Thread Number: 9864
What constitutes a good rinse? |
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Post# 182174   1/10/2007 at 07:39 (6,288 days old) by newwave1 (Lincoln, United Kingdom)   |   | |
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I thought i would start a thread that i'm interested in hearing everyones different opinions on. What do you think makes for the best rinse possible. My favourite part of a cycle is the rinse, so i'm intregued into everyones different opinions. I have a hoover logic which is a real waterhog it does 3 high level rinses with a spin after the first and 2nd rinse at 500rpm. The high quantity of water twined with the slow spins makes for a very good result. However....I feel it could be better. i.e faster spins inbetween rinses. What does make sense to me is my AEG model dating back from 2003. Standardly it does 3 rinses with a recirculatory jet with timesaver pressed it does 2. The 3 rinses are; a 900rpm spin after the wash, and 3 low level rinses with 1200rpm spins after each rinse. IF it is aload of towels it will fill and distribute at the same time and spin the load 3 times at 250rpm to spin the soap out.I find this a fairly effective way with low water levels. and after its done the spins it turns at distribution speed in both directions until the drain. I find that the recirculatory jet is more of a hinderence to the rinse result as it whips suds up and dumps residue onto rinsed clothes when it begins to recirculate for the next rinse. With timesaver it does 2 high rinses with a 900rpm spin after the wash and a 1200rpm spin after the 1st rinse. With super rinse pressed. It does 5 rinses without timesaver and 4 with timesaver. However it doesnt spin until after the 3rd rinse which is only at 400rpm so to me the rinse result will be the same at the end. This really doesn't make sense to me. Surely it would make sense to keep the high spins inbetween for an even better result. There are many factors that i feel need to be considered to get a true rinse result. drum speed, water level, spins, jets. I just wondered if any of you guys would like to throw your opinions in. Are you to fussed about rinsing? What sort of things do you think make a good rinse? I'd like it if you guys would take the time to reply to this one:D Attached is a picture of my hoover rinsing |
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Post# 182197 , Reply# 1   1/10/2007 at 09:17 (6,288 days old) by mattywashboy (Perth, Western Australia)   |   | |
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okay, my 'perfect' rinse is high water levels and fats spins in between. I liked the old system of 4 rinses because clothes did come out fresh. My front load whirlpool used to rinse in hi water levels but did not do long fast spins in between, two short bursts at 600 rpm and then fill, not really a great rinse. Because i had the drain hose hooked over the sink, i could monitor the amount of suds in the final drain and sadly it was more often than not, still quite full of suds. The problem with washers nowadays is they focus on being water efficient and energy efficient, i think they should have just stuck the old way and actually got clothes clean without arsing around monitoring water levels and adusting cycle times blah blah. I know these modern day machines are only trying to save us some time and money but i would much rather pay to have clean, well rinsed, well spun clothes. So i believe, 4 rinses, all at a high level, power distributes same as hoover and hotties, that will solve the OOB problems we have, fast spins in between rinses at a decent length. I believe that would produce a good result. Maybe also they could think about raising the drum speed during rinse cycles. Matt |
Post# 182200 , Reply# 2   1/10/2007 at 09:23 (6,288 days old) by robm (Buxted)   |   | |
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Post# 182203 , Reply# 3   1/10/2007 at 09:30 (6,287 days old) by peterh770 (Marietta, GA)   |   | |
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Three rinses if conditioner is not used, four rinses if conditioner is used. All high level to get good dilution. Some suds -- thin bubbles more like -- are completely acceptable to me in the last rinse as long as the water is crystal clear. I wish I could program my Miele to do warm rinsing because doing cotton loads, warm rinsing seems to do much better (at least in a toploader), and woolens should be rinsed in the same temp as they are washed. As for the interim spins, I use the Delicate and Perm Press cycles frequently and they don't spin between rinses. While clothes come out smelling a bit more of the detergent used in these cycles, the rinse water come the final rinse is nice and clear. However, for heavy cottons (T-shirts, underwear, socks, towels), interim spins are very necessary. |
Post# 182227 , Reply# 5   1/10/2007 at 11:39 (6,287 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY)   |   | |
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~As for the interim spins, I use the Delicate and Perm Press cycles frequently and they don't spin between rinses. I don't have lingerie or plastic clothing so I don't use these cycles. Similarly, I like a spin between each rinse. My feeling is that a interim spins rid clothing of residues embedeed in fibers. Gotta try warm rinses. Never saw a discernable difference to date. |
Post# 182255 , Reply# 9   1/10/2007 at 13:59 (6,287 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY)   |   | |
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~The only time I had any trouble with rinsing was when I used too much oxygen powder and a single rinse. Rash city! So, when I use an oxygen powder in the wash, I always use a second rinse. THANK YOU! Seriously. I have been hitting the Oxy-clean heavily lately and I'm one big itch! False alarm. (That Vag-i-sil is expensive and messy as hell.) |
Post# 182280 , Reply# 11   1/10/2007 at 16:19 (6,287 days old) by peterh770 (Marietta, GA)   |   | |
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Some loads just don't need 1:47 of a cotton cycle, but need more than 32 mins of the cotton cycle with the rapid wash option. Also, when time is at a premium, the cotton cycle is just too long. This is where the PP cycle (1:12) and Delicate (55 mins) come into play. And sometime you wish you just had an old fashioned, no nonsense top loader to connect up... |
Post# 182284 , Reply# 12   1/10/2007 at 16:38 (6,287 days old) by launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)   |   | |
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Proper rinsing depends much upon what is being rinsed,IMHO. For instance light cotton percale sheets and shirts do well with three high water level rinses, but no interim spinning and only a short final spin. Heavier/bulky items will of course need the full five high level rinses on my Miele. Being a vintage washer, by "high level" I do mean just that with around 10 gallons per rinse for "cottons". Find light cottons like percale need much less ironing, the less they are spun. Combined with Miele's "cyclic rinsing", this works well. Proper rinsing of course means using a detergent designed to rinse cleanly without residue. L. |
Post# 182453 , Reply# 15   1/11/2007 at 00:32 (6,287 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California)   |   | |
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I think the best way to evaluated the optimum number and type of rinses is to measure the residual contaminants - detergent, soil, etc, in the final rinse water. A gal over in the THS forums used what I recall was a dissolved particulate meter to measure rinsing efficiency. Good rinsing also is dependent upon the type and amount of soap or detergent used. A good detergent that keeps soil suspended, rather than deposit back onto clothes, and one that doesn't form precipitates with hard water minerals, will likely rinse out much better with the same number of rinses as one without these virtues. |
Post# 189750 , Reply# 16   2/9/2007 at 07:16 (6,258 days old) by sillysuds (new jersey)   |   | |
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The best rinse was with the old (Belt) drive,Kenmore and Whirlpool's eight spray rinses and one deep rinse.better than today's direct drive's |
Post# 189840 , Reply# 19   2/9/2007 at 19:41 (6,257 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!)   |   | |
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Post# 189902 , Reply# 21   2/10/2007 at 01:14 (6,257 days old) by agiflow ()   |   | |
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Tide sucks for Towels in my TL machine..even with 3 15 second spray rinses when using the extra rinse option..there actually at times seems to be more suds in the last rinse, though the water itself is fairly clear. |
Post# 189908 , Reply# 22   2/10/2007 at 05:12 (6,257 days old) by sillysuds (new jersey)   |   | |
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How much Tide do you use? I use a lot less than what they say on the box,and my clothes come out clean. |
Post# 190004 , Reply# 24   2/10/2007 at 19:56 (6,256 days old) by rinso (Meridian Idaho)   |   | |
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I wish my Hettie had about four 15 second spray rinses during a spin. I've always felt that water spraying into the clothes while they are extracting was a good supplement to a deep rinse. |
Post# 191160 , Reply# 26   2/15/2007 at 02:45 (6,252 days old) by launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)   |   | |
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Actually one does not need lots of water to wash wool with modern commercial wet cleaning processes. This could be the reason your commercial Miele washer uses so little water. The more water wool is floating about in gives fibres that much more water to absorb, and absorbtion of water can cause wool to shrink/distort. Also wool does not attract nor hold soils,so long and or aggressive washing is not necessary. This is especially true if spots and stains are treated beforehand. Managed to nab some "wet cleaning" detergent and fabric conditioner. Directions for items marked "dry clean only" call for a 5-8 minute wash cycle, low water, slow dipping at first, then long pauses,dips, then long pauses again (this detergent works independant of mechanical action), drain, short spin. Rinse is one cycle again with low level water and the conditoner for about 5 minutes,drain then extract for a short period on fast spin. My cashmeres and other woolens have never been cleaner and softer using this method, with no shrinking, stretching or fading. Best of all the conditioner and detergent block wool fibers from absorbing water and protect from a short fluff period in the dryer (less than three minutes). The above method works so well haven't used the "Wool" cycle on my vintage Miele,which by the way fills up to about 3/4 or more than a half drum of water. Only time really use that cycle is for laundering bulky items like down filled pillows. L. |