Thread Number: 12584
Whirlpool Duet WFW9200SQ
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Post# 220112   7/2/2007 at 17:48 (6,140 days old) by washertalk ()        

I stayed with a friend recently who had the Duet 9100 washer and matching electric dryer, the first Duets that came out like 4 years ago. I had never used or, shamefully I say this, knew much about FLrs. I had a chance to use them several times during 3 weeks I stayed and was sold. I checked them out, read up and was really impressed.

They are awesome, well the washer was. I didn't care for the dryer which I think is nothing more than a 27", front filter whirlpool with a different front.
I know that they aren't as showy as some here would like and for my purposes they don't come in Harvest Gold. Although, my friends had baby blue trim on the front of theres which at first I thought was the protective film that Whirlpool puts on their control panels at the factory and some people "forget" to remove. No it actually was baby blue which was good. And they still make a model trimmed in blue though it has some chrome mixed in.
Anyway, blah blah, blah. Energy saving, uses like 9 gallons for a whole wash cycle... Less electric to operate, very quiet, can wash more than a top loader. It is so cool to watch, I mean it is like an amusement park in there. And the clothes actually come out clean.
So I am thinking of selling my top load KM MOL 3 speed washer which I have had since 2000 and love and getting a new (over priced) WFW9200SQ. They are like $900. I am wondering if anyone else has this model. I believe it is the 9400 with a new front.






Post# 220278 , Reply# 1   7/3/2007 at 11:19 (6,139 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

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I have the GHW9300PW. I don't know how the model numbers work with Duets but would imagine they are mechanically the same with maybe some different cycle features. Mine looks like the first Duet models with pointer knob for cycle selection and green and pink buttons for start & stop.

So far I'm happy with the machine and it gets things cleaner than my TL Amana ever could. I agree on the dryer, it's just your normal dryer with a Duet front but it's a far better machine than my old Amana rattle trap.

A lot of people on this site are recommending Frigidaire FL's now. For a while, all you saw was bad PR here for those but they have apparently resolved the bad bearing issues and these machines have become much more reliable. I like the appearance of the large Frigidaires but the dryer capacity is significantly smaller than the Duet's. They are worth looking into since they cost significantly less than a Duet pair.

What I really like about my Duet is that it still has a clear window so I can see what's happening inside. The Kenmores and newer models of the Duets have a more smoked window that you can't see through very well. What's the fun in that?

If you find a good deal on a Duet, go for it. I got mine super cheap on clearance at Lowe's and saved almost $500 on the washer. If you want pedestals, that's where they nail you and I ended up paying $300 more for the 10" pedestals that don't even offer a drawer, but it was well worth it to save all of that stooping. The added height will make folding laundry on top of the pair difficult for anyone under 6' tall, but most of the time I do my folding somewhere else anyway.


Post# 220303 , Reply# 2   7/3/2007 at 13:15 (6,139 days old) by passatdoc (Orange County, California)        
clear vs. dark lenses

I have a Frigidaire 2140 with a dark lens. I was at Lowes yesterday and they had the 2940 in stock with a clear lens. I imagine one could order the clear lens as a spare part and install it in the door of a 2140. Earlier, I posted information on how to remove the lens from a 2140 (and leave it lens-less), but what would be nice is to have a clear lens. I will check with our local hardware store that specializes in appliance parts to see if they can order the clear lens part.

Post# 220679 , Reply# 3   7/4/2007 at 16:04 (6,138 days old) by washertalk ()        

Thanks for the insight. that's great getting a deal at Lowes. I too am considering Lowes. My first choice was a dealer on Ebay but because of shipping, not so much.

I am going to keep my near BOL 2000 electric super capacity KM dryer. It is like new. I only use it like 1/2 the time and has always done a great job. I don't need a matched set. I wish it had the side swing door though.

As far as pedestal I would prefer to have it much higher than the 10" or 15" extension that they sell. And yes they can be expensive if bought from retailers. I have seen some on Ebay that go from $10 to $130 plus shipping. I think I would much prefer it at almost counter top heigth or maybe a bit lower. I will have to build my own.

Thanks again for the advice.

I hope the weather is treating you well in SanFrancisco. Beautiful city.


Post# 220856 , Reply# 4   7/5/2007 at 13:17 (6,137 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

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Eric, it's pretty hot here and most people in this area don't have A/C since temps are generally moderate most of the summer. We'll survive but it's a little uncomfortable for sleeping. The fog has returned to the coast and should be spreading inland by tonight so the cooling trend is underway.

One thing to remember about the Duet washer is that the door is not reversible. I had to switch the positions of my washer and dryer due to this, and now the dryer is next to the laundry sink instead of the washer, but it's no big deal. I had to buy longer supply hoses for the washer and had to change out the gas supply pipe for the dryer and install a shorter one, but neither of those things were a big deal either.

I saw a couple of Duet 9150 series (I think) washers at a place called "Stupid Prices" in the Sacramento area recently. These stores carry a lot of big ticket items from Costco and other large retailers. Returns, floor models, overstock, etc. They don't have too many locations nationally but if you find one near you, it might be worth the drive to save big on a Duet. I think the washers I saw were about 1/2 the normal price and they looked identical to my model, although they didn't offer the "Quick Wash" cycle.

Ralph


Post# 221270 , Reply# 5   7/7/2007 at 20:23 (6,135 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

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Erik,

Next time you're over at your friends' place ask them to set the Duet for self cleaning cycle. I just did it for the first time today and it filled to just below the tub lip and then eventually went into white water mode. Fun to watch.

Ralph


Post# 221274 , Reply# 6   7/7/2007 at 20:29 (6,135 days old) by appnut (TX)        

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Ralph, the 9150 doesn't have supplemental heater.

Post# 221711 , Reply# 7   7/9/2007 at 23:16 (6,133 days old) by washertalk ()        

Also, the 9150 doesn't have the self cleaning feature.
After reading about this feature on line I thought, I could try it out on theres. It would be kewl because it has a higher water level and who knows what else it does. So I put in the bleach and I went to find the cycle, There was none. lol.
The 9100/9150 looks the same as a 9400 except the 9400 has 3 extra cycles located at the bottom of the center cycle dial. one is the "clean washer" cycle, one is an "official" wool cycle or something and I don't know what the other is. Maybe "short cycle" Where as on the 9150 it is just open space there. (they knew years before they would add those cycles!! the designers just wanted to taunt us and tease us for a few years. Make us go without! Make us wish for a cycle to wash all of our delicate wool items, - a wool cycle! (wicked laugh))
The 9400 also has like 16 water temperature selections with a built-in heater (plain warm, hotish warm, kinda warm, pee in your pants warm, coldish warm, generic cold, refrigerated cold, damn cold, freeze your balls cold, "hot", sizzling hot, boiling hot, cook a stew hot, sexy hot guy hot, scald your butt hot, and bacon grease splatter hot.) The 9150 had 3.

So I had to quickly flush out the bleach, which was fun.

I am pretty sure I am going to get the Duet. I'm excited. And yes it has a clean washer cycle. Yow-Yow


Post# 221733 , Reply# 8   7/10/2007 at 00:38 (6,133 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!)        

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Whirlpool has always offered two models of the Duet washer and dryer since it's introduction. Your friend's model didn't have the water heater and a few other cycle options, but the next step up would have them. The same is true today, but for cosmetic and a few cycle names & tweaks, they are still pretty much the same overall. I've had my Duet - no heater and no self-cleaning cycle for around four years and I love it. It sounds as though they are capitalizing on the Neptune-mold hysteria, but that's why they're in business - to make money. I don't have that cycle and I leave the door slightly ajar after using (something you cannot do with many of the washers with spring-hinged doors, i.e. LG) and I've never had any smells, mold or mildew, etc. The biggest surprise I've found in my door boot is a coin now and then. It rarely needs to be wiped out. The dispensers on these machines are truly self-cleaning, I don't think I've ever removed mine - other than to snoop - but I've never HAD to clean it for any reason, it still looks like new after four years.

I'm sure you'll be very happy with whatever model you choose - they are fantastic washers and after having a good performing Frigidaire and this Duet, I would pick the Duet any day.


Post# 221736 , Reply# 9   7/10/2007 at 02:34 (6,133 days old) by tumbler ()        
Duets

The Duet has actually been around since about 2000. I bought a 9460 (a Sears model number) and matching dryer a little over a year ago, and they're the best machines I've ever owned. The washer has the heater and all the cycles, but no "self-clean" feature-they only added it this year (though the Duet 'Sport' has always had it. I don't miss it, and consider it unnecessary. If you want to freshen up the machine, just put a tablespoon or two of Clorox in the detergent bay and run it on "Rinse & Spin." The dryer is not just a gussied-up standard dryer-take a good look at the drum. It's HUGE!

Post# 221782 , Reply# 10   7/10/2007 at 10:24 (6,132 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

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Hey Bob you stud, thanks for the info on the difference between my model and a 9150. I didn't realize the machines were that different. I guess I got lucky with mine having the extras, but I would have been happy with a 9150 if that's what Lowe's was selling at the time. I always leave the door on mine slightly open and only snap it closed if I'm going to be passing by it a lot or have company and am using the top of the laundry pair as a bar.

Erik, my washer doesn't have a designated cycle on the dial for "clean washer" but instead the owner's manual instructs you to make certain key selections on the panel and then press the "extra rinse" button 4 times to get the cycle started. So your friends' machine might have this option. It appears you have access to the owner's manual so check it out. Then again, if you're going to make the leap and buy a Duet, you'll be able to enjoy the cleaning cycle on your own machine.

Be sure to report back after you get your washer and let us know how you like it.

Ralph


Post# 222133 , Reply# 11   7/12/2007 at 07:25 (6,130 days old) by jimtew ()        
Duet 9200

I did all of the typical Internet research before replacing my twelve year old Sears top loading washer and matching dryer. I was tired of a dryer that took twice as long as the washer to complete a cycle---laundry room backup. I had heard all sorts of rumors about the front loaders not getting clothes clean, bad smelling clothes, mold, mildew, repair issues and so on.

After narrowing it down to LG, Whirlpool and Bosch, I went with the Whirlpool Duet ™ washer and dryer in the 9200 series. In that brand we are talking a level below the top price point. I am confident that Bosch and LG make fine machines. LG Electronics, a South Korean company has been making front loading washers for decades. Front loaders are typical in the rest of the world---only in America do we see so many top loaders. Remember: the very first automatic washers were front loaders.

The more you pay, the more cycles and features you get. There is a point of diminishing returns not to mention the fact that more gadgets can mean more things to go wrong. One name manufacturer has a dispenser system which you fill with detergent and bleach and it dispenses the stuff through multiple loads. A technician who services that brand informed me that the feature is---from a repair call perspective---a weak link in an otherwise fine piece of equipment.

After decades of doing so, we all think we know how to wash clothes. The most important thing I can recommend is to READ THE OPERATORS MANUAL! Secondly, do some research and if the sales person doesn’t seem to know what he is talking about, go somewhere else. Ask whoever you buy from if they actually set up the machines or just drop them off in your laundry room. If they don’t level the machines, hand them a level and make sure they do so, which leads me to vibration.

These machines spin at a very high RPM; 1,000 RPM is very typical while the top of the line LG machines (Tromm) spin at 1,320 which is why the clothes come out nearly dry and dry so quickly in the dryer. Mounted on a concrete floor or modern trussed floor, leveled, spaced a couple of inches apart and without the pedestals, the vibration during the spin cycle will not be an issue---these machines are remarkably quiet. Each variable you add will increase vibration. On solid flooring even with the pedestals if all else is equal, the noise and vibration factor should still be less than typical top loaders. However, on wood flooring, on a upper story in an older structure with an unbalanced load, on pedestals, unleveled and too close together---the darn thing is going too shake the house. Several manufacturers make machines specifically for upper stories with lower spin speeds.

HE detergent is not an option---it is a mandate! Simply using less regular detergent doesn’t work. In fact, if you read the HE detergent label it indicates that you should use barely a quarter to a third of a cap for normal loads. A friend who services appliances told me to use even less than the detergent maker recommends. More detergent will not get your clothes cleaner in a front loader. Suds from conventional detergents will ultimately screw up the machine, not get your clothes clean and drastically extend the wash cycle and your energy usage because the machine has to enter a SUD cycle to get rid of the excess suds. If you use the minimum recommended detergent for most loads the HE is not more expensive than convention detergent of the same brand---it may well end up being less expensive. Cheer™, Gain™ and Tide™ are all available in HE and more are being added.

Many service techs recommend powdered HE detergent over the liquids and claim that powders don’t leave the film that most liquids do---which forms a basis for mold growth. I can’t personally attest to it but it seems to make some sense. If you use powder, you can add Borateam™ or Oxyclean™ to the dispenser with the powdered detergent. If you stick with the liquids, any powdered additives should be placed in the bottom of the drum before adding the clothes.

Throw away your fabric softener! It gunks up machines worse than any other additive---it has wax in it for gosh sake! It makes towels less absorbent. It leaves a film on the outer drum that you can’ get to to clean. If you have hard water, consider buying Calgon™ Water Softener available in the supermarket and adding it to the rinse water. You might also consider adding some 20 Mule Team Borax™ or Borateam™ either with the detergent if you use a powder or in the bottom of the drum if you use a liquid detergent.

Front loaders have to seal completely or the water will leak out---unlike top loaders. That means that the interior stays damp after you close the door. Leaving the door ajar for an hour or after you remove the load will help it dry out completely---leaving it cracked open all the time makes even more sense. Consider keeping a spray bottle of something like Sam’s Club’s OdoBan™ and a rag next to the washer and wipe off the seal periodically---to include underneath and the front lip which faces inward. If your machine has a machine cleaning cycle, run it as recommended. The newer machines tend to have this cycle and it specifically jets water around and under the seal to clean and sanitize it thoroughly.

If you start getting excessively long wash cycles or fault codes, it is possible that someone didn’t empty their pockets and something is clogging the pump filter which also tend to preclude complete drainage and add to the potential mold and mildew issue. If you are going to spend two to three grand for a washer dryer pair, seriously consider a service contract---$120/unit for five years in my case but you can often negotiate these down with the salesman.

The average service call to clean out that filter is $115. If you are handy and confident, you can unplug the machine, remove three torq or hex screws on a bottom panel and do this task in a couple of minutes. I would not buy any brand in which this pump filter is not “reasonably” accessible. If you have a service contract, then they will handle the task but you may have a deductible.

Very cold water doesn’t wash clothes very well; at 60 degrees Fahrenheit and below, detergents just don’t emulsify as they should. Many front loaders have an internal water heater so that even if you select cold wash, it will heat the water just enough to make it work with detergent.

The typical front loader uses a quarter of the water that a top loader does. If you are using cold water to save money, you’ve already save 75% of the cost of heating water for a load. Warm water will always wash better than cold.

Mold and mildew: if you leave a wet load of clothes in a front loader overnight or all day while you are at work, you are asking for mildew problems. It’s a sealed container; unless the clothes have been sterilized or at least sanitized, the drum---and clothes---will grow mold and mildew. Use the delayed wash feature available on many machines---most will tell approximately how long the cycle will take---so that the wash cycle ends right before you leave the house or come home.

Follow the recommendations in the manual for proper loading and mixing of items. Put your baby socks and thongs in mesh bags---they end up in the pump filter too easily. As with any washer, full loads are preferable but front loaders don’t typically handle very small loads as well as top loaders. If you need to do a small load, consider throwing in a couple of those designer towels that have been hanging in the bathroom for who knows how long. If your family insists on throwing their wet towels on the floor or shoving them in the bottom of a hamper, you are going to start with mold and mildew problems. Molds, yeasts and mildews are very hard to get rid of once they start to grow. Short of very hot water and chorine bleach, you are fighting a lost cause.

Are front loaders “harder” on clothes than top loader/agitator machines? The opposite should be true. One measure of how much of a beating your laundry is taking is the amount of lint that collects in the dryer lint filter when you wash a relatively new, predominantly cotton item. Occasionally I buy 100% cotton rags (terry) to use around the house and in the garage. I always wash them thoroughly before I use them to get all of the starch and chemicals out. Two dozen of these relatively low end, imported rags used to throw of so much lint after a full cycle in my top loader that I had to clean the lint filter several times during the initial drying cycle. The first time I did a load of new rags in the front loader I was astounded at how little lint buildup there was.

I used to be in the hospital bedding and apparel business and have visited numerous fabric mills---you don’t even want to know what it takes, chemical wise, to produce a sheet, towel or item of apparel. You really want to get that stuff out of the fabric before it touches your body.

I digress---back to the smelly towels and such. You can try Oxyclean™, OdoBan ™ or Borateam™---or all three---but on fancy, designer towels you probably won’t be willing to risk either Chlorine bleach or super heated water. Drying them occasionally outside in the bright sun helps. Using soft water or a liquid softener (Calgon ™) may help. Getting all of the fabric softener residue out of the towels might help. Drying them completely is essential, particularly with heavy towels. If your towels are smelly indicating the existence of mold, yeast or mildew, you may not notice it when you take them out of the dryer but probably will the first time you use them and get them damp. It is easier to prevent the mold and such than it is to eliminate it. F you’ve already got it, it will probably take several cycles to get rid of it.

Another approach might be to explain to family and guests that the designer towels are just for show. Go to Costco™ or Sam’s™ and buy pure white, hotel grade towels, bathmats and washcloths. They’re really not expensive---and they are made to be washed in institutional laundries at very high temperature with both peroxide and chlorine based bleaches a high concentrations. Run them through the washer on the highest temperature possible, often called a sanitize setting.

Washer technology had improved dramatically in the last decade---dryer technology really hasn’t changed much. If you have gas, consider using it instead of electric; the dryers cost fifty to a hundred dollars more but in many---not all---parts of the country gas is cheaper than electricity so you will recoup the difference fairly quickly. You should be able to get information from your utility company, from a local appliance service or on line regarding the cost differential. If you live in an area where electricity is produced using coal, than electric may be break even or even cheaper. If you live in the southwest or Texas, natural gas is generally more cost effective.

A couple of companies make hybrids---top loading without the agitator---but there seem to be issues with those machines either in design---or in the fact that people don’t know how to use them.

In summary, assuming you can reeducate your family, the most important things you can do to prevent mold and mildew in a front loader and the resulting smelly clothes are:

Read the manual.
Leave the door ajar long enough for the drum to air out.
Use HE detergent only.
Stop using fabric softener.
Run the machine cleaning cycle as recommended. If your machine doesn’t have one, run a regular cycle with hot water and bleach---no detergent---periodically, at least once a month or more often if you do a lot of laundry.
Don’t leave wet clothes in the washer all day or all night.
Follow the loading recommendations.
If you have hard water and don’t want to/can’t install a water softener try using Calgon ™, Borateam™ or even baking soda in the wash water.
Vinegar (white, pretty cheap by the gallon) can be an effective fungicide but it’s going to take more than a tablespoon; try it instead of softener in the rinse cycle.

Haven’t tried the idea of using some powdered, enzyme based dishwashing detergent to clean the front loading washer but it makes sense. I called my friend who services all sorts of appliances and he indicated that he even recommends it even though the manual doesn’t. There is also a commercial product available on line at www.smellywasher.com... that many repair techs seem to endorse.

By the way, if you prefer scent free HE detergent I know Tide has one---not sure who else does.

We love our Whirlpool Duet™ front loader washer and dryer. Laundry room backup is a thing of the past. Comforters that used to take two hours to dry are dry in under thirty minutes. The clothes are really clean. Our electric bill has gone down. There is less lint in the dryer vent---because the clothes aren’t getting as beat up as they did by that center agitator on a conventional top loader. They are both remarkably quiet but making the switch requires some reeducation.

When I read complaints from people who won’t read the manual, won’t allow the drum to dry after each use, refuse to use the right detergent and can’t be bothered to perform a few seconds of preventative cleaning and maintenance, I throw up my hands in frustration. If that is you---don’t buy a front loader!



Post# 222287 , Reply# 12   7/13/2007 at 04:35 (6,130 days old) by mrx ()        
1000 RPM isn't very fast thesedays!

1000RPM would be considered low end spinning here.
TOL machines in this part of the world offer 1600RPM+


Post# 223298 , Reply# 13   7/17/2007 at 11:13 (6,125 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

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I agree with Jimtew that front loaders are more refined machines that require some extra care in use and maintenance. Just like a finer car, you need to be prepared to take some extra steps to insure optimum performance and longevity.

Ideally, the arrangement I wish I could have would be my big Duet for the daily driver, but a solid old center dial Maytag for the truly dirty jobs like shop rags (at one time my old Westy Laundromat was used for that sort of thing) etc that I'd rather not subject the Duet to. She's for sure my prima donna and I'm treating her appropriately. I don't want to run anything through her that might gum up the works. From what I've read, it seems the drain pumps are the weak link in the Duet's design so I always keep that in mind.


Post# 223463 , Reply# 14   7/17/2007 at 23:01 (6,125 days old) by washertalk ()        
Something may be arriving ....

in my neighborhood very soon.. Could it be. I will keep my fingers crossed. And camera ready... I'm getting exci-ted.
I just hope it's for me.



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