Frigidaire FL help needed - motor will not run

I've cut meself badly on these machines, do be careful. If you do have to check the door interlock, be aware that there are three versions. If you get the "updated" version, you will have to take the entire machine (you did say it is an early model) apart.
I have found that I can reach the door interlock most easily (or with a minimum of difficulty to be truthful) when I do the following:
1) Tilt the machine back about 25� - if you can't, wedge something between the front panel and the drum to push it back. Careful, that silicon looks thicker than it is.
2) Loosen the two screws around the locking plate on the front, but don't take them out.
3) Reaching up from below, you can pull off one of the two wires to the switch. Reaching down from above, you can get the other one off.
4) Short them and you will have your answer. If it is the switch, door latch or interlock assembly do your best to figure out a solution without the update. That nightmare even involves a new counterweight. If it is just the door latch, both versions are freely available, you just have to match the pictures.

If it turns out to be the motor brushes, it is not true that they can not be replaced. A quick google will give you a few links where they can be bought. Here, too, there are variations and you will need to know what they look like.

Oh, and that non-replaceable fuse I have replaced. Electrolux and Frigidaire are really good at saying this, that and the other thing is non-replaceable. But just about everything in these machines can be replaced if you know where to look.

Good luck.
Oh, if you are still stuck, I have a copy of the diagnostics for the 1997-early 2000 series and will be happy to send them on to you.
Keven


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Post# 208865 5/7/2007 at 22:12 (6,192 days old) by peterh770 (Marietta, GA)
Checkrate/Likes A coworker has an early Kenmore/Frigidaire FL washer. The motor will not run. According to the wiring diagram and troubleshooting info that came with the machine, it appears to be a problem with the timer switch, the door lock or the dispenser drawer switch. I'm not getting any readings from the motor control board (bottom, rear, left side fo the machine). How do you get to the door lock? Do you just reach in from the top, shoving the tub assembly to the side? The front panel looks near impossible to remove with the 8 screws all on the inside of the cabinet holding it on and the door boot. Which timer switch do you test, and how do you get to it? Like removing the front panel, I don't see how to get to the timer assembly and the tangle of wires to test it. Any advice is greatly appreciated...

Post# 208914 , Reply# 1 5/8/2007 at 08:22 (6,192 days old) by coldspot66 (Plymouth, Mass)
Checkrate/Likes There is a fuse on the motor control board, if no continuity, then replace the board.The fuse is not a replacable item. The tech sheet also tells you to check continuity of the motor windings. If the door locks, and the door lock light is on, then the door lock mechanism is good. If you get fill and drain and NO drum movement, it's usually the motor control board. Hope this helps!

Post# 208926 , Reply# 2 5/8/2007 at 08:55 (6,191 days old) by peterh770 (Marietta, GA)
Checkrate/Likes The fuse gives continuity. Unless I didn't read far enough, the sheet said nothing about checking the motor windings. It would have been easy enough to check to see if the door is locked, but I didn't. DOH!!!

Post# 208932 , Reply# 3 5/8/2007 at 09:08 (6,191 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains)
Checkrate/Likes *Peter,* I've cut meself badly on these machines, do be careful. If you do have to check the door interlock, be aware that there are three versions. If you get the "updated" version, you will have to take the entire machine (you did say it is an early model) apart. I have found that I can reach the door interlock most easily (or with a minimum of difficulty to be truthful) when I do the following: 1) Tilt the machine back about 25� - if you can't, wedge something between the front panel and the drum to push it back. Careful, that silicon looks thicker than it is. 2) Loosen the two screws around the locking plate on the front, but don't take them out. 3) Reaching up from below, you can pull off one of the two wires to the switch. Reaching down from above, you can get the other one off. 4) Short them and you will have your answer. If it is the switch, door latch or interlock assembly do your best to figure out a solution without the update. That nightmare even involves a new counterweight. If it is just the door latch, both versions are freely available, you just have to match the pictures. If it turns out to be the motor brushes, it is not true that they can not be replaced. A quick google will give you a few links where they can be bought. Here, too, there are variations and you will need to know what they look like. Oh, and that non-replaceable fuse I have replaced. Electrolux and Frigidaire are really good at saying this, that and the other thing is non-replaceable. But just about everything in these machines can be replaced if you know where to look. Good luck. Oh, if you are still stuck, I have a copy of the diagnostics for the 1997-early 2000 series and will be happy to send them on to you. Keven

Post# 208944 , Reply# 4 5/8/2007 at 09:58 (6,191 days old) by peterh770 (Marietta, GA)
Checkrate/Likes Kevin, Thanks so much for your tips. The door lock has 3 different wire harness connectors on it. One is obviously power with black and white wires. Another is close by and I believe has at least red and blue/white wires amongst others. Then there is a third one, further down from the top. All three harnesses were plugged in securely. Why it didn't dawn on me to close the door, start the machine and see if the door could be opened is beyond me! (Actually not, yesterday was not a good day...) Are the diagnostics different that those offered on the 2 wiring diagram sheets found inside the machine? -ph

Post# 208982 , Reply# 5 5/8/2007 at 13:22 (6,191 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains)
Checkrate/Likes *Peter,* Hmm, thank goodness for big brother, now if you'd just move out of my line of vision...yup, they're the same... :-))) If you have the two separate documents, then yes, I imagine one of them not only lists the programs but also the logic to follow in tracking down which interlock or component is involved in which failure.

Post# 209014 , Reply# 6 5/8/2007 at 16:57 (6,191 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains)
Checkrate/Likes *three wiring harnesses* Peter, I dug this out of my notes...this man's answer wouldn't work for my too big hands, but might for you: See link. CLICK HERE TO GO TO panthera's LINK

Post# 210041 , Reply# 7 5/14/2007 at 15:22 (6,185 days old) by peterh770 (Marietta, GA)
Checkrate/Likes Kevin, thanks for that link! Great forum over there... I had my coworker start the washer and the door does lock. But I guess there could still be a problem with it? I'm leaning to the motor control board...