Thread Number: 17608
Troubleshooting the GE Clothes Conditioner.....
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Post# 287969   6/30/2008 at 18:38 (5,776 days old) by filterflo (Chicago Area)        

The first way I troubleshoot a no heat problem on a dryer is to do a partial disassembly. I had already checked the pigtail for 220V at its source and also visually inspected the timer wires and terminals for burned marks....Everything there checked out OK...... These GE dryers are a little tricky to get apart because of the Compensated Control in the front panel and also because of the foot pedal mechanism.....




Post# 287970 , Reply# 1   6/30/2008 at 18:42 (5,776 days old) by filterflo (Chicago Area)        

Compensated Control (on the left) and door switch(small square).......disconnected. I made a quick picture with the wire color code on a note pad, even though I do have a complete wiring diagram on the back panel. Its usually a little easier to go by your own drawings when reassembling....... Note the hard copper wire routing from the bottom of the Compensated Control. This is the thermocouple used to sense heat/moisture during the cycle....

Post# 287972 , Reply# 2   6/30/2008 at 18:47 (5,776 days old) by filterflo (Chicago Area)        

More of the thermocouple of the Compensated Control.....mounted on the outside of the exhaust plenum. This sensed the dryness of the clothes and air while tumbling. Later GE models used a set of "fingers" in this spot, and the less deluxe models used thermostats to sense the exhaust air in the plenum......

Post# 287975 , Reply# 3   6/30/2008 at 18:48 (5,776 days old) by filterflo (Chicago Area)        

Inside of the dryer,,,,not a lot of lint build up, but I still will vacuum all this out. I used a "new" Hoover Spirit that my good friend Tom Anderson gave me recently..its a great dryer cleaner outer...... BTW, all wiring at this level is good too........hummm Why No Heat?

Post# 287977 , Reply# 4   6/30/2008 at 18:50 (5,776 days old) by filterflo (Chicago Area)        

Next checking the thermostats in the dryer. There are usually at least two or three of these. Its usually best to remove them from the circuit by disconnecting one side of the wiring.

Post# 287978 , Reply# 5   6/30/2008 at 18:52 (5,776 days old) by filterflo (Chicago Area)        

I used a Digital Fluke Meter, with a continuity beeper, but actually any cheap old meter would work as long as it can measure OHMS.......So Far...all the thermostats are good too.....

Post# 287979 , Reply# 6   6/30/2008 at 18:53 (5,776 days old) by filterflo (Chicago Area)        

Ah! It must be the heating element.......so disconnecting one wire from it,,,,,,,,,DAMN Its Good Too! a nice loud beep........Sigh,,,,,,,,there is really only one more thing it could be..........

Post# 287980 , Reply# 7   6/30/2008 at 18:56 (5,776 days old) by filterflo (Chicago Area)        

And There It IS.........Ouch! A bad Motor Switch. The terminal board is burnt on the Centrifigal Switch. This is the safety that keeps the element from powering up unless the motor is running, and also shuts off the element when the motor stops...such as when the door is opened mid cycle, with the timer still set for HEAT.

Post# 287981 , Reply# 8   6/30/2008 at 18:58 (5,776 days old) by filterflo (Chicago Area)        

Well, I guess its time to go hunting thru my parts. I know I have a couple of new replacement switches, but I also found a GE motor from a slightly newer dryer that I think will work too.

Post# 287983 , Reply# 9   6/30/2008 at 18:59 (5,776 days old) by filterflo (Chicago Area)        

This motor has the revised switch which can be externally changed without a total motor disassembly.

Post# 287984 , Reply# 10   6/30/2008 at 19:02 (5,776 days old) by filterflo (Chicago Area)        

But just like Scarlett O'Hara, tomorrow is another day........and I will debate which motor to use.......Either way, its a great dryer!

Post# 287999 , Reply# 11   6/30/2008 at 20:31 (5,776 days old) by tuthill ()        

That's pretty good! I think troubleshooting is the hardest part about working on things... but you seem to have it down.

Post# 288014 , Reply# 12   6/30/2008 at 21:56 (5,776 days old) by filterflo (Chicago Area)        

Gee thanks Tut, doing it for almost 40yrs kind of makes one look a little experienced........

Post# 288024 , Reply# 13   6/30/2008 at 23:09 (5,776 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        

swestoyz's profile picture
Jimmy - that dryer looks awfully similar to a 1960 Kelvinator dryer I saw disassembled quite a few years ago. Would they happen to be either the same or share parts?

Thanks for the photos - this really is a great looking dryer.

Ben


Post# 288032 , Reply# 14   12/31/2069 at 18:00 (19,837 days old) by supersuds (Knoxville, Tenn.)        

supersuds's profile picture
It is a lovely classic, and the tutorial is really interesting and appreciated, too.

Post# 288048 , Reply# 15   7/1/2008 at 04:04 (5,776 days old) by filterflo (Chicago Area)        

Ben, I agree with you about the Kelvinator similarity. Its almost eerie how close the GE and Kelvinator dryers of this era resemble each other......... I dont think any of the parts interchange between the two, unfortunately.....

Post# 288050 , Reply# 16   7/1/2008 at 05:11 (5,776 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut)        

bajaespuma's profile picture
Thanks for the pics. For the newbies among us, this makes it do-able.

Post# 288063 , Reply# 17   7/1/2008 at 07:01 (5,776 days old) by gyrafoam (Wytheville, VA)        

Funny you guys should mention the Kelvy dryer of that era. I thought the same thing. Just to look at it you'd think the Kelvy was a re-badged GE! Especially the interior of the door.

I remember those dryers lasted and lasted. I know examples of them that were still in use when they were twenty years old----or older!

Thanks for sharing the photos and tips----I've never seen one of those apart before!


Post# 288107 , Reply# 18   7/1/2008 at 15:16 (5,776 days old) by gewa1054wguy ()        
Expert of the Experts

Hi Jimmy,

The inside of your dryer is so clean and rust free. As someone who teaches auto technology, proper diagnosis relies on a logical step by step set of procedures, grounded by the base knowledge of how the machine should properly function. My students want to just go change parts, but that is not the way a professional goes about it. It is a craft that is fading fast, as the new appliances we have today are not made for service but for recycling piles.

I could never have got mine going again without your experience to guide me through it, along with the parts and the repair manual you sent me. I use the dryer once a week and it is a very happy, though bumpy, machine. I plan to install the guides in place of the rollers soon, so then it should be real smooth.

See you soon,

EMP


Post# 288108 , Reply# 19   7/1/2008 at 15:18 (5,776 days old) by timonator ()        
Looks Familiar

Keep all this fresh in you mind..because you KNOW im going to be calling you when I put my dryer back together.its been so long now...ive forgotten a few things..like that thermostat on the front....

Post# 288125 , Reply# 20   7/1/2008 at 18:16 (5,775 days old) by filterflo (Chicago Area)        

Tim, you mean you STILL have'nt finished putting that GE dryer back together? Oh My!


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