Thread Number: 25642
Restoring my Maytag 124 Automatic Washer
[Down to Last]

automaticwasher.org's exclusive eBay Watch:
scroll >>> for more items --- [As an eBay Partner, eBay may compensate automaticwasher.org if you make a purchase using any link to eBay on this page]
Post# 394458   11/19/2009 at 10:00 (5,268 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        

brianl's profile picture
In the beginning of this week, I became the proud owner of a 1961 Maytag Model 124 Washer. Apparently it was in use from that time of purchase up until last year when the owner past. Her son gave me the washer and dryer combo she had. It seems to cycle correctly, but unfortunately the valves do not close properly and let the hot and cold through. Even the mixing valve does not seem to seat properly as the same thing happened on the warm setting. All 3 solenoids work though. I tried doing what I thought was a thorough cleaning on the cold, hot, & mixing valves, but only managed to slow the cold flow down, although significantly. The cold solenoid was missing a spring, so I borrowed it from the hot for testing, but still am a spring short. Basically I would like to get replacement solenoids, springs, valves, etc. If someone is really good at refurbishing these, I would be open to that too. I would really like to get it working properly and eventually get to the cosmetic part of restoration. Unfortunately no pics taken yet.

Thanks!!





Post# 394468 , Reply# 1   11/19/2009 at 10:30 (5,268 days old) by unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

unimatic1140's profile picture
Order Gemline GVW-1000 water valve repair kit from you appliance part store. You will need two of them since your valve has three solenoids. Page 35 in their catalog...

CLICK HERE TO GO TO unimatic1140's LINK


Post# 394474 , Reply# 2   11/19/2009 at 10:54 (5,268 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        
Thank you for the info!!

brianl's profile picture
You wouldn't know by any chance what the part GEM part number is as I might just want to replace those as well for good measure since they have rust on 2 of them?

Post# 394480 , Reply# 3   11/19/2009 at 11:02 (5,268 days old) by unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

unimatic1140's profile picture
GVW-1000 is the part number of the kit you need which has the plungers, springs, seats and stems all in the kit. As I said you will need two kits for a 3 solenoid valve.

Post# 394485 , Reply# 4   11/19/2009 at 11:16 (5,268 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        

brianl's profile picture
, I missed putting the word "solenoid" in there. Those are what could stand to use a replacement too.

Thanks!


Post# 394494 , Reply# 5   11/19/2009 at 11:42 (5,268 days old) by bobbyderegis (Boston)        

There you go Brian. Ask and you shall receive. Any comments on why Maytag thermostatic mixing valves crap out fairly often? The warm setting of 100 degrees usually fails, leaving only cold water to come out. Any remedy for this?
Bobby in Boston


Post# 394574 , Reply# 6   11/19/2009 at 17:43 (5,268 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        
Rebuild, or.....

qsd-dan's profile picture
Post# 394725 , Reply# 7   11/20/2009 at 12:15 (5,267 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        
Thanks for the find!!

brianl's profile picture
Just curious how you can see that is for mine. I cannot tell too good from the pic and obviously it is different from the original one I have. I trust your judgment though!

Hey Unimatic1140,

I was able to order the valve repair kit from Gemline today along with some other parts I needed. Thanks for your help as well!

Brian


Post# 394736 , Reply# 8   11/20/2009 at 13:20 (5,267 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        

swestoyz's profile picture
Strange - IIRC the 124 came with a standard two solenoid valve. Are there three seperate wires to power all three solenoids? Maybe you have a 142.... chance we could get a photo of the machine?

Irregardless - you certainly can rebuild the valves. :D

Ben


Post# 394748 , Reply# 9   11/20/2009 at 14:30 (5,267 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        
You're right!

brianl's profile picture
That was my fault, it is a Maytag Model 142, not 124. For some reason, I keep wanting to switch the numbers around. There are 3 separate wires all with a common. For the hot, it is orange & yellow. For the cold, it is white & yellow. For warm, it is blue & yellow. It seems odd that the cold has white & the warm blue. I did test it though, and the white and yellow engage the solenoid if I do cold, and the blue & yellow engage only when I do the warm setting. All 3 solenoids work although they are getting a bit noisy. I am not sure if that is due to the calcium buildup on them, but nonetheless, they do all work and have a magnetic pull.

Does anyone have a parts book or anything on it, as I only have the User's manual that originally came with the machine and a basic generic service manual. While helpful I would like to know part numbers and perhaps some type of detailed service manual so I don't screw anything up. E-mail version would be fine or if someone has a hard copy, I would pay for the shipping. I will try to take and post some pics this evening before I leave for my trip to Boston tonight. I also have the "matching" dryer; model DE606.

Thanks,
Brian


Post# 394780 , Reply# 10   11/20/2009 at 17:27 (5,267 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        

brianl's profile picture
Front Of Washer

Post# 394781 , Reply# 11   11/20/2009 at 17:27 (5,267 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        

brianl's profile picture
Inside Washer Basket

Post# 394782 , Reply# 12   11/20/2009 at 17:28 (5,267 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        

brianl's profile picture
Inside Washer Basket 2

Post# 394783 , Reply# 13   11/20/2009 at 17:29 (5,267 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        

brianl's profile picture
Timer Dial

Post# 394784 , Reply# 14   11/20/2009 at 17:30 (5,267 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        

brianl's profile picture
Right Side Of Panel

Post# 394785 , Reply# 15   11/20/2009 at 17:31 (5,267 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        

brianl's profile picture
Left Side Of Panel

Post# 394786 , Reply# 16   11/20/2009 at 17:33 (5,267 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        

brianl's profile picture
Behind The Front Panel. Notice the valve assembly in the back on the ground. Forgot to take closeup pic of it.

Post# 394787 , Reply# 17   11/20/2009 at 17:33 (5,267 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        

brianl's profile picture
Behind The Front Panel Also

Post# 394788 , Reply# 18   11/20/2009 at 17:34 (5,267 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        

brianl's profile picture
One Of The Solenoids & Valves

Post# 394789 , Reply# 19   11/20/2009 at 17:35 (5,267 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        

brianl's profile picture
My GE Filter-Flo Closed

Post# 394790 , Reply# 20   11/20/2009 at 17:36 (5,267 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        

brianl's profile picture
My GE Filter-Flo Open

Post# 394809 , Reply# 21   11/20/2009 at 20:10 (5,267 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Water valve for MT 142

combo52's profile picture
Dan the picture your link shows a three soinoid non thermostatic WP valve. Larry @ modern pts in ohio still has new valves for this machine Its not worth rebuilding except as a last resort the thermostatic part never works correctly in these old valves.

Post# 394825 , Reply# 22   11/20/2009 at 22:11 (5,267 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        
Glass

qsd-dan's profile picture
Is this a late model 142 or has the glass been replaced at some time? The 142 should have the older striped pattern instead of the snowflake.

Post# 394871 , Reply# 23   11/21/2009 at 02:13 (5,266 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        

brianl's profile picture
As far as I know, it's all original. It was purchased in 1961 according to the date they wrote on the front of the manual when they purchased it. I assume some work mechanically was done though as I noticed a solenoid was missing a spring.

Post# 394878 , Reply# 24   11/21/2009 at 03:36 (5,266 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        
It was purchased in 1961

qsd-dan's profile picture
Well, that explains it! I didn't realize Maytag carried this model into the 60's. Guess I should have checked the model/year chart Ben put up a while ago that I archived. 1957-1961. So, to answer my own question, yes, it's a later model 142.

Post# 395345 , Reply# 25   11/23/2009 at 12:37 (5,264 days old) by mistereric (New Jersey (Taylor Ham))        

mistereric's profile picture
Gorgeous machine, Brian! Reminds me I should be working on my A702S. Where in NJ are you?

CLICK HERE TO GO TO mistereric's LINK


Post# 395365 , Reply# 26   11/23/2009 at 14:54 (5,264 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        
Not too far away!!

brianl's profile picture
I am located in Hasbrouck Heights, NJ 07604 near Hackensack, Paramus, etc... I see your not too far away. I could definitely use some assistance if your around sometime. I have so many rust spots I want to clear up, but I'm afraid to take anything apart too far and wind up screwing up the machine.

Post# 395377 , Reply# 27   11/23/2009 at 16:15 (5,264 days old) by revvinkevin (Tinseltown - Shakey Town - La-La Land)        
It looks just like my A700...........

revvinkevin's profile picture

Hi Brian, so that is a 142? It looks just like my A700! Does it have the knob on the top right if the control panel for "Automatic" or "Cold" rinse? If not I guess that is the difference between the two.

What are the last two digits of the serial number? It should be two letters.

Thanks!
Kevin


Post# 395432 , Reply# 28   11/23/2009 at 19:56 (5,264 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        

swestoyz's profile picture
Hey Brian -

For the 15 - 20 dollars that you'd spend on the rebuild kits, I'd personally go ahead and try out the old valve first. I've had pretty good luck getting the thermostatic Dole (plastic body) valves up and going again.

Nice machine! Keep an eye out on ebay for the repair/service manual. It is a black cover and usually is full of the early Helical repair information.

Let us know how the valve job works out!

Ben


Post# 395565 , Reply# 29   11/24/2009 at 08:21 (5,263 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        
It works!!

brianl's profile picture
I tried the valve repair kit and no leaks! All 3 solenoids works perfectly. 2 of them though have rust in the inner cavity where the brass "pole" sits. Nonetheless they do their job and give the washer water and stop when they need to.

I will have to check on that serial number as I totally forgot to grab it last night. I do not have the automatic or cold rinse knob on mine, just the front controls.

On another note, it seems the diaphragm in the fill control valve will not engage to shut off the water unless I do it manually with another air hose I had to create my own air pressure. I think the opening to put the hose on got damaged from closing a clamp on too tight, but I am not sure. The original one that was on there broke. I cannot locate the problem for sure yet, as even when I do it my way, the air eventually leaks out and the washer starts fill again. Maybe I did not have the hose on tight enough for my testing. Is it possible to have a leaking diaphragm?

I need to get my hands on some good but cheap black rubber hose. I tried using clear vinyl and I am still getting leaks around my connections from tub to pump, and pump to drain.

Lastly, It seems the jet that shoots the water into the fill flume sprays water on top of the cabinet and water runs down the wall of the washer. When it is shooting cold water during the first rinse, water sprays out the front of the washer. Wondering if it is years of calcium buildup on the nozzle causing a bad stream of water?


Post# 395725 , Reply# 30   11/24/2009 at 21:54 (5,263 days old) by strongenough78 (California)        
Is jealous.......

strongenough78's profile picture
You guys are so lucky! I keep praying that someday I"ll have my vintage Maytag lol. Oh and by the way, MisterEric, you're cute!!

Post# 395829 , Reply# 31   11/25/2009 at 11:32 (5,262 days old) by bobbyderegis (Boston)        

Brian:
I have a service manual for the 142 but I won't be able to get it for a few weeks as it's in NY! The tub and agitator on yours looks great- little use. Mine has the older lined glass with the black buttons and dial. Yours has the newer styling, like the A700. Sweet little machine!
Bobby in Boston


Post# 395833 , Reply# 32   11/25/2009 at 11:48 (5,262 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        
Valve Assembly ?

brianl's profile picture
By any chance, is this the same valve assembly that is on my Maytag? Please take a look at pictures 43 & 44 of this Lady Kenmore Restoration. Would this increase my chances of finding an assembly?

Thanks,
Brian


CLICK HERE TO GO TO brianl's LINK


Post# 395836 , Reply# 33   11/25/2009 at 12:02 (5,262 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        
Hmmm... Service Manual In NY

brianl's profile picture
Hey you know Bobby I am only in NJ; I should go make a trip to NY. Just kidding, and I really appreciate you doing that for me. Just let me know when you plan on being in the area if you would like to meet up. Is it a copy to borrow, have, or make copies of? Any of the 3 work, just curious.

And again, thank you all for your help. I can only wish to have the knowledge all you people posses and maybe one day I can be of some help to someone else.

Brian


Post# 395869 , Reply# 34   11/25/2009 at 14:14 (5,262 days old) by bobbyderegis (Boston)        

Brian;
You are welcome any time I'm back home. You can check out the 142, the 606, and the 608 pair. I should be back sometime in December. I'll grab the manual to copy for you. The mixing valve in the Kenmore looks similar in construction, but not quite identical.
Bobby in Boston


Post# 396168 , Reply# 35   11/28/2009 at 00:23 (5,259 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        
I finally got the serial number.

brianl's profile picture
The serial number on my Maytag 142 is 203135RS.

When you hear a squeaking that occurs during the wash cycle, but goes away with the spin cycle, is that due to the belts getting wet or is it they need replacement? The squeaking had subsided after a couple of days of use, and I did have leaking water around the time it started, but I still wanted to double-check to be sure.

Brian


Post# 396172 , Reply# 36   11/28/2009 at 00:48 (5,259 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        
The serial number on my Maytag 142 is 203135RS.

qsd-dan's profile picture
If I'm reading it correctly (pre 66 models are a little tricky to decode), it was born November, 1960.

"When you hear a squeaking that occurs during the wash cycle, but goes away with the spin cycle"

There are several factors that would cause this, however, the pulley bearing is something I would look into after belts, and a spring and glide replacement (which all are probably in dire need of anyway).


Post# 396179 , Reply# 37   11/28/2009 at 01:24 (5,259 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        

brianl's profile picture
May I ask how to date Maytag Washers? I did find one website online, but my dating using that website showed Sept. 1963. On the front of the user manual, the previous owners wrote that the set was purchased in 1961. So something is obviously wrong. If you could tell me the proper way of dating them, that would be great.

Thanks,
Brian


CLICK HERE TO GO TO brianl's LINK


Post# 396180 , Reply# 38   11/28/2009 at 01:31 (5,259 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        
May I ask how to date Maytag Washers?

qsd-dan's profile picture
I had a feeling this would get involved.

Maytag used 2 different month letter coding systems on pre 66 automatics. This would mean the machine was born Dec 1959, or Nov 1960. Since you have the modern glass panels, my guess is Nov 1960.

Here's the link for decoding. It's in Post# 216866.


CLICK HERE TO GO TO qsd-dan's LINK


Post# 396249 , Reply# 39   11/28/2009 at 12:10 (5,259 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        

swestoyz's profile picture
I'd put this one at December 1959. General rule is the year is the first letter and the month is the second.

It is quite possible that they were making the switch over to the dotted glass panels for 1960 machines due to the push-button 160 being introduced around the same time.

Or, they could have been replaced at a later date.

Ben


Post# 396715 , Reply# 40   11/30/2009 at 23:45 (5,257 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        

brianl's profile picture
Thanks for all the information and help to everyone. Anyone in the area who knows how to restore these washers properly would be doing me a great service and I would be happy returning the favor financially or otherwise helping someone with their restoration.

Brian


Post# 397001 , Reply# 41   12/2/2009 at 09:50 (5,255 days old) by mistereric (New Jersey (Taylor Ham))        

mistereric's profile picture
Hey Brian! I'm in the area and I have no idea how to go about it, but since I have a similar machine, if you are interested in getting together and having a whack at it, I'd be down.


Forum Index:       Other Forums:                      



Comes to the Rescue!

The Discuss-o-Mat has stopped, buzzer is sounding!!!
If you would like to reply to this thread please log-in...

Discuss-O-MAT Log-In



New Members
Click Here To Sign Up.



                     


automaticwasher.org home
Discuss-o-Mat Forums
Vintage Brochures, Service and Owners Manuals
Fun Vintage Washer Ephemera
See It Wash!
Video Downloads
Audio Downloads
Picture of the Day
Patent of the Day
Photos of our Collections
The Old Aberdeen Farm
Vintage Service Manuals
Vintage washer/dryer/dishwasher to sell?
Technical/service questions?
Looking for Parts?
Website related questions?
Digital Millennium Copyright Act Policy
Our Privacy Policy