Thread Number: 19376
Whirpool washer saved from trash |
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Post# 312065 , Reply# 1   10/28/2008 at 20:43 (5,630 days old) by suds14 (Pittsburgh)   |   | |
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Another picture |
Post# 312067 , Reply# 2   10/28/2008 at 20:44 (5,630 days old) by suds14 (Pittsburgh)   |   | |
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3rd picture |
Post# 312068 , Reply# 3   10/28/2008 at 20:46 (5,630 days old) by suds14 (Pittsburgh)   |   | |
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4th & final picture low water level wash. |
Post# 312069 , Reply# 4   10/28/2008 at 20:51 (5,630 days old) by suds14 (Pittsburgh)   |   | |
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Sorry 0ne more picture my daughter made me add this one. |
Post# 312077 , Reply# 5   10/28/2008 at 21:34 (5,630 days old) by supersurgilator (Indiana)   |   | |
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What a beautiful machine, so glad you were able to get it. I have a question though, when you say it leaked a lot, do you mean when using the suds return or just any cycle? |
Post# 312082 , Reply# 6   10/28/2008 at 21:44 (5,630 days old) by suds14 (Pittsburgh)   |   | |
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The water is leaking from were the hose from the pump connects to suds / drain hose switch. The metal connecter the hose attaches to has rusted away, and part of the connecter is stuck in the hose. |
Post# 312155 , Reply# 7   10/29/2008 at 12:45 (5,629 days old) by kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC)   |   | |
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If I am reading this right, the part you need is a two-way valve, which was still available last time I checked. Most parts houses and Sears should be able to get one for you. The hose with the valve remnants in it should be able to be picked clean if you work at it. Be careful to remove the clamp if it's still on, and peel away the corroded metal carefully so as not to rip the hose. I think suds hoses are much harder to find if they're NLA (no longer available). Good luck! |
Post# 312215 , Reply# 9   10/29/2008 at 16:52 (5,629 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)   |   | |
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Post# 312216 , Reply# 10   10/29/2008 at 16:54 (5,629 days old) by kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC)   |   | |
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David - It is possible to form a hose if absolutely necessary using straight hose and plastic elbows & joints (you'll need the correct diameter for it to fit properly on the pump and the valve), however I would try to reuse the original hose first or see if one your dad saved is the same. If not, one may possibly be located. Get me your model number and I'll see if I can figure it out. If the existing hose is still soft and not dried out, it ought to be able to have the valve debris removed. Since you have the clamp off, try to squeeze the hose from the outside to break up the metal parts. That should not rip the hose. Once you do that, you should be able to rub the rest of the stuck bits off, piece by piece. If the hose is too far gone, you'll need to splice one. I don't know the diameter, however hose supply houses have the WP diameters, and even Home Depot had some when I last looked. Get me your model # and I'll see at least what the hose part number was/is. Gordon |
Post# 312221 , Reply# 11   10/29/2008 at 17:04 (5,629 days old) by suds14 (Pittsburgh)   |   | |
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Gordon The model number is LTA5605E0. The hoses are still soft. Goatfarmer you are right this hose is curved. Hopefully I will be able to get the piece of metal out. Thank you for the help & suggestions. David |
Post# 312233 , Reply# 12   10/29/2008 at 17:53 (5,629 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)   |   | |
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Post# 312248 , Reply# 13   10/29/2008 at 18:49 (5,629 days old) by pierreandreply4 (St-Bruno de montarville (province of quebec) canada)   |   | |
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Post# 312263 , Reply# 15   10/29/2008 at 19:29 (5,629 days old) by kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC)   |   | |
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Post# 312280 , Reply# 16   10/29/2008 at 20:42 (5,629 days old) by suds14 (Pittsburgh)   |   | |
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Gordon Here are the pictures of the 2 way valve 1 part broke on the side were the pump attaches and the other is were the suds hose connects. |
Post# 312281 , Reply# 17   10/29/2008 at 20:44 (5,629 days old) by suds14 (Pittsburgh)   |   | |
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2nd picture Suds hose connection |
Post# 312293 , Reply# 18   10/29/2008 at 21:45 (5,629 days old) by danelto (State College, PA)   |   | |
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Congratulations!!! Your machine is absolutely gorgeous. Dan |
Post# 312381 , Reply# 20   10/30/2008 at 11:54 (5,628 days old) by kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC)   |   | |
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David - The part numbers above are correct. Sears will sell you the 285144 for $70 or so and the 89346 for $75, BUT I checked ebay, and I would get the valve there if I were you. There is a valve body with solenoid for $49.50 w/ free shipping. There is another item as a valve body only (as 285144) for $25 or best offer. Both are good deals and I think worth a Whirl! The new valve body is plastic I believe, which won't corrode like your old one did. Let us know how it goes! Gordon |