Thread Number: 75741  /  Tag: Refrigerators
Desperate in Houston! Need 58 Frigidaire Evaporator Motor Replacement or Rebuild
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Post# 995724   5/30/2018 at 18:28 by jdwilson (Houston)        

I'm in a jam. I bought this amazing FP-142-58 Frigidaire with the seller absolutely sure it was working. Well, the freezer blower motor is open on one winding. It is a sealed bearing unit made by Electric Motors and Specialties. It is a special mount with 4 pads held vertically and it was only used in this and the 1959 model. It mounts from the rear of the unit.

Nobody wants to rewind it because it isn't a big industrial motor! I've heard that someone came up with a sub with mods but have no idea what they used. Plus I'd really like to fix this one if I can. I can get the bad winding about 70% but don't feel confident that it will hold up.

The original part number was F6581978 superseded in 1959 by 6595223. Markings on back are
SP-L4T4
115V
CW
16 Watt
0.19 Amp

Any suggestions will be most appreciated!!!!!.. Joe




This post was last edited 05/30/2018 at 18:47



Post# 995749 , Reply# 1   5/30/2018 at 21:47 by cfz2882 (Belle Fourche,SD)        

by the ratings given,seems this is a shaded pole"fart fan"type motor-does the fan blade/blower impeller mount against a flat hub via two small screws like a ~1962 FD or or 1960s-mid-80s WP evap fan with the Howard Industries motor ?

Post# 995750 , Reply# 2   5/30/2018 at 21:53 by jdwilson (Houston)        

It is a sealed bearing 4 pole shaded. It has 4 rubber side mounts and mount s through back of cabinet. I posted some pics.


Post# 995751 , Reply# 3   5/30/2018 at 21:54 by speedqueen (Harrison Twp, Michigan)        

speedqueen's profile picture
Can we get a picture? If it is just a shaded pole motor, you could order from just about any industrial supplier such as Grainger.

Post# 995752 , Reply# 4   5/30/2018 at 21:55 by jdwilson (Houston)        



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Post# 995753 , Reply# 5   5/30/2018 at 21:57 by jdwilson (Houston)        

I thought i had posted some!

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Post# 995754 , Reply# 6   5/30/2018 at 21:58 by jdwilson (Houston)        



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Post# 995755 , Reply# 7   5/30/2018 at 21:59 by jdwilson (Houston)        



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Post# 995756 , Reply# 8   5/30/2018 at 22:01 by speedqueen (Harrison Twp, Michigan)        
An idea

speedqueen's profile picture
If you cannot find someone to re-wind it, you could bend two of those tabs down and just mount a conventional motor with rubber grommets on either side of the tab when you tighten it down to dampen vibration.

There are a few people around here that might have parts so hold out a week or so and see.


Post# 995758 , Reply# 9   5/30/2018 at 22:10 by cfz2882 (Belle Fourche,SD)        

basicly just a standard unit bearing condenser/evap fan motor-except for the four threaded holes with the rubber mounts-might have to carefully drill and tap a replacement motor for those mounts..."16 watt"rating with .19A is odd:usually with these motors the "watts"is output power,but in this case,with that low amp rating,appears to be input consumption...A "2 watt"output fan motor might pull ~.19a.Evaporator fan versions of these motors might have special low temp oil.Pop machines use this style of motor for the evaporator

Post# 995759 , Reply# 10   5/30/2018 at 22:16 by cfz2882 (Belle Fourche,SD)        

Ok,now I see the standard(1/4"?)shaft :) reply#6 is a good idea.

Post# 995770 , Reply# 11   5/31/2018 at 00:11 by jdwilson (Houston)        

sorry things were so disjointed! I originally posted all the pics including the fridge on my PC but the pics didn't go through I guess. Then I was down in Galveston tonight responding on my phone and that was really a mess! Anyway, i think all the important pics have come trough except the refrigerator itself! So here it is for inspiration. Again, I intended all these to be attached to the original post. And thanks for all the suggestions so for! oh! Also.... Mine is stamped CW. But is that CWLE or CW from the shaft end? It seems the reference might have changed in the past 60 years!

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Post# 995801 , Reply# 12   5/31/2018 at 09:01 by sfh074 (atlanta)        
Perhaps?

sfh074's profile picture
Something like this? Shaft diameter is 1/8" and can be both ccw or cw rotation. And gives you some good mounting options.

What is your shaft diameter on the old motor?


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Post# 995806 , Reply# 13   5/31/2018 at 09:50 by jdwilson (Houston)        

Mine has a .25" shaft but something like that might work but I'm not sure how I would insulate it. It would mount outside the cabinet. The front of the old motor acted as the seal to the membrane isolating the interior. I guess I could somehow seal the membrane to the collar on this. But it is the closest I've seen to a solution! Thank You!!!


Post# 995815 , Reply# 14   5/31/2018 at 14:11 by jdwilson (Houston)        

I ordered one.... I'll let y'all know how it works out. cross fingers! I'm going to do my best not to destroy the original mounting setup so I can re-use it if I find the correct motor in the future or can have mine rebuilt. The tolerances are tight on the squirrel cage fan so not much room for error.


Post# 995816 , Reply# 15   5/31/2018 at 14:37 by sfh074 (atlanta)        
Difference in shaft size ....

sfh074's profile picture
Can be solved by making a bushing. Ace hardware sells brass tubing found in the craft section next to the balsa wood. They have an 1/8" ID x 1/4" OD brass tube. (You'll use this in between the fan and the new motor shaft)

Cut a piece about 1/2" in length. In the middle on one side, drill a hole large enough for the fan set screw to pass thru.

Once you have figured out how you will mount this new motor, and get it mounted, place the fan on the shaft and mark where the set screw will contact the shaft. With a small file make a flat spot on the shaft. Now take the piece of tubing with the hole in it and place over the shaft lining up the hole with the flat spot on the shaft. Then install the fan aligning its set screw thru the tubing hole and locking onto the shaft flat spot.

As for the insulation issue with the membrane and sealing the interior. Seems like you could use aluminium foil tape to make it air tight?


Post# 995855 , Reply# 16   5/31/2018 at 23:24 by jdwilson (Houston)        

It just dawned one me that heat might be an issue on this motor since it won't be ventilated by the blower. The fan is isolated to the back of the fridge. In an hour of trial the case has gotten very very warm to the touch. Like HOT. Otherwise, so far it seems to be working. I will get a proper bushing tomorrow though.


Post# 995950 , Reply# 17   6/1/2018 at 20:45 by jdwilson (Houston)        

So far so good! I made a bushing out of some rubber tubing. I couldn't find the brass stuff with a 1/16 wall. It seems to be working so far. The fan isn't true to start with so it is a bit dicey. The trial run was -5F in Freezer and 37F in refrigerator on setting 1. However, it wouldn't cycle off. I messed with the thermostat and may have gotten it to open up and did witness it cycling once on it's own. I am not sure if the defrost cycle happened while I was away but it looks like it did. Everything dry and good air flow and timer is definitely running. The blower setup looks like hell from the back but I won't be giving tours back there. Now if it will just cycle without having to replace the thermostat I'll be very happy!

Post# 995951 , Reply# 18   6/1/2018 at 21:09 by sfh074 (atlanta)        

sfh074's profile picture
what motor did you use?

Post# 995970 , Reply# 19   6/2/2018 at 07:34 by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        
The Worlds FIRST True Fan Forced Frost Freezer-Refrigerator

combo52's profile picture

Congratulations Joe on getting this very rare and interesting refrigerator, This was the first true FF refrigerator the world ever saw for the home it uses the type of forced air cooling that ALL FF and FF upright freezers the world over use today.

 

This FF cooling system has and evaporator separated from the food storage area and incorporates a fan to pull air over the evaporator and circulate it over and around all the food packages being stored, periodically the fan and compressor shuts off and the evaporator is heated [ usually with resistance electric heaters, but is can also be a reverse cycle heating using the compressor ] and the ice melts away and drains out of the evaporator area usually to a pan under the ref where the waste heat from the compressor and refrigeration process evaporates it into the ambient room air.

 

The FP-142-58 was also built on the 50th anniversary of the Frigidaire companies building electric refrigerators. FP stands for Frost-Proof the name FD used for their true FF models, 142 stands for an overall capacity of 14 CF and the 2 means two-door, and 58 is the model year.

 

This first FF ref had the evaporator fan motor mounted outside the refrigerated area this was unusual but the engineers were worried about the heat that the fan motor would put into the freezer area. As a result the fan was mounted through the rear wall of the freezer section right behind the hot condenser so the motors tended to run pretty hot and fail more quickly, FD changed this design after only two model years.

 

Joe a friend of mine also talked to the seller of this ref but he was too late, but we are glad it went to a good home. I have a used one of these unusual fan motors laying around my shop somewhere that may be good, let me know if you can't find a satisfactory replacement.

 

John L.


Post# 996044 , Reply# 20   6/3/2018 at 01:04 by jdwilson (Houston)        

Thanks John! I used an SM999 Universal mount but it isn't ideal. For one thing, I'm pretty sure it develops some frost behind the aluminum blower wheel. There is a blower heater but i suspect with the mods it isn't effective even though I have it insulated pretty well. I have it running but, of course, keep running into little things. The thermostat wasn't disengaging. And I've gotten it opening and closing but heaven knows it is is anywhere close to spec at this point. Trial and error.

If you do find that motor I would be very happy to have it! I would really like to put this back to "stock". I didn't make any modifications that would make it difficult to re-install the correct one. If you have any information on the best way to set calibration on an F-114 Thermostat (YR?) please let me know. I expected it to have an F-3 but it does not.

Also... when the compressor starts it has a light rattle inside. Like if there were loose washers or something. It seems to stop after it runs for a while. It always returns after it has been off for a bit. Is this a sign of impending doom?

As for your friend, I guess this one has had a following! Several people I have spoken to either knew of it or had wanted to purchase it. Somehow it wound up with me and I'm taking that as a good thing. One step at a time.....

I'll attach some pics of the blower modification using the universal SM999. Unfortunately that rear panel was already split. It is intact other than that. The blower had been serviced before.


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Post# 996115 , Reply# 21   6/3/2018 at 20:12 by Spacedogb (Lafayette, LA)        

jdwilson....I see you're in Houston, there is an electric motor shop locally here in Louisiana that may be able to rewind it. I brought a hot tub circulation motor to them last year, and they were able to rebuild for $150. Not sure if you would be interested in the drive.

Post# 996116 , Reply# 22   6/3/2018 at 20:33 by jdwilson (Houston)        

Well I could mail it to them! Is it a place that I could email or text pictures to to see if they would do it? It isn't that far really and I have not been to NOLA since before Katrina so am way over due! I could just drop it off on the way lol. I have it working on the universal for now so not in a huge rush. But please send me their info! And thank you!!!

Post# 996120 , Reply# 23   6/3/2018 at 21:20 by Spacedogb (Lafayette, LA)        

jdwilson....I see you're in Houston, there is an electric motor shop locally here in Louisiana that may be able to rewind it. I brought a hot tub circulation motor to them last year, and they were able to rebuild for $150. Not sure if you would be interested in the drive.




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