Thread Number: 15003
condenser dryer question
[Down to Last]

automaticwasher.org's exclusive eBay Watch:
scroll >>> for more items --- [As an eBay Partner, eBay may compensate automaticwasher.org if you make a purchase using any link to eBay on this page]
Post# 253863   12/13/2007 at 13:37 (5,972 days old) by vacuumfreeeke ()        

The guy who is selling me is Edgestar CW1200 all in one portable said that you don't need to leave the machine hooked up to the sink during the dry cycle. I have read information to the contrary and want to be sure before I start to use the machine. He said that there is a tank that the condensed water goes into and it must be emptied with each use. I'll take posession of the machine sometime on Monday or early next week, so I want to be able to use it right.

I read that concdenser dryers need to be hooked up to cold water to do their job, but this guy told me the opposite.

What's the truth?

Thanks





Post# 253866 , Reply# 1   12/13/2007 at 13:51 (5,971 days old) by dj-gabriele ()        

Most condenser dryer use room air as the cold part of the condensing system and collect the moisture in a tank that gets empited after the cycle. Some use a water condensor (like washer-dryers in Europe) and have a cold water connection and waste water pipe. Hoover as an example has both systems.

Post# 253867 , Reply# 2   12/13/2007 at 13:56 (5,971 days old) by dj-gabriele ()        

Is this your machine?
If so I believe it's a water codensing one and in this case you need to leave the water running during the drying phase as it is used to condense the steam


CLICK HERE TO GO TO dj-gabriele's LINK


Post# 253879 , Reply# 3   12/13/2007 at 14:41 (5,971 days old) by vacuumfreeeke ()        
yes

That is the model I will be getting. I wish I had a way to know for sure... the manual written by people who barely know English isn't clear. Which method is better just out of curiosity, or are they identical in performance? Thanks!

Post# 253882 , Reply# 4   12/13/2007 at 14:42 (5,971 days old) by vacuumfreeeke ()        
and...

If it has a tank that needs emptied does that mean that it is the air kind? I'd assume that the ones that require cold water would be able to drain in the sink... does that make sense?

Post# 253891 , Reply# 5   12/13/2007 at 15:08 (5,971 days old) by launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        

launderess's profile picture
Water cooled systems mean one has to located the machine near a source of cold water. No problem for washer dryer combinations but if you wish to put your dryer elsewhere than a laundry area, and or do not have two cold water connections, there can be some problems. As they require water, cold water units may not be the best solution for those trying to save on water bills/use. At school, our home economics lab had a water cooled condenser dryer (full sized, forget by whom), and teacher often complained about having to use it during water shortages.



Post# 253892 , Reply# 6   12/13/2007 at 15:12 (5,971 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY)        

toggleswitch's profile picture
Air-cooled condensers heat the room up fiercely.

Nice if your can line dry in summer and harvest the heat in winter.

But do you really wnat that heat thrown into the room in summer in Florida?


Post# 253909 , Reply# 7   12/13/2007 at 15:54 (5,971 days old) by dj-gabriele ()        

I bet that this washer-dryer does the condensing with water, like standard European machines, so the waste water will go down the same pipe as the wash water and it won't heat the room. The machine should have cold or cold and hot fill and a drain pipe, no waste/condensed water tank to empty as it will go down the drain.

Why don't you call the tech service and ask them?
Anyway if I were you I'd get a model that spins at least at 1200rpm, it will speed up drying time and you'll save on energy.


Post# 253926 , Reply# 8   12/13/2007 at 16:42 (5,971 days old) by vacuumfreeeke ()        
oh boy!

I called Edgestar. The rep had me on hold for 15 minutes only to come back and tell me that only their dishwashers are portable and the washer/dryers must be permanently installed. I told him that they sell casters and sink adapters right on their website. He put me on hold for another 10 minutes and came back to say that yes indeed I could use it as a portable. I told him I already knew that and repeated my question... Does the unit have to be hooked up to the sink while drying? He didn't know and put me on hold again. He said that the tech told him it does need to be hooked up to the cold water while drying. Then I asked if the unit had a tank to empty the condensed water into or if it went into the sink. The rep put me on hold yet again and confirmed with a tech that it does not have a tank and drains into the sink.

The guy selling it said it does have a tank and that water needn't be used during the drying cycle. I don't think I will ever find out the right answer. At least the guy spoke English... not that I benefited from it!


Post# 253927 , Reply# 9   12/13/2007 at 16:46 (5,971 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY)        

toggleswitch's profile picture
~Most condenser dryers use room air as the cold part of the condensing system.....

~I bet that this washer-dryer does the condensing with water, like standard European machines...


So machines that are dryers "only" use air as the condensing medium and combos (washers & dryers in one tub) use water as the condensing medium in Europe?


Post# 253929 , Reply# 10   12/13/2007 at 17:00 (5,971 days old) by dj-gabriele ()        

Exactly!

But there are exceptions: as I said Hoover (Candy) makes a water condensor dryer that dumps waste water in the drain with a pipe and Smeg used to make a washer-dryer with a water-less condensor that used room air as cold heat sink.
IMHO heat pump dryers are the best, then come vented dryers and combos because they dry faster and use a little less energy than condensing systems.


Post# 253930 , Reply# 11   12/13/2007 at 17:00 (5,971 days old) by logixx (Germany)        

logixx's profile picture
I'm pretty sure EdgeStar is right on this one. Never heard of a washer/dryer that stores its own condensed water.

Besides our washer and dryer, we also have a W/D combo (not by EdgeStar) at home and it operates just like the EdgeStar rep said: it consumes cold water throughout the drying cycle and drains it through drain hose.


Post# 253935 , Reply# 12   12/13/2007 at 17:46 (5,971 days old) by appnut (TX)        

appnut's profile picture
I'm not seeing what the problem is here. What's the big deal about not leaving the water on during the dry cycle? You know how ignorant most typical appliance users are. I'd do what the instructions tell you to do.

Post# 253941 , Reply# 13   12/13/2007 at 18:00 (5,971 days old) by vacuumfreeeke ()        
well...

The instructions do not say... if they do, I couldn't find it! Some require using the water and some do not. I just want to do the right thing so I don't hurt the machine and so that it performs as well as it can!

Post# 253964 , Reply# 14   12/13/2007 at 20:35 (5,971 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY)        

toggleswitch's profile picture
~What's the big deal about not leaving the water on during the dry cycle?

When a condenser dryer uses water as the cooling/condensing medium, the water needs to be on or no drying will occur!

If you have a portable combo with a uni-couple faucet connection, for example, you'll end up blocking your sink for HOURS!!!!! In a narrow galley kitchen (say as found in NYC) this may prevent you from doing ANYTHING in the kitchen except perhaps for ordering take-out(take-away) or making reservations!

:-)


Post# 254153 , Reply# 15   12/14/2007 at 15:22 (5,970 days old) by foraloysius (Leeuwarden, Friesland, the Netherlands)        

foraloysius's profile picture
These washer/dryer combos come in vented versions and in condenser ones that need to be hooked up to cold (!) water when it's drying. There are no washer/dryer combos with a container simply there is no space in these machines for such a big container. A condensing system that uses air for the condensor is not possible either in these machines, an air cooled condensor takes up way too much space too.

Louis


Post# 254161 , Reply# 16   12/14/2007 at 16:15 (5,970 days old) by selectomatic ()        
On page 21 of the Owner's Manual, in the Troubleshooting

Problem: Washer does not dry
Possible Cause and Remedy (#3): Is the water turned on? The dryer uses cold water during the dry cycle to create the condensation process. Is the unit connected to cold water?


Post# 254776 , Reply# 17   12/17/2007 at 18:06 (5,967 days old) by xyz ()        

OK you guys, a while back I posted a thread that got no response as I recall about an all-in-one washer/dryer combo mini sized unit made by an Italian company. The brand of the unit is "Equator." OK, I hooked up my water supply (cold) and my solnoids allowed water to fill the tub (front loader with window) and it washed just fine. I, before starting the wash cycle assumed and I had to assume because I had no owners manual on this machine, that I had to set the dry timer at the same time that I set my wash timer. So I did. I set the wash on what Equator calls "ENHANCED" which I assumed once again that this was thier word for extended wash. Well, the machine washed, dumped the water just fine and went through 3 rinses as I recall. The machine had 3 rinses much like my 90's model Maytag Neptune. After the wash was complete, I turned off my water supply since I was outside on my patio checking this unit out and the supply hoses I had used were leaky and I was making a wet mess of my patio with bad connection from my waterhose to units supply hose. Mind you that the unit had no leaks, only my bad connection. So now the machine goes into it's dry function which I find to be rather cool since this is the 1st machine I have ever seen like this. The dryer timer had 120 minutes setting capability but I only set it for 60 minutes since I only had a few articles in the machine. Well, after the 60 minutes of dry time had gone through, I open the door to only find very damp clothes and alot of condensation of water on the plastic door's window. So I run it another 60 minutes, now we are at 120 minute total. Same outcome. Damp clothes. Warm clothes but far from dry. I, out of sheer curiosity, open the top of the machine and see what the heater looks like and it is looking just like it should. No restrictions for the heat to be making it from blower to inside of machine. So can anyone tell me why my clothes didn't dry after 120 minutes keeping in mind that there was no water turned onto this machine during dry cycle because I turned it off after wash completed. Please help. I would love to make this a machine to carry camping where I have 110 hookups on campsite. Oh, I did forget to tell ya that wash and dry are 110 operated. kinda figured that anyone who was familiar with this unit would already know that.

Post# 254796 , Reply# 18   12/17/2007 at 18:49 (5,967 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY)        

toggleswitch's profile picture
as stated above W/D combos are either

1- vented
2- condensers using water to dry.

As stated above is yours is UNVENTED
it needs COLD water to dry.
Items will still be "Dewy" at the end of the cycle. In the open air they will become fully dry, quickly.

If VENTED
It may have a clogged filter.
It may be in a closed or high humidty-space. If possible, vent the warm, moist air away from the machine and certainly away form any air intakes. Open a window if the room in which it it located is small.


Did the machine reach full spin speed?
Did the artcicles of clothing comprising that load fall away from the tub/cylinder/drum wall early in the drying process process?

It may simply be that on 120v it needs longer than 2 hours to dry.
Remeber that a washer load in a compo is actually TWO dryer loads, usually. If overfilled the machine will take a long time to dry, dry unevenly and wrinkle your clothing to heck!

I had an Italian-made Ccomb-o-matic washer/dryer back in the early 80's and it does take getting used to! My instrutions recommended fabric softener to ensure the clothing fell off the tub walls to ensure good drying!

Hope this helps.


Post# 254887 , Reply# 19   12/18/2007 at 04:47 (5,967 days old) by dj-gabriele ()        

Equator machine are water condensor so they need cold water turned on whenever they're running.

Post# 256469 , Reply# 20   12/27/2007 at 11:37 (5,958 days old) by xyz ()        

I tried the Equator with the cold water left turned on to it with same results. It is unvented. I scrapped the piece of shit out to an old man who hauls tin. Maybe it's in a better place by now. I like d the machine but right before I scrapped it, it developed a timer problem in the wash cycle. It seems that every time I used the machne it would have a mind of it's own. Like it developed a new problem between every wash.

Post# 256507 , Reply# 21   12/27/2007 at 17:36 (5,957 days old) by launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        

launderess's profile picture
You did not say what type of laundry you were drying,nor how full the machine was.


1. Heavy cottons and linen fabrics will take longer to dry then man made fibers. Especially with the low heat and air flow of 110v dryers. Unless the final spin is in excess of 1200rpms, count on one, to perhaps two hours to dry a "full" load.

2. Being as the above may, as you were already told, combination washer/dryer units are NOT the best dryers simply because of their design. Dryers normally have much larger drums than front loading washing machines of the same rated capacity, simply because larger drums provide for the air flow and movement required for heat and air to get at the laundry, fluff it and evaporate the moisture. With combination units, one either has to load the unit half or less full when using automatich "wash and dry", or take half or more of the laundry out of the machine before starting the drying process. If the machine is over loaded you will be drying items for hours and probably not even then get them totally dry.

3. Your post above is confusing, as you state the water was turned off, then you say you tried with the water on. Equator only made combination W&D units which used cold water (unvented), so you need to have water running into the machine. Keep in mind the unit requires "COLD" water, the colder the better as the difference in temperature between the hot air coming from the dryer, against the cold water is what causes the condensation which dries the laundry. If your area's cold water is above 86F, as it can be in some areas of the United States, during warmer times of the year and or warm weather, then drying times are going to be longer because you are actually using luke-warm to tepid water instead of cold.

All and all combination units are not the best thing since sliced bread they are promoted to be. Even in Europe, most consumer rating/guides suggest consumers if at all possible try for separate washers and dryers, and that is with 220v power heating the dryer.

Equator units have been plauged with problems for years now, though earlier models seemed to do their jobs reasonably well.

L.


Post# 256582 , Reply# 22   12/28/2007 at 07:36 (5,957 days old) by tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        

A friend lived in a condo in FL where they had GE combos. During the warmer months the ground water was so warm that the condensing system was inefficient to the point of being almost ineffective. Most of the drying was accomplished by the steam leaking out under the rinse dispenser drawer since that was the top of the condensing system, such as it was.

110 volt condenser combos are going to take hours to dry a 6 lb cotton load, especially if it includes any towels. Unlike a portable vented dryer on 115 volts where you have the motor and heating element, the combo has to power a heavier motor to cope with washing and spinning, a heavier, but smaller tub, again for strength to withstand spinning, the separate motors for the pump and the blower or recirculator plus the heating element. The maximum load is 1500 watts on a single circuit to allow a bit of capacity for safety. The portable dryer can devote more wattage to the heater since the smaller motor is turning a lighter weight drum and running the blower off the other end of the motor shaft. The combo has the same wattage but has to split it up differently. Heating on 110 volts does not allow the dryer to heat quickly to the point where there is a proper temperature ratio between heated steamy air and the temperature of the cold water. Not only does hotter air hold more moisture, but makes a greater thermal difference between the air inside the dryer and the condensing water causing the condensing process to be more effective. It is not a fast process under the best of circumstances. The larger LG combo only pulses the water on for brief periods. It sprays against a plate to make the metal cold, giving the steam a place to condense and owners can tell you how long those machines take to dry.

If the drying was the same whether the cold water was on or not, perhaps the condenser was clogged with lint, the water jet for the condenser might have been clogged by a mineral buildup (highly likely in many parts of Florida where the water is hard) and not supplying the condenser with enough water or, and this seems to be a biggie with these machines according to users who post in the Laundry Room, the little fan blades in the blower quickly become covered in lint, reducing air flow.


Post# 256719 , Reply# 23   12/29/2007 at 06:01 (5,956 days old) by mrx ()        

Washer dryers in my experience are an absolute waste of time and money. I have had a few in rental accomodation in Ireland and the UK over the years and none of them, from any brand, were capable of drying clothes satisfactorily in anything like a reasonable time.

Washing machines and tumble dryers are very different beasts and combining the two usually gives you a normal washer with a small fan heater attached! The machine can't get the airflow necessary to dry effectively nor does it usually have the space in the drum.

Washers also have a lot of rubber door seals and are wet in side, so the dryer part has to first dry out the washing machine before it even has any impact on the clothes in the drum.

Also, I've found that many of these machines produce a horrible hot door seal smell as the various rubber components of the washing machine heat up. Your clothes come out whiffing of hot washing machine!

On top of that, many of the models I used heated the clothes FAR too hot and were totally unsuitable for delicate laundry.

I've now got an Electrolux Inspire Condenser-dryer that is producing excellent results and has reasonable drying time. Quite a nice capacity too for a machine that's a standard Euro kitchen module size.




Post# 256851 , Reply# 24   12/29/2007 at 22:37 (5,955 days old) by tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        

I guess nothing will ever compare favorably with the Bendix Duomatic. The electric condenser drying machines usually dried a full 8 pound load of cottons in 45 to 60 minutes, 60 minutes being a rarely needed amount of time.

Post# 256856 , Reply# 25   12/29/2007 at 23:09 (5,955 days old) by launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
YeahBut

launderess's profile picture
How much electric power or gas did those units draw?

Even today's full sized electric dryers are not rated the same as they were in the past. Heck one or two housewives using a Hamilton dryer at the same time probably took out the electic grid for the area! *LOL*

Seriously, dryers back then ran much hotter in most cases to deal with laundry that was wetter than even today's puny top loaders spin things.

L.


Post# 257103 , Reply# 26   1/1/2008 at 09:31 (5,953 days old) by mrx ()        

Yeah, I think older dryers (including European ones) were far more power hungry than their modern counterparts.

I've seen 3-phase European dryers for residential use dating back to the 1960s !!!
380V 50Hz 3 Phase. They possibly drew about 6 KW


Post# 257221 , Reply# 27   1/2/2008 at 08:58 (5,952 days old) by tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        

Actually, the older dryers like the Hamiltons, because of their low air flow did not use high wattage elements. The Fiiltrator dryers used 4400 watts for heating. The high drying temperatures of Hamilton-style dryers were maintained at the top of the drying chamber by having air moving underneath the drum pulling the heavier, moisture laden air out instead of introducing lots of air into the dryer that had to be heated. The late 30s Hotpoint dryer we have that is like the first GE dryer with the square window, needed new heating elements and both elements were the same wattage as the Filtrator's heaters. To achieve the high temperatures in a typical air flow dryer, the 50 amp 8000+ watts of input is needed because the evaporation of water holds down the drying temperature in an air flow type of dryer. I can get fast, high heat drying with my gas KitchenAid dryer with a 37000 BTU burner, but that is about 15000 more BTUs than the original burner. Any input will let a dryer get very hot after the clothes have dried. The secret to using high temperatures to speed drying in an air flow dryer is for the dryer to be able to reach a high operating temperature within 10 minutes or so of starting.


Forum Index:       Other Forums:                      



Comes to the Rescue!

The Discuss-o-Mat has stopped, buzzer is sounding!!!
If you would like to reply to this thread please log-in...

Discuss-O-MAT Log-In



New Members
Click Here To Sign Up.



                     


automaticwasher.org home
Discuss-o-Mat Forums
Vintage Brochures, Service and Owners Manuals
Fun Vintage Washer Ephemera
See It Wash!
Video Downloads
Audio Downloads
Picture of the Day
Patent of the Day
Photos of our Collections
The Old Aberdeen Farm
Vintage Service Manuals
Vintage washer/dryer/dishwasher to sell?
Technical/service questions?
Looking for Parts?
Website related questions?
Digital Millennium Copyright Act Policy
Our Privacy Policy