Thread Number: 8080
Maytag DE 606
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Post# 154685   9/15/2006 at 10:36 (6,432 days old) by 68imperial ()        

Hi I am working on a maytag DE606 dryer. The problem with it is that it is automatic dry and will not shut off on any cycle. Would any one know what could be wrong. Thanks Tom Q




Post# 154833 , Reply# 1   9/16/2006 at 02:23 (6,431 days old) by wcd63 ()        
DE606 reply

Hello Imperial
first make sure that the dryer is properly grounded. that will cause the dryer to not shut off. When I lived in Warminister PA my 606 did that. The second thing to check is in the back of the dryer blower houseing there is a small carbon brush that could be bad or worn out and not making proper contact and needs to be replaced. I will look in my Maytag service book and see if I can find more for you. But the members of this club are very very good at dignosing things and I am sure that you will have the right answer quickley.
WCD63


Post# 154860 , Reply# 2   9/16/2006 at 09:44 (6,431 days old) by 68imperial ()        
De 606

Hi WCD63 Thank you any help that you can give me will be very appreciated. I was also told that the electronic dry control may be bad. The part number is 302472 and maytag no longer makes the part. Nobody in my area seems to have it in stock i wish i could find a replacment. I will post pictures of the dryer soon.

Post# 155108 , Reply# 3   9/17/2006 at 13:45 (6,430 days old) by 68imperial ()        
DE606 pictures

Here are some pictures of the 606 set i just aquired them last week

Post# 155109 , Reply# 4   9/17/2006 at 13:46 (6,430 days old) by 68imperial ()        
de 606

picture of the timer

Post# 155110 , Reply# 5   9/17/2006 at 13:47 (6,430 days old) by 68imperial ()        
de606

picture of washer

Post# 155111 , Reply# 6   9/17/2006 at 13:48 (6,430 days old) by 68imperial ()        
de606

washer inside

Post# 155112 , Reply# 7   9/17/2006 at 13:50 (6,430 days old) by appnut (TX)        

appnut's profile picture
Tom, that is one beautiful set and in one of my favorite maytag colors. The washer inside looks like it was never overloaded---causing the porcelain at the bottom part of the tub to be rubbed off. You're a lucky man!!!

Post# 155114 , Reply# 8   9/17/2006 at 14:19 (6,430 days old) by 68imperial ()        
DE 606

Hi Appnut Thank you for the complement. This set was owned by a 90 year old lady that used them very sparingly. By any chance would you know what could be the problem with the dryer? It wont turn off automaticly on any cycle.

Post# 155117 , Reply# 9   9/17/2006 at 14:32 (6,430 days old) by appnut (TX)        

appnut's profile picture
I honestly don't havea clue, other than a senser issue. Hopefully one of the resident maytag experts will chime in--such as gansky, lightedcontrols, mayken4now (that I can think of off the top of my head). Do you nkow if it worked correctly in the original installation?

Post# 155180 , Reply# 10   9/17/2006 at 18:40 (6,430 days old) by 68imperial ()        
De606

I am not sure because i picked thise up from the ladys son. He said that she was using them up untill she passed away. They sat unused for a year or two in his heated basement. That is all i know. I wish i had more info.

Post# 155690 , Reply# 11   9/20/2006 at 02:53 (6,427 days old) by wcd63 ()        
DE606 Reply

Hi Imperial
Those are just beautiful machines.Copper and the avicodo are my favorite colors. the 606's that you have are from about 1966 to about1967 pre perminit press. check the baffles if they are wire wound they are prior to November 1968. if the baffles have two steel strips on them they are after Nov of 1968.
First check the wires to make sure their are no breaks in the wires.Second check the wires that attach to the baffles on the out side of the dryer drum.you will see them with the back off the dryer.make sure that those wires are good and tight and not loose. If the wires are bad on the baffles they can be replaced with new ones but with the wire ones you have to use the special 3-1464 bar baffel with resistor. if after Nov 1968 use 3-3045 bar baffel without resistor.
Check for proper polairty and grounging Step 2 remove wires marked 14 nad 15 from controal switch and push or set damp dry checkbetween wires 14 and 15 on controal switch, no contunity, replace controal switch. Step 3 Electronic control. Discharge the capacitor. set dial to damp dry. If solenoid does not release switch button in about 4 to 10 seconds give or take or if switch checks out as above replace electronic control. this is what my book is telling me. theirs more but I have to do it a bit at a time so as not go confuse you. You may also give me a call at 760 251 4649 but be aware of the time difference. we are 3 houres time difference from you. hope this is of help to you and not too confusing.ask for WCD63 and I will know who you are.

WCD63


Post# 155727 , Reply# 12   9/20/2006 at 08:38 (6,427 days old) by seeitrun2006 (Commerce, GA)        
The washer

The agitator this washer has in it I don't think is the one that came with it. The washer per the control panel, would have had a black agitator with a green lint filter. Plus the water level buttons on the control panel have only Small, Medium and Large settings. But the agitator and tub is the same ones used in the "Big Tub" machines that came out in the late 1960's or early 1970's. The agitator also has extra fins between the main fins.

Just curious!


Post# 155750 , Reply# 13   9/20/2006 at 11:30 (6,427 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        

swestoyz's profile picture
Hey David,

Tom is one very lucky guy! The Series 00 machines (66-67) were the first of the '06 series, starting in January 1966. All the early 06 machines had the three level water selector - Small, Med, Large, regardless of tub size. Also, the 806 machines had a Wash 'n Wear cycle which was replaced with Perm press starting on later machines (late 67? on). My favorite aspect of these very early 06 machines is the early Powerfin Agitator. It has the 4 normal flexible fins, then the lower set of 4 posted fins. These agitators also have a plastic baffle (2 piece) on the bottom of the agitator just like the previous Bakelite agitators. The 1969 Helical Repair manual has a great outline one the differences between the two piece (early), and one piece (late) agitators.

This agitator also uses a fine mesh for the lint filter, whereas on later machines the filter is a molded one piece unit.

Tom - Congrats on your beauties!

Ben


Post# 155754 , Reply# 14   9/20/2006 at 12:18 (6,427 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!)        

gansky1's profile picture
Exactly, Ben - there are some obscure differences in these early "Washpower" Maytags than the all-too-familiar 70's machines. Interestingly, the A206 & A106 models of the 66-67 lineup had the earlier bakelite agitators running at 54 strokes per min. as in the earlier 60's machines. The flexible fins on the Power-Fin agitator allowed the SPM to increase to 63.

Post# 155756 , Reply# 15   9/20/2006 at 12:27 (6,427 days old) by seeitrun2006 (Commerce, GA)        
WOW!

Ben,

Thanks so much for the Maytag history lesson this morning!
I would never ever have known that!

Tom-My goodness you have found a diamond!

Congrats!


Post# 155763 , Reply# 16   9/20/2006 at 13:13 (6,427 days old) by 68imperial ()        
DE606

Hi Everyone thank you for the compliments.These
machines really were a diamond in the rough. Thank you WCD63 I'll check thoes connections and let you know what i have found.thanks again Tom


Post# 155857 , Reply# 17   9/20/2006 at 19:54 (6,426 days old) by 68imperial ()        
DE606

Hi WCD63 I tested the control switch and there is continuity between 14 and 15. The wires on the baffles are strong and tight. All polarity is correct. Im ready for the next step. :)

Post# 155862 , Reply# 18   9/20/2006 at 20:45 (6,426 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY)        

toggleswitch's profile picture
Isn't there a capacitor that is supposed to store up a charge? It eventually discharges such that it trips a relay shutting off the machine.

Perhaps the relay is not being energized or is not reacting to being energized.

How's the capacitor?
How's the relay?


Post# 156075 , Reply# 19   9/21/2006 at 14:17 (6,426 days old) by 68imperial ()        
DE606

HI Toggleswitch I replaced the relay/solenoid and checked the capacitor and it checks good.
the solenoid is nos that the parts supplier had lying around. Im not sure waht to check next. Tom


Post# 156095 , Reply# 20   9/21/2006 at 16:02 (6,426 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!)        

gansky1's profile picture
Inside the back panel, around the fan housing, you'll see a metal ring around the housing. There is a carbon brush that runs along this metal ring that is wired into the baffles. Check to make sure all wires around the drum are intact and check for continutity.

If everything else checks out, it sounds like you'll need to replace the electronic control. Hopefully your parts dealer has one around, they have been NLA for some time now. If you're handy with electronics repair, you might be able to diagnose and replace any components on the circuit board that may have gone bad.


Post# 156137 , Reply# 21   9/21/2006 at 19:20 (6,425 days old) by wcd63 ()        
RE DE606

Hi Imperial
sorry for not getting back sooner but this cable CO stikns and kept loosing the material that I sent to you! Talk about pissed off. Three times. gave up until now.
ok I think that we got to the electronic controal? next will be BAFFEL Circut
remove yellow No 12 wire from the controal switch; discharge the capacitor set dial at Reg
(a)dial should release in 9 to 12 minutes if not check out baffle circut.
CONTROAL SWITCH
Remove greenNO14 wire from control switch push in dial on the REG setting
(a) if the solenoid releases switch in 9 to 12 munutes replace switch if not go to step B
(b)if dial is not released in time replace elcetronic control.
step 4
Reattach NO 14 wire. if the dial is relased after replacing electornic controal in step B replace controal switch.
ok I see that two members left correct info for you , Mr Gansky and Mr Toggle check their info out as well. they are absolutely correct in what they are telling you.
I have one more section to give to you.
DRYER FAILS TO SHUT OFF ON ANY SETTING;
shout off solenoid not being energized
(1) check shut off solenoid and linkage.
Note that their should have to be at least 50-55ohms of resistance
Ckeck Baffel Circut
a Remove yellow No 12 wire from controal switch
b press dial( Damp Dry) shut off selenoid should activate in 7 to 17 seconds with dryer properly grounded
c if the dryed shuts off properly with the yelloe NO 12 wire removed, check for a short through the slip ring and the baffles providing a path to the groung without wet clothes
d if the dryed doen not shut off properly with the yellow wire removed we go to step 3
e To determine if the slip ring or baffles have a short reconnect yellow NO 12 wire at the switch. remove carbon brush and spring from the holder. be careful its under tension if the dryer will shut off properly the difflicalitys in the baffels, if the dryer does not shut off properly the slip ring is at fault.
this should be intersting to see what you come up with and hope that you find it. My7 bet would be on the carbon brush or the slip ring is touching sonething or the felt has wron out allowing it touch metal under it so carefully check the felt. these are truely great dryers. a full load of wet clothes should take only about 45 to 50 minutes to dry. for the vent I like to use the rigid pipe because it does not catch the lint that these machines generate in the exhaust and the wide mouthed hood you get maximum air flow. If you have the older vent right hood thats ok but make sure that you clean it frequiently as the flappers in them have a tendincy to collect lint behind the flapper and slowley festrict air flow comming out of the dryer and cause it to over heat and take a very long time to dry. a rented home I had in PA had that problem and once I replaced the vent system I was back in business.
glad that I could be of help to you and I enjoyed doing it. It keeps me out of trouble.

WCD63


Post# 156586 , Reply# 22   9/23/2006 at 18:52 (6,424 days old) by 68imperial ()        
DE606

Hi Everyone I just got done checking the baffles took them out checked the copper wires for continutiy. They were cranky but did have continuity. I replaced the carbon brush and spring. I also replaced the control switch and chime actuator. Unfortunatly still no luck. It must be the electronic dry control. I will check and replace the componants later when i have some more free time. I want to thanks everyone for all their help. I apprecieated it alot thanks Tom :)

Post# 156605 , Reply# 23   9/23/2006 at 21:12 (6,423 days old) by 68imperial ()        
DE606 SUCCESS !!!!!

HI I just had to check one more time .I replaced the capacitor for the electronic dry control, and ran a new ground from the ground screw on the back of the dryer cabinet. I must have overlooked it and success at last. It works and is fixed :) :)

Post# 156624 , Reply# 24   9/23/2006 at 23:36 (6,423 days old) by appnut (TX)        

appnut's profile picture
Congratulations!!! Proud of ya!!!


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