Thread Number: 15189
problem with 1960's Maytag washer
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Post# 256503   12/27/2007 at 17:27 (5,936 days old) by felinefrenzy ()        

Hi, need some help/advice please...

The facts:

Brought washer out of storage after 9 months (worked fine when stored)

Was stored during home renovation that resulted in relocation of washer hookups (possibly with higher water pressure, but not certain)

Leaks where intake connects to a plastic component - hookups are fine and hot/cold valves work OK - problem is at this component.

I've blown through both hoses that connect to the component and detect no clogs.

What I've tried:

Replace the clamps (quite possibly originals)

Continued problem:

Water seems to back up at the outflow end of the component and leak through the component. I am saying "through" because it is not solid and has what might be described as vents.

I detect no problems with the new clamps.

Any help and/or advice appreciated.

Thanks,
Richard





Post# 256512 , Reply# 1   12/27/2007 at 18:29 (5,936 days old) by coldspot66 (Plymouth, Mass)        

You need to replace the rubber insert and what's inside it. Also replace the plastic outer shell with the vent holes. There is a kit with all necessary parts and a new hose from the inlet valve to this injector assembly. Part # is 204660.

Post# 256515 , Reply# 2   12/27/2007 at 18:34 (5,936 days old) by felinefrenzy ()        

THANK YOU! My husband wrote the note above. He bypassed the injector and just attached the hoses together for now, so it would at least work until we can get new parts.
What is the function of the injector?
He will want to know every detail and function.

Thanks!
Glynis felinefrenzy


Post# 256538 , Reply# 3   12/27/2007 at 20:50 (5,935 days old) by coldspot66 (Plymouth, Mass)        

The injector assembly prevents gray water ( should the tub overflow) from backing up into the hose where fresh water exits, so as not to contaminate it.

Post# 256616 , Reply# 4   12/28/2007 at 17:16 (5,935 days old) by bobbyderegis (Boston)        

Yay John, to the rescue again. The rubber on the injectors tends to get stiff after a while and needs to be replaced, but I soak the plastic components in white vinegar for a few hours and they are like brand new again. Sometimes just removing the scale from everything stops the leaks.
Bobby in Boston


Post# 256645 , Reply# 5   12/28/2007 at 20:44 (5,934 days old) by felinefrenzy ()        

Thanks. I think we're just going to buy a whole new assembly. The interior of the washer is pretty rusted and corroded now because our basement wasn't very climate controlled like it is now. One thing that is different is the water pressure in the basement. WOW, it is strong which is probably what blew those babies out.

You guys are so great, thank-you. A few years ago it was clamps that leaked, then the thermostat on the drier went. Y'all where so helpful. We really appreciate it. All of our major appliances in the home are 50's/60's and I love my washer and drier. Don't want to have to replace them unless it is necessary! Best of all they were $100 for the pair!



Post# 256755 , Reply# 6   12/29/2007 at 12:08 (5,934 days old) by bobbyderegis (Boston)        

Feline:
and better than any you can buy today. We'll help you keep them running ALAP. We have a pair of Tag's from 1960 and they are still chugging. They did the laundry for seven kids, no less. Happy New Year!
Bobby in Boston



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