! And yes! I am excited! And those bolts are destroyed so I will have to get new ones anyway lol. And nice! Have a great time wiring your boat! |
Post# 990861 , Reply# 145   4/15/2018 at 17:27 (2,174 days old) by neptunebob (Pittsburgh, PA)   |   | |
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It seems like a lot work for a wringer washing machine that fell out of favor because using them seems like slavery. Are you sure you want to do all of this?
To anyone who knows: It seems that a wringer is a very complex machine, maybe more so than an automatic. Were they more difficult and more expensive to manufacture than the automatic washers were? What I am reading here, there are almost as many parts as a BD Whirlpool/Kenmore. |
Post# 990897 , Reply# 147   4/15/2018 at 21:11 (2,174 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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Once I fix this machine, I will likely have a washer that lasts my entire lifetime. And I am only 22. |
Post# 990898 , Reply# 148   4/15/2018 at 21:39 (2,174 days old) by ea56 (Cotati, Calif.)   |   | |
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“And I think using it would be fun. I have never even seen one in action until I got this machine and it will be an interesting, fun, and meditative experience”.
Good for You! You will really love using this Maytag Wringer. When I was your age I had one and if I had the proper setup for a wringer I would have one again too, another Maytag! To me it is theraputic, and you description of meditative is apt. You get into the rhythm of the process and to me it was fun. Plus, the laundry was amazingly clean and a whole weeks wash done in about an hour. I commend you on you tenacity in getting this piece of history up and running and restored. Yo will not regret you efforts. Eddie |
Post# 990911 , Reply# 149   4/16/2018 at 00:37 (2,174 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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Plus... I am already pretty far into this project. It is too late to wonder if it is worth it hah. But it is to me. |
Post# 990914 , Reply# 151   4/16/2018 at 00:54 (2,174 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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I look at these machines like I look at records and Polaroid cameras. It is not nearly as big of a thing, but it is old and cool and should be kept around because of it. |
Post# 990977 , Reply# 153   4/16/2018 at 12:48 (2,173 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)   |   | |
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I noticed movement after you pushed in the shifting rod. I wondered why it did that.
I certainly am no expert but it may be the damage you have on the gears. I noticed (for lack of better word) a grinding when you pushed in the shaft. Mine does that sometimes. And I'd bet that is what damaged the rack gear. Ok JB weld I dont think it would be strong enough. The pitting on the shaft may be from metal stuck in one place and wore pits in it. Best bet A phone call to Tuscon. Pick his brain. See if he has gears alone he will sell. We didnt dissamble my broken gear box. I know teeth were damged. It would jam and not move. Your machine was working. How far do you want to go with it? It is sad to say, but I have the idea, that women that were tired of their wringer washers MAY have sabotaged them. Believe me I know a few that have ruined perfectaly good items to get what they want. |
Post# 991032 , Reply# 155   4/16/2018 at 22:43 (2,173 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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Marks says to replace, replace, replace! He also says those parts are pretty cheap. |
Post# 991036 , Reply# 156   4/17/2018 at 00:56 (2,173 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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That's best since you've come this far.
We old timers will enjoy this rebuild thread. So thank you for sharing it with us. Wish I could be there to watch and help. The day will come (after a little learning curve) that you will fire up a brand new looking Maytag. Youl enjoy showing it with someone older that use to have one when they were younger. (I have enjoyed seeing the smile it brought to a old lady.. that had one like mine that she used to wash all her kids diapers in. It brought her back to a certain time that she was happy in) Youl probably have this machine your whole life.. You may get to the point that you no longer use it (years from now) but youl feel good about what you accomplished, and to know that you can use it whenever your in the mood. Keep up the good work! |
Post# 991038 , Reply# 157   4/17/2018 at 00:57 (2,173 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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Well I tried the best way I could think to remove the worm wheel, which was to use a ratchet with a spade bit, and I stood ontop of the transmission to hold it down, and the stud for the wheel would not tutn. It is stuck! Anyone got amy ideas to get it out?
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Post# 991093 , Reply# 159   4/17/2018 at 11:25 (2,172 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)   |   | |
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Post# 991194 , Reply# 162   4/18/2018 at 00:56 (2,172 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Post# 991245 , Reply# 164   4/18/2018 at 12:35 (2,171 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)   |   | |
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In every project. I was thinking heat also. I would think the gears are hardnend steel. Will a Dremel blade
cut that? And in the past my experience , in the instructons it sounds so easy. In actual life it's anything but. Yea on the parts. Concentrate on something else and let the other soak. At least you know your making progress. |
Post# 991253 , Reply# 166   4/18/2018 at 14:16 (2,171 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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I put enough torque on that thing, that it twisted off the butt end of the drill bit in the socket. |
Post# 991292 , Reply# 168   4/18/2018 at 18:11 (2,171 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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The dremel saw cut with ease but was not deep enough. |
Post# 991478 , Reply# 169   4/19/2018 at 23:33 (2,170 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Post# 991483 , Reply# 171   4/20/2018 at 01:10 (2,170 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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I bashed it with a hammer A LOT! |
Post# 991562 , Reply# 172   4/20/2018 at 15:48 (2,169 days old) by Stricklybojack (South Hams Devon UK)   |   | |
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Post# 991586 , Reply# 174   4/20/2018 at 21:33 (2,169 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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*Worm gear, not worm wheel. |
Post# 991591 , Reply# 175   4/20/2018 at 23:06 (2,169 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)   |   | |
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Post# 991600 , Reply# 177   4/21/2018 at 01:21 (2,169 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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UMM...
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Post# 991602 , Reply# 178   4/21/2018 at 01:42 (2,169 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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Ok i got it all out, just have to get the parts separated now. Instructions "tap down on one end of the retainer to loosen it." But it does not do anything. Real life, hit the other end of the worm shaft with a hammer to poo it out. |
Post# 991606 , Reply# 179   4/21/2018 at 02:55 (2,169 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Post# 991637 , Reply# 182   4/21/2018 at 12:41 (2,168 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)   |   | |
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The plot thickens....
You may be able to JB weld that piece. The bolt goes into the body of the gear box. So not much strain on that ear. I believe it is cast metal. And is not hardned. Like the gears. I'd try it, over 300.00 for a gear box. That's steep. That is the power of supply and demand. You could find a tested working machine for that. I know that is something you don't want to think about. We feel your frustration. |
Post# 991719 , Reply# 184   4/21/2018 at 23:07 (2,168 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)   |   | |
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are hardend.
Finding parts with 0 miles on them is a rarity. There is an appliance repair in Glendale. They have an avacado wringer. Price 500.00. I didn't ask if it was new. I suppose that;s a deal if it is new Considering what parts cost new. glad your not discouraged. That machine owes you many years of laundry. |
Post# 991728 , Reply# 186   4/22/2018 at 01:00 (2,168 days old) by Stricklybojack (South Hams Devon UK)   |   | |
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I thought this was a bit pricey until I saw here what parts for these cost... $550 asking for a very low mileage unit. CLICK HERE TO GO TO Stricklybojack's LINK on Phoenix Craigslist |
Post# 991729 , Reply# 187   4/22/2018 at 01:06 (2,168 days old) by Stricklybojack (South Hams Devon UK)   |   | |
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Here's another, restored, $425. When you get yours going it will be so satisfying to use knowing you saved it from oblivion. CLICK HERE TO GO TO Stricklybojack's LINK on Phoenix Craigslist |
Post# 991730 , Reply# 188   4/22/2018 at 01:38 (2,168 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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Oh wow! Those are in very nice shape! And I agree, it will be! I prefer the square one to the round one myself, and one with a logo sticker to one with those metal M A Y T A G letters. But still those are extremely nice! |
Post# 992245 , Reply# 190   4/26/2018 at 19:40 (2,163 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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Have not posted in a while. Been working on cleaning the PU, and took some breaks hah. Here are the official before pictures of the machine! Notice how rusty the power unit housing is... |
Post# 992246 , Reply# 191   4/26/2018 at 19:43 (2,163 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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And that is all really cool! Sounds like something that would be worth looking into! And cool that they are your family! Does the man actually make new parts for the E2L series? |
Post# 992559 , Reply# 192   4/29/2018 at 23:01 (2,160 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Post# 992574 , Reply# 194   4/30/2018 at 00:57 (2,160 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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I have not had a chance to work on it the past few days...* |
Post# 994407 , Reply# 196   5/16/2018 at 21:52 (2,143 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Post# 994869 , Reply# 197   5/21/2018 at 23:56 (2,138 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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I havent gotten much done on it. Work has been very busy and so has the rest of my free time. I work on it when I can though. I basically just got all the rust cleaned off the parts of the power unit. Yet still new rust keeps forming. I am about to spray it with WD-40 specialist. |
Post# 997209 , Reply# 198   6/15/2018 at 02:01 (2,114 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Post# 997254 , Reply# 199   6/15/2018 at 14:45 (2,113 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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No. Im sorry to report that I havent worked on it at all since my last message pretty much. I have been so busy with work and things lately. I will be getting to it soon though. |
Post# 998501 , Reply# 200   6/27/2018 at 02:08 (2,102 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Post# 999669 , Reply# 202   7/8/2018 at 00:02 (2,091 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Post# 1000695 , Reply# 203   7/18/2018 at 20:15 (2,080 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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Why thank you Stan! Does anyone here know how to pop off the agitator shaft from the center plate so I can clean the plate and replace the bearings, or should I just get a whole new center plate? I am pretty sure mine are bad. |
Post# 1000701 , Reply# 204   7/18/2018 at 20:34 (2,080 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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Oh i actually found it in the repair manual and might try it. |
Post# 1000714 , Reply# 205   7/18/2018 at 23:12 (2,080 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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I tried getting it off, and of course like everything else in the power unit that is supposed to come apart, it is stuck hah. I may end up needing a new center plate. There is so much play in the shaft. |
Post# 1001109 , Reply# 209   7/23/2018 at 01:40 (2,076 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Post# 1001586 , Reply# 212   7/27/2018 at 08:04 (2,072 days old) by dermacie (my forever home (Glenshaw, PA))   |   | |
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Concerning lead paint:
I also sanded my 1952 Maytag in my garage which is built into my home, I never thought about lead and I did not wear a mask. Shame on me for not even thinking about it. I am also an adult and I have no children living with me and was under the impression that Lead is most harmful to younger children. I have noticed that most people on here have sanded there machines outside and that is where I would continue and I would wear a mask. Once painted the lead will be encapsulated and not harmful. |
Post# 1001690 , Reply# 213   7/28/2018 at 01:48 (2,071 days old) by tolivac (greenville nc)   |   | |
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I thought lead was in house paints-not appliance paints. |
Post# 1001692 , Reply# 215   7/28/2018 at 01:54 (2,071 days old) by ea56 (Cotati, Calif.)   |   | |
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Post# 1001790 , Reply# 216   7/29/2018 at 03:20 (2,070 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Get a bucket of soapy water and wipe off as much as possible. Dig a hole somewhere to pour the buckets into, and bury it. Try to avoid sweeping or using ur vacuum until you've got as much removed with soap and water. Keeping it damp will reduce dust.
If u need to sand more on the machine, wet sand with a bucket of soapy water to reduce dust. |
Post# 1002579 , Reply# 219   8/5/2018 at 02:21 (2,063 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Post# 1002792 , Reply# 221   8/7/2018 at 02:43 (2,061 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Post# 1005575 , Reply# 223   8/31/2018 at 02:22 (2,037 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Post# 1006849 , Reply# 225   9/11/2018 at 22:48 (2,025 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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The paint is now FINALLY all off! Of the chassis anyway. Now it is sanding time!
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Post# 1007002 , Reply# 226   9/13/2018 at 00:11 (2,024 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Post# 1007973 , Reply# 227   9/20/2018 at 17:35 (2,016 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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Hah! Awesome! Bubbye rusty lead paint! And I am now finishing up sanding off all the rust. Haven't worked on it since my last post but am doing some tonight. Then Ill either start painting this, or sand off all the legs, then paint. |
Post# 1008518 , Reply# 229   9/25/2018 at 07:44 (2,012 days old) by dermacie (my forever home (Glenshaw, PA))   |   | |
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Post# 1008664 , Reply# 231   9/26/2018 at 11:12 (2,010 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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One side at a time, it is coming along. |
Post# 1009055 , Reply# 232   9/29/2018 at 23:37 (2,007 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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Alright! All sides have now been de-rusted and sanded and cleaned! It is now time for priming and painting!!! Whoo! |
Post# 1009059 , Reply# 233   9/30/2018 at 00:33 (2,007 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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Well I ran out of primer during the second coat, so here is my stopping point for tonight! (Ignore those black splotches. That is my camera lens on my phone.)
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Post# 1009682 , Reply# 236   10/4/2018 at 23:05 (2,002 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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Here is the last time it will be seen white. This is the second type of paint layer; the white enamel. The first pic is with all the white paint done. I ran out, but will just do more coats of thefinal paint. Now on to turquoise! |
Post# 1009685 , Reply# 237   10/5/2018 at 00:25 (2,002 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)   |   | |
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First coat of turquoise is done! Here it is next to the original agitator to see the color combo. |
Post# 1009697 , Reply# 238   10/5/2018 at 07:22 (2,002 days old) by dermacie (my forever home (Glenshaw, PA))   |   | |
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Post# 1009825 , Reply# 239   10/6/2018 at 02:42 (2,001 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Post# 1012232 , Reply# 241   10/27/2018 at 00:24 (1,980 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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