Thread Number: 26116
Restoring the Unimatic WO-65 - HELP NEEDED!
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Post# 400967   12/20/2009 at 22:14 (5,239 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)        

Unimatic experts, Last week I started the restoring of my Frigidaires Unimatic WO-65, but I've found the first issue that made me stop and ask for your help.

Trying to remove the pulsator, the pulsator nut that looks like a cone with legs was very easy to be removed using an ordinary wrench and some WD40 but right under it, i've found this (look the picture) and I couldn't understand exactly what's that tiny "C" ring.

I don't know if it's another nut that is screwed above the polsator or if it's part of the pulsator or if it's a clip.

Could you please tell me how to remove it?

By the way, I'm spraying WD40 on it several times a day to maybe help until i know if I should turn it (unscrew), turn the whole rubber ring or just push this ring to the side or maybe cut it and remake the screw.





Post# 400970 , Reply# 1   12/20/2009 at 22:21 (5,239 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)        

2nd picture

Post# 400971 , Reply# 2   12/20/2009 at 22:24 (5,239 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)        

money shot

the brown spot on the drum isn't rust. it's some lint fragments and WD40 residue.


Post# 400993 , Reply# 3   12/21/2009 at 07:21 (5,239 days old) by unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

unimatic1140's profile picture
There is no other nut there, the pulsator will lift off now, but sometimes they get stuck. You need to employ a rocking motion to get it to loosen.

Post# 401007 , Reply# 4   12/21/2009 at 08:30 (5,238 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)        

Thanks Robert!

It worked!

:D


Tonight I'm going to continue the job. Right under it there was another rubber part that looks like a cup and it also came out easily.

Now there's some kind of coil but I couldn't indetify it clearly yet because it's covered with some kind of black grease residue.

I'll clean it tonight to have a better view and check the reoperation manual to see what to do next.

Now it's sure I need a new pulsator rubber. Now I can see it's severely damaged. That little rubber cup seems to be a little worn, but I think it can be reused.


Post# 401164 , Reply# 5   12/21/2009 at 20:33 (5,238 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)        
Update Dec 21 before sleep

Guys, if you don't mind, I'm going to use this thread as some kind of blog to post the pictures of the restoration. It can be useful to the guys that are helping me.


Thanks for all the guys that contacted me by Yahoo messenger, Skype, MSN and email.

Your help wouldn't come in better time. It was the best Christmas gift one could give me. Thank you, thank you!


Here goes some pictures I took tonight, after a quick clean using paper towels. I'm going to post the pictures sequentially.


>>>>> pulsator nut. This part is in regular condition. lots of residue inside it and one of it's "legs" is damaged. Can I use it the way it is?



Post# 401165 , Reply# 6   12/21/2009 at 20:36 (5,238 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)        

back of the same part

Post# 401166 , Reply# 7   12/21/2009 at 20:39 (5,238 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)        

the previous picture was awful... sorry... I'm using my cell phone to take those pictures.

Pulsator: It's very damaged but still useable (I think)



Post# 401167 , Reply# 8   12/21/2009 at 20:42 (5,238 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)        

Pulsator, back of it.

Post# 401168 , Reply# 9   12/21/2009 at 20:43 (5,238 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)        

Pulsator detail


Post# 401175 , Reply# 10   12/21/2009 at 20:49 (5,238 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)        

What's the name of this part?

it's very damaged. The last segment on it's bottom is so worn that it split.


actually, if I press it or pull it, it will break in several fragments.


the metal ring that looks like stainless steel looks perfect!


Post# 401176 , Reply# 11   12/21/2009 at 20:50 (5,238 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)        

same part, detail.

Post# 401177 , Reply# 12   12/21/2009 at 20:52 (5,238 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)        

same part, other detail

Post# 401179 , Reply# 13   12/21/2009 at 20:54 (5,238 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)        

more bad news....

more damaged rubber


Post# 401180 , Reply# 14   12/21/2009 at 20:55 (5,238 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)        

same area, detail 1

Post# 401182 , Reply# 15   12/21/2009 at 20:56 (5,238 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)        

same area, detail 2


And that's all for tonight.



What should I do next? (small steps, day after day)


Post# 401210 , Reply# 16   12/21/2009 at 22:25 (5,238 days old) by davy1063 (Pennsylvania)        
the rubber bellows you see....

are your Water Bellows and Oil Bellows respectively (in order of the display of the pictures. The Water Bellows stretches over the flange of the tub and is secured to the flange by the circular locking ring. Beneath the Water Bellows is your Oil Bellows. This secures to the tub nut by a smaller locking ring. You will most definately need to replace both bellows. You will also need the locking ring tool to remove and install the rings easily. If you don't have one, you can use a small C-Clamp to gently compress the ring so it unlocks. Be careful when you are using the C-Clamp on the Water Bellows as not to crush the flange on the tub. I modified my clamp by grinding a small notch in each end of the clamp so the ring wouldn't slip out (see picture)

Post# 401211 , Reply# 17   12/21/2009 at 22:30 (5,238 days old) by davy1063 (Pennsylvania)        
I'm sure you will want to remove the tub then....

so you will most likely need a 1 1/2 inch box wrench. The problem here is getting one that will fit in the tub. I went to Sears and bought one and used an angle grinder to cut it down to size (again see picture). Gently with a mallet tap the wrench counter-clockwise and the nut should come free.

Hope this helps buddy.


Post# 401212 , Reply# 18   12/21/2009 at 22:32 (5,238 days old) by davy1063 (Pennsylvania)        
My C-Clamp picture didn't load

Here it is again....

Post# 401213 , Reply# 19   12/21/2009 at 22:39 (5,238 days old) by davy1063 (Pennsylvania)        
oh yeah

See if someone has a NOS or even a used pulsator diaphragm, yours looks like a Salvatore Dali painting (The Persistance of Pulsating). I hate to see you go through replacing the bellows and having to put that old diaphragm back on. Someone out there might have a lead for you.

Davy


Post# 401293 , Reply# 20   12/22/2009 at 07:31 (5,237 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)        

Thanks dave!

--------------

I think, while I can't find the parts, I'm going to take the tub out and start a deep cleaning of it.

Would somebody help me removing the tub? The manual I have just say to check intructions on chapter one, which I don't have.

I'm sure this cleaning will consume a lot of time so I can continue playing with it without hurries to pass the time.


Post# 401301 , Reply# 21   12/22/2009 at 08:06 (5,237 days old) by turquoisedude (.)        

turquoisedude's profile picture
Don't give up on the parts! There is a place in Parma, Ohio who has turned up all kinds of Frigidaire Parts (Modern Parts House is the name of the place, phone 216-661-6966). They won't ship internationally (I was not able to have them ship spares directly to me in Canada) BUT someone here on the board may be able to act as a mail drop for you. It is worth investigating! He may have the bellows and maybe even the pulsator!!

Post# 401309 , Reply# 22   12/22/2009 at 08:28 (5,237 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)        

I have to say this restoring wouldn't be possible without Emilio Berisso's help. Thank you very much Emilio!

He's from Buenos Aires, found the machine on the Argentinian ebay (mercadolibre), sent me an alert and helped during the whole negotiation with the seller and the shipping.


Emilio, when you read this please send me an email because I lost your address.



Post# 401311 , Reply# 23   12/22/2009 at 08:35 (5,237 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)        

Thanks Paul!

Do you know if they have an email or a website? or at least the time difference?

Considering now it's 12:30 PM here in Brazil, 9:30 AM in New York, what time is it in Parma?


Post# 401312 , Reply# 24   12/22/2009 at 08:43 (5,237 days old) by unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

unimatic1140's profile picture
Removing the tub is easy and clearly described in the service books scanned in the Service Manual Library.

CLICK HERE TO GO TO unimatic1140's LINK


Post# 401315 , Reply# 25   12/22/2009 at 08:56 (5,237 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)        

Robert, thanks again for the manual.

However, even with the manual, I prefer to recheck the procedures step by step to avoid any irreversible mistake.

To remove the tub only, I just need to remove the 8 screws I can see inside it, right? Is there something else to do?


Post# 401316 , Reply# 26   12/22/2009 at 09:03 (5,237 days old) by davy1063 (Pennsylvania)        
You don't have to remove those 8 screws...

Chances are they will be seized up anyhow. All you need to do is remove the tub nut. After the nut is removed, gently rock the tub back and forth. You might have to stand in the tub and rock with your feet (I know...it sounds extreme). The tub will lift out easily. I believe there is a small key on the shaft as well, be sure not to lose that.

Post# 401317 , Reply# 27   12/22/2009 at 09:04 (5,237 days old) by turquoisedude (.)        
No email or website for Modern parts...

turquoisedude's profile picture
Thomas, Larry at Modern Parts does not have a computer so there is no way of reaching him by email. However, he does have a fax: 216-661-3400. They are in Central Time, which would be one hour ahead of New York City (so 12:30 PM in Brazil would be 10:30 AM in Parma, Ohio). I hope he can help you out here!!

Post# 401320 , Reply# 28   12/22/2009 at 09:16 (5,237 days old) by davy1063 (Pennsylvania)        

Those 8 screws just hold the hub assembly to the tub. There is no reason to take the hub assembly off of the tub. You will be able to clean the tub beautifully with the hub assembly still attached.

Post# 401347 , Reply# 29   12/22/2009 at 10:57 (5,237 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)        

... so i'm going to ask my boss to buy the 1 1/2 inch box wrench right at this moment. He's perfect to choose the best tools. In Paraguay, excellent tools like the American Stanley or the Brazilian Tramontina can be found easily but right next to "xing ling" cheap chinese crap. I don't care if i'm going to spend a little bit more to get a reliable tool that won't damage the machine or be damaged seconds before I start using it.


Thanks for the advice. I knew that the time spent rechecking the instructions before each step would worth.


Post# 401359 , Reply# 30   12/22/2009 at 11:39 (5,237 days old) by davy1063 (Pennsylvania)        

Hey, that's what we are all here for buddy!!! NEVER be afraid to ask for help.

Post# 401414 , Reply# 31   12/22/2009 at 15:39 (5,237 days old) by rollermatic (cincinnati)        
larry at modern parts house in parma

rollermatic's profile picture
does not have any oil or water bellows left. at least when i spoke with him last (several months ago). larry has no web site.

i just bought water and oil bellows from mark michaels, he might be able to get some more. he found a source in pittsburg i believe. you might also try dave's repair on the web, i bought some from him earlier this year.

i will post mark's phone no. here later tonite, don't have it available now.

good luck with it


Post# 401451 , Reply# 32   12/22/2009 at 20:14 (5,237 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)        

Thanks Peter!

I already have Mark's number and called him this morning.

Unfortunately he doesn't have these parts too.


Post# 401452 , Reply# 33   12/22/2009 at 20:17 (5,237 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)        

NO UPDATES TONIGHT.

I had to go to the supermarket with my mom, and I can't understand how Walmart can be so different in the U.S.

Here all the staff is very polite (some of them are slow as a turtle) but they are always smiling and trying to do their best to make the clients feel comfortable.


Post# 401517 , Reply# 34   12/23/2009 at 06:44 (5,237 days old) by turquoisedude (.)        
Source of Frigidaire parts....

turquoisedude's profile picture
Thomas, here is a link to an eBay auction in California for what looks like an original Frigidaire part. This seller had a number of items listed but without any photos, however, they have listed Frigidaire part numbers... This just may help with something!!

CLICK HERE TO GO TO turquoisedude's LINK on eBay


Post# 401522 , Reply# 35   12/23/2009 at 06:58 (5,237 days old) by turquoisedude (.)        
Another source...

turquoisedude's profile picture
This was posted in the Super forum - it may be of some use also!!

CLICK HERE TO GO TO turquoisedude's LINK


Post# 401531 , Reply# 36   12/23/2009 at 08:16 (5,236 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)        

Thanks!


Is that a partt of my machine? Not sure, I'll check the manual when I arrive home. (I'm at work in Paraguay now)


Post# 401795 , Reply# 37   12/24/2009 at 20:37 (5,235 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)        
Christmas update

Hi folks!
Tonight I don't have a big update due to the Christmas party, but I have something:

I'm not as good with computer as many members here, but I think I could make this picture understandable using Ms Paint.

1) this nut came out very easily and no tools required (but I still have grease on my fingers LOL)

2) It looks like some kind of seal, am I right? Not so sure, but, can it be replaced by any ordinary same diameter seal?

3)I'm supposed to remove this nut right? Is there any special tip or something to take an extra care or I can just use a wrench and a hammer?


Post# 401815 , Reply# 38   12/25/2009 at 00:31 (5,235 days old) by unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

unimatic1140's profile picture
A. Just unscrew #1 (be sure to bend the tab on the lockwasher down),

B. pull off #2 (the copper lock-washer to prevent #1 from undoing).

C. The tub will now pull out. Part #3 is simply part of the hub that is bolted to the tub.


Post# 401883 , Reply# 39   12/25/2009 at 15:01 (5,234 days old) by davy1063 (Pennsylvania)        

sure as hell came off easier than my WCIL tub bolt!

Post# 401920 , Reply# 40   12/25/2009 at 18:30 (5,234 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)        

Wooooo hoooooooo!

The tub was released...

Next issue:

Removing the tub from the machine


It weights like hell and I can't do this alone.
(maybe I should ask one or two or all of the five sexy security guards to help me LOL)


Post# 402087 , Reply# 41   12/26/2009 at 20:32 (5,233 days old) by rollermatic (cincinnati)        
i spoke with mark michaels

rollermatic's profile picture
today and i asked him about the bellows you need. he says he has them both! that's a big step towards getting your machine running again.

also when you pull the tub out be careful not to damage in any way the water seal. they are pretty much n.l.a.

i always put a plastic bag or a cut off 2 liter coke bottle over mine to keep it from getting knicked from anything. it has to be perfect to seal properly. the other side of it is the bronze mating surface that will be attached to the bottom of your tub when you pull it. this can also be easily removed if you like ( i put mine in a plastic bag) until you are ready to reinstall tub.

good luck


Post# 402108 , Reply# 42   12/26/2009 at 22:51 (5,233 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)        
Update Dec 26 - Saturday night

Thanks Peter! Your help is also very welcome an important to this restoration.

This afternoon the restoration had a great evolution. It was very pleasant to have Steve (Gyrafoam) following the work and helping me step by step during the whole afternoon and beginning of evening. We had a lot of fun on Skype.

First he gave me the courage to try to remove the tub by myself. I'm strong, but I was thinking the tub was too heavy and afraid I wouldn't be able to handle it, let it fall and damage the shaft.
after rechecking all the steps with Steve and also putting an old door mat on the floor to avoid any grease stains on it and also placing a piece of fabric in the drain plug to avoid loosing the shaft key, I used all my force to pull that tub out.

Instantly I discovered the "it weights like hell" isn't much heavier than a modern tub. Well, it's heavy, but not like hell. LOL

Than I had good and bad news:


The tub looks like new. It has some hard water stains and the hub is a little bit rusted but nothing that can't be easily removed. that little cap on the balance ring is perfect.

There is (there was because i cleaned it already) a lot of lint on the tub drain holes.

the bottom of the cabinet is rusted, but luckily nothing too serious too.

the hard water + lint + detergent and softener residues created some kind of coating that protected the bottom and part of the sides of the cabinet.

That big rubber part (I forgot it's name) looks awful, all the screws are severely rusted and there are some "bubbles" on it, but it clearly shows it will give me many other years of use before it needs replacing.

Bad news, and I was saved by the webcam.

Steve warned me about that locking tabs, copper ring, etc.
Again, my idea to recheck all the instructions in real time and if possible with an expert following everything by the webcam worked perfectly.


There's a nut and a thin metal (looks like steel or aluminum) washer under it.

Like a curious kid, I gently tried to bounce the shaft and (good news) that huge nut isn't tight, so I won't need a wrench to remove it. YAY!

The work stopped because I'll need to turn the machine (I don't want to damage my bedroom's floor) to reach the rear opening of it and place something (or maybe ask a friend) to hold the motor and the transmission before I remove that nut, as I don't want it to fall and damage the drain pump.

Bad news: inside the nut there's a part (Steve said it's name but I can't remember now) that looks like a rubber ring with a small metal coil that acts almost like a rubber band.
I can see that part is very damaged (it has some holes) and it wasn't difficult to remove that coil and put it back.

Now I'm going to take a break (clean the tub while that) until I can release that transmission.

Next step after removing it is disassembling the transmission and cleaning all the parts.

Maybe I'll take it to an auto repair shop to wash the parts using an ultrasonic washing machine. or just let it soak for a few days in "thinner".

I'm going to finally clean up my bedroom (mom says it looks like a warehouse) and make room for a table that I'll use to work on the transmission.


The way things are going, Steve with his precious help in real time and you with precious help by this thread, my machine will be like new in less than a month + parts delivery time.




------------------------------

Big question: What's the best way to remove all that rust?
I have a product that I use to remove rust stains on fabrics and ceramic floors that works great. It has oxalic acid in it's formula.

I'm sure it's going to make the rust "dissapear" in seconds but.... it it safe? Won't it corrode even more?

What would you do to remove that rust? i mean, everything seems to be ok even with the rust. Should I really remove it or just leave it as it is?

Steve found all parts I'm going to need. he's just waiting until I reach the transmission to see if I won't need more parts and order all of them at once.

By the way, the lid hande and the "Frigidaire made only by GM" plate weren't found yet. Somebody....? Please!


Here goes a video, this is NOT my machine but exactly how I want my machine to be..

It's owner is also very handsome... Maybe someday I'll be handsome like him LOL. Who's he?


CLICK HERE TO GO TO thomasortega's LINK


Post# 402216 , Reply# 43   12/27/2009 at 15:41 (5,232 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)        
Update Dec 27 - 7:40 PM

I just decided to hold my restoration until Brian (BrianL) reach the same point, so we can both be helped at the same time.

Please check his thread "Look what I found".


Post# 402262 , Reply# 44   12/27/2009 at 20:05 (5,232 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        

brianl's profile picture
I am wondering if Mark Michaels source in Pittsburgh is that person who posted on Craigslist Pittsburgh (Post 401522 by turqoisedude) I tried e-mailing but the posting is too old and I get a return e-mail.

Hey rollermatic, does Mark have any contact info, I couldn't find it on the site. Maybe I am missing something. I wuuld definitely like to purchase a couple parts and backup parts in case. I want to see this washer run a lifetime :)


Post# 402263 , Reply# 45   12/27/2009 at 20:11 (5,232 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        

brianl's profile picture
Thank you so much Tom for waiting on me to catch up. I am looking to start pulling apart early this week to see what needs to be done to the machine. If it is easier, should I just start posting here about mine or continue certain information on my thread? Don't want to hijack the thread :)

Post# 402280 , Reply# 46   12/27/2009 at 22:33 (5,232 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)        

Brian, please feel free to choose the thread to post.

I have a suggestion, just to help keeping both threads organized and make things easier for both of us and the lovely guys that are helping us.

When you start your restoration, post the opdates in your thread (but don't forget to follow this one too)
and when you reach me, you can just start posting on this thread or I can go to your thread so it will be easier for our helpers to help us.

I'm going to wait for you but don't take too much time as I took because I can't waste too much time as I have a long path to run to send the money and the payment order reach the U.S.

I don't know, but maybe, if we place our orders together (bigger order) we could ask for a discount or something like that. According to Steve, considering only the parts I already know I'm going to need, it will cost me aproximately 200 dollars not including the shipping to Brazil.


Honestly I'm almost sure you're going to need only the unexpensive bearings and maybe (or maybe not) the water and oil bellows.

If your timer motor is dead... welcome to the club again. Ingraham motors are NLA. My boss still trying to fix mine.


Post# 402307 , Reply# 47   12/28/2009 at 06:17 (5,232 days old) by rollermatic (cincinnati)        
i talked to mark

rollermatic's profile picture
2 days ago about a clock motor for my flair stove and he says this guy still has some stuff and can "possibly get more" wherever that comes from. one thing about mark, he will not give out any info on who this guy is, obviously he doesn't want us dealing with the guy directly. i can understand that i guess, mark is trying to "sell" here and make some profit.

but it is frustrating for me as i would love to talk to guy directly about some possible parts. oh well!

i e mailed on that post from the guy in pittsburgh also assuming it was mark's contact but as yet have had no response. my e mail did not come back however.

mark did tell me he has more bellows which is good for all us frigidaire collectors. i probably bought the last of his water seals as i bought 5 of them. i know he has timers for rollermatic models and has a motor for a 1-18.

i myself am now looking for a small solonoid that attaches to the timer of my 65 custom imperial. it shifts the timer motor into a higher speed by using this solonoid and linkage, thus making parts of the cycle shorter. mine promply burnt up the other day when i was testing the cycles. oh well, i'm just glad the timer itself was not damaged in the fall from the truck last summer. but if anyone knows of a place to buy small solonoids please do tell!

thanks


Post# 402321 , Reply# 48   12/28/2009 at 08:15 (5,231 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        

brianl's profile picture
Yes definitely, I would like to get my hands on some water and oil bellows, bearings, seals, etc. that are hard to find. I also noticed the terms inner and outer bellows. Does this refer to the bellows respectively? If Mark has any bellows, seals, or bearings, I would want to buy.

You must of e-mailed the guy before the 26th in ? I was on the 27th and that's probably why my e-mail bounced.

Thomas, I will definitely moved as quickly as possible to catch up. Could you post a few of the steps to how you got the cabinet apart and the agitator off or was that in the service manual. I did not have an opportunity to read yet.


Post# 402332 , Reply# 49   12/28/2009 at 09:13 (5,231 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)        

Brian, taking the cabinet afart is much easier that you can believe.

You just have to remove the two big screws you can see on both sides of the lid and two long screws on each back corner of the machine, right below the backsplash (one of the screws is next to the out of balance switch)
don't forget to release the fill hose that comes from the solenoids and also try to release some of the wiring (you don't need to disconnect anything, just give it some space to move)

taking the pulsator and the tub out is easy and there are some pictures in my thread.

Your pulsator is a little bit different than mine, but I think the mounting is the same. (Could an expert please confirm this information? Thanks!)
- remove the pulsator cap
- remove the screw that looks like a hook (this can be easily done without any tool)
- use a proper wrench or plier to remove the pulsator nut. some extra force might be necessary but be careful because that nut is reasonably fragile.
- remove the pulsator. It micht be stuck, so you have to rock it and pull at the same time.
- to release the water and oild bellows, you can see the step by step instructions and also some pictures on my thread.


Post# 402333 , Reply# 50   12/28/2009 at 09:15 (5,231 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)        

Peter, what are you going to do with 5 water seals?


you know... there's a very nice guy in Brazil that needs only one of those. Isn't that a good ocasion to be generous? LOL


Post# 402334 , Reply# 51   12/28/2009 at 09:16 (5,231 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)        

By the way Peter... please check your yahoo messenger. I tried to add you to my list.

Post# 402343 , Reply# 52   12/28/2009 at 09:38 (5,231 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        

brianl's profile picture
me over here, I may need one of those lol. Hey if I can get my hands on a small bunch, that would be great. Gotta talk to that Mark guy.

Post# 402347 , Reply# 53   12/28/2009 at 09:58 (5,231 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)        

Brian, is your email address valid?


I tried to add you and send relevant information, but it didn't work.


Post# 402355 , Reply# 54   12/28/2009 at 10:45 (5,231 days old) by mickeyd (Hamburg NY)        
Beware the bellows, fellows

mickeyd's profile picture
Thanks Tom

You and Brian should know that the oil bellows is a fine little guy who pops off & on real nice, real easy, but the Water Girl is a real challenge. After dozens of failed attempts, I finally slicked up the lip on the hub in the tub with liquid dish soap, soaked the bellows in hot water, slicked her bottom coil with soap, and slipped the O ring up in the coils. It's easier to slide it down than to pull it up. Finally--ON-- but not after biting the hair off my wrist. OOWWWWWW ;'D

If I had known about using the C wrench, this baby would have been fixed sooner. Be glad to know about it. That way you won't have to wait to find or borrow the very rare bellows wrenches.

If you haven't learned patience yet, Unimatic repair is the best teacher.


Post# 402356 , Reply# 55   12/28/2009 at 10:49 (5,231 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        
E-Mail is legit

brianl's profile picture
Where are you trying to add me?

Post# 402384 , Reply# 56   12/28/2009 at 11:57 (5,231 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)        

Windows Live Messenger.

Post# 402386 , Reply# 57   12/28/2009 at 12:04 (5,231 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)        

Michael

Please don't remind me that yet LOL


I know it's going to be one of the worst parts of the restoration. That was the first thing i thought when i removed the remaining part of the old bellows.

there's something that works much better than liquid soap.... KY jelly!

Liquid soap, oil (soap has oil) and strong chemical lubricants may damage the rubber after some years. KY jelly is water based so, if it's safe to use with a condom which is also made of latex, it will be much more gentle with a thick latex rubber.


Post# 402389 , Reply# 58   12/28/2009 at 12:17 (5,231 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        

brianl's profile picture
I will check my messenger later, not sure why it is not adding.

Post# 402398 , Reply# 59   12/28/2009 at 13:09 (5,231 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)        

so try to add my email...

Post# 402508 , Reply# 60   12/28/2009 at 22:25 (5,231 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        
Try now

brianl's profile picture
I just added you to my network. It seems like you did everything ok, just that I had to confirm you. Let me know.

Brian


Post# 402516 , Reply# 61   12/28/2009 at 23:19 (5,231 days old) by rollermatic (cincinnati)        
i just saw your question about the water seals

rollermatic's profile picture
i bought 5 of them because i have 6 rollermatics, 5 are functional machines (or will soon be) and the last one has a completelty destroyed tub so it will be a parts machine. so i bought 5 for the five i intend to run.

i'm sorry i cannot let one go at this time. your's might be fine, they don't take a lot of abuse like a perforated tub washer seal would. i mean they are never really completely immersed in water as when the washer spins and throws it's water the water level never rises to the height of the tub seal. at least not in a rollermatic and i would assume the same for a unimatic from what i have seen of them so far in the tech manual on them. personally i would concentrate on getting a water and oil bellows, that you def will need!


Post# 402532 , Reply# 62   12/29/2009 at 04:45 (5,231 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)        

Thanks Peter!

Don't worry, I was just kidding.
Mine is very worn, there are some "bubbles" on it's surface but it still usable and of course I won't touch it.






Post# 402546 , Reply# 63   12/29/2009 at 08:06 (5,230 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)        
Little update tonight

As my boss just said he's going to help me removing the transmission/motor from the machine, I'll just do it tonight.
2 people are better than one for this step as one can hold everything on the bottom while the other removes the nut.

I just want to recheck the steps, like always:

- disconnect the drain hose
- disconnect the tub-to-pump hose
- disconnect the motor and solenoid wires (is there any special thing that requires extra atention?)
- unscrew the nut while holding the motor. (I'm considering it's very heavy, isn't it?)
- carefully remove the motor and transmission from it's place (slowly and carefuly to don't damage the water seal or the transmission shaft.)


What's the best position to keep the motor after it's removed? If it keep it upwards, won't it's weight damage the pump? If I put it on it's side, won't the oil leak?

I won't disassemble the transmission today. I'll wait for Brian.



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