Thread Number: 20720
Maytag A207 : Brake Squeal
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Post# 328969   2/5/2009 at 20:30 (3,575 days old) by danroyea ()        

Greetings - neat forum!

I'm hoping I can get some advice on maintaining our washing machine.

First, it emits a banshee shriek when the brake goes on. Is this something that is easily and affordably repaired? I don't have any diagrams, so I'm not exactly sure where to check.

Secondly, there is a chip in the enamel on the tub and I suspect it might add a rust stain to clothes if they're left in side for any length of time -- any tips on a fix for this?

Lastly, I'd love to know the power consumption of this appliance but have been unable to find a label on the machine or any information online.

I'll appreciate any words of wisdom - I'm hoping to keep this cool old washer in service (my wife wants to get something new...)


Post# 328980 , Reply# 1   2/5/2009 at 23:04 (3,575 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

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"First, it emits a banshee shriek when the brake goes on. Is this something that is easily and affordably repaired?"

One of two things. The obvious is worn brake shoes which requires a replacement of the entire brake package. The brake package is no longer serviceable due to lack of available internal parts. Special tools and experience are required working with spring loaded components that are under 200+ pounds of pressure anyway :)

The most common problem is lack of lubrication. Maytags ingenious, long lasting brake system is a wet braking design. It's possible to re-lube the shoes by pouring a tablespoon of Maytag transmission oil into the brake package. Removal of the transmission pulley is required to access the brake package. Some aftermarket manuals mention substituting any oil. Not entirely true. The oil must be relatively thick to serve a lasting effect, so 80/90 gear oil is probably the most compatible choice if genuine Maytag oil is not available. I personally wouldn't use a synthetic blend.

"Lastly, I'd love to know the power consumption of this appliance but have been unable to find a label on the machine or any information online."

As far as the watt scale is concerned, a 19 gallon (tall tub) machine loaded with a full tub of water should consume 360-420 watts (add 40 watts for back-lit console models) during the agitation period. Spin cycle will initially consume 580-640 watts (add 40 watts for back-lit models) on an empty tub and level out around 480 once up to speed. This is during regular spin speed, not the slower spin speed that is offered on the 2 speed machines, which should hoover around 350 watts. Keep in mind these ratings are for the pre-orbital transmissions (before June of 1986......a very sad month/year)

Post# 329080 , Reply# 2   2/6/2009 at 13:24 (3,574 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

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You can lubricate the brake package without removing the pulley. You need a plastic oil bottle, with a long flexible spout on it. It will reach up into the brake just fine.

Post# 329135 , Reply# 3   2/6/2009 at 19:46 (3,574 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Concord, CA (But my heart will always be in sweet Nevada!))        

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Correct, the brake should be lubed with a heavier oil. I use a long spouted oiler filled with Maytag Transmission oil. Just a little bit will do.


Post# 968236 , Reply# 4   11/15/2017 at 21:28 (370 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        

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I'm hoping to add a bit of heavy oil to a Maytag brake assembly, and this video helps me somewhat understand the overall assembly before I start, but where do I add the oil? The brake assy shown looks like a sealed unit.

Post# 968607 , Reply# 5   11/17/2017 at 19:24 (368 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        

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Where do I add oil on a old Maytag brake?

Post# 968702 , Reply# 6   11/18/2017 at 11:52 (367 days old) by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        

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Adding oil to a MT HD washer brake, You just lay the washer over and add 1 tablespoon of oil to the inside bottom edge, you do not have to remove the brake assembly or even remove the main drive pulley to do this [ you can add the oil through one of the large holes in the main drive pulley ]

John L.

Post# 968704 , Reply# 7   11/18/2017 at 11:56 (367 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
Thank you John L!!!

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I was looking and hoping for an answer for days!
Thanks you from Mark

Post# 974889 , Reply# 8   12/21/2017 at 14:42 (334 days old) by sel8207 (naples, florida 34117)        
brake shoe

Has anyone ever replaced the brake shoes on a brake assembly. Is there a video or pics of it? I looked up the brake shoe parts online and they still show as available for around 20 dollars. Also, wouldn't a brake shoe be considered a regular "wear" item, like brake shoes, or transmission bands on a car? thanks. Les.

Post# 974975 , Reply# 9   12/22/2017 at 07:21 (334 days old) by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        
Have you tried adding more oil to it ?

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Normally the brake lining would be about the last thing to ever wear out on a MT washer.


I am sure that you could rebuild one, but you have to be very careful when dissembling the brake package because of the heavy 200 pound tension spring inside.


Complete brake packages are easily available if oiling does not cure the brake squealing problem.


John L.

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