Thread Number: 25784
Dryer Venting/Duct tape
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Post# 396207   11/28/2009 at 07:12 (5,255 days old) by seeitrun2006 (Commerce, GA)        

I had to redo the venting on my sister-law's Whirlpool dryer yesterday. She was complaining it was taking too long to dry her clothes. The washer and dryer came new with the house when she bought it a couple of years ago. The builder bent the vent pipe almost shut between the dryer and the pipe in the wall.

I used standard (cheap) duct tape to close up a few air leaks in the duct work from the dryer to the vent pipe in the wall. Is duct tape safe to use or should I go back and replace it with foil tape?

Thanks,
David






Post# 396211 , Reply# 1   11/28/2009 at 07:44 (5,255 days old) by toggleswitch2 ()        

Seeing that the hottest commercial dryers run about 190*F, (88*C), and home dryers tend to run cooler, say 160*F (71*C) max. I'd say you're safe with what is there now.

:-)


Post# 396212 , Reply# 2   11/28/2009 at 07:44 (5,255 days old) by tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        

You should replace the damaged portion of the pipe because it is no longer smooth and will catch lint, but you have improved things temporarily. If she has used it for a any length of time, it has shortened the life of the heating element by makeing it run too hot. A friend's new house that came with the GE washer and dryer had 6 feet of plastic dryer vent crushed behind the dryer. It really needed one of the SLOW CHILD Playing signs above it in addition to it being a fire hazard. As for the tape, use only the foil-type Duct Tape with the peel off backing really designed for ductwork.

Post# 396215 , Reply# 3   11/28/2009 at 08:12 (5,255 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
yeah...duct tape is a temporary fix....replace the bent/mangled pieces and wrap with FOIL tape, and then your good to go

Post# 396251 , Reply# 4   11/28/2009 at 12:23 (5,255 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)        
Insurance:

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In addition to the comments above, I'd like to share something I saw happen: One of my neighbours in Georgia had a dryer fire; fortunately, her hubby was at home and there was actually an extinguisher in the house, so damage was not too bad. The problem came when they called their insurer. When the adjuster came out, he took one look at the smushed plastic duct and the regular duct tape and told them point-blank they were not covered because the installation wasn't anywhere near being up to code. They were about $2500 out of pocket, and they were lucky it wasn't worse.

Post# 396265 , Reply# 5   11/28/2009 at 13:20 (5,255 days old) by seeitrun2006 (Commerce, GA)        
Duct work

I replaced the entire duct work from the dryer to the wall connection going to the outside. The crushed pipe is not longer in place. I replaced it with semi-regid duct work and used two 90 degreee elbows to use the shortest route possible.

I will go back over this week and change the duct tape to foil tape.

Thanks for the advice!
David


Post# 396298 , Reply# 6   11/28/2009 at 17:06 (5,255 days old) by stevet (West Melbourne, FL)        
Do it again!

If you were able to get access to install the semi rigid pipe, take that out and put in all rigid pipe which will be much less likely to collect lint on it's inside surfaves than the flexible stuff. Also, anything that creates friction or drag inside the piping like the corrugations of the semi rigid pipe will slow the air down as well as take away from the effective length allowed for the dryer. In other words, it adds to the overall length of the exhaust piping due to that drag, just as each elbow adds some additional feet to the overall length.

Do not use sheet metal screws to secure the sections as they will also collect lint and dust. Attach the sections together as tightly as possible and then seal the joints with the proper adhesive backed foil tape which is rated for higher temperatures.

If the piping runs through a very cold area during winter weather, you may consider insulating the pipe so there will be less condensation in the pipe. Also, if it has horizontal runs, you may also consider lining up the seams so that they all are on the top and will help prevent drips from collecting on the floor of the attic or inside the horizontal spaces;and possibly pitching the pipe downward towards the vent cap.


Post# 396441 , Reply# 7   11/29/2009 at 15:12 (5,254 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)        

When we had our dryer vent cleaned by the chimney sweep, we had metalized exhaust tubing coming out of the dryer. He replaced it with this strange galvanized vent. It's only about a foot long (it's adjustable). One side clamps on the dryer and the other end clamps onto the exhaust vent housing. It's very efficient.

Post# 396453 , Reply# 8   11/29/2009 at 16:40 (5,254 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

rp2813's profile picture
OK, somebody beat me to the foil tape suggestion. You're on the right track.

So they make capability-specific signs now to advise that there are slow children playing?


Post# 396882 , Reply# 9   12/1/2009 at 20:00 (5,252 days old) by seeitrun2006 (Commerce, GA)        
All is fixed

I went over Monday and replace the plastic duct tape with foil tape. Now I can sleep better knowing they can safely use their clothes dryer.

My sister in law is completely clueless to issues like this. All she knows is load it and turn it on. They (she and her daugther) go to bed a lot of nights with the washer, dishwasher and dryer running. Thankfully there is a smoke detector above the washer and dryer.

Thanks everyone for the advice and information!

Peace and Blessings,
David



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