Thread Number: 16606
BD Whirlpool help...
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Post# 274756   4/11/2008 at 19:24 (5,848 days old) by pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI)        

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Okay, so, I'm attempting to get a look and most likely replace the outer tub and the inner tub of my BD Whirlpool, however, I am currently stuck! I've got the nut off the inner tub but I've tried pretty much every trick I know and still can't get the tub to budge! I've tried hitting in various places with a rubber mallot, I've tried Lime-A-Way, penetrating oil, standing in the tub and wobbling it side to side by stomping, and nothing! Is there anything else I could try? Next, how do I get the outer tub out? Thanks for your help!




Post# 274757 , Reply# 1   4/11/2008 at 19:25 (5,848 days old) by pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI)        

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Close-up of the stuck area:

Post# 274758 , Reply# 2   4/11/2008 at 19:26 (5,848 days old) by pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI)        

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And the donor's outer tub, I'll probably put a nice coating of POR-15 on this one just to keep it safe!

Post# 274759 , Reply# 3   4/11/2008 at 19:34 (5,848 days old) by dadoes (TX, U.S. of A.)        

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Things to try:

Stand in the basket and "gently" rock side-to-side to loosen it.

Carefully heat the drive block with a torch. CAREFULLY so as to not crack the porcelain on the neck of the basket.


Remove the drive block if it doesn't come off with the basket. Disconnect any hoses on the tub (dispenser, water level, filter recirculation). Then the tub comes out by removing the four screws at the bottom, and lifting it upwards off the baseplate.


Post# 274760 , Reply# 4   4/11/2008 at 19:37 (5,848 days old) by gyrafoam (Wytheville, VA)        
Jaime----

I went through the same thing with my '59 restoration.
Spray the top area of the center-post well with PBlaster.

AND, after weeks of frustration and trying everything I just got good and agressive with it---stood in the tub and stomped the hell out of it. All of a sudden it was free!!!!!!!

Chill out and good luck!


Post# 274762 , Reply# 5   4/11/2008 at 19:56 (5,848 days old) by pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI)        

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I've finally gotten the basket out! Who knew gentle rocking would do a better job than harsh fast rocking... :)

How does the drive block come off? Should it just simply slide off? Cuz I think it simply won't do that and I don't have a torch to heat it with...


Post# 274763 , Reply# 6   4/11/2008 at 19:57 (5,848 days old) by pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI)        

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Here is a close-up of the dammage:

Post# 274774 , Reply# 7   4/11/2008 at 21:29 (5,848 days old) by gyrafoam (Wytheville, VA)        

Did you just use the word "simply"?

Well, you know what you 'gotta do---soooo might as well head to Blowe's or HD and get a cheap gas torch. They last and last anyway and believe me you will get your moneys worth many times over!

Have you considered giving John Lefever a call?

Looks like the "donor" has a much better spin-tube as well. But the POR-15 will take care of the problem.


Post# 274783 , Reply# 8   4/11/2008 at 23:57 (5,848 days old) by kenmoreman ( Southern NH)        
Drive block

You can knock the block with a ball pin hammer by tapping it from the bottom. It looks like you can use it again. If you clean off the bad areas on the centerpost and replace the centerpost seal with a new tub kit you will be fine. A bead of silicone on the manifold gasket would be nice. Also silicone the the centerpost seal where it rests on the platform. You should be fine. I love taking these machines apart. After you have done many it is easy. I respect your carefull approach. Regards Kenmoreman

Post# 274791 , Reply# 9   4/12/2008 at 03:41 (5,848 days old) by kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC)        
Regarding the close up photo of "the damage"

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Jamie -

The photos of both the center posts on your machines show common deterioration that happens on BDs over time. Removing an outer tub on a tall centerpost machine can be some work (yours are both taller posts as 1978 and later built machines had significantly shorter posts which make removing tubs easier).

My suggestion is to take a flat bladed screwdriver, one that is fairly sharp, and use it like a chisel to pry at the rust built-up. Getting the tub lip and centerpost gasket over the rusty areas (which expand when they rust) can be next to impossible if the rust areas are too large, plus this can damage or destroy the important lip area of the tub where the centerpost gasket is installed.

I would work on the rust until you've leveled the area(s) as best you can. If you want to do it even better, use some steel wool or sand paper to improve the surfaces further. It is going to be work to pull the tubs out. Once you've removed the four tub bolts, I have learned to twist them gently side to side as I pull up. Loosen the tub from the outlet hose first. If you coat your hands with detergent or hand soap before you start, then rub them on the centerposts, you'll find the tubs slip out a bit more easily. This works great on the re-install too.

Just take it easy on the machine when you traverse the rusty spots....I had one a few weeks ago that looked almost exactly like yours and the tub simply would not budge over the rusty spot that I had improved as much as I was willing at the time. At one point I was pulling hard enough to pick the front feet of the machine off the floor. I wound up cutting the centerpost gastet out, which helped, but the tub didn't want to budge over that one spot, but when it finally did (I was pulling with my hands under the bottom of the tub) the tub gave way suddenly which had never happened to me before, and my left knuckles slammed the left rear cabinet gusset hard enough to make a pretty major wound (was great for attention at my folk's that night for dinner and at work the next couple days though).

Flattening out the rust is even more important when re-installing the tub. Always use a new centerpost gasket - they're cheap and worth it. Soap up the gasket and the centerpost as I mentioned, and the new tub should be fairly easy to reinstall. I like to cover the rusty areas, once the tub is installed and sealed to your satisfaction, with sealant, so that water can't get into the rusty areas and make them worse.

Good luck! By the way, what's the reason for the tub swap?

Gordon


Post# 274944 , Reply# 10   4/13/2008 at 10:02 (5,846 days old) by vulcanchef ()        
drive block

try using a balljoint or steering wheel puller ya can get them at most auto/tool shops


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