Thread Number: 21831
Heating power in washers ( W = V * A)
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Post# 343297   4/18/2009 at 11:32 (5,479 days old) by favorit ()        

Help me understand : for what I know it' power that counts.

A 1100 W element heats up the same way, regardless it is 110 V / 10 A or 220 V / 5 A

Once in a trade exibition I saw a Filter Flo & atching dryer.
This dryer (note 220 V) a 5600 W heater , that's nearly as double the max available power (3,3 KW) avilable in a average italian household.

Just wonder if this dryer had the same 5600 W power in the US 110 V version and if all electric heated US dryers have such high power coils.





Post# 343317 , Reply# 1   4/18/2009 at 12:33 (5,479 days old) by vivalalavatrice ()        
double the max available power (3,3 KW) avilable in a averag

Carlo,
3Kw is the standard
4,5Kw is an intemediate power available
6Kw is the power some house have for big charges

Then ENEL provide you with a 10% of plus so 3,3Kw, 5Kw, 6,6Kw

So with a simple 10A on a circuit of 6Kw you can chare up to 6600W

Diomede


Post# 343324 , Reply# 2   4/18/2009 at 13:07 (5,479 days old) by tristarcxl ()        

US electric dryers operate on 220V. We have 30 amp plugs for them, and a pretty typical element size is somewhere around 4500W. 4500W/220V=20.45A. Some areas have 240V instead of 220 (this house has 240) so the current would work out to be about 18A.

Some dryers have bigger elements in them, but the one I've got is a 4500W unit.


Post# 343326 , Reply# 3   4/18/2009 at 13:18 (5,479 days old) by dj-gabriele ()        

Diomede, that is very wrong!

A 10 amp circuit can't supply no more than 10 amps of current.
Being as said P= V * I = V^2/R and V = R * I
So at nominal 230V it is 2300 watts of power
at 110V it would be no more than 1100 watts otherwise there is a circuit overheating or thermal switch cut off or fuse blowing.

6600 Watts of power at 230V are 30Amps of current flowing in the wires! Three times what you just said.

As far as I know all american dryers with those big coils run at 220V split phase hot to hot connection, isn't it? with ground and neutral (for the parts needing only 110V).
110V circuits are limited to only either 15 or 20 amperes of current (that is 1650 and 2200W respectively)

Anyway, running an element rated 5600W at 220V (25Amps), with a voltage of 110 produces only P=V^2/R=1400Watts with half current flow.


Post# 343333 , Reply# 4   4/18/2009 at 13:41 (5,479 days old) by launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Keep In Mind

launderess's profile picture
At least in North America appliances modern code frowns upon appliances pulling more than 80% max of the ciruct.

Thus from a 20amp/120 (or 110) circut one should not pull the full 2400 watts of power for continous and or long periods, but rather about 1920 watts.

It all comes down to the wiring. If the wiring was sized a grade or two above the circut, one *may* get away with certian things. However, especially in older homes, it is not uncommon to find say a 20amp or even 30 amp fuse but the wiring was left in place for 10amps. Sooner or later pulling too much power for the wires is going to cause them to over heat/melt and cause a fire.


Post# 343343 , Reply# 5   4/18/2009 at 15:04 (5,479 days old) by mielabor ()        

Diomede, is this 10A, 6KW supply a three phase 400V connection?

Post# 343373 , Reply# 6   4/18/2009 at 17:13 (5,479 days old) by favorit ()        

no, it is not 10 A, as it is a single phase supply @ 220 V.

In my home we got it to run the old G507 (3300 W) and the W780 (3200 W) in the meanwhile.

A few years ago we had the 780 switched to run with the 2000 W coil only, so in case of need we can run both the W780 and the W844 in the meanwhile with the Favorit (2200 W)

We 've three phase feeds only in commercial/industrial supplies

I read on the german forum of a vintage miele with a monster 6000w coil. The owner wrote it boiled water from tap cold by 5/6 mins



Post# 343378 , Reply# 7   4/18/2009 at 17:51 (5,479 days old) by favorit ()        
the real core of my question was

" If US dryers have a 4500 W coil @ 220 V, why US washers can't have a 2000 W one as -i.e.- the european version of the Duet ?? "

Actually Launderess answered me in the Miele Usa thread (modern board) : 220 V lines aren't so common/allowed everywhere in the US and gas dryers are quite common

IMHO Gas dryers are more energy efficent, it's a pity that here the only household one we had here (miele T478 G) has been discontinued recently (think because of the latest gas safety norms)

Everytime energy changes its form, there is a loss in efficency.
In oil power stations there is : burning --->heat--->steam--->mechanical--->electric. Each step has a loss
So in an electric heated dryer/washer there is a further loss : electric-->heat.
Gas heated machines have just one step gas combustion-->heat

this makes sense why in some commercial laundries not only dryers, but even washer and ironers are gas heated


Post# 343385 , Reply# 8   4/18/2009 at 18:44 (5,479 days old) by tristarcxl ()        
It depends....

220V isn't common for washers simply due to the fact that 120V is the standard voltage here. We have large tank-type water heaters, and usually the hot water is sufficient to launder the clothes without much issue.

Gas dryers are faster to dry, but not necessarily more efficient. It depends heavily on where the gas is coming from, how the electricity was generated, and how the heating medium is being put to use. It was missed in the gas step that the gas had to be refined, pressurized, dried, processed, and transported (all of which are expensive and massive energy wasters).

Commercial laundries use gas simply due to the electrical load. If every dryer was electric, you'd have to have an electrical feed the size of your leg to supply the building with enough power to run all those appliances at once!

In all reality, it depends on where you live what works better. Down here gas actually costs MORE than electricity! Go figure! So it's actually cheaper ( at least in this town ) to run electric appliances instead of gas.

Electric dryers have one additional benefit: No nasty "gas smell" when the clothes are done. I had a gas dryer in my old apartment, and the laundry always emerged with the telltale smell of "gas" in them. I'll never have another gas dryer simply for that reason. Yuck!


Post# 343393 , Reply# 9   4/18/2009 at 18:58 (5,479 days old) by launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        

launderess's profile picture
Haven't seen gas ironers or washing machines used much commercially, but then again I wouldn't would I?

Steam from a central boiler is used quite often in commercial laundries. Stuff heats everything from irons, to ironers, to dryers, to washing machines and anything else requiring heat.



Post# 343450 , Reply# 10   4/19/2009 at 05:29 (5,479 days old) by foraloysius (Leeuwarden, Friesland, the Netherlands)        

foraloysius's profile picture
Carlo,

Running a over 3000 Watts appliance on a 10 Amps connection is dangerous and would lead to a shortage due to overusing the circuit. It could cause a fire in the system, so be careful.

Now to your original question, a 5600 Watts dryer on a 110 Volts circuit is simply impossible. Dryers with such a wattage all run on 220 Volts in the USA. To run such a dryer you would need a 51 Amps circuit. A bigger problems would be wires for so much power. I don't think there are thick enough wires in normal houses to handle that wattage with that voltage. You need thicker wires at 110 Volts than at 220 Volts with 5600 Watts.



Post# 343454 , Reply# 11   4/19/2009 at 06:26 (5,479 days old) by vivalalavatrice ()        
Diomede, that is very wrong!

SORRY!!! :((
Maths has never been my best LOL!

I meant... with a 6Kw power provided you can charge until 6600W with a minimun of 30A

:)
Diomede


Post# 343462 , Reply# 12   4/19/2009 at 07:33 (5,478 days old) by foraloysius (Leeuwarden, Friesland, the Netherlands)        

foraloysius's profile picture
Diomede, it still doesn't make sense. 6Kw is 6000 Watts, you can't make that more or less.

Voltage x Amps = Watts

So if you have 230 Volts and 30 Amps that makes 6900 Watts.


Post# 343467 , Reply# 13   4/19/2009 at 08:07 (5,478 days old) by favorit ()        

Thanks Louis, anyway there's no problem : each appliance of mine is connected to its own 16 A circuit, overpower switch, shortage safety switch (RCD)

Before moving to this home we had its wirings totally remade, even in order to bear those vintage german 3000 W appliances (oven, W , DW) and had a 6KW supply from ENEL (el.co.)

Anyway, as Diomede wrote, if I'd go over the max 6,6 KW available (even just by 10/20 W over), the electric co. power metering device would switch off

Back to the GE dryer I so @ Milan fair 20years ago :
it was too early for dryers here and those 5600W didn't help.
GE now here sells only french door fridges




Post# 343597 , Reply# 14   4/19/2009 at 20:51 (5,478 days old) by toggleswitch2 ()        

~If US dryers have a 4,500w coil @ 220v, why can't U.S. washers have a 2,000w one as would the European version of the Duet?

They can, but WHY? And what would they plug-in to?
Let me explain.

The typical laundry room here has a 110v 20 amp line for the washer (say 2,200w MAX). If there is no gas line for the dryer the laundry room will have a 220v 30a line for the dryer (say 6,600w max).

The reason we need a special heavy-duty 220 volt line for the dryer is that you can't squeeze enough wattage through a 20a line at 110v to have a fast dryer. This may explain why all of our dryers are typically vented. We don't DO conderser dryer here. If you have to facilitate (and pre-plan) a special electrical line, you would also facilitate venting requirements at the same time.

Stated another way, in 220v lands your clothes dryers are plug-and-play; they can be plugged in anywhere and work. Here we need a special line in that 220v is the exception and used only for high-draw heating appliances, and for space-cooling as well.

So in order to have a 220 washer here:

1- There must be an unused dryer outlet designed for an electric dryer.
2- The washer circuit must be a dedicated / separate 20a line which is then convertible to 220v. It should be noted that when a gas dryer is used, a normal US washer and dryer share a 110v 20a line/circuit.
3- We would have to run a new and separate line.

Culturally speaking, the need for a heater in washers never existed and the need for one is not yet believed to exist. T op-loading US washer were large-capacity, fast, cleaned very well and excelled at mud and grease removal--things which require WATER--and lots of it. Yes front-loaders do remove some stains very well, but --trust me-- when I had to wash moldy and mildewed fabrics that had surived a flood there was no question as to which type of machine got the clothes REALLY fresh and clean. For truly thoroughly filthy clothes you just need water, lots of water, plain and simple.


Post# 343614 , Reply# 15   4/19/2009 at 21:52 (5,478 days old) by alr2903 (TN)        

Telltale gas smell? We now have a gas dryer, the only difference i noticed between gas and electric is the speed of drying. I do not detect any smell any different, than laundry dried in our electric dryer for the past 20 years. Can anyone else tell when clothes are dried in gas or electric? alr2903

Post# 343620 , Reply# 16   4/19/2009 at 22:12 (5,478 days old) by toggleswitch2 ()        

I can smell the gas, or actually the byproducts of combustion only when the door is opened mid-cycle. For me once the cool-down at the end has taken place, there is no noticable difference.

Propane may be worse than natural gas, however.

On some gas-heated machines you can notice the yellowing of the area where the heated air enters the dryer, usually the rear bulkhead "mesh".

If I had to vote, I'd say electric is cleaner overall, with gas being greener (unless your electric is hydro-electric or solar) and a bit gentler in that one of the normal byproducts of gas combustion is water vapor.


CH4 + O2 => Heat + CO2 + H20



Post# 343623 , Reply# 17   4/19/2009 at 23:18 (5,478 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
US VOLTAGE

combo52's profile picture
IN THE US WE HAVE 115-120 VOLTS & 230-240 VOLTS IN OUR HOMES NOT 110-220 THIER IS A BIG DIFFERENCE . MANY APARTMENTS CONDS DO HAVE 120-208 VOLT POWER HOWEVER

Post# 343638 , Reply# 18   4/20/2009 at 02:01 (5,478 days old) by launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        

launderess's profile picture
Please do not shout.

L.


Post# 343641 , Reply# 19   4/20/2009 at 02:35 (5,478 days old) by launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        

launderess's profile picture
There is not that much of a difference between 115/110v/120v or 220v/230v/240v. Appliances designed to run on 240v are normally quite happy on 220v or 230v. Miele sells several appliances, including their large commercial washing machines which have 240v on their electrical plate, but run just fine on USA 220v power.

Multiple family dwellings (apartment buildings, and so forth), may or may not have 220v power coming into each unit, it all depends upon how things are wired from the conduit to the building's main panel and on up to the circuit breaker or fuse box for each unit.

IIRC, many homes in the USA get 220v power from the electric company to their panel, where it is split into two, providing 110v power. If a circuit requires 220v power two lines in the panel are made into "one" thus giving the proper amount.

Apartment buildings and other homes may have 220v power coming into the building, but it is distributed as 110v to each unit's fuse box/panel. This is where many persons wishing to install European laundry and kitchen appliances, or even anything else running on 220v power found a nasty and expensive surprise. Not only didn't their apartment have the proper power, it doesn't even come into their building. This requires major electrical work both to bring the proper power in from the street to the main panel, then wiring to bring that power up to the unit.

Again, the above battle Miele fought with countless persons who wanted their appliances, but either could not or would not expend the effort and funds to have 220v power where there was none.

As for the battle between gas and electric, remember not every area of the USA had the luxury of both gas and electric service. Often while there was electric service, gas was not piped to their area or street. Wanting to have such service would require the gas company to lay pipes, something they often would not do for just one customer on block, that is unless there was a pipe already running past their house.

As coal was phased out for heating and hot water fuel, many homes, especially in the Northeast went to oil. This could mean electric was used for the dryer and range. There was a big fear that gas would cause one's home to "blow up", a thing some still believe. Also until recently, oil was much cheaper than natural gas in most areas of the USA.

ToggleSwitch makes a good point: USA housewives by and large stopped boiling their laundry once automatic washing machines came upon the scene, while it was common to see boil washes in the UK and Europe up until rather recently. There simply wasn't a perceived need for a washing machine that heated water.

Most laundry rooms, or at least the washing machine, in the USA was located near the source of hot water. This meant basements, or kitchen areas. Either way the hot water from the central tank, (which could also be on the ground floor), didn't have to travel very far. Given the vast amount of water top loaders used, even if the first gallon was cool or tepid, the balance would be hot enough. What the hot water did not take care of in terms of cleaning, stain removal and whitening, Americans added LCB, gallons of the stuff to get the job done.


European homes, including apartment flats OTHO generally required eletric power in greater amounts than on this side of the pond because of several factors.

First, aside from coal, there isn't that much in the way of natural resources such as petrol, aside from UK and northern countries. It is still quite common to find flats in the UK and Europe without central heating, and certianly without central hot water boilers. One installs such things when one fits out the flat. So consider there may be one, two or more hot water heaters, electric "space" heaters, perhaps the range, a washing machine, perhaps a dryer, along with everything else that ran on electric power. Right there alone you are going to have a larger power need than most American homes/flats.



Post# 343645 , Reply# 20   4/20/2009 at 04:11 (5,478 days old) by tolivac (greenville nc)        

Multiple family buildings-usually are fed with 208/120V 3 phase power-at least in the US.Heavy loads such as ranges,HVAC equipment,dryers run from the 208V voltage.Phase to neutral gives you 120V.This allows the loads to be balanced on each phase.Power companies like that.If you look on the back of the building you will typically find a ground mount distribution transformer that steps the dist voltage-anywhere from 2500V-31,000V to 208/120V 3ph.A few apartment buildings are fed with 480V 3ph-runs the large building HVAC-and another transformer in the basement of the building steps 480V 3ph to 208/120.I lived in such an apartment house.For individual apartments its common for the AC and the range to run off 208V-they will run just fine-many landlords order appliances just made for 208V.If you run the 220-240V range from 208V The burners won't run as hot-cooking times will be longer-same with a 220-240V clothes dryer.sometimes the compresser in the apt AC runs from 208V 3 phase.The fans run from 208V single phase or 120V.As far as power feeds go 208/120V is the most common used commercial and multiple residentual power source.
Next is 480/277V.


Post# 343683 , Reply# 21   4/20/2009 at 10:46 (5,477 days old) by tristarcxl ()        

Unless fitted with commercial-grade appliances, stuff in apartments or family dwellings don't run off 3-phase. Very large HVAC equipment or common liquid chillers might, but normal split systems will not.

While 3-phase power is brought into the building, it is transformed as single phase. Each phase powering so many dwellings to keep the phases balanced. It's the same principle the power company uses when hooking up houses off the lines. If you ever see exposed power lines in a neighborhood, look how the transformers are hooked to the houses. Each house is on a different phase. That's to keep the lines balanced.

The 240/120 setup in American homes comes from a center-tapped transformer....not from a phase-phase setup. It is all single phase with a split secondary winding in the transformer on the pole. From either end of the secondary to the center tap is 120V. From line to line on the secondary gives you 240V. That is why you have 3 wires coming into your fuse box. 2 are 120, the 3rd is the center tap or "neutral". Neutral is grounded both at the pole and at the ground strap at the main distribution panel.

When you have a 240v circuit in the US, it always involves 2 fuses or a double-ganged circuit breaker. This bridges the 2 120v busses to create the 240v required for the appliance. All 240V appliances in the US are either 3 or 4 wire. 3 wire gives you the 2 "hot" wires and the "neutral" wire. 4 wire adds a ground wire.

It is extremely uncommon to have 3-phase appliances in a home setting....even in multiple dwellings. The cost is extremely high and the benefit of using 3 phase is negated with the relatively small power draw. Many high current draw devices such as stoves, heaters, dryers, or water heaters can't run off 3 phase anyway. Resistance heating is single phase unless multiple elements are paralleled across the phases. You normally don't see that except for in restaurants where lots of high powered appliances reside in one place.


Post# 343864 , Reply# 22   4/21/2009 at 03:27 (5,477 days old) by tolivac (greenville nc)        

In one of the apartments I lived in-the Luxaire HVAC unit specified that the compressor ran from 208V 3Ph. I was surprized to see that as well.The building was very large-8 stories-and had two 208/120V 1200Amp feeder transformers.the primary voltage was 13,820V-provided by PEPCO.The unit was in my large 1 bedroom apartment.the studio apartment compressors ran from 208V single phase.The heat in the large apartment was gas.In the small apartment it was electric.In the utility room of the building-the power was divided into "risers"each 3 phase feeding each floor.This is a standard in large apartment and condo buildings.the building engineer gave me the grand "tour" of the goings on in the buildings in the complex.Each one had two 3p 208/120V transmformers.One transformer fed one half of the building-the other-the other half.Another apratment building it was smaller-had the 480/277V 3ph transformer out side the back of the buiulding.the 480V-208/120V transformer was in the basemewnt in a transformer room.All of the apartments I lived in had gas ranges.That second building-by a diffrent landlord had a central liquid water chiller system-the 480v ran the chillers.All multiple family buildings I have lived in or seen had 3 phase power.It would be just too unecenomical to feed them the standard residentual 240/120V single phase power.Some very large (mansions) have 3 phase power as well-again 208/120V 3 ph.the HVAC in those homes is too large to run from standard single phase power.At one of the radio stations I worked at the station owners home was big enough to run from 208-120V 3 phase.I had to wire the motors in his workshop tools for the 208V 3 phase.also the organ blower motor for his pipe organ he had installed in the house ran from 3 ph 208V.

Post# 343865 , Reply# 23   4/21/2009 at 03:42 (5,477 days old) by dj-gabriele ()        

Help me please! I always get confused :D

In the USA coexist

1- 110/115/120V for small appliances
2- 208V 3phase
3- 220/230/240 single (split) phase, hot to hot
4- 480/277V 3phase

isn't it?


Post# 343866 , Reply# 24   4/21/2009 at 03:46 (5,477 days old) by dadoes (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
As discussed in the past, my parents' house has 3-phase HVAC. Single-family house, residential area. The house was wired that way in 1972, don't know why.

Post# 343873 , Reply# 25   4/21/2009 at 05:51 (5,477 days old) by tolivac (greenville nc)        

Many farms are wired for three phase power for that matter.
for the voltages---
208/120V 3 ph you get 208V if you go phase to phase.you get 120V if you go from phase to neutral or ground-In the US Neutrals are grounded.
For 220-110V this means 220V across the two "hot leads going into the home from the power feed.you get 110V if you go from one hot lead to ground or neutral.You are connected to the secondary of the distribution transformer provided by the power compant that steps their distribution voltage to the low voltage for the building or household The secondary of the transformer is center tapped-the center tap is grounded and is the neutral.Wish I could draw it here-but can't-The two "Hot lines from the transformer are the hot sides of the winding.Across both you get 220V go from on or the other to neutral you get 110.For 230V you would get 115V.For 240V (Most commonly used now)you get 120V from hot to neutral.
480/277V 3 ph is used mostly for commercvial and industrial buildings-many motors and industrial machines run from 480V 3 ph.the 277 is the voltage you get from phase to neutral.In these buildings the 277V is commonly used to run flourescent lights and HID lights.that is one way to tell if the building has 480/277-If you find flourescent lamp fixtures marked "for 277V" that the place has the 480V feed.The 277V primary voltage for lighting is now common in the US.Its easy for electricans to wire and it can be used to balance lighting loads in the buildings evenly.In 208V equipped buildings the lamp fixtures run from 120V.It is also common in many 480V fed buildings to have another transformer to step down the 480V to get 208/120V for the 208V and 120V appliances.Another reason dist transformer secondary neutrals are grounded is safety-if the transformer has a primary to sec winding short-the fuse or breaker on the transformer primary is blown immiediately-this prevents the dist voltage from appearing in the building wiring.Occasionaly these shorts happen.Just means you have no power until the fuse and dist transformer is replaced by the power company.Bad lightening storms can do it.


Post# 344013 , Reply# 26   4/21/2009 at 20:57 (5,476 days old) by toggleswitch2 ()        

Gabriele:

#1 Is found in all North American homes (Assuming they have electricity!)

#3 Is found in MOST homes. (But not my old apartment)!

#2 is found in all industrial and commercial settings and some larger / newer homes.

#4 Is found in larger commerical/retail/industrial settings but NOT ALLOWED in homes.

#4 Requires different wire colors (brown and golds IIRC) to differentiate it from "typical" wiring (i.e. voltages).


Post# 344059 , Reply# 27   4/22/2009 at 01:49 (5,476 days old) by launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        

launderess's profile picture
One must assume the reason behind most American homes having only 120v (or 110v, 115v) power is that by and large initial electric power use was for lighting, small appliances and then some major appliances such as fridges, and perhaps ranges. With most heat generating appliances such as dryers, ranges, ovens, hot water heaters, heating et all, running on gas or oil.

While all electric homes were found, they often were the product of power companies and government trying to get people into "modern" living, and away from the old school way.

L.



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