Motor start capacitor value for a Unimatic machine

I need another replacement motor cap for my 57 Control Tower washer. This one is only about 2 years old. When I got this machine,I had to shim the motor start switch out from the casting slightly, as the felt roller was worn down, and does not contact the switch, as well as replacing the start cap . At any rate, the machine started to act up again a couple months ago, and I figured the start switch was the problem again. I torn into the motor again, and the start switch is ok. The capacitor is fried however. The electrical engineer at work ordered this replacement for me, and I am wondering if it is the correct value for a Unimatic motor.
The specs are: 233-280 MFD 125 VAC 50/60HZ +65Degrees C. The brand name is Cornell Dubilier.

I finally found a place in the basement where I can put this unique set side by side as they should be. I will be moving them in the next week or so, if the repair goes ok.The only problem is, they will be in a place that will be a PITA if anything goes wrong with the washer again. So... I don't want to replace this part again. Or take the motor apart. These are a pain to get to the start switch anyway. The pump has to be removed.

Thanks guys!


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Post# 340175 4/5/2009 at 19:27 (5,492 days old) by rickr (.)
Checkrate/Likes I need another replacement motor cap for my 57 Control Tower washer. This one is only about 2 years old. When I got this machine,I had to shim the motor start switch out from the casting slightly, as the felt roller was worn down, and does not contact the switch, as well as replacing the start cap . At any rate, the machine started to act up again a couple months ago, and I figured the start switch was the problem again. I torn into the motor again, and the start switch is ok. The capacitor is fried however. The electrical engineer at work ordered this replacement for me, and I am wondering if it is the correct value for a Unimatic motor. The specs are: 233-280 MFD 125 VAC 50/60HZ +65Degrees C. The brand name is Cornell Dubilier. I finally found a place in the basement where I can put this unique set side by side as they should be. I will be moving them in the next week or so, if the repair goes ok.The only problem is, they will be in a place that will be a PITA if anything goes wrong with the washer again. So... I don't want to replace this part again. Or take the motor apart. These are a pain to get to the start switch anyway. The pump has to be removed. Thanks guys!

Post# 340301 , Reply# 1 4/6/2009 at 09:02 (5,491 days old) by cornutt (Huntsville, AL USA)
Checkrate/Likes That spec looks OK to me, but I'm not the expert. However, there's no reason why the capacitor has to be right next to the motor. You might want to consider remote mounting it some place else in the cabinet where it will be easier to access if you need to replace it again.

Post# 340355 , Reply# 2 4/6/2009 at 14:33 (5,491 days old) by unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)
Checkrate/Likes 233-280 MFD 125 VAC 50/60HZ That should work just fine Rick, be sure to discharge the old one before touching it.

Post# 340378 , Reply# 3 4/6/2009 at 15:14 (5,491 days old) by rickr (.)
Checkrate/Likes Thanks Guys! Will order another replacement.

Post# 340453 , Reply# 4 4/6/2009 at 19:00 (5,491 days old) by qsd-dan (West)
Checkrate/Likes I was lucky enough to find a USA made capacitor off of ebay for the WCI-63. The ones from appliance stores are all from China. It would be a shame to put a Chinese made part in one of these washers, but if you must...... CLICK HERE TO GO TO qsd-dan's LINK on eBay

Post# 340468 , Reply# 5 4/6/2009 at 19:25 (5,491 days old) by rickr (.)
Checkrate/Likes Thanks for the info Dan. The electrical engineer at work thought it would be best to order a higher voltage rated cap for these machines. He explained that because of the way things were "overbuilt" back in the day, that the original cap was most likely a much higher voltage than it was rated. The replacement cap of two years ago would be only a slightly higher rated voltage than marked on the cap. I explained how the machine operated to him, and he also watched a video of the Unimatic going into spin. He said that a higher voltage rating on the cap would be the best way to go. I told him to go ahead, so he ordered it. Same rating in other ways, just a higher voltage. This is simply like using a heavier power cord. It does not input more voltage into the motor or anything. Just playing it safe in hopes that I do not have to move this machine out of place once it's done this time. BTW: the replacement cap that failed was made in the USA.