Thread Number: 10521
Broken Maytag top loader
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Post# 192313   2/19/2007 at 19:41 (4,598 days old) by mred ()        

Yesterday our Maytag failed. It's a top loader. Wash tub spins but will not drain. After a minute I smell a faint burning rubber smell. Machine is a model A212; serial # 384585NP. Is this a genuine Maytag or is it Amana or Norge or whatever? The washer came with the house. If it's a genuine Maytag I may repair, if not I may junk it. Opinions please. Thanks.

Post# 192314 , Reply# 1   2/19/2007 at 19:44 (4,598 days old) by dadoes (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
Get a new pump and replace both belts.

Post# 192330 , Reply# 2   2/19/2007 at 21:28 (4,598 days old) by mred ()        
Broken Maytag Top Loader

Is this machine a genuine Maytag design or a Maytag labeled machine designed by one of the other companies they purchased? I'll only fix it if it is genuine Maytag. I called Maytag today and they claim they have no records of this model and serial number. They checked twice.

Post# 192332 , Reply# 3   2/19/2007 at 21:34 (4,598 days old) by westytoploader ()        

Yes it is a genuine Maytag. The 12-series was from the mid-80's I believe.

Post# 192355 , Reply# 4   2/19/2007 at 23:25 (4,598 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        
Part #'s for parts

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Here are the Part #'s for your washer

Pump Part # 202203 (retail $58.92)
Pump Belt Part # 211124 (retail $21.19)
Trans. Belt Part # 211125 (retail $21.19)

Prices on eBay for these items are a fraction of the retail cost. Both belts are currently going for $6.00 and the pump is going for $9.00.

Ebay Item #'s

Belts 230093339838
Pump 230093324568


Post# 192360 , Reply# 5   2/19/2007 at 23:38 (4,598 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)        
Maytag Checked Twice?

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If Maytag double-checked the model and serial numbers and couldn't come up with a match, that brings up some disturbing possibilities.

By now, of course, most essential records have probably been transferred from Newton to Benton Harbor, MI or Cleveland, TN. If they checked and couldn't find your numbers, that could mean that records have been mislaid, or that Whirlpool people aren't yet experienced enough in interpreting them.

Neither scenario sounds good for classic Maytag owners.

Post# 192386 , Reply# 6   2/20/2007 at 07:58 (4,597 days old) by irishwashguy (Salem,Oregon.............A Capital City)        
Fix it, it is incredibly simple

irishwashguy's profile picture
Did you need a little help with the belts and the pump? OH!! And the Whirlpool people do not know what they are talking about, then again, they only have two designs form washers that this point anyway, all Direct drive. It sounds like your machine is a BOL Maytag from the 80's. My Mom has a 412 that is from 1987. The old one was a 407. Both are MOL. (BOL= bottom of line) (MOL= middle of line) These machines are a dying breed. they stopped making them just reciently.

Post# 192442 , Reply# 7   2/20/2007 at 14:20 (4,597 days old) by coldspot66 (Plymouth, Mass)        

Check to see if there is a sock or some small article of clothing in the pump.

Post# 192479 , Reply# 8   2/20/2007 at 18:14 (4,597 days old) by mred ()        

Thanks to all who responded. I'm not mechanically inclined and therefore hesitant to try to fix this myself. I may replace the machine so that we can keep the clothes washed but keep the maytag and attempt a repair in the future when I'm not under pressure to get it done asap. I always thought Maytags were great machines but reviewing past messages on this board makes it clear that not all Maytag washers are genuine Maytags. How sad such a great company self-destructed.

Post# 192481 , Reply# 9   2/20/2007 at 18:40 (4,597 days old) by dadoes (TX, U.S. of A.)        

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Checking/replacing the pump is quite easy. The machine's front panel comes off (two screws at the lower corners), the panel bottom lifts up and the whole thing comes off. Remove the two hoses. Tip the machine forward, slip the belt off, three screws hold the pump in place.

The pump belt is normally pretty loose. The motor is on a spring-loaded slide plate to self-adjust for proper tension, but the pump is mounted in key-slots for a bit of adjustment. Don't get the pump adjusted too tight or the main drive belt may end up too loose.

Post# 192673 , Reply# 10   2/21/2007 at 14:07 (4,596 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains)        
easy fixes, one danger

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I think you should fix it. Even replacing the pump is no big deal in these old Maytags.
A few things to look at while you have the power disconnected and the front cover off:
The motor is mounted on a "sled". If the four nylon wheels are worn or the springs no longer springy, then replace them. The kit is not expensive.
If there is something in the pump, you may be able to see it through the translucent plastic. If not, take the hose from the tub off and look. You can fix it, or replace it very easily.
The two belts are located under the machine. You will need to tilt it up (and note which goes where) to change them. They must be genuine Maytag, the automotive belts folks sometimes install are a big mistake. Maytag purposely used belts with give to them, saved a lot of trouble prone parts.
One big danger: When the washer is on and spinning, the entire gear case rotates around inside the machine. Can kill you or really hurt you.
Never mind the BOL/MOL discussion. There is no American top loader made today, regardless of price, which is even close to this "old" Maytag in workmanship or durability. And when you look at the cleaning "results" of these new machines...gees louise...Definitely worth fixing.
Of course Whirlpool is lying to you. I found your machine and the same parts numbers as Dan listed even over here in Germany in one of our parts catalogs...for stock. Also found the same data at
Best thing to do is to fix it, then send the receipt for the parts and a letter to Whirlpool headquarters telling them what their marketing idiots told you,that you got the "non-existent" washer fixed and why you aren't going to buy a new one from them just because of this.
Good luck - if you have any questions about the repair(s)or decide to do it, let us know!

Post# 192677 , Reply# 11   2/21/2007 at 14:31 (4,596 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)        
Soooooo Easy:

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Trust us, the innards of your washer are so simple that you CAN fix it yourself, first try. In fact, if you order the parts online and do the repair yourself, that will probably take far less time and hassle than shopping for a new washer. THAT easy.

People here will help you any way they know how. And they do know how.

Post# 192715 , Reply# 12   2/21/2007 at 18:41 (4,596 days old) by mred ()        

Thanks for the how to fix it information. I've decided to give it a try. Where on-line would I be able to order the parts at the low prices mentioned in an earlier response? I think the possibility of the pump ingesting something like a sock makes sense - - we'll see. I think Friday I'll have time to take the first step to diagnose this. Thanks very much for the offers to help me through this process. I bet I'll have some more questions.

Post# 192749 , Reply# 13   2/21/2007 at 21:28 (4,596 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)        
Parts and Info

danemodsandy's profile picture

EBay is going to be your best bet for the parts you need- you'll get great prices that way. One caveat- make absolutely certain that the belts are genuine Maytag. Maytag belts are meant to slip at certain times- regular fan belts won't do that properly, and your washer won't work correctly if you use them. So, make sure the package says Maytag, and don't be afraid to ask questions of the eBay seller.

Here's a link to photos of the belt setup underneath the machine:

And here's a link to photos of the pump location inside the machine:

The pump is right behind the front panel of the machine, which is easy to remove. Just look at the bottom of the front panel, about 4-1/2 inches from the floor where the toe kick begins. You will see two screws. Tilt the washer back, supporting it with a piece of sturdy wood. Supporting the panel at the bottom with one hand, undo the screws. Lift the front panel off. The pump is on the floor of the washer cabinet, on the right-hand side as you face the washer.

Let us know if you need more help; there is no such thing as a dumb question. This is an easy repair.

Post# 192804 , Reply# 14   2/22/2007 at 03:44 (4,595 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains)        

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Actually, you might find the belts for less than 15$ for both at the local parts store. Shipping can often exceed the cost of both belts.
Of course, we may have overlooked the possibility that there might be something wrapped around one of the belts/pulleys under the machine...happens.
Do let us know if you have any questions. The first A408 I every did was with two very skeptical ladies watching, several cats and a four year old whom they would not discipline wandering in and out of the area I was working in...and the whole thing (belts, clear sacrifice of one (1) sock to the goddess of laundry, out of the pump, motor-sled wheels and springs) took less than an hour. And I had never done it before in my life.
Have the machine solidly supported when you tilt it back, be sure no idiot can plug it back in (the four year old tried that one, but paranoid as I am, I had already pulled the breaker at the box. Good thing, too - I didn't see it until after I was done. Check that the hose connections in and out of the machine are still tight.)
You will find it was worth it!
Oh, if you get another "ain't no such thing" Or,"we only have parts for the last eight years" in-duh-vi-dual, just keep going through the numbers. A108, A107, A106...A808,A21X, A40X etc. Eventually they will have to admit that there might have been such a beast once upon a time. Or so...
When I can't buy locally (always try to support small business people) I get my parts in the US through
They aren't the cheapest, but they have a 24 hour turn around which actually works. And they have always been friendly and helpful when I asked my stupidest questions.
Keep us up to speed on your efforts - bet you will discover you aren't nearly as "un-mechanical" as you thought.

Post# 193194 , Reply# 15   2/24/2007 at 05:40 (4,593 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

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Pump replacement is a pretty easy repair. One other thing to remember, lay the drain hose, on the back of the machine, on the floor, next to a floor drain or similar, BEFORE you take the pump off. You might end up with a lapful of water if you dont! This will drain out most of the water, that's still in the machine.
Motor slide is a little tougher, you have to get a setscrew off the motor pulley, to do that one. Some I've seen were next to impossible to break loose.


Post# 193201 , Reply# 16   2/24/2007 at 07:34 (4,593 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains)        

panthera's profile picture
I have found them difficult at times, too. Never encountered one that did not, eventually give tho'.
Used to use Freon on them, but that one is kinda out now-a-days.
Don't like to use WD-40 there for obvious reasons.
Any suggestions?

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