F&P IWL12 Fun

Diagnostic Mode

1. Press and hold Lifecycle, then press Power at the same time. The machine responds with two beeps and the display backlight turns on, but the display remains blank.

2. Press Lifecycle again. The machine responds with one beep and diagnostic mode is enabled.

2a: Press Power to exit diagnostic mode.

3. The display has three information screens: Machine Status, Fault Status, and Warning Status. Pressing the Option Up or Option Down button rotates between screens.

MACHINE STATUS reports the operational status of:

Divertor:Off [Off/Heating/On/Cooling] The divertor valve is run by a wax motor. Off means the valve is in Off position and the machine will drain when the pump runs. Heating means the valve is energized and preparing to switch into On mode. On indicates EcoActive recirculation spray will be in effect when the pump runs. Cooling means the valve is de-energized but not yet in Off/drain mode. It takes a few mins for the heating/cooling processes to finish and the valve to switch modes. When a wash cycle is initially started, the valve immediately goes into heating/on for recirculate mode in preparation for EcoActive. It normally has fully changed modes by the time EcoActive fill is finished. After EcoActive, the valve turns off so it is ready to drain after the deep wash. The pump will be delayed for drain or recirculate if the electronics sense that the valve hasn't completely heated or cooled for changing modes.

HVDC:[volts] This parameter is related to assembly-line testing and isn't used in the field, according to the tech sheet.

Size: 650mm The programmed tub/capacity size for the motor controller. F&P washers on the NZ/Aus market are available in various capacity sizes. US machines are only one capacity, but the controller still must be set for the correct size.

OOB:Off [On] Status of the Out-Of-Balance sensor. Push the basket toward the right-rear of the cabinet to trigger the switch.

T:27degC Temperature of the water in the mixing chamber.

Target: degC The target temperature for the incoming water, per the temperature selection. The numeric value will be blank unless a cycle is running.

While in Diagnostic mode on the MACHINE STATUS screen, press and hold the How Dirty Up button to turn on the hot water valve. Water runs only while the button is held.

Press and hold the How Dirty Down button to turn on the cold water valve. Water runs only while the button is held.

Press the Fabric Care button to turn the pump on or off. The Creasables indictor is lit when the pump runs.

Press the Home button to energize/enable or de-energize/shut off the divertor valve. The Handwash indicator is lit when the divertor valve is energized. Recirculation can be tested by energizing the valve, waiting for it to switch from Heating to On, filling the machine with an appropriate amount of water, then turning the pump on. Turn the valve off, wait for it to Cool and change to Off mode, then turn the pump on again to drain.

WARNING STATUS reports the last User Fault code, in what part of the cycle it happened, and how many cycles ago it occurred. Common user faults are: No Faucets, Overloaded, Out Of Balance, Over Suds, No Hot Water, No Cold Water, Agitate Overloaded. I have a No Hot Water fault 26 cycles ago, from when I washed a quilt and didn't raise the tankless from 102蚌.

FAULT STATUS reports the last serious machine Fault Code, how many cycles ago it occurred, and in what part of the cycle.

Diagnostic mode CAN be triggered WHILE a cycle runs. Start the cycle as usual, then press and hold Lifecycle and Power for one beep, then Lifecycle again.

A fun thing to do: After a deep wash gets going, go into diagnostic mode, energize the divertor valve, wait for it to switch modes, then turn on the pump. Recirculation during agitation!

I also found that by pressing and holding Lifecycle for a few seconds after entering diagnostic mode, an "extended" (my term) diagnostic mode triggers that has two extra screens.

VERSION STATUS reports version/revision numbers for the circuit boards, AND the instantaneous RPM of the motor. Interesting, my machine reports 1010 RPM while in spin with no clothes.

The 2nd screen apparently is related to the auto fabric sensing function. It says "Not In Sense" and "Unknown fab" when the machine isn't otherwise running, along with various other parameters that I don't yet know what they mean.

Once "extended" diagnostic mode is triggered, the extra screens are always available whenever diagnostic mode is entered . . . until the machine is unplugged for about one minute. Then, only the three main diagnostic screens appear, until "extended" mode is triggered again.


Forum Topics & Rules Manuals & Literature	New users Click-here to sign-up

Post# 73016 7/10/2005 at 16:05 (6,857 days old) by DADoES (TX,𡠻.S. of A.)
Checkrate/Likes Diagnostic Mode 1. Press and hold Lifecycle, then press Power at the same time. The machine responds with two beeps and the display backlight turns on, but the display remains blank. 2. Press Lifecycle again. The machine responds with one beep and diagnostic mode is enabled. 2a: Press Power to exit diagnostic mode. 3. The display has three information screens: Machine Status, Fault Status, and Warning Status. Pressing the Option Up or Option Down button rotates between screens. MACHINE STATUS reports the operational status of: Divertor:Off [Off/Heating/On/Cooling] The divertor valve is run by a wax motor. Off means the valve is in Off position and the machine will drain when the pump runs. Heating means the valve is energized and preparing to switch into On mode. On indicates EcoActive recirculation spray will be in effect when the pump runs. Cooling means the valve is de-energized but not yet in Off/drain mode. It takes a few mins for the heating/cooling processes to finish and the valve to switch modes. When a wash cycle is initially started, the valve immediately goes into heating/on for recirculate mode in preparation for EcoActive. It normally has fully changed modes by the time EcoActive fill is finished. After EcoActive, the valve turns off so it is ready to drain after the deep wash. The pump will be delayed for drain or recirculate if the electronics sense that the valve hasn't completely heated or cooled for changing modes. HVDC:[volts] This parameter is related to assembly-line testing and isn't used in the field, according to the tech sheet. Size: 650mm The programmed tub/capacity size for the motor controller. F&P washers on the NZ/Aus market are available in various capacity sizes. US machines are only one capacity, but the controller still must be set for the correct size. OOB:Off [On] Status of the Out-Of-Balance sensor. Push the basket toward the right-rear of the cabinet to trigger the switch. T:27degC Temperature of the water in the mixing chamber. Target: degC The target temperature for the incoming water, per the temperature selection. The numeric value will be blank unless a cycle is running. While in Diagnostic mode on the MACHINE STATUS screen, press and hold the How Dirty Up button to turn on the hot water valve. Water runs only while the button is held. Press and hold the How Dirty Down button to turn on the cold water valve. Water runs only while the button is held. Press the Fabric Care button to turn the pump on or off. The Creasables indictor is lit when the pump runs. Press the Home button to energize/enable or de-energize/shut off the divertor valve. The Handwash indicator is lit when the divertor valve is energized. Recirculation can be tested by energizing the valve, waiting for it to switch from Heating to On, filling the machine with an appropriate amount of water, then turning the pump on. Turn the valve off, wait for it to Cool and change to Off mode, then turn the pump on again to drain. WARNING STATUS reports the last User Fault code, in what part of the cycle it happened, and how many cycles ago it occurred. Common user faults are: No Faucets, Overloaded, Out Of Balance, Over Suds, No Hot Water, No Cold Water, Agitate Overloaded. I have a No Hot Water fault 26 cycles ago, from when I washed a quilt and didn't raise the tankless from 102蚌. FAULT STATUS reports the last serious machine Fault Code, how many cycles ago it occurred, and in what part of the cycle. Diagnostic mode CAN be triggered WHILE a cycle runs. Start the cycle as usual, then press and hold Lifecycle and Power for one beep, then Lifecycle again. A fun thing to do: After a deep wash gets going, go into diagnostic mode, energize the divertor valve, wait for it to switch modes, then turn on the pump. Recirculation during agitation! I also found that by pressing and holding Lifecycle for a few seconds after entering diagnostic mode, an "extended" (my term) diagnostic mode triggers that has two extra screens. VERSION STATUS reports version/revision numbers for the circuit boards, AND the instantaneous RPM of the motor. Interesting, my machine reports 1010 RPM while in spin with no clothes. The 2nd screen apparently is related to the auto fabric sensing function. It says "Not In Sense" and "Unknown fab" when the machine isn't otherwise running, along with various other parameters that I don't yet know what they mean. Once "extended" diagnostic mode is triggered, the extra screens are always available whenever diagnostic mode is entered . . . until the machine is unplugged for about one minute. Then, only the three main diagnostic screens appear, until "extended" mode is triggered again.

Post# 73034 , Reply# 1 7/10/2005 at 19:54 (6,857 days old) by washoholic (San Antonio, TX)
Checkrate/Likes *COOL STUFF!!!* Very interesting! Let us know more about the 2nd screen of the "extended" diagnostic mode when you find out.

Post# 73055 , Reply# 2 7/11/2005 at 00:16 (6,856 days old) by DADoES (TX,𡠻.S. of A.)
Checkrate/Likes *F&P 1010 RPM Rapid-Dry* The 2nd screen in "advanced" diagnostic mode is related to water level and fabric sensing. The "title" line reads Sensing Water Level while the initial test strokes run, then it says Mix-Up and Re-Sensing Water Level. Various numeric parameters change during the process, but I don't know what they mean -- M1: and M2: and C: (or was it C15:?) and P: and F:. Except I'm sure WL: is a reference to the water level, as the number increases during fill and decreases during drain, and also varies a bit during agitation as the load and water sloshes about. The title line also says Sensing Fabric during that part of the process, and then reports the fabric-mode that was selected, as opposed to the selected agitation action which appears on the main operational screen. The blanket I washed said Light Mixed for the fabric selection, but agitation was reported as Mild Wash. Oh, and confirmed that 1000 RPM spin is actually 1010 RPM, assuming the display isn't fibbing.

Post# 73929 , Reply# 3 7/17/2005 at 06:36 (6,850 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY)
Checkrate/Likes Glen, (or is it Glenn?) Quote: The divertor valve is run by a wax motor. If this is not ridiculously self-evident (it's early and the coffee is still brewing) would ya back up and explain this? wax motor? valve heating up? Thanks

Post# 73954 , Reply# 4 7/17/2005 at 09:05 (6,850 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)
Checkrate/Likes *OK F&P, add a heater.* The only thing missing from the IWL12 is an on board heater? That would be cool.

Post# 74006 , Reply# 5 7/17/2005 at 16:57 (6,850 days old) by DADoES (TX,𡠻.S. of A.)
Checkrate/Likes From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. A wax motor is a bizarre-seeming form of an electric motor that is sometimes used to replace a magnetic solenoid in an application where a short range of linear motion is required. The wax motor has three principal components: * A block of wax * A plunger that bears on the wax * An electric heater that heats the wax When the electric heater is energized, the wax block is heated and it expands, driving the plunger outwards. When the electric current is removed, the wax block cools and contracts and the plunger is withdrawn (usually, by spring force applied externally or by a spring incorporated directly into the wax motor). Depending on the particular application, wax motors may have three potential advantages over magnetic solenoids: * Both the application and the release of the wax motor is not instantaneous, but rather, smooth and gentle. * Because the wax motor is a resistive load rather than an inductive load, wax motors controlled by triacs do not require snubber circuits. * Wax motors may survive situations where the plunger is blocked from full travel whereas some solenoids operating from alternating current will burn out unless the plunger travels all the way "home" (and thereby increases the inductance of the solenoid coil, reducing the current flow in the coil). Wax motors were perhaps most famously used on Maytag's line of front-loading clothes washers where they experienced an unfortunately-high failure rate and have now been substantially replaced by magnetic solenoids.