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Thread Number: 2124
'61 Kenmore discouragement... |
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| Post# 67032 5/16/2005 at 20:21 (6,911 days old) by roto204 (Tucson, AZ) | ||
Hi all! :-) I'm working on my '61 Kenmore, and absolutely cannot get the transmission and spin brake to come out of the centerpost of the base. Now, keep in mind, the centerpost is way rusted, and I'm not beyond guessing that there may be an irregularity that's keeping the tranny from sliding out. But everything on the agitator shaft and spin tube that I've seen so far is shiny. I can get the whole assembly to slide about three inches, and then it binds. Or, I can partially dismantle the spin brake, and slide the transmission out a little further still. But then it stops. I don't want to go pounding on things I shouldn't...any recommendations? Can someone summarize the proper steps for removing this assembly? Maybe I'm forgetting something. Do the little rubber seals up top of the shafts need to come out? The transmission is peeing oil everywhere from where the agitator shaft enters from the top--that just started during this attempted removal operation. Needless to say, I'm somewhere between disheartened and horrified. I guess the next question is what kind of oil goes in the transmission...but that's for later--first I have to get the darned thing out. Recommendations, anyone? I greatly appreciate any tips you have to offer. | ||
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| Post# 67073 , Reply# 5 5/17/2005 at 00:18 (6,911 days old) by roto204 (Tucson, AZ) | ||
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You guys are great!! Thank you so much. You definitely qualify as my heroes of the day!! I followed your instructions and, upon investigating, found the shafts to be pristine, which was nice. The bushings and goodies in the centerpost appear okay, which seems to imply that the centerpost exterior does not reflect the interior (thank goodness). I was also able to put things back together, and degreased as much of the tranny as I could before installing the belt. It was a mess, though, so I had to be careful to not let oil touch the belt. Hopefully I did that part okay, because the instructions I was able to find were confusing to an extent (well, to the extent that I'm a newbie at this). The part about the T-bearing at the bottom seemed bizarre, and I'm hoping I didn't mess that part up. Things look taut and back together. But I think I lost about a half cup of oil. I take it KM/WP trannies don't like to go upside down? (I'm hoping the drain/refill process doesn't require inversion, then...) :-) In any case, is there a good way to check my work? Maybe slide the wig-wag in and out of their cam bars to make sure that the transmission still agitates and spins predictably? And then, what's the process for refilling the transmission (and what should I use?). The oil feels very viscous--definitely different-feeling than motor oil. I'm going to try and check my work tomorrow evening...then hopefully I can proceed onward. Last question--what's a good way to make sure the motor is tensioned properly? I reattached the pump and bits to make sure the belt went through all the pulleys, and pulled back firmly on the motor mount while tightening the bolt. The new belt is a lot less slack than the old one, but I'm hoping I have sufficient tension on it. Thank you again for all your help--this is the hard part, and I think--with the "powertrain" intact--I can manage the rest a lot more easily :-) --Nate | ||
| Post# 67081 , Reply# 8 5/17/2005 at 03:17 (6,910 days old) by fixerman () | ||
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You can check for binding and to see if the machine agitates and spins by moving the plungers in and out while turning the belt to check your work. | ||
| Post# 67112 , Reply# 9 5/17/2005 at 12:55 (6,910 days old) by roto204 (Tucson, AZ) | ||
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May as well do things correctly...
Thank you for all the info and help, fixerman. I didn't lubricate the bearings, so I'm debating going back and taking it apart again and getting everything that needs getting. I figure that I'll need to replace that seal that leaks, then, since doing it halfway is silly if it could cause problems in the future (and my goal is to not have to do this again for a while). Do you have a part # or source for that seal and spring? My main worry is that, if I let it go and tip it upside down to refill the oil, I'll just be back to square one, having to play Keystone Kops to contain the oil that leaks as I try to refill it, and all the while try to avoid soaking the new belt in oil. So, I figure I may as well do the whole thing. Thanks again for all your help! --Nate | ||
| Post# 67131 , Reply# 11 5/17/2005 at 15:54 (6,910 days old) by fixerman () | ||
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And Sears. Just type in the whirlpool part no. CLICK HERE TO GO TO fixerman's LINK | ||
| Post# 67141 , Reply# 12 5/17/2005 at 17:44 (6,910 days old) by roto204 (Tucson, AZ) | ||
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| Post# 67149 , Reply# 13 5/17/2005 at 18:39 (6,910 days old) by roto204 (Tucson, AZ) | ||
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Thanks...and what's turbine oil? :-D
Thanks, Scott--you're such a sweetie and a trooper. Yes, I have had some amazing help from great people to help me get this far! I'm just hoping at some point that I hit the bottom of the "to do" list on this machine :-D Greg, a couple of questions floated to the surface of my mind :-)--first, what's turbine oil? (Sorry, it's a new term to the uninitiated :-).) Also, to replace the spring and seal, do you have to take apart the rest of the transmission? If so, will I need to plan on replacing the seal that joins the case halves? Just curious so I can be better prepared :-) Thank you very much again for all your help! | ||
| Post# 67196 , Reply# 16 5/17/2005 at 23:13 (6,910 days old) by roto204 (Tucson, AZ) | ||
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Thanks, Greg--if I can wander into the parts place and ask for the oil, that'll be just fine. (I'll have to look at it when I get some--how interesting!) I'm all for buying the gasket--do you have the part number on that too? :-D (*sheepish grin*--sorry to use you like a parts manual, but I really do appreciate the help--when I can find the parts number stamped on things, I go to it--but hidden things like the spring and seal can be toughies) If it's NLA I'll take your silicone advice. I'm guessing the Ultra Blue RTV that I have will do, probably? Hiya Austin! I'm trying like the dickens not to get frustrated by this--I guess in the end it's all worth it, because all the pesky, wear-prone parts will be replaced. But it's hard to not miss the glitz of instant gratification :-) This is the first major restoration project I've undertaking, and I'm finding some satisfaction in going slowly and not taking a hammer to things (and believe me, I've had some moments...). My '61 is in comparable shape to your '68. The centerpost rusted so badly that it compressed the donut seal and split the tub, and has rusted through in a spot. However, the inside of the post is shiny and everything rotates freely, so I have knocked and brushed off all the rust, and ordered a new donut seal. I'm going to reapply some porcelain patch to the tub, fix the split, and probably end up siliconing the bejesus out of the donut seal, because it simply won't fit like it was meant to around a centerpost that is so incredibly irregular. I don't think it's an impossibility, though--I just need to repair the centerpost as best I can and apply some serious rust sealant. Someday, though, she will be destined for a new centerpost/base assembly--this one just can't go on forever. But it's not totally hosed :-) I'm just taking the nuisances as minor obstacles for now--and trying to stay focused on the goal ;-) In the meantime, if you won't give up on your 1-18, I won't give up on my Kenmore :-) Take very good care, and thank you again, guys. I can't tell you how much help you've been--both technically and in the moral-support arena :-) --Nate | ||
| Post# 67245 , Reply# 19 5/18/2005 at 09:24 (6,909 days old) by roto204 (Tucson, AZ) | ||
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Thank you VERY much--parts are on order :-) Scott, I think Roger got what he surmised was the model # off the machine and may have decoded it by now, so I may indeed be able to get that from him and get the exploded view. Thanks for thinking of that--I forgot all about that and was so engaged with looking up individual numbers...(duh) :-) | ||
| Post# 67247 , Reply# 20 5/18/2005 at 09:53 (6,909 days old) by lbcarguy () | ||
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Tug of war (Kenmore) Yes Jimmy, If you were not there, I would not have believed how much effort it takes to get the shaft out. We should have taken pictures! Sounds like the machine is shaping up. It is very rewarding to see the work pay off. MK in LBC | ||
| Post# 69581 , Reply# 21 6/8/2005 at 09:36 (6,888 days old) by roto204 (Tucson, AZ) | ||
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Oil and caveats
Okay everyone, the spring and seal are in and it's time to tear apart the transmission. Unfortunately, this time Sears didn't include instructions. (Bugger!) I'm guessing the tear-apart of the tranny is fairly straightforward, assuming that all parts are kept track of. Two questions, though (and thank you, thank you, thank you in advance)-- 1.) How much oil goes back in the transmission when you're done, and when/how does it get added? Does it go in through a particular spot, or just get oil poured in it while the case is open? 2.) Likewise, how do you drain it properly? (Or does it all just come out when you take the halves apart on the tranny?) Any caveats you can think of to share when attacking this? Thank you so much! This should be the last issue before painting and reassembly... (fingers crossed) :-) --Nate | ||
| Post# 69582 , Reply# 22 6/8/2005 at 09:51 (6,888 days old) by PeterH770 (Marietta, GA) | ||
The link here it to Unimatic's LK restoration. It might help. If someone has the link to his WP restoration where he actually took the tranny apart, pls post that link!
CLICK HERE TO GO TO PeterH770's LINK | ||
Post# 69585 , Reply# 23 6/8/2005 at 12:29 (6,888 days old) by Gyrafoam  (Wytheville, VA) |
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POR-15 You can go directly to their website and find out where the nearest distributor is. That stuff is WONDERFUL! | ||
| Post# 69587 , Reply# 24 6/8/2005 at 14:08 (6,888 days old) by eddy1210 (Burnaby BC Canada) | ||
can't find the link but here's the pic | ||
| Post# 69675 , Reply# 26 6/9/2005 at 09:38 (6,887 days old) by roto204 (Tucson, AZ) | ||
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Yick!
Hi Eddy! LOL I can actually see EXACTLY where the spring and seal go on that pic--that's pretty neat. It doesn't look complicated, just messy, so I can deal with that. The impression I get is that you fill it with oil such that it just covers up the bottommost parts...almost the concept where "if it's wet and has some in it, it's okay." When I get mine apart, I'll compare notes and see... I'll definitely clean everything in solvent, though. Based on the sheer viscosity of the gunk that came out when the tranny leaked, I'm sure everything's coated in ick. I wonder if Sears sells the tranny oil in a prepackaged container like Maytag, where one container equals one fill... (that'd be convenient...) Thanks again! :-) --Nate | ||
| Post# 69678 , Reply# 27 6/9/2005 at 11:42 (6,887 days old) by fixerman () | ||
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Sears does sell the oil. Part no 350572. $16.49 | ||
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