Thread Number: 9028
Why do I get myself into these things?
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Post# 168804   11/20/2006 at 19:03 (6,360 days old) by pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI)        

pulsator's profile picture
Ok, so, I was tipped by someone on the site of a Kenmore BD washer at the Salvation Army in town. I went out there, looked at it, it seemed to look ok..... I guess I'm not a very good judge of that though.... lol! Anyway, after getting it home and getting it in the house (DAMN that was hard!!!!) I got it in place and decided to see what it could do. I wasn't really expecting it to work perfectly..... But, GEEZE!! Ok, I put some hot water with some Tide dissolved in it, and I let it sit for a few minutes. Then I plugged it in and filled it up. I love the way Kenmores fill!!! Anyway, I decided to set it on low, which was smart, cuz it shifted into a VERY LOUD agitation. From what I heard it needs some grease and perhpas a new belt. But the loudness of it startled me, so I shut it off. Then I decided I had better drain it and take care of it's little issues before doin much with it. I turned it to drain, pushed the knob in and all I got was a buzzing sound coming from the control panel that got louder and LOUDER. So, I shut it off yet again.... And here it sits... HELP!!!!!!!!!




Post# 168805 , Reply# 1   11/20/2006 at 19:04 (6,360 days old) by pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI)        

pulsator's profile picture
Control panel...

Post# 168806 , Reply# 2   11/20/2006 at 19:04 (6,360 days old) by pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI)        

pulsator's profile picture
And the tub.... I've got some work to do.....

Post# 168807 , Reply# 3   11/20/2006 at 19:05 (6,360 days old) by westyslantfront ()        

Hi Jamie. Do you have pictures of the inside? Congratulations and good luck with your new find.

Ross


Post# 168811 , Reply# 4   11/20/2006 at 19:12 (6,360 days old) by dadoes (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
That's similar to a machine one of my aunts had. Except hers had a RotoSwirl, 3-speed control instead of rotary water level on the right side, and water level was a lever across from the cold temp selector.

Post# 168816 , Reply# 5   11/20/2006 at 19:25 (6,360 days old) by sharples ()        
Congrats

I love your new washer...i wish the salvation army near me had appliances. I'm Jealous.

Post# 168825 , Reply# 6   11/20/2006 at 19:52 (6,360 days old) by spats ()        

Very nice!

Post# 168829 , Reply# 7   11/20/2006 at 20:07 (6,360 days old) by pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI)        

pulsator's profile picture
Thanks for the kind comments everyone! I have a quick update though, it seems there is a rather large leak, the motor now smells as though it's overheating/burning dust. Could it be seized bearings? The motor will as least make a better attempt now... I can hearing it start, but then nothin moves....

Post# 168830 , Reply# 8   11/20/2006 at 20:10 (6,360 days old) by westytoploader ()        

Hi Jamie, first of all, congratulations and welcome to the world of Kenmo'! What a machine to start with as well! They're really quite fun machines, but only when they work ;-)

So I'm assuming that when you put it on drain, the motor didn't come on at all? Instead of turning it off to drain it, just skip the timer forward, since it shifts directly into drain without pausing. Try putting it back on agitation and advancing the timer manually to drain and see what happens. If it still refuses to do anything, you'll have to bail out the water in the tub. Fun stuff...I had to do that when the pump on the 24" Kenmo' decided to quit.

How does the mechanism look? Is it really filthy or in decent shape? You probably need to put some lithium grease the cam bars at the point where they go through the agitation and spin forks, and where the wig-wag comes into contact with them.

If the motor comes on and it refuses to drain, the pump bearings could be seized up and you'll need to replace the pump. Since yours has a self-cleaning filter, I'm going to assume it's a 2-port. Relatively easy to find on eBay.

Keep us posted on what happens.

--Austin


Post# 168831 , Reply# 9   11/20/2006 at 20:12 (6,360 days old) by peteski50 (New York)        
Why do I get myself into these things?

peteski50's profile picture
Well Jamie,
This was a good thing you got yourself into.
Best Of Luck
Peter


Post# 168836 , Reply# 10   11/20/2006 at 20:58 (6,360 days old) by pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI)        

pulsator's profile picture
Well, I found the wigwag and the spin/agitattion forks, How do the forks moves? do the slide horizontally? Or vertically?

Post# 168838 , Reply# 11   11/20/2006 at 21:11 (6,360 days old) by westytoploader ()        

Cam bars/wig-wag move horizontally; forks move vertically.

Post# 168839 , Reply# 12   11/20/2006 at 21:24 (6,360 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        

swestoyz's profile picture
Hey Jamie,

Cool looking Kenmore! Don't get bummed out about the little issues right now - this machine looks like it still is in great shape - beauty is the hardest part to fix ;-)

Are you able to move the belt any? Are the plungers/forks loose within the solenoids of the wig wag? Is the drive pulley free? You'll need to reach a bit to get to the pump to check if it is seized. Even though you have a full basket of water, you should still be able to tell if the pulleys or belt is seized or free. I'd say scoop the water out, and start inspecting things below. Just guessing, but if something has seized or binding, it would make sense that the motor growled at you, from the sounds of it. Keep us posted.

Ben


Post# 168841 , Reply# 13   11/20/2006 at 21:29 (6,360 days old) by hoover1060 ()        

Beautiful Kenmore jamie!
you'll have it right in no time!


Post# 168842 , Reply# 14   11/20/2006 at 21:34 (6,360 days old) by pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI)        

pulsator's profile picture
Ok, the wigwag is stuck and I can't get it to move... Any thoughts?

Post# 168846 , Reply# 15   11/20/2006 at 21:43 (6,360 days old) by coldspot66 (Plymouth, Mass)        

Jamie,

The pump might be seized....There is a bolt on the top left side of the baseplate..loosen it with a 9/16 wrench. That will loosen the belt so you can roll it off the transmission pulley. Does the tranny pulley turn now? Now check the pump pulley to see if it turms easily. If not, that may be your problem. Hope this helps!!!


Post# 168848 , Reply# 16   11/20/2006 at 21:43 (6,360 days old) by pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI)        

pulsator's profile picture
Whoa, ok, maybe not, I just looked at the under side of the belt... DAMN!!! there appears to be a LOT of the little rubber chunks missing that stick out and grab the pulleys. The belt moves pretty freely, it turns all the pulleys as far as I can see. when i turn the belt so that there is a little group of these rubber chunks that stick out, the motor and the wigwag move a bit til it runs out of the chunks, then it just stops and starts growling at me again... I'm guessing this has a major roll in why the machine is acting up? How hard is it to install a new belt? How do I do it?

Post# 168849 , Reply# 17   11/20/2006 at 21:43 (6,360 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        

swestoyz's profile picture
Hey Jamie, the actual wig wag assembly will not move unless you can spin the drive pulley (the wig wag is connected to a gear that is driven by a rod from the drive pulley). When you are looking at the machine from the back, the drive pulley is the large pulley on the right hand side.

Ben


Post# 168850 , Reply# 18   11/20/2006 at 21:45 (6,360 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        

swestoyz's profile picture
Woah, I posted that last message late. Sounds like a new belt is in order.

Ben


Post# 168851 , Reply# 19   11/20/2006 at 21:47 (6,360 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        

swestoyz's profile picture
Here is a pretty good site that explains how to replace the belt on the machine. I found it very useful the first time I dug into a late 70's Whirlpool.

Ben



CLICK HERE TO GO TO swestoyz's LINK


Post# 168852 , Reply# 20   11/20/2006 at 21:47 (6,360 days old) by coldspot66 (Plymouth, Mass)        

Definately needs a new belt, and you have to make sure there are no chunks of belt material on any of the pulleys...prolly just on the motor pulley. Changing the belt is a little involved, since one belt goes around all the pulleys. The directions are on the back of the bag of the new belt.(I think)

Post# 168853 , Reply# 21   11/20/2006 at 21:56 (6,360 days old) by unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

unimatic1140's profile picture
Hi Jamie, wow that is a beautiful Kenmore, congratulations!!! Yes it does sound like a new belt is needed. Part # 95405.

Post# 168855 , Reply# 22   11/20/2006 at 22:09 (6,360 days old) by appnut (TX)        

appnut's profile picture
Jamie, a hot lookin' Kenmore!!

Post# 168906 , Reply# 23   11/21/2006 at 06:41 (6,359 days old) by gizmo (Victoria, Australia)        

Hi Jamie

I think you have got a bargain. You just need a new belt and cross your fingers it should be fine. It is about the hardest machine around to change a belt so you are about to develop some new skills. Lucky You!!!

Chris.


Post# 168910 , Reply# 24   11/21/2006 at 07:18 (6,359 days old) by tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        

This is why it is always a good idea to start a new to you washer in spin. Bill & Bob, two Maytag service & sales guys who hired John looooooong ago and taught him a lot, once delivered a brand new Maytag, installed it and started it filling in the wash portion of the timer. Well, it filled and than did nothing. Getting sweaty, they advanced the timer to damp dry and pulled. Again, nothing. The motor was dead and it was not yet the day of the removable front panel. At least the drain hose came out at the bottom of the machine . From that experience they learned to see if the motor and pump worked before ever putting water into a washer.

Post# 168918 , Reply# 25   11/21/2006 at 08:01 (6,359 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!)        

gansky1's profile picture
Fun machine, Jamie! You'll love playing with the Vari-Flex agitator.

Post# 168931 , Reply# 26   11/21/2006 at 08:29 (6,359 days old) by dick_s. ()        

Congratulations Jaime, you've got a very handsome Kenmore there. Once you get it up and running you'll discover that it is really a good performer and a neat sounding Kenmore. AND that full console width flourescent light is great for illuminating the tub and washing at night in low light.

I've put mine into semi-retirement to make room for the 53.

Let us know the outcome.

Dick_S.


Post# 168953 , Reply# 27   11/21/2006 at 11:25 (6,359 days old) by pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI)        

pulsator's profile picture
Okay, I've got the new belt, BUT I can't get the transmission gearcase brace nuts to move at ALL!!! There is a bit of the screw sticking out on each, so I know it's right handed threads, but they won't budge! There is no rust or corrosion of any kind on them, they just seemed to be really tight! Any ideas? I already just about broke my socket wrench trying to get it off!
P.S. Thanks for the kind comments everyone!!! I'm very excited to get this machine going again!!!


Post# 168954 , Reply# 28   11/21/2006 at 11:26 (6,359 days old) by pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI)        

pulsator's profile picture
Here's one of those stupid nuts that just doesn't wanna come off!

Post# 168962 , Reply# 29   11/21/2006 at 12:26 (6,359 days old) by coldspot66 (Plymouth, Mass)        

Try a deep 1/2" socket and soak with penetrating oil. The upper right had corner one is usually the toughest to remove.

Post# 168965 , Reply# 30   11/21/2006 at 13:14 (6,359 days old) by dadoes (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
Oh my! Is that a suds-saver valve I see?

Post# 168971 , Reply# 31   11/21/2006 at 14:53 (6,359 days old) by pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI)        

pulsator's profile picture
Yup Glen, that's a sudsaver that will most likely never be used... lol! Anyway, I FINALLY got the new belt on after THREE HOURS of labor trying to get the damn thing to do what I wanted it to. SOOOO, I put it back together, plugged it in and put it on drain..... :D IT WORKS!!! YAY!!!! However, there is a loud buzzing noise, which I'm certain is the suds solenoid, that can easily be fixed, but the next issue which I just noticed is that there is a HUGE leak.... since there is no bottom on the machine, I can tell it's coming from the front left corner... Is that where the water level hose goes? I REALLY want to avoid hauling it back out to work on it, how do I remove the top? Also, it seems that the hidden lid switch isn't something new.. I can't find it!!! It's no where to be seen on the lid, I'm guessing that getting the top off will help me locate and dismantle it. Other than that and waiting for the new light bulb to be delivered, it's complete!!! YAY!!!!!! THANK YOU EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP!!!!!!! I SOOOO missed hearing that Kenmore whine, now I'm a little closer, I just gotta get rid of that damn buzzing! lol
-Jamie


Post# 168975 , Reply# 32   11/21/2006 at 15:08 (6,359 days old) by roto204 (Tucson, AZ)        
Buzz and such

roto204's profile picture
Hi Jamie,

With my '61 Kenmore, it buzzed if the belt was too tight. Just something to note in case it's not the suds-saver.

Also, the leak may be caused by a bad doughnut seal (it's a rubber bushing-thing between the outer tub and the centershaft), which--at least up until I tried a year ago--was pretty easily available from Sears.

Best of luck with that! It's a gorgeous find, and congrats on getting the belt on--I used up all my obscenities doing that on the '61 myself.

Nate


Post# 168977 , Reply# 33   11/21/2006 at 15:27 (6,359 days old) by westytoploader ()        

YAY, glad it works! I don't think the buzzing is coming from the diverter valve...have you properly adjusted the belt tension yet? It should flex about 1/2" in either direction with approximately 6 lbs. of force (finger pressure).

As for the leak, it could be coming from a number of different places. Best thing is to run it with the back panel off so you can easily see where it is.

The hidden lid switch is a mercury switch. You'll see it attached to the lid stop when you raise the top. Just remove it, and tie the two wires together (with tape, of course), and that will solve the problem.


Post# 168981 , Reply# 34   11/21/2006 at 15:47 (6,359 days old) by dadoes (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
Front left could be the dispenser hose. Water level connects to the tub at the right rear. Depending on how the hoses connect (either one), the inner basket might have to pulled to change them. Old style water level pressure hose, before a plastic air dome was used, the hose passed through from inside the tub, kind of like that recirculation hose on Robert's Whirlpool combo.

If the mercury switch isn't attached to the lid hinge, it may have fallen off and is dangling inside the cabinet if the hinge bracket rusted.


Post# 168982 , Reply# 35   11/21/2006 at 15:53 (6,359 days old) by pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI)        

pulsator's profile picture
Well, nevermind about the top, I figured that out. lol! BUT here is the source of the leakage, appears to be a time release for the bleach dispenser and possiby fabric softener as there are two compartments. The leak is where the hose connects to the outer drum... This is gonna be very hard to get to... Any ideas? Austin, I couldn't adjust the bel tension, even after I loosened the motor mount screws to adjust that it wouldn't move. But, the buzzing doesn't happen 100% of the time. It's kinda like the way the bendix pump solenoid responds, sometimes it buzzes, sometimes it doesn't....

Post# 168983 , Reply# 36   11/21/2006 at 15:56 (6,359 days old) by dadoes (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
See above. The dispenser hose may pass through the tub from inside, in which case you have to pull the basket. Is there a clamp at the tub on the outside? If not, then it's from inside.

Post# 168988 , Reply# 37   11/21/2006 at 16:21 (6,359 days old) by pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI)        

pulsator's profile picture
Annnnnnnnnnnnnd here's where I get stuck, seems to always happen to me. I can never convince Kenmore agitators to come out... What do I do? and then more imporantly, how do I get the tub out after the agitator is out?

Post# 168996 , Reply# 38   11/21/2006 at 17:05 (6,359 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

goatfarmer's profile picture
Nice mo-chine!
That doesn't have an out of balance solenoid that would be buzzing,does it?

kennyGF


Post# 168997 , Reply# 39   11/21/2006 at 17:09 (6,359 days old) by bobofhollywood ()        
rust buster & prayer

That agitator has the fine toothed splined agitator shaft, which often tends to rust in place inside those gold colored agitators.

Put some rust buster or liquid wrench down the center hole in the agitator, filling it most likely. Let that set overnight and try it again in the morning. Just grab the skirt at the bottom and wiggling side to side, pull straight up. Do not hit yourself with the thing when it finally does come off. If you can get an Agi-tamer, this would be a good one to use it on.

Also, if you do not plan on using the suds saver valve, take off one wire to it and tape it safely to prevent shorts and shocks, and that'll make the big buzzing noise quit.

Neat looking machine, without a doubt.

Remember what Tom said for future project - ALWAYS put them into the pump out and spin FIRST before going any further. Very wise advice.

Good luck with it.

Bob


Post# 168999 , Reply# 40   11/21/2006 at 17:18 (6,359 days old) by compwhiz128 ()        

Wow

We had that same exact washer!

Till it crapped out...

And it had a staight vane agitator thingy


Post# 169070 , Reply# 41   11/21/2006 at 21:52 (6,359 days old) by rickr (.)        

rickr's profile picture
Hi Jamie
There is always room for another Kenmore in any home! lol!

When you change out the belt, and loosen the transmition, watch for a metal "bb" that may fall out of place from the main shaft. The instructions on the bag the belt comes in tells how to put the "bb" back in place.

r.


Post# 169183 , Reply# 42   11/22/2006 at 14:13 (6,358 days old) by pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI)        

pulsator's profile picture
Ok, I've gotten the agitator out thanks to WD-40 and boiling water. I've also gotten the tub nut out thanks to my new spanner nut wrench... My next issue is the inner drum. it won't budge! I've tried WD-40, PB, pounding on the sides with a rubber mallet, rocking the tub vertically from side to side, and jumping in rocking the tub side to side with my full body weight... I just don't know what to do... Any thoughts?

Post# 169191 , Reply# 43   11/22/2006 at 14:47 (6,358 days old) by dadoes (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
Keep rocking it. HARD.

Post# 169197 , Reply# 44   11/22/2006 at 15:47 (6,358 days old) by pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI)        
FINALLY!!!!!!

pulsator's profile picture
After about 5 straight minutes of jumping from side to side in it, it finally came loose!!!! YAY!!!!!! I've wanted to get an inner tub out ever since the '02 Convention when I saw John's Whirlpool coffee table!!!

Post# 169198 , Reply# 45   11/22/2006 at 15:51 (6,358 days old) by pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI)        

pulsator's profile picture
My next question... When I took off the tub ring, 2 of the 4 clips fell off, at least one went between the inner and outer tubs. After removing the inner tub, I found one of them in the out drum. I can't find the last one anywhere! I suspect that it fell into the pump, would it damage the pump to add some water and then drain out the clip? Do I need to tip the machine back on it's front and screw around with it some more and try to recover it?

Post# 169199 , Reply# 46   11/22/2006 at 15:55 (6,358 days old) by dadoes (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
If the clip got into the tub outlet, it wouldn't go directly into the pump. There's a protector/baffle that helps keep foreign objects out of the pump. IIRC, the bottom of it may be threaded for removal to clean out accumulated debris.

Post# 169204 , Reply# 47   11/22/2006 at 16:52 (6,358 days old) by pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI)        

pulsator's profile picture
Well, lucky me! As I was movin the washer to tip it on it's side to get that clip and check the belt tension, I found the clip! It was under the middle of the washer, the one place I couldn't see. So, I tipped the washer and the belt flexes half an inch or so inward when I push on it with finger strength. I also got a closer look at the suds saver valve and MAN!!! It was all rusty and corroded, I was surprised that it was able to move at all! So, I took off one of the wires and wrapped it in electrical tape, hopfully that'll solve the problem! I think all I need to do now is wait for the silicone to dry around that leak and lightly wire brush the agitator shaft spline to get rid of the rust! Then it's time to reassemble!!!! YAY!!!!!!!

Post# 169205 , Reply# 48   11/22/2006 at 17:05 (6,358 days old) by neptunebob (Pittsburgh, PA)        

neptunebob's profile picture
Yay, for removing the tub!. I was going to suggest placing the machine in a cool area, then once cool, pour boiling water over the tub shaft. That might expand the metal, freeing it from the shaft below. It might be a good idea to use an acid cleaner like Lime Away inside the tub to remove the minerals, it can also remove rust too. How is the pump, it could be causing a lot of noise, even if it isn't completely seized and a new one should quiet things down.

Post# 169231 , Reply# 49   11/22/2006 at 19:11 (6,358 days old) by pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI)        

pulsator's profile picture
Well, after letting the silicone patches dry, I decided to turn the machine on again now that I had disconnected the suds saver. The machine came on and was a lot quieter with the suds valve no longer buzzing, but it was still a bit loud. I though I'd let in run for a minute or two cuz I had had the machine tipped on it's side for so long, I figured this would give it a chance to move the oil around in the transmission, after a minute or so, the noise suddenly dropped to it's normal Kenmore hum!!!! YAY!!!! I stopped it and started it many many times to make sure that it wasn't just going to be quiet after it had been running for a minute or so, and it stays quiet!!! YAY!!!! Now my only pressing issue is that agitator spline rust. I took a wire brush to it and scrubbed it down a bit then cleaned it off and put some vaseline on and tried to stick an agitator on, got down about 3/4 of the way and stopped... CRAP! so now I've got some water gettin ready to boil on the stove to get it off and back to the wire brush!

Post# 169239 , Reply# 50   11/22/2006 at 20:06 (6,358 days old) by westytoploader ()        

Glad you're making progress, you'll have it up and running in no time! How does that "donut seal" look?

A word of caution: you need to make sure you let the silicone dry 24 HOURS before attempting to put ANY water in it. Otherwise, it might not seal properly.


Post# 169240 , Reply# 51   11/22/2006 at 20:08 (6,358 days old) by neptunebob (Pittsburgh, PA)        

neptunebob's profile picture
So you can use my suggestion after all!. If you have one of those small wire brushes used to clean car battery clamps try using it to clean up the spline inside the agitator, it probably has excess rust or minerals too.

Post# 169289 , Reply# 52   11/23/2006 at 06:23 (6,357 days old) by irishwashguy (Salem,Oregon.............A Capital City)        
Nice machine Jamie!!

irishwashguy's profile picture
She will be going good in no time. My Grandmother had one of these machines in one of the apts that she would rent to people.Her machine had a black preg Roto swirl with the scrubber top on it as I recall. I wonder if CLR could help get some of the build up.Michigan water where I lived had alot of Iron in it as I recall(I lived in Kalamazoo for about a year)I would hear people talk about the iron in the water. Good luck wtih your project, I know that you will do a Fabulous job on it:)


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