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Thread Number: 9523
Tall Tub Dishwashers and GFI Circuits |
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| Post# 176475 12/18/2006 at 15:10 (6,337 days old) by retroguy () | ||
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An experts point of view in an article that I came across and found interesting. CLICK HERE TO GO TO retroguy's LINK | ||
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Post# 176484 , Reply# 1 12/18/2006 at 16:52 (6,337 days old) by frigilux  (The Minnesota Prairie) |
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| Post# 176529 , Reply# 2 12/18/2006 at 20:19 (6,337 days old) by exploder321 () | ||
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Ours is wired into a GFCI outlet.... I thought that all kitchen electrics should be | ||
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Post# 176712 , Reply# 3 12/19/2006 at 15:46 (6,336 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY) |
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Most DW-ers in my area are hard-wired in; not plug-and-cord (flex) connected.I actually had to go out-of-state to see one plugged in. IIRC a freezer or refrigerator is not to be connected to a GFI- Nuisiance "trips" can be coslty and hugely inconvenient. Intersting to note in the newer NEC (National Electric Code)* is the requirement of arc-fault circuit interrupters in bedroom circuits. Fits in the circuit-breaker panel. Neutral goes into it instead of the general "bus" Measures both sides of current as does a GF(C)I**, but does so "looking" for arcing. *NEC=> Some cities (and maybe states) have more stringent codes on top of this. Local "rules" of law are called ordinances. ** Residual Current Interrupter" on the other side of the pond, IIRC. CLICK HERE TO GO TO toggleswitch's LINK | ||
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Post# 176714 , Reply# 4 12/19/2006 at 15:47 (6,336 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY) |
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Post# 176715 , Reply# 5 12/19/2006 at 15:48 (6,336 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY) |
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Post# 176717 , Reply# 6 12/19/2006 at 15:54 (6,336 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY) |
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Post# 176719 , Reply# 7 12/19/2006 at 15:55 (6,336 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY) |
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| Post# 176771 , Reply# 8 12/19/2006 at 20:47 (6,336 days old) by exploder321 () | ||
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Thats confusing | ||
| Post# 176919 , Reply# 9 12/20/2006 at 09:55 (6,335 days old) by retroguy () | ||
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Toggles.... Thanks for adding all that info. Something to think about for my basement. (And anything else I might do.) | ||
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Post# 178100 , Reply# 10 12/25/2006 at 14:05 (6,330 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California) |
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Oh, thanks, Retroguy. Yet another "Honey-do" to put on the list!!! :-) (Yeah, I know, Toggle, in NYC you have to hire a licensed union electrician at $80+/hr to show his pencil holder butt-crack as he upgrades your outlets and breakers... but here out west we he-men do all this stuff ourselves, when we get a "round tuit")... ;-) I just happen to have more than a few 20 amp GFCI outlets in the garage just waiting to be installed. The DW and the garbage disposal are first on my list. Already done the baths and indoor kitchen, as well as the fish pond. The patio kitchen is proving resistant becuase of the unique configuration of the outlet plates where the initial power comes in... two dual switches in the old outlet configuration, and then a standard outlet, three outlet parts in all. I'll have to change the two outlet swtiches over to the big rectangular format to accomodate the GFCI, but it will no doubt be worth the expense. The house circuit breakers however are obsolete Federal Pacific (which however are working just fine) and I doubt that there are any AFCI breakers available for them. That will have to wait for a breaker panel box upgrade to SquareD or similar modern brand. | ||
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Post# 178223 , Reply# 11 12/26/2006 at 12:17 (6,329 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY) |
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What a manly man!
~You have to hire a licensed union electrician at $80+/hr For entertainement maybe. I actually do my own wiring with BX instead of allowable Romex. Although plastic sheating is not a bad thing, there is something about a hard steel casing that is resistant to big spikes and nails that works for me. :-) ~The house circuit breakers however are obsolete Federal Pacific (which however are working just fine. I believe these lost their UL listing /approval rating a long time ago. They appear to be reluctant to blow/trip during overloads and are believed to be a major fire-hazard. I am guessing this is why they can no longer be found. CLICK HERE TO GO TO toggleswitch's LINK | ||
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Post# 178224 , Reply# 12 12/26/2006 at 12:21 (6,329 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY) |
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I almost bought a Round Tuit years back before flea-pay existed. It was in one of those catalogues of small household itmes (Read: Porqueria.. junkly little sh--.) It was a latexy-rubbery thingy that was round (labeled a round-tuit) and was to be used a a jar opener /gripper. Here is a wooden version: CLICK HERE TO GO TO toggleswitch's LINK on eBay | ||
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Post# 178230 , Reply# 13 12/26/2006 at 12:29 (6,329 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY) |
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We just can't get that toggle to stop!
~The breakers may also fail to shut off internally even if the toggle is switched to "off." Defective Toggle. BIG SURPRISE! LOL. This linked article refers to the "Stab-lok" type CLICK HERE TO GO TO toggleswitch's LINK | ||
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Post# 178231 , Reply# 14 12/26/2006 at 12:31 (6,329 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY) |
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Post# 178237 , Reply# 15 12/26/2006 at 12:53 (6,329 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY) |
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Identifying the suspect circuit-breakers and panels ("consumer units" across the pond)
CLICK HERE TO GO TO toggleswitch's LINK | ||
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Post# 178241 , Reply# 16 12/26/2006 at 13:45 (6,329 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY) |
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Post# 178251 , Reply# 17 12/26/2006 at 14:31 (6,329 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California) |
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Yes, Togs, I am well aware of the history of problems with the Federal Pacific breakers. I got educated over on the THS electrical wiring forums. However, I know they are working... because I've tripped them on occasion... The panel was inpsected when I bought the home and there was no sign of arcing (a different FP problem with the Stab-lok panels) or of overheating. I am also careful not to overload circuits. Of course it's on my list of things to do, that is, replace all the FP panels (there are three on the property), but it's relatively low on the list. You can find FP breakers, however, they tend to be very expensive. Fortunately I have some spares just in case. | ||
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Post# 178270 , Reply# 18 12/26/2006 at 15:52 (6,329 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY) |
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Say no to crack! | ||
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Post# 178271 , Reply# 19 12/26/2006 at 15:57 (6,329 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY) |
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Post# 178364 , Reply# 20 12/26/2006 at 20:13 (6,329 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California) |
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Yes, I also noticed the aluminum wiring, which is a problem all in itself quite apart from the brand breakers or panel. Unless the connections are designed for aluminum, they can loosen which more or less invites a poor connection, heating, arcing and worse. My hunch is that FP started making shoddy breakers and/or panels sometime later than those installed in my home (mid-60's). Perhaps that's wishful thinking but it lets me sleep at night. Hey, if you can't be queen for a day, why not be pontiff for a message or two? | ||
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