Re: Saturday's "POD" Norge Gas Dryer:

I actually converted to electric (smooth-top) cooking now that I have a house.

(IMHO- faster, cleaner, cooler, safer and easier-to-clean, than gas)

But I also have a 20" wide Avanti (Made in Turkey) for such power failures. It has some interestng featues not usually found in compact gas stoves. Waist-high broiler burner and sealed gas burners on top of the stove. So like an electric stove or a gas self-cleaner it has two burners in the same oven cavity (bake & broil.) The themostat capillary tube and bulb sensor are nicely "hidden" at the top of the oven door in a metal shield. No banging it up with pans or destroying it during ---sigh-- manual cleaning. The oven bottom is porcelainized on BOTH sides and removable, which to me says "dishwasher safe." Getting a second one to alternate.

What attracted me to it is that the thermostat is mechanical (like classic 1950's gas stoves) To ignite it, one holds in the control knobs which prompts a "clicker" spark ignition. The knob for the bake and broil burners has to be held in for 10 to 15 seconds, till the heat sensor kicks in, which allows the gas safety valve to remain open. There is an ignition hole ("match-lite hole") by the bake burner to allow for match lighting during a power failure. The broil burner is exposed at the top of the oven cavity so it is easy to light as well.

WAY COOL!

When the thermostat is satisfied the size of the flame reduces until it reaches "minimum bypass flame" In theory this cooks better becase the temperature swings associated with an electric thermostat and electric gas solenoid valve system (in US stoves) are eliminated.

DEFICIENCIES:

Can't broil then switch to bake when oven is still hot. The minimum by-pass flame is too small and the burner won't stay lit. So you have to bake first, then broil.

There is no keep-warm setting (120 to 170 degree F) this is normally accomplished by cycling the heat souce.

Came with one oven rack only.

Overall it's a nice piece of equipment.


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Post# 64040 4/23/2005 at 04:09 (6,940 days old) by SactoTeddyBear ()
Checkrate/Likes Does anyone know how the Women's Hair Drying Hood connected to the Dryer to operate that, while the Dryer was running? I know that this "POD" was around not too long ago and someone mentioned about the Hair Drying capability, but I don't remember if anyone asked about the Hair Drying Hood attaching to the Dryer. Peace and Happy Laundry and Hair Drying, Steve SactoTeddyBear...

Post# 64050 , Reply# 1 4/23/2005 at 07:53 (6,940 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY)
Checkrate/Likes *GAS fired hair dryer* NO CLUE how they hook up. I am assuimng the the dryer drum received blown-in warm air near the front of the door (where a GE lint trap would be) and that there was some kind of adapter to funnel the air through the bonnet's hose... (Don't most dryer fans suck the air out now?) But here is what I process mentally when I see that POD.. NICE... let's breathe in the by-products of combustion.Carbon dioxide, Sufuric oxides, Nitrous oxides. How smart or safe was that...having a poisonous gas producing helmet over your head a foot or less from your nose? Don't gas dryers tend to be 22,000 btu/h? (british Thermal Units)If an electric hair dryer is 1,500 watts @ 3.4 Btu per watt then we can assume they produce 5,100 Btu-s HMMMMM.... 22,0000 Btu gas hair dryer versus 5,100 btu electric hair dryer. And as far as I have ever seen, all gas burners on dryers are either full-on or full-off. (Cant get low heat like a stove's surface burner.) Depending on how these bonnets/helmets hook-up maybe we should have seen a pic with FOUR people getting their "DO" done....

Post# 64062 , Reply# 2 4/23/2005 at 09:50 (6,940 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!)
Checkrate/Likes Norge dryers blew air through the drum from the back and out the front, normally down through the lint trap under the drum and out of the machine through the back. For drying your hair (and giving yourself a headache) you attached the hood/hose unit to the door opening which pushed the air from the dryer through the hose into the hood and CO2 into your bloodstream. Norge dryers are notorious for the pressurized drying method versus the negative pressure/vacuum - pulling air through the dryer rather than pushing it that most other dryers used. Ask Bob-appnut about this, he had one growing up...

Post# 64087 , Reply# 3 4/23/2005 at 17:04 (6,939 days old) by westytoploader ()
Checkrate/Likes I wonder if your hair would be "flocked" too with this attachment...

Post# 64097 , Reply# 4 4/23/2005 at 20:52 (6,939 days old) by appnut (TX)
Checkrate/Likes Well, the 3 females in the hiousehold didn't opt. for the hair drying option. I imagine part of it was we already had a couple of hairdryers. The other reason is-during the summer in Houston in the late 1950s and 1960, mty sisters would sit outside under the window unit and dry their hair form the discharged warm/hot air. I still remember them complainibng about headaches. We actually had two Norge dryers, a timeline one knob model and a 1964 TOL Wrinkle-Out dryer with notched hamper door. When Perm Press started emerging in 1965 (I remember cuz I got a green pair of PP slacks that when I washed them--when mom wasn't home, I did them alone on the durable press cycle LOL) my method of hanging up clothes was after cooldown, I'd put on fluff and take each piece out and hang up. Overtime, the safety stop button stuck and anytime I'd open the dryer door to get something, I really didn't have to search, it kinda blew out to the hamper door in the upward tilt angle. And even with towels, they'd get blown out too.

Post# 64129 , Reply# 5 4/24/2005 at 09:18 (6,939 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY)
Checkrate/Likes *Innovative hair-drying methods* Hi appnut. "..sit outside under the window unit and dry their hair" Do you mean a window-mounted A/C or the gas dryer's vent thought a window? I am guessing the latter based on headaches? LOL I'm surprised that Texas residences have/use natural gas. I just figured that, like what I have seen in Flordia, it's too hot to cook with and heating is not a primary concern/cost so why bother having it installed. Wrong assumptions?

Post# 64142 , Reply# 6 4/24/2005 at 14:04 (6,939 days old) by DADoES (TX,�U.S. of A.)
Checkrate/Likes Gas and electric are both common. It's not unusual that new construction has gas cooking, water heating, and central heating.

Post# 64145 , Reply# 7 4/24/2005 at 14:32 (6,939 days old) by appnut (TX)
Checkrate/Likes Steve, it was sitting outside in front of the window-mounted AC. Remember, this was about the time you were born. Central heat/air was beginning to catch on. Trust me, except for the extreme south (like Corpus Christi), it gets cold enuf even in Houston/Galveston to need heating. And Corpus had snow this past winter.

Post# 64155 , Reply# 8 4/24/2005 at 17:26 (6,938 days old) by david (CA)
Checkrate/Likes I,for one, like having a gas water heater and gas logs in the event of winter power outages which can last several days or even weeks. Anything else can be either gas or electric. Ice storms happen often enough in the middle and upper parts of the south, more often than snow does, to cause real havoc with driving and powerlines from pinetrees that can't stand the weight of ice and snap in two. Heavy ice will completely uproot old top heavy live oak trees. We don't have bad weather every year, but often enough to remember.

Post# 64186 , Reply# 9 4/25/2005 at 04:35 (6,938 days old) by kenmore1978 ()
Checkrate/Likes *failures* true, one virtually never hears of a "gas failure" as often as a "power failure" The gas infrasturcture is for the most part, underground, safe from the elements

Post# 64197 , Reply# 10 4/25/2005 at 07:13 (6,938 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY)
Checkrate/Likes *power failures* I actually converted to electric (smooth-top) cooking now that I have a house. (IMHO- faster, cleaner, cooler, safer and easier-to-clean, than gas) But I also have a 20" wide Avanti (Made in Turkey) for such power failures. It has some interestng featues not usually found in compact gas stoves. Waist-high broiler burner and sealed gas burners on top of the stove. So like an electric stove or a gas self-cleaner it has two burners in the same oven cavity (bake & broil.) The themostat capillary tube and bulb sensor are nicely "hidden" at the top of the oven door in a metal shield. No banging it up with pans or destroying it during ---sigh-- manual cleaning. The oven bottom is porcelainized on BOTH sides and removable, which to me says "dishwasher safe." Getting a second one to alternate. What attracted me to it is that the thermostat is mechanical (like classic 1950's gas stoves) To ignite it, one holds in the control knobs which prompts a "clicker" spark ignition. The knob for the bake and broil burners has to be held in for 10 to 15 seconds, till the heat sensor kicks in, which allows the gas safety valve to remain open. There is an ignition hole ("match-lite hole") by the bake burner to allow for match lighting during a power failure. The broil burner is exposed at the top of the oven cavity so it is easy to light as well. WAY COOL! When the thermostat is satisfied the size of the flame reduces until it reaches "minimum bypass flame" In theory this cooks better becase the temperature swings associated with an electric thermostat and electric gas solenoid valve system (in US stoves) are eliminated. DEFICIENCIES: Can't broil then switch to bake when oven is still hot. The minimum by-pass flame is too small and the burner won't stay lit. So you have to bake first, then broil. There is no keep-warm setting (120 to 170 degree F) this is normally accomplished by cycling the heat souce. Came with one oven rack only. Overall it's a nice piece of equipment.