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Thread Number: 21085
Steps required to safely bring a washer back to life |
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Post# 333607 , Reply# 1 3/4/2009 at 07:09 (5,525 days old) by unimatic1140  (Minneapolis) |
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Just two steps really for an old Kenmore. #1 Put a drain hose on the machine and pour at least four cups of very hot water (not boiling) down the drain hose to prime the pump with hot water. Take off the back panel and check for leaks. #2 With the back panel off rock the belt back and forth to make sure its not stuck. | ||
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Post# 333617 , Reply# 2 3/4/2009 at 08:32 (5,525 days old) by revvinkevin (Tinseltown - Shakey Town - La-La Land) |
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Very good suggestions!
I would think you should be able to just pour this very not water into the tub because it will go into the pump... but you will need more then 4 cups if you do it this way........... Also, for safety, make sure the machine is unplugged when you move the drive belt by hand. If or when the belt moves easily, then gradually move it more then just "rocking". After you do that and the water has a chance to "soak" for 5 minutes or so, you can put the drain hose down into a bucket to "gravity drain" it out, then add more hot water for a 2nd soaking. After all this, start the machine in a drain or spin with the lid OPEN so it will not spin at first. After it starts and sounds like everything is as it should be, then push the lid switch to make it spin, make sure it sounds smooth, etc. Take it all it steps. | ||
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Post# 333631 , Reply# 3 3/4/2009 at 10:20 (5,525 days old) by kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC) |
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I have a few things to add about the water in the pump.... Using hot water is a good idea to re-seal the pump if it has dried out, as cold water may leak out via the impeller shaft. This may not work if the pump was already leaking, or it may not be necessary at all, but it is a very good idea. Warm or hot wash water may also eventually seal a leaky pump, if it is leaking simply due to an extended period of dis-use. I would advise however that you put the water in the tub outlet, which feeds the pump, basically what Kevin said. If the machine has a manifold trap, which it probably does, you'll need a couple quarts to properly douse the pump, but the manifold once full (16 oz. I'd estimate) will drain directly into the pump without interference. Using the drain hose however may or may not directly reach the pump. Some models drain through a self-cleaning lint filter, which is mounted either in the corner of the cabinet or on the side of the tub (depending on age). Cabinet mounted filters drain upwards at the top of the cabinet, so you'd have to fill the filter and fill all those hoses before you reach the pump. Some models from the early 70s forward use a pump that will NOT gravity drain in the agitate settings and won't allow water in from the backwards direction. Washers with a cabinet mounted self cleaning lint filter don't gravity drain either unless a siphon can be created. The tub-mounted filter (possibly too new for your machine) would have similar issues getting water backwards to the pump. To avoid determining which configuration you have, I'd just pour the water into the front left corner of the tub, which is where the outlet and manifold are. All models will drain from there into the pump. Dislodging the belt if it has become stuck or adhered to the pulley(s) is a good idea too. I haven't seen many badly stuck belts from machines that were unused only for a few years unless they were exposed to a lot of moisture such as a damp basement or outdoor weather, which allows pulleys to rust and rubber to rot. Once that's good to go, I always set a machine to a drain/spin portion, with the lid up so it won't spin, then just let it idle. Next, engage spin. If the machine will dry agitate in the normal cycle, that's a very good pre-water check (some won't but if they do it's in the last 2 minutes of wash). If the machine idles, spins and agitates, then go for it! Gordon | ||
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