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Thread Number: 25650
*RIP* Whirlpool BD Portable Washer |
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Post# 394521 11/19/2009 at 14:26 (5,265 days old) by launderess  (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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Well am just that gutted! Repairman came out to look over the Whirlpool washer and says it is not the pump leaking, but the from the shaft seals. So basically this machine is toast until one makes the repairs. Rough estimate for the work is around $400 plus parts. Only good thing is the cost of the service call $100) is applied towards any work to be done. Repairman does NOT recommend repairing the unit, as in his words "you can buy a new washer for that amount of money", which is true, or at least several similar used models. Plus the man also feels sooner or later the unit may need other repairs (belt and or pump), which are costly repairs as well. *Sigh*! | ||
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| Post# 394525 , Reply# 1 11/19/2009 at 14:47 (5,265 days old) by ronhic (Canberra, Australia) | ||
Launderess.... | ||
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Post# 394528 , Reply# 2 11/19/2009 at 14:49 (5,265 days old) by launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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A Bit Too Early To Hit The Shanty Booze | ||
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Post# 394547 , Reply# 3 11/19/2009 at 15:46 (5,265 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH) |
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Hmmmmm. | ||
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Post# 394550 , Reply# 4 11/19/2009 at 15:58 (5,265 days old) by kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC) |
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The seals must be really bad to be leaking that much, though I have seen that before. Usually they just slowly poison everything underneath. What the guy 'recommends' does not necessarily apply to us here because, quite frankly, he presumes that we are the usual consumer and think of appliances as just that. $400 is a lot of money for this work if you ask me. I can do it in a couple hours if the machine cooperates and comes apart without difficultly (sometimes they don't). Problem is, most if not all belt-drives are going to need those seals eventually. There is a seal in the spin tube, and a pair of centerpost bearing seals in a short post machine, or one seal in the tall post models. The seals cost a couple bucks. Dave is right - someone here can probably do this for you. Gordon | ||
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Post# 394554 , Reply# 5 11/19/2009 at 16:12 (5,265 days old) by launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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Things Went Down Like This
Repairman first popped the lid and looked around the washer's outer tub, and pronounced it "fine". That is there weren't any visable leaks and or rust spots for that matter. Next he let the washer fill at it's lowest level, then started running. No leak yet (he was peering underneath with a bright light), however after the unit was made to fill highest level, then the fun started. Again, peering under the unit he could see water dripping from the center of the washer. Finally repairman took off the agitator and we both could see bubbles (small and infrequent, but bubbles none the less), coming up from the center post area. This, one was informed means that the seals are leaking. Repairman was actually happy it wasn't the belt or pump, as they are "hard to replace" on these units. As for the $400 or so estimate (won't have the offical word until the main office rings tomorrow), for those whom have never been to NYC, EVERYTHING cost more in Manhattan/NYC than anyplace else. From hookers to groceries, prices are higher because of the high cost of living. Go figure. Repairman said cost would be high because the job will take him all day as he must "take the unit apart. | ||
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Post# 394583 , Reply# 6 11/19/2009 at 18:10 (5,265 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions) |
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Post# 394588 , Reply# 7 11/19/2009 at 18:52 (5,265 days old) by launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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Actually was one of the brighter spots in this whole saga. Rang him up soon as repairman departed and explained the lay of the land. For his part the seller explained he was moving the unit on for a family member, and said memember did "test" the unit before it was picked up, and all was well. Told him that it was impossible not to spot this machine leaking, and that it has been doing so for awhile (judging from the rust on the base plate), and despite claims this machine is not "working" far as we are concerned. Seller had already made a partial refund when told a few weeks ago about the leaking, however in consideration of the costly repair estimate, said he was going to refund the balance as well. We both felt this was only fair. Basically the machine is not useable, I mean one can continue to run the thing, causing it to slowly die and rot away, not to mention ruining the floor underneath, or have it repaired, or simply chuck it away. Really blame myself, NEVER purchase a washing machine or dishwasher without going to inspect it first, unless the thing is MIB or one willing to live with the consequences. | ||
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Post# 394597 , Reply# 9 11/19/2009 at 19:30 (5,265 days old) by launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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We Shall See What There Is Tomorrow
When repair service comes in with their numbers. Most of the seal parts are out there and not very dear. Cannot find the lower bearings though, but don't think he said those were going. Main worry is that water has been leaking for so long that it has rotted and or damaged other parts such as the transmission. I mean don't want to spend $$$ only to have something else go several months later. Huge problem with this machine is the getting it apart, as I'm sure you already know. It is a rather involved process and until one can look under the bonnet, you don't really know what is going on. If repairman gets the cabinet off and finds god only knows what is going on, then the thing prolly will end up in the knackers yard. OTHO, if one can squeak by with say under $50 in parts, and about $400 in repair labour (shop puts the call out fee towards any repair work, so this amount would be reduced by $104), AND can get at least several more years use out of the machine, then repairs might get the green light. | ||
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Post# 394598 , Reply# 10 11/19/2009 at 19:36 (5,265 days old) by launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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In The Words of Mrs. Stanley T. Banks
In the film "Father of The Bride", when the caterer tells the Mr. and Mrs. Banks to move all the first floor furniture into the attic to make room for the wedding party: "What do you think I've got up there, a cold storage locker"? *LOL* Between the decommissioned Hoover TT, and now the sidelined Whirlpool, there are more than a few "large" portable appliances hanging about taking up room! *LOL* Something has got to go if it does not pull it's weight around here. Sadly if the Whirlpool cannot be mended, or is just too dear to make workable again, it probably will draw the short straw. | ||
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Post# 394609 , Reply# 12 11/19/2009 at 20:46 (5,265 days old) by mistereric (New Jersey (Taylor Ham)) |
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Post# 394615 , Reply# 14 11/19/2009 at 21:22 (5,265 days old) by kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC) |
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For what it's worth, I have never seen a machine leaking from the center that couldn't be fixed. If your transmission is working fine, it is probably fine period. If the pulley on the basket drive doesn't make a lot of noise, it's fine too. About the only problem will be grooves worn on the agitator shaft and the spin tube from their respective seals that can cause new seals to wear out faster. In 2002 I took in a 1986 built belt-drive machine that had flooded the transmission it leaked so much. The machine sounded awful when I got it and I turned my back on it until summer of 2008. I was shocked at the sturdiness of the belt-drive design because six years after I put the machine away it still worked, and sounded better. That's because some of the water had evaporated out of the nooks and crannies. The transmission upon opening yielded ABSOLUTELY NASTY brown mucky "oil" that looked more like chocolate sauce. It was thick enough to pour like that as well. Well, a clean up in a parts washer returned the whole transmission to a pristine appearance, except for the two internal springs which I replaced and usually do as a standard practice. A new bottle of oil and a seal, and it's like new and working well. So, I'm pretty sure that your transmission is in re-useable condition. If there are big grooves worn in the shaft from the seals, the technician needs to install the new seals either further down into the spin tube or a little higher up, if space allows. | ||
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Post# 394770 , Reply# 17 11/20/2009 at 16:24 (5,264 days old) by launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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Well, after telephoning several other local repair services,and basically getting the same responses (don't bother repairing, machine is too old), have come down to the fact this unit will either be moved on or harvested for parts then scrapped. One of the more helpful repairmen broke it down like this: if the seals are going all would and should be replaced at the same time. This would require removing and replacing the bearings as well. A bearing pulling tool for this unit is not something he nor many others have, and even if they did the upper and lower shaft bearings are NOS, even from Sears Parts. The above repairman went on further to state that the leaking has probably caused much rusting and such, in short after spending $400 for repairs just to the seals, one would probably need something else sooner or later. By the way none of the services contacted would combine changing the belt and pump with one service charge, or slightly higher. Apparently that job is much effort as well. So far have spent over $200 between service call and shipping, and think maybe it is time to either fish or cut bait. Final option would be to use the washer on water settings where it does not leak (lower fill levels), until it simply dies a long painful death. Am not even sure if water does not leak internally on these settings, only that when repairman tested the unit on "low" no water came from the bottom of the machine. | ||
| Post# 394776 , Reply# 18 11/20/2009 at 17:00 (5,264 days old) by macboy91si (Frankfort, KY) | ||
Sears pic is misleading...
If anyone has seen the NEW small Kenmore portables then they know that the tub and agitator are nothing like what is pictures. The pic they show of the tub shot is a DD Kenmore, full size machine at that. Those Kenmores haven't been a standard Direct Drive model since like the late 90's, which is a shame because the "world washers" and the current iteration suck. Also either the current model or the one right before it (more squared with knobs at 45deg angle) lacked a "Spin Only" cycle. That said enough for me right there. I hate new stuff sometimes, it's almost like they go out of their way to make sure you'll hate it... -Tim | ||
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Post# 394929 , Reply# 21 11/21/2009 at 11:14 (5,263 days old) by jons1077 (Vancouver, Washington, USA) |
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If this really goes to the dump... | ||
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Post# 394987 , Reply# 22 11/21/2009 at 16:22 (5,263 days old) by launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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Well Am Betwixted and Between
Tried doing a wash load on "medium" last night in an effort to determine which water levels won't cause downward pressure on the seals, hence water leaking. Put an absorbent pad under the unit and while there were some small streaks of oil, couldn't find any water. However when lifted the washer slightly forward from the rear to peer underneath, a small puddle of clear water was on the floor after the machine was lowered. Now don't know if that water came from the current cycles, or from the previous day's repair work (if you can call it that). Several problems come to mind in trying to repair this unit: One, simply finding someone to do the job. The repair service that did the inspection does not seem interested, indeed cannot get them to return my telephone call regarding an estimate. So far finding another local repair service to work on this machine hasn't proved easy either. Next the bearing kit (Whirlpool 285136), is NLA from every source I've tried, including various obsolete part stores/websites. Could be wrong, but form what one has read all seals and bearings should be replaced when doing this repair. Suppose one could get away with only swapping out the "donut" and spin tube seals, but don't know about that. Even if one could find the bearing kit, do not have nor know of anyone who owns the tool for extracting same. Finally there is the risk of causing damage to the outer and or inner tubs by removing 20+ year old parts. Parts for these units are harder to find than a virgin at a prison rodeo, and if the lip or something else is damaged beyond repair, theres' an end to it all. | ||
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