Thread Number: 25321
My Kenmore Elite Catalyst washer is haunted!
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Post# 390362   11/2/2009 at 23:41 (5,260 days old) by revvinkevin (Tinseltown - Shakey Town - La-La Land)        

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Hello all!

I've this 1999 or 2000 (not sure, the model/serial tag is missing) KM Elite Catalyst washer since January of this year. So far it's been a good machine and I've been very pleased with it. It's had this "occasional" bug which I've always been able to work around until now.

I say it's haunted because now any time I plug it in, it lights up as if I've got my finger on the "regular" cycle button. If I push "Stop/Cancel" all the lights will go out as long as I hold it, but as soon as I let go, it lights up again as if the "ghost" is holding the button.

I can press ANY other button, cycle, water level or temp, any of them and it will change as long as I hold it, but the second I let go, it reverts back to the default "Regular" cycle.

Also if I press "Start" and try to start the machine, I just get an "F3" error code flashing on the display.

I'm only into the machine $50 so... #1. I don't know I want to put a lot into it and... #2. I really don't want to just "throw it away" either. But if I can't get it fixed at a reasonable cost, I don't know what else I could do.

HELP!

Do any of you have any suggestions or ideas on what to do?

Thank you in advance!
Kevin





Post# 390374 , Reply# 1   11/3/2009 at 00:33 (5,260 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Fairfield, CA)        

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like I said in the email, my money's on it having a bad membraine/keypad. You'd have to look at the diagnostic manual that hopefully is still in the machine either in the console or in a clear packet glued to the inside of the cabinet (Whirlpool was fond of doing this...) but I'll bet F3 is the machine telling you that it's detecting a shorted/stuck key.... Now the only question is how much are you willing to spend on the part?

RCD


Post# 390404 , Reply# 2   11/3/2009 at 06:40 (5,259 days old) by toggleswitch2 ()        

No solutions for you, sorry. But I can empathise.

I bought a brand new GE MOL (read: water-hog) DW to replace a gorgeous SS tall-tub KA. The KA was the first year or so of the new engineering and left behind horroble yibbles and bits. Anyhoooo... the GE ran flawlwessly through its maiden voyage. The very last minute of hot dry, rahter than turn off the machine, the display panel lit up like a christmas tree. Getting the machine to start after that was hit-and-miss. Sometimes it would, and other times it refused.

I was so spooked that I intalled a hard-power-down switch under the kitchen sink. Didn't trust the control panel. It took GE about 5 attempts (and so many months) to repalce various parts to no avial. I finally got pissed-off (that means angry in America; not drunk) and threw a hissy-fit (made a scene). Got them to give me a new machine, which was installed for me shortly thereafter.

In my case it was not the board alone.



Post# 390438 , Reply# 3   11/3/2009 at 09:48 (5,259 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()        

make sure all of the wires of the membrane have good contact with the computer board terminals.

Post# 390442 , Reply# 4   11/3/2009 at 10:26 (5,259 days old) by kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC)        

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This is why I very much DISLIKE electronic appliances. I can't see the value in having this stuff vs. just a well-built timer and pheripherals. I guess 'well-built' is the clincher there these days.

Here in NC it is code to have a dishwasher power switch at well level with ceiling light switches in the kitchen. I keep the power OFF to my GE Profile tall-tub dishwasher all the time to protect it, and turn it on while the door is open, then I close it. Usually the machine beeps and is ready to start, but occasionally when I close the door the motor will start up in cancel/drain phase, etc. Last weekend two cycle lights came on at once and the motor again was running. I had to cut the power to get it to do anything, then start over. What a heap of crap...I am hoping it fries then I can replace it with a standard Whirlpool before they quit making them.

As to your situation Kevin, the only thing you might be able to do without a model number is see if there is a part number on the membrane pad and the boards in the machine, and see what they will cost at your parts dealer. Either that or see if you can find a parts donor. I hate that for ya Kevin, I know you like that machine...

Gordon


Post# 390536 , Reply# 5   11/3/2009 at 18:27 (5,259 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()        

touch panels

CLICK HERE TO GO TO supremewhirlpol's LINK


Post# 390539 , Reply# 6   11/3/2009 at 18:36 (5,259 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()        
The ugly truth

Touch panels are not cheap to replace. Here is a model number you can reference: 11022054100

CLICK HERE TO GO TO supremewhirlpol's LINK


Post# 390585 , Reply# 7   11/4/2009 at 00:11 (5,259 days old) by revvinkevin (Tinseltown - Shakey Town - La-La Land)        

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Thank you for your suggestions!!!

I was able to pick up a used control panel (in white) with the main circuit board tonight (free Woo Hoo!). Though he told me the diagnostics told them the main circuit board is shot. All I may need is the touch pad membrane anyway!

I'm going to check all the connections in a few days... maybe I'll get lucky and that's all it will be is dirty contacts. (fingers crossed!)

Kevin


Post# 390821 , Reply# 8   11/4/2009 at 19:12 (5,258 days old) by tnmike (Knoxville, Tennessee)        

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I have a friend whose same model will not turn on at all. We checked the tech sheet and tested all the suggested connectors for power and everything was fine. We could never get the diagnostic test to start either. Nothing lights up. Tech sheet recommends replacing touch panel. Not been able to find one online used...machine definitely not worth buying new. Anyone have any suggestions?


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