Thread Number: 9522
Maytag A207 - purchased 1974 |
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Post# 176478 , Reply# 1   12/18/2006 at 15:25 (6,336 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY)   |   | |
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Post# 176493 , Reply# 4   12/18/2006 at 17:45 (6,336 days old) by pturo (Syracuse, New York)   |   | |
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I would repair it, and the fill flume thing is probably the leak source, it was on mine. Rubber parts only last so long, but these machines will last forever with the simplest of replacement parts. They don't make that "dependable care" design anymore, it was too good. |
Post# 176549 , Reply# 6   12/18/2006 at 22:21 (6,335 days old) by mayken4now (Panama City, Florida)   |   | |
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Post# 176556 , Reply# 7   12/18/2006 at 22:34 (6,335 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)   |   | |
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I agree with Steve. Get your hands dirty, learn the machine, and your respect for it will grow ten fold. If you need help, ask away here, or grab a Maytag Helical repair manual off ebay for those times when you need a quick answer. It is much more helpful than the Master's repair manual (red book). Ben |
Post# 176571 , Reply# 8   12/18/2006 at 23:03 (6,335 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)   |   | |
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This is actually a Picture of the Day - but it is a great cut-away from Maytag - in color! It will give you an idea of where everything is in the machine when you take off the front cover. The only thing that isn't labeled is the fill flume, which is just above the water valve in the picture, on the left hand side. |
Post# 176602 , Reply# 10   12/19/2006 at 07:38 (6,335 days old) by mayken4now (Panama City, Florida)   |   | |
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Post# 176606 , Reply# 11   12/19/2006 at 07:59 (6,335 days old) by laundromat (Hilo, Hawaii)   |   | |
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There is a rubber piece that goes over the jet spray that is a cone shaped plastic piect which guides the incoming fill spray into the tub.this piece wares out from water presure and needs to be replaced usualy every 5 years.It is available at any Maytag parts distributer or service center and runs about $8.To install it takes the removal of the screws holding the front panel in place as well as the bolts holding the lid.Once the lid is loose,raise it up and just on the upper left side , you'll see the straight nozel leeding into the "j"or "elbow"shaped hose going into the wash tub.Inbetween the 2 hoses,you'll see the 2 clamps holding the 2 parts together.Be sure you have unplugged the washer and turned off the water suply.Loosen the clamp holding the hose onto the nozel and remove it.Take out the nozel and remove the rubber sock around it.You'll emediately see how stretched it is.place the new sock on and replace the nozel tightening up the clamps and replacing the lid and front.Before you reattach the front,run the washer to be sure the leak has stopped.Not too hard a repair but there may be some cleaning up to do to remove any sediment the previous leak has left in the base.Don't be surprised if you see some rust starting on the left side below the nozel.Depending on how long the leak has been occuring.Good luck!!
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Post# 176708 , Reply# 12   12/19/2006 at 15:39 (6,335 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)   |   | |
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Post# 176753 , Reply# 16   12/19/2006 at 19:29 (6,335 days old) by christfr (st louis mo)   |   | |
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Post# 177180 , Reply# 19   12/21/2006 at 16:46 (6,333 days old) by steveak ()   |   | |
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Here are the new parts. |
Post# 177311 , Reply# 21   12/21/2006 at 22:33 (6,332 days old) by neptunebob (Pittsburgh, PA)   |   | |
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These hose clamps are/were found on some GM cars for the heater hoses. I would tap down on the part where the bolt came out, that should loosen the clamps. But wait, I just looked, do you actually have to undo that part? It looks as if there is a similar but different looking fitting on the new hose assembly! If you do have to remove the clamps, as you might from the water valve, you may not be able to reuse them but you can buy worm screw clamps from auto parts stores that will work. Good luck! Nep
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Post# 177409 , Reply# 23   12/22/2006 at 14:03 (6,332 days old) by neptunebob (Pittsburgh, PA)   |   | |
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Are you sure it (sounding like Westinghouse!) that it is not inside the new assembly but maybe a different color plastic, maybe clear like the rest of the assembly is? I believe these parts may have something to do with preventing "backflow" in case something happens to the water supply to prevent contamination. I would place the assembly on the washer and see if it works without a leak. Nep, who wishes a merry Christmas with a non-leaking Maytag. Now aren't you glad you sat on Santa's lap and asked for this part and for our advice?
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Post# 177410 , Reply# 24   12/22/2006 at 14:11 (6,332 days old) by steved (Guilderland, New York)   |   | |
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I assume since you were sold a replacement "assembly" that all the old parts can go - it seem as if the airgap is an uppdated version of the old style. SteveD |
Post# 177418 , Reply# 26   12/22/2006 at 14:48 (6,332 days old) by neptunebob (Pittsburgh, PA)   |   | |
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Post# 177762 , Reply# 28   12/23/2006 at 22:55 (6,330 days old) by pturo (Syracuse, New York)   |   | |
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I replaced mine and any hardware store stainless replacement clamp will do, does not have to be Maytag, just the right size for the job. |
Post# 178041 , Reply# 29   12/25/2006 at 06:44 (6,329 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)   |   | |
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