Thread Number: 11131
I wanna live syndrome
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Post# 200743   4/2/2007 at 00:22 (6,206 days old) by northwesty (Renton, WA)        

Well this dryer did spend a few days outside under a tarp but I decided to fiddle around with it a little and woundn't you know it it works pretty good. It's serial number is TJ-61 and I am guessing it is the early 1947 model but correct me if I am wrong. It sprang to life with the new 220 volt cord... so I cleaned it up and put some new belts on it, and I did some other work. Seems to work fine except of course the timer doesn't advance.






Post# 200746 , Reply# 1   4/2/2007 at 00:29 (6,206 days old) by northwesty (Renton, WA)        
Testing in Laundry room

Even the little light comes on above the door. Heats up, drum rotates, fan blows. It's pretty quite too.

I would like to figure out how this operates on 115. I did try a regular cord and outlet and it didn't do a thing. It says its a 115 machine though above the heating element in back it says it will operate on both.


Post# 200748 , Reply# 2   4/2/2007 at 00:34 (6,206 days old) by northwesty (Renton, WA)        
In the garage for now

I've seen this combination befor in some old magazines, the Bendix and a Hamilton dryer anyway. The dryer dwarfs the little Bendix. Anyway I might hold on to it for a while in hope that a 47-49 Frigidaire comes my way. I know they are growing on trees after all.

Post# 200753 , Reply# 3   4/2/2007 at 00:58 (6,206 days old) by dadoes (TX, U.S. of A.)        

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Love the pic!

Post# 200768 , Reply# 4   4/2/2007 at 06:16 (6,205 days old) by christfr (st louis mo)        

christfr's profile picture
really nice.. great addition to your collection..

Post# 200770 , Reply# 5   4/2/2007 at 07:20 (6,205 days old) by mayken4now (Panama City, Florida)        
Email sent on 04/01/07, was returned undeliverable so this i

mayken4now's profile picture
Hi Brian:

The 1947 Frigidaire is with Gyrafoam(Steve) and so is the dryer. As far as a restoration on those machines, I think it is interesting and somewhat difficult. I gave the machines to Gyrafoam last August and they sit right where they landed. Never touched yet. Frigidaires are NOT easy to work on, but can be a lot of fun to restore if that makes any sense. Your dryer should be rather easy to do. What year is it? Let me know which machines you have and what is available to you. Where do you live?

Steve


Post# 200783 , Reply# 6   4/2/2007 at 08:56 (6,205 days old) by jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)        
That definetly has the

jetcone's profile picture
I wanna live syndrome.
I think that is a Hamilton dryer made for Frigidaire I think the next year GM came out with its own machine.
It doesn't walk when its drying??

Unbelieveable.

Running on 110 shouldn't be a problem it just has to be wired correctly across the timer motor, motor and heater elements. But that will double the drying time for sure.

Does it have the purple polio light running when its drying??

jon


Post# 200883 , Reply# 7   4/2/2007 at 21:17 (6,205 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY)        

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Guys:
Where does the Frigidaire dryer vent from? Is the warm-moist air tossed out into the room by way of the front opening near the floor?

~ I did try a regular cord and outlet and it didn't do a thing. It says its a 115 machine though above the heating element in back it says it will operate on both.

The red lead (heating element only) needs to move to neutral (white) lead., for 110-120v operaton

When the heater is on 220-240v is it connected to black and red. All the other electricals will be connected to black (hot) and white (neutral) which provides 110-120v.

So, to get the heater onto 110-120v, its red lead needs to be moved to the terminal where the (other) white leads are.

If this post is unclear, please include a pic of the area where the power/flex cord goes into the machine. We'll take it from there.....TKS.


Post# 200928 , Reply# 8   4/3/2007 at 07:14 (6,204 days old) by tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        

When dryers say that they are for operation on 120-240 volts, it usually means that there are components of the machine that operate on 120, like the motor, timer motor, lights etc and there is the heating element which operates on 240. Moving the wires of the 120 volt cord between one of the two hot sides and the neutral middle connector will enable most to operate on a strong 120 volt single appliance circuit.

There should be a pullout filter attached to an almost rectangular discharge duct on the front of the dryer. Hamilton dryers used the "Carrier Current" to move steam out of the dryer. A fan drew air into the dryer at the base. A small amount of that air was carried up and over the heating element to enter the drying chamber. Most of the air flowed in such a way that it pulled the steamy air out of the bottom of the drying chamber. Ross Moore, the inventor of the dryer discovered that the rotation of the drum and the tumbling clothes brought the humid air to the bottom of the machine because the hot air in the top of the dryer was cooled and became heavier when it absorbed the moisture, so it fell down to the area where the the moving stream of room air sucked it away. All except the first Hamilton dryers could be vented by putting a baffle in place between the filter and the discharge duct. This directed the air to the rear of the machine where it could be vented through a 3 inch pipe. Higher air flow dryers used 4 inch vent pipe. The first Hamilton Gas dryers had two vents. One was for the air flow of the drying laundry. The other was a little vent through the top rear of the dryer with a little pointed cap chimney. This dryer did not have the products of combustion flow through the dryer like most gas dryers. Rather, it heated a glow plate in the upper part of the outer drum that radiated heat into the dryer much like an electric element would, but not as well.


Post# 200942 , Reply# 9   4/3/2007 at 09:15 (6,204 days old) by northwesty (Renton, WA)        
Thanks so much for all the information

Here is that part that goes into the front of the machine. I must say that for the four vintage dryers I own this one is the only one with a lint filter and its the oldest.

I haven't switched the plug yet - it will require a trip to the hardware store. Thanks Steve for that info that was what I was looking for.



Post# 201026 , Reply# 10   4/3/2007 at 20:40 (6,204 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY)        

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:-)

Please be sure your new cord is rated at least 16 amps which is what one would expect the maximum current draw to be on an appliance designed for a 110v, 20a circuit (80%).

In a pinch, an air-condtioner extension cords of a sufficinet gauge/capacity may be avaialble at Homo Depot or bLowe's. Cut off the female end and VIOLA! you have your (flex) cord. Be sure you get one with a 110v pin/prong configuration!


Post# 201028 , Reply# 11   4/3/2007 at 20:45 (6,204 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY)        

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The insulation is interesting, eh?

May I please request a picture of the drum?
TYVM- Thank you very much!


Post# 201029 , Reply# 12   4/3/2007 at 20:58 (6,204 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY)        

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oh and please ensure that provisions are made to attach the green gorunding conductor of the new flex cord to the mahcine.

If there is a grounding strap attaching the white/neutral wire terminal to the machine (therby grounding the machine through the white/neutral conductor as was the common practice on a 220v circuit), it is better to disconnect it when the machine is used on 110-120v.

Feel free to email personally if further help is wanted/needed.

Best regards,
Steve


Post# 201066 , Reply# 13   4/3/2007 at 23:15 (6,204 days old) by northwesty (Renton, WA)        
Thanks again the operation was a success

I did ground the green wire to the machine, and I don't see any grounding strap attaching the white/neutral wire terminal to the machine. I used a 12 gauge wire extension cord, its ratings are higher than the machines but I have already thrown the packaging away and I can't quite remember what they were. Of course I know it will take longer to dry things than if it was on 220 but it will be nice for a spare if there is some extra laundry. I ran it for some time and it seems to be working.

There is a picture of part of the drum anyway, in the other thread... There isn't any Polio light - but the Kenmore do have that.

If by chance anyone has a spare dial for this machine don't throw it away. I think I can salvage mine but the back - shaft of my dial is cracked. Thanks again for the concern and advice. I haven't got shocked yet on one of these and I try to be careful.


Post# 201070 , Reply# 14   4/3/2007 at 23:32 (6,204 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)        
White Dial

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Hi:

That white Bakelite was pretty fragile stuff, at least on Frigidaire ranges. We had a '49 40-inch range, and its knobs always gave trouble.

If you have all the pieces, I'd try Plastix plastic bonder, which you can get at Home Depot. It's a two-part kit, with a little bottle of surface prep stuff and a tube of adhesive. You clean the surface, brush on some prep stuff, then use the adhesive. Most things bond pretty darn well.


Post# 201158 , Reply# 15   4/4/2007 at 10:24 (6,203 days old) by mixfinder ()        
Early Dryer

In 1967, I bought a 1960, TOL GE washer and an original Hamilton dryer, from a teacher of mine for $25.00. The dryer took about 90 minutes to dry and the chamber was filled with steam. I thought there was something wrong with it and as soon as I could, I found a replacement, a Kenmore Frog Eye. It would dry a load in 35-40 minutes.
Kelly


Post# 201203 , Reply# 16   4/4/2007 at 17:07 (6,203 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!)        

gansky1's profile picture
That is the neatest dryer, Brian! Thanks for keeping us in the loop on it's progress. I've never used one of the early Hamilton dryers, but would love the steamy drying I'm sure.

Post# 201256 , Reply# 17   4/4/2007 at 21:41 (6,203 days old) by mayken4now (Panama City, Florida)        
Update

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Gyrafoam is currently working on his machine(s). We wish them a speedy recovery and a pair that will wash for a long time with no issues. Steve is a great person who knows a lot about how the Frigidaire of this vintage was complied.

Steve



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