Thread Number: 25642
Restoring my Maytag 124 Automatic Washer |
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Post# 394458   11/19/2009 at 10:00 (5,268 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)   |   | |
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In the beginning of this week, I became the proud owner of a 1961 Maytag Model 124 Washer. Apparently it was in use from that time of purchase up until last year when the owner past. Her son gave me the washer and dryer combo she had. It seems to cycle correctly, but unfortunately the valves do not close properly and let the hot and cold through. Even the mixing valve does not seem to seat properly as the same thing happened on the warm setting. All 3 solenoids work though. I tried doing what I thought was a thorough cleaning on the cold, hot, & mixing valves, but only managed to slow the cold flow down, although significantly. The cold solenoid was missing a spring, so I borrowed it from the hot for testing, but still am a spring short. Basically I would like to get replacement solenoids, springs, valves, etc. If someone is really good at refurbishing these, I would be open to that too. I would really like to get it working properly and eventually get to the cosmetic part of restoration. Unfortunately no pics taken yet. Thanks!! |
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Post# 394468 , Reply# 1   11/19/2009 at 10:30 (5,268 days old) by unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)   |   | |
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Order Gemline GVW-1000 water valve repair kit from you appliance part store. You will need two of them since your valve has three solenoids. Page 35 in their catalog...
CLICK HERE TO GO TO unimatic1140's LINK |
Post# 394474 , Reply# 2   11/19/2009 at 10:54 (5,268 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)   |   | |
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Post# 394480 , Reply# 3   11/19/2009 at 11:02 (5,268 days old) by unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)   |   | |
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Post# 394485 , Reply# 4   11/19/2009 at 11:16 (5,268 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)   |   | |
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Post# 394574 , Reply# 6   11/19/2009 at 17:43 (5,268 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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Post# 394725 , Reply# 7   11/20/2009 at 12:15 (5,267 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)   |   | |
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Just curious how you can see that is for mine. I cannot tell too good from the pic and obviously it is different from the original one I have. I trust your judgment though! Hey Unimatic1140, I was able to order the valve repair kit from Gemline today along with some other parts I needed. Thanks for your help as well! Brian |
Post# 394736 , Reply# 8   11/20/2009 at 13:20 (5,267 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)   |   | |
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Post# 394748 , Reply# 9   11/20/2009 at 14:30 (5,267 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)   |   | |
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That was my fault, it is a Maytag Model 142, not 124. For some reason, I keep wanting to switch the numbers around. There are 3 separate wires all with a common. For the hot, it is orange & yellow. For the cold, it is white & yellow. For warm, it is blue & yellow. It seems odd that the cold has white & the warm blue. I did test it though, and the white and yellow engage the solenoid if I do cold, and the blue & yellow engage only when I do the warm setting. All 3 solenoids work although they are getting a bit noisy. I am not sure if that is due to the calcium buildup on them, but nonetheless, they do all work and have a magnetic pull. Does anyone have a parts book or anything on it, as I only have the User's manual that originally came with the machine and a basic generic service manual. While helpful I would like to know part numbers and perhaps some type of detailed service manual so I don't screw anything up. E-mail version would be fine or if someone has a hard copy, I would pay for the shipping. I will try to take and post some pics this evening before I leave for my trip to Boston tonight. I also have the "matching" dryer; model DE606. Thanks, Brian |
Post# 394780 , Reply# 10   11/20/2009 at 17:27 (5,267 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)   |   | |
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Post# 394781 , Reply# 11   11/20/2009 at 17:27 (5,267 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)   |   | |
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Post# 394782 , Reply# 12   11/20/2009 at 17:28 (5,267 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)   |   | |
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Post# 394783 , Reply# 13   11/20/2009 at 17:29 (5,267 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)   |   | |
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Post# 394784 , Reply# 14   11/20/2009 at 17:30 (5,267 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)   |   | |
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Post# 394785 , Reply# 15   11/20/2009 at 17:31 (5,267 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)   |   | |
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Post# 394786 , Reply# 16   11/20/2009 at 17:33 (5,267 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)   |   | |
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Post# 394787 , Reply# 17   11/20/2009 at 17:33 (5,267 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)   |   | |
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Post# 394788 , Reply# 18   11/20/2009 at 17:34 (5,267 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)   |   | |
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Post# 394789 , Reply# 19   11/20/2009 at 17:35 (5,267 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)   |   | |
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Post# 394790 , Reply# 20   11/20/2009 at 17:36 (5,267 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)   |   | |
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Post# 394809 , Reply# 21   11/20/2009 at 20:10 (5,267 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Post# 394825 , Reply# 22   11/20/2009 at 22:11 (5,267 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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Post# 394871 , Reply# 23   11/21/2009 at 02:13 (5,266 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)   |   | |
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Post# 394878 , Reply# 24   11/21/2009 at 03:36 (5,266 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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Post# 395345 , Reply# 25   11/23/2009 at 12:37 (5,264 days old) by mistereric (New Jersey (Taylor Ham))   |   | |
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Gorgeous machine, Brian! Reminds me I should be working on my A702S. Where in NJ are you?
CLICK HERE TO GO TO mistereric's LINK |
Post# 395365 , Reply# 26   11/23/2009 at 14:54 (5,264 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)   |   | |
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Post# 395377 , Reply# 27   11/23/2009 at 16:15 (5,264 days old) by revvinkevin (Tinseltown - Shakey Town - La-La Land)   |   | |
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Post# 395432 , Reply# 28   11/23/2009 at 19:56 (5,264 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)   |   | |
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Hey Brian - For the 15 - 20 dollars that you'd spend on the rebuild kits, I'd personally go ahead and try out the old valve first. I've had pretty good luck getting the thermostatic Dole (plastic body) valves up and going again. Nice machine! Keep an eye out on ebay for the repair/service manual. It is a black cover and usually is full of the early Helical repair information. Let us know how the valve job works out! Ben |
Post# 395565 , Reply# 29   11/24/2009 at 08:21 (5,263 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)   |   | |
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I tried the valve repair kit and no leaks! All 3 solenoids works perfectly. 2 of them though have rust in the inner cavity where the brass "pole" sits. Nonetheless they do their job and give the washer water and stop when they need to. I will have to check on that serial number as I totally forgot to grab it last night. I do not have the automatic or cold rinse knob on mine, just the front controls. On another note, it seems the diaphragm in the fill control valve will not engage to shut off the water unless I do it manually with another air hose I had to create my own air pressure. I think the opening to put the hose on got damaged from closing a clamp on too tight, but I am not sure. The original one that was on there broke. I cannot locate the problem for sure yet, as even when I do it my way, the air eventually leaks out and the washer starts fill again. Maybe I did not have the hose on tight enough for my testing. Is it possible to have a leaking diaphragm? I need to get my hands on some good but cheap black rubber hose. I tried using clear vinyl and I am still getting leaks around my connections from tub to pump, and pump to drain. Lastly, It seems the jet that shoots the water into the fill flume sprays water on top of the cabinet and water runs down the wall of the washer. When it is shooting cold water during the first rinse, water sprays out the front of the washer. Wondering if it is years of calcium buildup on the nozzle causing a bad stream of water? |
Post# 395725 , Reply# 30   11/24/2009 at 21:54 (5,263 days old) by strongenough78 (California)   |   | |
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Post# 395833 , Reply# 32   11/25/2009 at 11:48 (5,262 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)   |   | |
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By any chance, is this the same valve assembly that is on my Maytag? Please take a look at pictures 43 & 44 of this Lady Kenmore Restoration. Would this increase my chances of finding an assembly? Thanks, Brian CLICK HERE TO GO TO brianl's LINK |
Post# 395836 , Reply# 33   11/25/2009 at 12:02 (5,262 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)   |   | |
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Hey you know Bobby I am only in NJ; I should go make a trip to NY. Just kidding, and I really appreciate you doing that for me. Just let me know when you plan on being in the area if you would like to meet up. Is it a copy to borrow, have, or make copies of? Any of the 3 work, just curious. And again, thank you all for your help. I can only wish to have the knowledge all you people posses and maybe one day I can be of some help to someone else. Brian |
Post# 396168 , Reply# 35   11/28/2009 at 00:23 (5,259 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)   |   | |
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The serial number on my Maytag 142 is 203135RS. When you hear a squeaking that occurs during the wash cycle, but goes away with the spin cycle, is that due to the belts getting wet or is it they need replacement? The squeaking had subsided after a couple of days of use, and I did have leaking water around the time it started, but I still wanted to double-check to be sure. Brian |
Post# 396172 , Reply# 36   11/28/2009 at 00:48 (5,259 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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If I'm reading it correctly (pre 66 models are a little tricky to decode), it was born November, 1960. "When you hear a squeaking that occurs during the wash cycle, but goes away with the spin cycle" There are several factors that would cause this, however, the pulley bearing is something I would look into after belts, and a spring and glide replacement (which all are probably in dire need of anyway). |
Post# 396179 , Reply# 37   11/28/2009 at 01:24 (5,259 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)   |   | |
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May I ask how to date Maytag Washers? I did find one website online, but my dating using that website showed Sept. 1963. On the front of the user manual, the previous owners wrote that the set was purchased in 1961. So something is obviously wrong. If you could tell me the proper way of dating them, that would be great. Thanks, Brian CLICK HERE TO GO TO brianl's LINK |
Post# 396180 , Reply# 38   11/28/2009 at 01:31 (5,259 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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I had a feeling this would get involved. Maytag used 2 different month letter coding systems on pre 66 automatics. This would mean the machine was born Dec 1959, or Nov 1960. Since you have the modern glass panels, my guess is Nov 1960. Here's the link for decoding. It's in Post# 216866. CLICK HERE TO GO TO qsd-dan's LINK |
Post# 396249 , Reply# 39   11/28/2009 at 12:10 (5,259 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)   |   | |
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I'd put this one at December 1959. General rule is the year is the first letter and the month is the second. It is quite possible that they were making the switch over to the dotted glass panels for 1960 machines due to the push-button 160 being introduced around the same time. Or, they could have been replaced at a later date. Ben |
Post# 396715 , Reply# 40   11/30/2009 at 23:45 (5,257 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)   |   | |
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Post# 397001 , Reply# 41   12/2/2009 at 09:50 (5,255 days old) by mistereric (New Jersey (Taylor Ham))   |   | |
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