Thread Number: 16054
Belt Drive Kenmore - 60's |
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Post# 268300 , Reply# 4   3/7/2008 at 13:29 (5,886 days old) by kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC)   |   | |
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Kenmoreman above is right - if the hold-down bar that sits above the two cam bars is not there or is loose, you will get a funny clunking sound which comes from the cam bars flipping from one position to the other too fast. I have not heard that but once or twice, but I DO indeed remember the noise. The "hold down bar" looks like a bow-tie sorta, and is usually black in color. It is there to dampen the knee-jerk, spring loaded reflex of the cam bars, so that is very possibly the source of your noise. Hopefully yours is just loose. If you don't have one I probably have a couple of spares. A couple more thoughts: Be sure there is enough grease in the cam bar tracks - WP recommends Rykon grease. Also, check the setting and fit of the post (the basket drive yoke support) that rides on the spin cam bar and holds the far end of the clutch yoke (as seen from the service panel area. Many machines, especially models from the 70s, used adjustable nuts on that post and it could be out of adjustment, especially if you had to piece-together parts from various sources. I have noticed a distinct thunk or clunk in machines when the basket drive came together to go into spin if there was too much play in the basket drive yoke spacing. I have also noticed this, but to a lesser degree, when the clutch pads were severely worn. One more note - Since your early 60s machine pre-dates the fast brake design by about 10 years, be sure if you're using a newer fast brake clutch, that you used a hardened spin cam bar and not the original from the machine. The pressure/force of the brake can deform older cam bars after while, and though I have never seen that happen, WP repair manuals warn about it, and I would think this could cause noises of varying degree if the bar is not operating properly. Best wishes with the machine!!!!! Let us see some pics soon if you can. |
Post# 268353 , Reply# 5   3/7/2008 at 18:57 (5,886 days old) by kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC)   |   | |
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Here's a pic (lousy as it may be) that I just took of a leftover scrap transmission with the cam bar retainer. I apologize for the quality of the picture and the dirty trans, it was dark when I took this....but you can see the piece we were talking about in our posts above and it's position relative to the rest of the gearcase. If you can't see it, it's immediately to the left at ten o'clock of the black tee-bearing and agitator shaft. The Hopefully this will help you, even a little! |
Post# 268368 , Reply# 6   3/7/2008 at 21:04 (5,886 days old) by kenmoreman ( Southern NH)   |   | |
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Hey Kenmore guy were you a kenmore tech? |
Post# 268383 , Reply# 7   3/7/2008 at 22:45 (5,886 days old) by kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC)   |   | |
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Hey Kenmore man! Am I a "tech", not officially, but I am self-taught on belt-drive work. I repaired/rebuilt nearly 60 machines in the 1990s. I had one store owner who wanted to hire me to do his repairs, but I have a job/career and washer work is just for fun. In my early days I was mentored by a great guy who was a WP and a GE tech earlier in his career and when I met him he was working on his own. He got me started, and I took it from there. |
Post# 268428 , Reply# 9   3/8/2008 at 08:42 (5,886 days old) by kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC)   |   | |
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Hey there WHITEKINGD, First, thanks for doing this project. It is a great exercise for me as I have at least two, probably more, machines that will need this hose as well, including a 1961 model 70 like yours. First thing I did was pull up two model numbers at the Sears parts website (the 1961 and 1964 Kenmore 70s I have) - both show the original hose as being WP part 91769. It is indeed obsolete / NLA (no longer available). If you have a parts source or two that you shop, I suggest you check with them and any other parts store within reasonable reach and see if by some off-the-wall chance they have they part on the shelf. It does happen. Next thing I'd do is measure the hose inside diameter. Aren't the filter ports on a four port pump something like 1/2 inch diameter? I have not used many of those pumps so I don't totally remember. Anyway, if I'm faced with this problem I think my solution will be to try automotive heater hose. Auto parts stores stock it by the roll, you just cut or have the counter guy cut you the length you want. I think it is available in 1/2, 5/8, and 3/4 inch IDs. Being heater hose it will be more than durable enough for a washer filter use and it probably won't soften and kink when hot water is in it. Just be sure the I.D. (inside diameter) is sufficient. If your filtering result is still weak, you may want to direct your attention to your pump. They can get weak and loose efficiency over time. Great thing is the 350367 four port pump is still available from WP. Let us know please how it goes. I am pretty sure I'll have to deal with this issue myself in the coming months. Good luck man! |