Thread Number: 25422
KD21 Tech Tip two - Pump Top Fine Filter fix 		[Down to Last]

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Post# 391701   11/8/2009 at 19:35 (5,275 days old) by jdexter ()        

Salutations:

First up - lost the damned photos in transit to the harddrive.

So, this is going require some imagination and alot more words. Sorry. It might help to print it out and look carefully at the pump top as you read along.

I was able to replace the shredded pump filter on our KitchenAid KD21 Whisper Quite Superba using commercial Silk Screening material and automotive 'SealAll'. About $10 and two hours all in.

My understanding is that this will improve performance and eliminate the chance that something solid will get into the pump, jaming it and/or burning the motor.

This discusses the older style Hobart type pump housing, I don't know if it will work on the newer ones - but it might.

First - carefully remove the five centre screws so they don't drop into the pump through the holes where your fines filter screen is supposed to be.

I used a magnetic screwdriver, loosened them off about 4 turns - then spun them out by hand. They are shorter than the set of screws on the outside ring of the pump top.

Then - carefully remove the outer screws, which are about twice as long. Same procedure as above, all screws are Phillips head.

They are very course thread stainless - so be careful not to lose them - they will be hard to replace.

The tricky part is now removing the pump top without breaking the now very brittle plastic tynes or cracking the inner or outer filter rings.

If you figure it's really stuck on, don't bother removing the top and glue the new filter in place (outlined below) with the pump top in the machine. You'll get a neater job with it out, but it should be OK with it in.

There is a small ledge on the inside ring of the pump top and most likely - this is where it is sticking. So, a little penetrating oil around the centre ring where it meets the shaft cap and let it sit for an hour or so.

Then, remove whatever is left of your original fine filter material so you can get to the inside of the centre ring.

Using a small body panel pry or a large flat screwdriver - gently coax the centre ring up by applying even leverage against the underside in small increments, while moving your pry around the pump top through the filter frame.

It's not threaded to the shaft - it seems to be press fitted on the shaft cap against an 1/16 inch o-ring. Again, the problem is that the pump top is brittle and that means it can crack very easily.

Mine was cemented in place with years of fine food particles and sugar - so it was a matter of levering the centre ring upward carefully until it moved freely.

So as not to crack larger outer ring, I put a thick rag under the shaft of my pry as I was working against it - but don't worry about having to pry the larger outside ring later. It should just come free with a little tug once you have the smaller centre ring moving freely.

From here, I cleaned off what was left of the filter material and noted the filter is actually pressed between two parts that had long since welded themselves together.

Not a problem, as the repair is to glue a new sheet to the top of the pump using glue and the pump screws to secure the new filter - but it was interesting to see the quality in the OEM build.

Anyway, At this point I cleaned the pumptop off with a little acetone to make sure there was no grease or oil left, then carefully applied a bead of SealAll glue around the centre and outer rings, around the outside of the screw holes and the overflow/snorkle(?) hole at the back and up and down the tynes.

Then, I laid the sheet of silk screen material on the pump top, pulled it flat and pressed it down so the glue started to come up through the screen. Then, I dabbed some SealAll on my finger and pressed it into the screen where it mated to the glue bead on the housing.

Little dabs and smaller fingers are better as you don't want to block the new filter with glue. But be warned, SealAll is hard to get off fingers later.

I doubled checked that the glue sealed the filter to the pump top all around and then let it sit for another hour.

Lastly, using a fine exacto knife, I cut off the excess screen around the outside and inside rings, cleared the screw holes and the snorkle/overflow(?) hole - checking that the screen was firmly glued in place along all the tynes and the ring surfaces. If it had come loose while drying, I would have dabbed on another coat of glue where needed.

Finally, dropped the pump top back in place and carefully screwed it down, starting with the inner ring at alternating holes. Sort of like putting a cylinder head back on.

One last thing to be careful about here - don't force the screws in.

If they are hard to turn, stop immediatly, back it off and try again. They are very course thread and if you can re-spin so they use the original threading in the pump housing - you are less likely to crack it when you run the screw back home.

SealAll is specifically meant for harsh chemical environments and good to 150 degrees. It hardens to a shine and should hold up for several decades to come if applied on clean (Acetone washed) surfaces.

Silk Screen material (I used 124 threads per inch - although that is finer than OEM) is equally tough and after shrinking minutely on first heating - should hold up for several years to come.

Cheers and best wishes - Tech Tip one regarding re-lube for the timer and buttons after it has been siting for while is below:

Jon

CLICK HERE TO GO TO jdexter's LINK



Post# 391821 , Reply# 1   11/9/2009 at 10:10 (5,274 days old) by rollermatic (cincinnati)        
thanks for the tip

 rollermatic's profile picture
i have a 21 in my kitchenaid collection, good to know it can be done. love homemade remedies for old appliance problems!


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