Thread Number: 18714
The First Licensed Unimatic! |
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Post# 303492   9/13/2008 at 21:53 (5,675 days old) by pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI)   |   | |
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Post# 303494 , Reply# 1   9/13/2008 at 21:56 (5,675 days old) by pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI)   |   | |
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Post# 303495 , Reply# 2   9/13/2008 at 21:58 (5,675 days old) by pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI)   |   | |
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Post# 303496 , Reply# 3   9/13/2008 at 22:01 (5,675 days old) by pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI)   |   | |
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Post# 303497 , Reply# 4   9/13/2008 at 22:03 (5,675 days old) by pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI)   |   | |
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Post# 303498 , Reply# 5   9/13/2008 at 22:05 (5,675 days old) by pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI)   |   | |
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Post# 303500 , Reply# 6   9/13/2008 at 22:07 (5,675 days old) by appnut (TX)   |   | |
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Post# 303501 , Reply# 7   9/13/2008 at 22:10 (5,675 days old) by pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI)   |   | |
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I also forgot to take a pic of the final spin... Oh well! I was just to excited/hypnotized! A couple things this machine still has issues with: -The fill still needs tweaking which it gonna be a B*TCH now that it's in place... -The legs... Ohhhhh the legs, any ideas? They are very uneven and the machine has this bad habit of going off balance during the spin-out and evening out as it accelerates but it still wiggles off of the thick metal discs I have the legs sitting on, I can't get this machine to sit solidly on the floor! |
Post# 303512 , Reply# 8   9/13/2008 at 22:52 (5,675 days old) by whirlaway (Hampton Virginia)   |   | |
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Go to Lowes and buy some wooden shims,they come in a pack like for 4.00,I did this this with my Kenmore and used a level and they work fine and they absorb any extra sounds from the machine.It seems much softer running. |
Post# 303518 , Reply# 9   9/14/2008 at 01:24 (5,675 days old) by frigilux (The Minnesota Prairie)   |   | |
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Post# 303520 , Reply# 10   9/14/2008 at 01:40 (5,675 days old) by pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI)   |   | |
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Post# 303557 , Reply# 11   9/14/2008 at 13:05 (5,674 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!)   |   | |
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Are the legs rusted on the washer? You can lay the machine down, use a penetrating oil to soak into the rust - or - heat them a little and try to break them free with a wrench. Don't force them or they will break off, causing a lot more work. I've had pretty good luck with penetrating oil soaking in for a day or so. (I know, you don't want to stop using it ;-) Once you get them free, you can try to clean them up with a wire brush. If they are too far gone, take one into the appliance parts store and match it up with new ones. IIRC that GE washer legs fit the unimatic. I try to use Maytag rubber cups for their dryers as they are the correct size and the Maytag rubber is the best for keeping them tightly held in place on the floor. The unimatic is one machine that must be on solid footing or it will shake and walk all over the place. Shims will not work for long, been there, done that ;-) The only way to make it work properly is to restore them properly - you'll be happy you spent the time to do it right. |
Post# 303560 , Reply# 12   9/14/2008 at 13:35 (5,674 days old) by trainguy (Key West, FL)   |   | |
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Post# 303621 , Reply# 13   9/14/2008 at 19:16 (5,674 days old) by tuthill ()   |   | |
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Glad to see the solenoid worked out for ya Jamie! I bet you're having a ton of fun with that Unimatic... they sure are great machines. |
Post# 303625 , Reply# 14   9/14/2008 at 19:26 (5,674 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)   |   | |
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Hey Jamie - everything looks great! I know exactly what you are going through with trying to get it level. I had very good luck with a set of leveling legs off of a Big Load Maytag dryer (HOH are too big). Same bolt size and everything. Also make sure that the machine is not rocking on the cross member brace by adjusting the leveling legs too low. Take the time to level both left and right, and front to back. I have rubber shoes on the rears, and plain steel on the front. Ben |