Thread Number: 26153
Look what I found!
[Down to Last]

automaticwasher.org's exclusive eBay Watch:
scroll >>> for more items --- [As an eBay Partner, eBay may compensate automaticwasher.org if you make a purchase using any link to eBay on this page]
Post# 401544   12/23/2009 at 09:32 (5,229 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        

brianl's profile picture
I want it so bad, but that is sort of out of my price range.

CLICK HERE TO GO TO brianl's LINK on Albany Craigslist





Post# 401547 , Reply# 1   12/23/2009 at 09:42 (5,229 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        
For you twin-tub fans

brianl's profile picture
Post# 401548 , Reply# 2   12/23/2009 at 09:48 (5,229 days old) by turquoisedude (.)        
That Frigidaire...

turquoisedude's profile picture
is not such a bad deal, if it has been reconditioned... You could easily buy a machine for $100 and then wind up sinking $400 or $500 into parts and restoration... Care to guess which of my machines fit in THAT category?? LOL
Happy Holidays!!


Post# 401552 , Reply# 3   12/23/2009 at 09:59 (5,229 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        

brianl's profile picture
Well I'm not sure, lemme think about it for a bit lol :)

Post# 401553 , Reply# 4   12/23/2009 at 10:02 (5,229 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        

brianl's profile picture
Post# 401556 , Reply# 5   12/23/2009 at 10:22 (5,229 days old) by mickeyd (Hamburg NY)        
Hi Brian

mickeyd's profile picture
It says reconditioned. I wonder who the washer whiz is down in Schenectady!
What a gem. Time now to check out the Dexter and the Hoover. Thanks for lunch time eye candy.


Post# 401558 , Reply# 6   12/23/2009 at 10:41 (5,229 days old) by mickeyd (Hamburg NY)        
Non-washer people are so funny

mickeyd's profile picture
All Mister Dexter had to do was swing the machine around to give us s view of the front and the controls; the backside, however, looks pretty good for its age.

Gram's Hoover looks almost mint, not such a bad version of avocado either.


Post# 401571 , Reply# 7   12/23/2009 at 12:14 (5,229 days old) by norfolksouthern ()        
That Frigidaire is cheap!

If it works and doesn't leak, then the seller is probably pricing it that way for a quick sale. And yes, it can cost over and above $400.00 for a restoration, like turquoisedude said.

NorfolkSouthern


Post# 401585 , Reply# 8   12/23/2009 at 13:31 (5,229 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        
What the heck

brianl's profile picture
I think I am gonna contact the seller and see what the deal is. It seems like a very nice washer, and I would love to see and inside shot if they have one. Can anyone put a specific model that this would be? I am thinking a WO 65-2, but I am very novice to these yet.

Thanks everyone,
Brian


Post# 401593 , Reply# 9   12/23/2009 at 14:42 (5,229 days old) by laundryboy (Orlando Florida & Moravia NY. )        
Twin Tub

laundryboy's profile picture
I would love that twin tub, I have the matching hoover dryer..

Post# 401596 , Reply# 10   12/23/2009 at 14:48 (5,229 days old) by rollermatic (cincinnati)        
personally i would try to

rollermatic's profile picture
find out what "reconditioned" means. i'm thinking new bearings, pump seal, tub seal, water and oil bellows. or he could just have simply cleaned it up a bit and slapped that "reconditioned" label on it.

but it does look nice although def out of my league right now, i have to recover from my 2009 spending spree on appliances! i am now "appliance cash poor".

hope someone here grabs it and has a ball with it!


Post# 401601 , Reply# 11   12/23/2009 at 15:08 (5,229 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        
Well I have some good news everyone!

brianl's profile picture
I am the proud owner the Frigidaire Unimatic WO-65! When I spoke to the guy, he was very nice and up front with me. His daughter actually posted the Ad, but he said that he went over it and whatnot, not what he would call "reconditioned". He picked it up from an older gentleman and made him an offer for it. The older gentleman said it works fine and completes a cycle with no problems. He said he has no problem letting it go for $200. So basically I offered him the $200 and it's mine! He will hold it for me as I gave him my name and number and we will be scheduling a date for me to pick it up. to see it and see it washing in person. Seems like an awesome washer.

Which style agitator does anyone think is on it? I was trying to compare it to one I have seen here.


Post# 401605 , Reply# 12   12/23/2009 at 15:22 (5,229 days old) by rollermatic (cincinnati)        
for 200 bucks

rollermatic's profile picture
sounds great! that other price seemed a bit steep to me, not clarifying what "reconditioned" meant. but for 200 even if it does later need some work there are parts still floating around, i have found lots myself for my rollermatics. and there are lots of guys here who have experience with these old frigidaires who can help you if needed!

congrats on a great find!!! tons of pics please when you get it!!!


Post# 401611 , Reply# 13   12/23/2009 at 16:01 (5,229 days old) by mickeyd (Hamburg NY)        
Great Christmas Present

mickeyd's profile picture
I hope it's perfect, Brian

The pulsator should look something or exactly like this.


Post# 401614 , Reply# 14   12/23/2009 at 16:13 (5,229 days old) by mickeyd (Hamburg NY)        
What's cool about this model is that it shoots water out

mickeyd's profile picture
arranged around the top of the column. At full water level, they squirt very nicely and orderly.

Post# 401623 , Reply# 15   12/23/2009 at 17:20 (5,229 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)        

Be careful


When I saw my WO-65 on ebai, the seller said it was perfect, almost mint in box, almost never used, blah, blah, blah.

So new that maybe it would come with a box of Tide in it and with the original crating LOL.



What I received was what you can see on the thread I created.

...lots of work to do.



Anyway, no matter about the price, a Frigidaire IS a Frigidaire and worth every cent.


Post# 401767 , Reply# 16   12/24/2009 at 16:35 (5,228 days old) by bygted ()        
Nice !

I had just found that ad last week and for some reason I put off getting in touch with the seller.
Looks like my search for one continues !

I am happy that someone from this forum got it - and that's really awesome that he was willing to drop his price for you.

Please post some pics when you get her home!
Congrats!



Post# 402054 , Reply# 17   12/26/2009 at 17:17 (5,226 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        
My Frigidaire UniMatic Washing

brianl's profile picture




type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344">


Post# 402055 , Reply# 18   12/26/2009 at 17:20 (5,226 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        
My Frigidaire UniMatic Spinning

brianl's profile picture




type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344">


Post# 402056 , Reply# 19   12/26/2009 at 17:37 (5,226 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        
Some problems though :(

brianl's profile picture
The timer does not advance and only in certain time intervals does it stop filling and agitate. For example, if I leave it on 8 or 10 minutes in the wash section, it will not stop filling. If I move it to 6, it will start to agitate. Other times I will need to bring it to the agitate section of rinse, and then it will work to agitate at the 6 minute mark on the wash cycle. In either case, I need to manually advance the time through the cycles. I have the double-rinse timer.

Also it either fills hot or it fills cold, but it will not fill warm like the switch shows. It leaks a bit, but I am not sure if that was due to me not stopping the fill soon enough when it reached the opening in the tub to drain out. Since the pump was not running yet, I am wondering if it overfilled internally as a lot of water pumped out when it began to agitate. Since then it did not seem to dump more water on the floor that I could tell.

From what I got so far, it says Model WO-65, but I forgot to snap a pic and the other ones I had did not come out. I will post some soon.

Thanks,
Brian


Post# 402081 , Reply# 20   12/26/2009 at 20:22 (5,226 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

qsd-dan's profile picture
Congrats Brian!

Take in consideration of the age of the unit and be thankful it actually works. There are many here who have got a hold of these and had to perform extensive repairs, not including the hunt to locate parts, before enjoying the unit.

The bearings sound a little noisy during the spin, but they're a standard size(s) so not too much to worry about there. I'd recommend getting a hold of an inner and outer bellows for the future (or for when you want to replace the bearings). You'll want to change the oil in the mechanism soon down the road. Try Larry at Modern Parts for a new timer, but hang on to the old timer for parts.

I haven't had any first hand experience with a unimatic, so others here will chime in with more/better advice.

Again, congrats!


Post# 402105 , Reply# 21   12/26/2009 at 22:44 (5,226 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        

swestoyz's profile picture
Hey Brian -

Nice WO-65 you have there. Appears to have a 1956 Pulsator column/cap/rings with a 1950-1952 WO-65 diaphragm. Interesting!

The timer does not advance and only in certain time intervals does it stop filling and agitate.

Early Frigidaire timers work a bit different in the wash section than your typical washing machine. It is a ingenious design to compensate for the solid tub. Simply put, there is a special cam just for the wash fill that appropriately adjusts the fill time regardless of where you set the timer in the wash portion of the cycle. This special cam gets reset each time you pass through an entire cycle. To see if this is still functioning, cycle the timer through an entire cycle then set the wash time at the 4 minute mark. It should in theory start to fill when you turn the machine on. If it does, it is working fine.

Also it either fills hot or it fills cold, but it will not fill warm like the switch shows.

Sounds like the water valve has been replaced with a newer, non-thermostatic water valve (plain hot/cold). This is a pain. I've gotten around this by replacing the valve with a Dole 3-temp thermostatic valve. I suspect it is also possible to wire a relay to engage both solenoids for a WARM wash/rinse.

It leaks a bit, but I am not sure if that was due to me not stopping the fill soon enough when it reached the opening in the tub to drain out.

There really isn't anywhere for the water to go besides the cabinet cavity. I'd check to make sure that all the hoses are not cracked and are sealing around the flanges from the bulkhead of the cabinet to the pump ports. If it is still leaking check to see if water is coming from the fill hose, or also from the top of the pump body. If it is coming from the top of the pump body it is time to replace the pump seal (getting hard to find, most places do not have this).

It also sounds like the bearing is causing a stir during spin as well. Could be a sign that water has breached the mechanism, or maybe not. Defiantely would warrant a rebuild.

Don't be discouraged by the attention it needs. Start hunting locally for parts - and ask every store. You may hear NO 100 times and turn away, but 101th time could be a YES!

Ben


Post# 402113 , Reply# 22   12/26/2009 at 23:10 (5,226 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)        

Hey Brian!


Congratulations for your machine! It looks great!

I can see there's some work to do, but it's very clear it's much better shape than mine.

If you take a look at my thread, you'll see a Frigidaire Unimatic can hide wonderful news and some bad surprises, but the important is never give up.

My friend Steve (Gyrafoam) is helping me by Skype and many other members are helping by email or that thread.


I'm not an Unimatic expert yet but during this whole week I discovered things can be much easier than I thought, specially with a priceless help from our automaticwasher.org friends.


I recommend that you try to fix that bearing and check the water and oil bellows before using the machine again. If the bellows are damaged, water can mix with the oil and cause a huge damage to the transmssion.

Believe me, it's very easy to be done. You just need some persistance, patience and wonderful friends.

Welcome to the VIP Unimatic Owners Club.


Post# 402154 , Reply# 23   12/27/2009 at 08:51 (5,226 days old) by appnut (TX)        

appnut's profile picture
Brian, it's filling corectly, even with a bit overflowing before it finishes filling for wash. Leave it be!!! The flow rate may be a bit faster than what was specified if the valve has been replaced. Ya put the detergent in the pulsator column and put the rubber cap back on. Start the machine and let it do its thing automatically. The nice thing about that slight overflow fill before it finishes filling for wash is that any floating dirt or reidue is sent over the top before it starts washing. All this was pretty common for most solid-tub machines. With it being a WO60 and not a WO65-2, you get two complete rinses rather than the overflow rinse at the end of the wash as well as the overflow rinse cycle. You're a very lucky man!!

Post# 402196 , Reply# 24   12/27/2009 at 13:46 (5,225 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        
Looks like the original water valve

brianl's profile picture
I noticed a picture of the water valve from the service manual on this site, and it looks like the original one. Looks like some work was done on the washer though, as the 2 wires from the motor are cut after about 3 inches and new wires run to the terminal jacks with some electrical tape to join the new and old wires. I noticed the service manual said it is a 4 minute fill, so I might just try turning down the water pressure and time 4 minutes out to see what happens. Is this a good test to try? Could the timer not be giving power appropriately to allow for a warm mix of water?

Could there be some other reason why the timer is not advancing or is it just the motor being burned out. I was thinking something along the lines or a loose wire to the timer motor or something.

Is it possible for the inner cavity of the washer to overfill and leak? When the washer went into wash cycle, it was pumping out extra water for close to 2 minutes before it finally stopped. Does this mean that a certain amount of water always stays in the cabinet until the next wash? I noticed water not really pumping out during the drain and spin, but only when it goes to the next wash or rinse cycle.

I would like to thank everyone for their support so far. I want to be very careful with this machine and am easily intimidated by its complexity and lack of readily available parts. I see why this machine is highly cherished in the group, and I am glad to have found it. It was about a 2 1/2 hour drive each way yesterday, but worth it. Looks like it still has its original Delco motor in it. I hope I didn't duplicate any questions here and will definitely see what other threads here can help me out with.

Thanks again,
Brian


Post# 402214 , Reply# 25   12/27/2009 at 15:36 (5,225 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)        

Brian
THe first thing I recommend is stop using the machine immediatelly and check some vital parts before continue using it.

Those Ingraham motors used on the timers are famous for their unreliability. (wow, now I'm talking like an Unimatic expert LOL)
It's very easy to check the timer motor.

UNPLUG THE MACHINE BEFORE ANY SERVICE TO AVOID ELECTRICAL SHOCK RISKS!

Remove the dial, the screw right behind it and the little nut on the hot/warm selector to remoce the crome plate.
Then you'll see the timer, it has 4 screws. Remove them.
Pull out the timer, but be careful as you don't want to damage the wires or the terminals.

right on the back of the timer, you'll see the motor (it's black and round) and on it's side, there are two wires connected side by side.

carefully disconnect those two wires and connect a test wire (any double wire with a plug) and plug it directly to the outlet.

You should see the motor running.


The Unimatic's pump runs during the whole cycle so, if the tub overflows during the fill, the water will start draining as soon as the machine starts agitating. The Unimatic never keeps water in the cabinet until the next load.

I think you should also let the machien dry completely, remove it's top and clean the area between the cabinet and the tub, specially the botto. It's not unusual to find lint buttons or any other debris in that area that could clog the drain of even damage the pump.

I also recommend that you really check the water and oil bellows. those are two of the most important vital parts of your machine. If they are worn or damaged, some water will enter the transmission and cause a disaster.


As I told before, I thought it would be very difficult to disassemble the machine, but with all the help from many club members, specially Steve, I discover day after day these machines are very simple and the work is much easier than I thought.


Also, don't be afraid to ask twice, 3 times or a million of times the same thing until you understand perfectly each step of a restoation. Even Robert, who's knowledge is impressive or Steve, who helps me like phisically in front of my machine had many questions to ask when they restored an unimatic by the first time.

I just added you to my msn so I can help you in real time (up to the point i've reached in my restoration) if you want.
Also, I believe Steve would be very glad to help you too.


The best of all. I discovered by my own experience that most of the tools the manual says you'll need can be replaced by tools that you may already have at home or find in good hardware stores. On my thread you can see many answers, including pictures of helpful tools and some step by step instructions that are updated almost every day.

If you want, I can also put my restoration on hold until you reach the same point, so we can do this together and be helped together.

And even being hard to find the parts, it's not impossible and not so difficult as I thought too.






Post# 402252 , Reply# 26   12/27/2009 at 19:11 (5,225 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        
Thank you Thomas!

brianl's profile picture
I think I will be learning a lot from your thread and may be able to benefit from the knowledge you gained. I did forget to mention that it actually only leaks on spin. After the overfill on the wash cycle, I dried everything up, and had made a second attempt that same day and noticed no leaking until it spun out the water. I definitely want to fix those bearings though and get the machine running nice and smoothly. Any information on what bearings I am supposed to look for would be great.

Do I need any specific parts before I start taking the machine apart. The bellows and seals seem to be a hard item to locate I noticed from your thread and that some parts were NLA (forgot which ones at the moment.) Is there a parts book or something with part numbers? I would like to be able to do some research online for stuff if possible.

Lastly, I would hate to delay you on your restoration if you are that far ahead. I am pretty slow at times, and could probably follow off of yours if I need assistance. I will probably need all the help I can get though, and am glad you will be around if I need it as well as the rest of the group. We should start up a Frigidaire class with lots of information and train some people to be certified Unimatic repair experts!


Post# 402257 , Reply# 27   12/27/2009 at 19:49 (5,225 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)        

Brian, the only tooks I used when I started the restoration was a pressure plier (is it the correct definition in english) that I used to remove the pulsator nut without damaging it.

I think the most important to always have in mind is that it's a 55+ years old lady so, be gentle, always!

During the last week I had a lot of time to work on the frigidaire because of the Christmas. My times are also tight and when I have time, it's usually after 10pm and I can't make much noise as I live in an apartment and I don't want to disturb my neighbours.

Tomorrow I have to go back to work, but I'll have some days off again starting on 31st until the next monday. I think it will be enough to disassemble the whole transmission.

on Jan 4th, a new vacation's intensive course starts at the school I teach so I won't have time at all for a whole month, except sundays. and I'll be usually tired and it will be the only day I'll have time to do all my laundry and iron everything so the frigidaire will be on second plan.

I hope I can disassemble the whole transmission until there to let it soaking to remove the rust.


On march I'll probably receive the parts and start reassembling it, April is my birthday and on May (if everything goes fine as planned) I'll spend some days in the US visiting some AW.org members and making new friends.

Now I have a washing machine in front of my bed (i can touch it with my toes), the tub on the right side and the top cover and the lid on the left side. (I can also touch them with my toes). I think i'm sleeping in heaven with this decoration LOL.




Post# 402260 , Reply# 28   12/27/2009 at 19:56 (5,225 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        

brianl's profile picture
Sounds like you got your work planned out for you. When you say "pressure pliers", I guess you are referring to vice-grips? This is my first ever taking a machine apart, as I am still waiting on parts for my Whirlpool. I am so nervous about screwing something up, but I think with everyones help, you and I can get our Unimatic's up and running. Maybe your friend Steve can order us both parts lol. I appreciate all the words of confidence.

Thanks,
Brian


Post# 402277 , Reply# 29   12/27/2009 at 22:11 (5,225 days old) by appnut (TX)        

appnut's profile picture
Brian, the water doesn't completely leave the cabinet until the final spin. the pump is kinda weak, but that's how it was back then. Unimatics are wonderful washers. Since I kinda grwe up with these and other solid tubs, I can't quite relate to your perplexity and concern about the water in the cabinet. But it's all functioning properly. The spins between the wash and rinses is long enough to get most of the water out of the clothes. Residual water is pumped out druing each rine. But there's always some water kinda bouncing out of the tub holes up top. I think you'd be even more perplexed, or maybe put more at ease, if it was a WO65-2 with overflow rinses. If you haven't experienced it yet, I cannot wait until you do a 140 degree hot water wash and it throws that hot wash water against the cabinet. It's such a rush, ya might need a cigarette afterwards.

Post# 402324 , Reply# 30   12/28/2009 at 08:20 (5,225 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        
What if I don't smoke ;)

brianl's profile picture
My partner might leave me if he sees me to excited by my washers :) Nonetheless, that spin cycle is wicked. Even though the feet were level, it started walking across my floor a little. My load was a bit unbalanced, and until it started getting up to a good speed, it kinda decided to go for a little walk to my surprise!

Post# 402361 , Reply# 31   12/28/2009 at 11:02 (5,224 days old) by mickeyd (Hamburg NY)        
Brian, I had the same trouble with overfilling in the '5

mickeyd's profile picture
The machine had passed thru at least five Aworg brothers.
It is a beautiful machine, as you might imagine with the care it has received.
But the new timer motor installed somewhere along the great parade of owners--maybe Mark Lightedcontrols-- caused the machine to overfill.

(If you were getting a two minute pump out after the first fill, you were filling the tub TWICE!)

I did what you were talking about. Reduced the pressure at the faucets till the fill level matched the fill time. Works perfectly. We had the same idea.

Good luck with your beautiful machine. Make sure the round little metal feet are level. If not, adjust, and the walking should stop.


Post# 402366 , Reply# 32   12/28/2009 at 11:17 (5,224 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        

brianl's profile picture
Even though I reduced the water pressure, I let it go for close to 6 minutes, and it still did not go in wash. Even at the 4 minute mark. If I bring it to a rinse agitate, it will immediately start to work. Then bring it back to the 4 minute mark on the wash, and it will begin to agitate. Really strange. As before, I only noticed it leaking during spin and not any other time. Not sure what that is about. Are the bellows save-able if they are working fine, or should they be replaced?

Post# 402371 , Reply# 33   12/28/2009 at 11:24 (5,224 days old) by mickeyd (Hamburg NY)        
Don go near them if they're working fine--Good Lord

mickeyd's profile picture
I'm tellin' ya Brain: putting on a Unimatc water bellows is one of the hardest things ever. Maybe the pros know some tricks, but if yours are fine and dandy, count yer lucky stars, Man, and let them be.

Leaks during spin: did you check the hose that leads from the pump to the drain hose port for tiny leaks?


Post# 402382 , Reply# 34   12/28/2009 at 11:53 (5,224 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)        

If the bellows are working fine (of course you'll check carefully BEFORE removing them) I think you won't need to remove them.

However (I hate this word), you'll have to remobe them to reach the transmission to replace those fu**ing bearings).

A lady like that wouldn't like to be heard by the neighbours 1 mile away from you.


Post# 402388 , Reply# 35   12/28/2009 at 12:15 (5,224 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        
Darn those bearings

brianl's profile picture
I will definitely check the bellows out and I have a c-clamp, so I will carefully remove the ring that holds the bellows down. I will take pics as I go in case I get stuck. Gotta check the hose when I got it apart. I am sure it could use a new one anyway after all these years.

Thanks,
Brian


Post# 402391 , Reply# 36   12/28/2009 at 12:19 (5,224 days old) by mickeyd (Hamburg NY)        
Brian,

mickeyd's profile picture
what happens when you start the machine at "10" and slowly advance the timer to "6" ? Does the agitation begin? Getting very curious as to what your machine is doing?

You know of course that you can always advance the timer to shorten a fill, yes?


Post# 402397 , Reply# 37   12/28/2009 at 13:07 (5,224 days old) by jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)        
Amazing find in the old

jetcone's profile picture
Home Town.

Post working pics when you get it.


Post# 402402 , Reply# 38   12/28/2009 at 13:37 (5,224 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        

brianl's profile picture
Hey Mike,

Was not aware you can advance the timer to shorten a wash fill, just a rinse fill I thought. Can you advance the timer while it is pushed in and running? I would advance the timer by pulling out and moving it a minute or 2 and then pushing it back in. Only after I bring it to the rinse and then back to the wash cycle at 4 minutes, will it start to agitate. Left to its own devices, it will keep filling in the wash cycle and never stop. Maybe I am resetting something?

Hey Jon,

Yes looking forward to taking some pics. Should have taken longer video of the cycles, but my memory card was telling me otherwise.


Post# 402408 , Reply# 39   12/28/2009 at 14:11 (5,224 days old) by unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

unimatic1140's profile picture
Brian the way the timer works is when you select a wash time and push the dial in the timer automatically fills for 4 minutes (8 increment-clicks) and on the 9th click it starts agitation.

Try this pull the dial out and turn it all the around to off and push it in. Now pull the dial out and turn it to 10 minutes of wash and push it in. With the dial PUSHED IN, turn it until it starts to agitate (around the '6' on the dial).

Next pull the dial out and turn it around to off and push it in to reset it again. Now pull the timer knob out again and set it to the 4 minute mark. With the dial PUSHED IN again, turn it until it starts to agitate. It should fill for about 8 clicks again and start to wash.

Remember turning the dial around to the off mark resets the wash fill memory.


Post# 402416 , Reply# 40   12/28/2009 at 14:45 (5,224 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        

brianl's profile picture
I will definitely try that when I get home. I am very curious as to whether that will work (probably will). Was there talks somewhere about replacing that motor with another on some other thread? Obviously I don't mind it being a semi-automatic, as it makes great custom cycles, but still want to fix it obviously.

Post# 402424 , Reply# 41   12/28/2009 at 15:21 (5,224 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)        

Robert

what's that small tv right behing you?

If it's a national/panasonic, I have one exactly like that. and mine is mint-in-box.


Post# 402457 , Reply# 42   12/28/2009 at 18:28 (5,224 days old) by hooverwheelaway ()        
Thomas~

Yes.. That is a Panasonic. It's my "addition" to our Vintage TV collection.

I found it at a rummage sale about 15 years ago -- paid $10 for it. It works wonderfully -- except for the fact that TV is now broadcast in digital, and it can't pick up any channels any more.

I'd love to see yours! Or at least the box these bad boys came in. ((I'm a sucker for original boxes))
Could you post a picture of it?

~Fred


Post# 402465 , Reply# 43   12/28/2009 at 19:22 (5,224 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)        

I don't have the box anyore, but I'm going to find some pictures and post here.

Post# 402466 , Reply# 44   12/28/2009 at 19:26 (5,224 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)        

better than that

I'm going to create a new thread.


Post# 402507 , Reply# 45   12/28/2009 at 22:20 (5,224 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        
The timer trick worked

brianl's profile picture
Pushed the timer in on off, pulled it out, cycled it all the way to off again, pushed it in, pulled it out, set it to 10 min on the wash cycle, and while pushed in, turned it 8 clicks. On the 8th click, it stopped the solenoid and started to agitate. Same from the 4 min mark.

So I guess the problem lies that since the timer is not advancing, neither is the ability to shut off the solenoid. Again the solenoid assembly looks original to the unit from what I seen in the service manual, but I could be wrong. I gotta start tearing the washer down and catch up quick to Tom's point in restoration.

Tom, if I am too slow for whatever reason, and you have time to restore yours, please feel free to startup again on yours. Many thanks though to putting yours on hold for me. That means a lot to me. I will do my best to tear mine down before Wed. as I am anxious to get the bearings replaced and check out my bellows and seals. I'm sure I am going to need one of those at the very minimum.

Brian


Post# 402531 , Reply# 46   12/29/2009 at 04:42 (5,224 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)        

Don't worry Brian

All the operation up to the point I am won't take more than 1 hour. Of course, you're going to have many interruptions to find some answers to your questions.


Don't forget the camera to registrate each step, our threads may help more people someday.


Post# 402680 , Reply# 47   12/29/2009 at 19:52 (5,223 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)        

Right now Brian just removed the water bellow. It seems to be perfect.

oil bellow is damaged.

He's going to post some pictures later. keep your fingers crossed for him!


Post# 402692 , Reply# 48   12/29/2009 at 21:30 (5,223 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        
Here comes the pics!

brianl's profile picture
Pulsator nut still on, agitator off.

Post# 402694 , Reply# 49   12/29/2009 at 21:31 (5,223 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        

brianl's profile picture
Using 3/4 Craftsmen wrench to get pulsator nut off.

Post# 402695 , Reply# 50   12/29/2009 at 21:32 (5,223 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        

brianl's profile picture
Pulsator nut top

Post# 402696 , Reply# 51   12/29/2009 at 21:32 (5,223 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        

brianl's profile picture
Pulsator nut bottom.

Post# 402697 , Reply# 52   12/29/2009 at 21:33 (5,223 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        

brianl's profile picture
Pulsator off the washer.

Post# 402698 , Reply# 53   12/29/2009 at 21:34 (5,223 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        

brianl's profile picture
Pulsator bottom.

Post# 402699 , Reply# 54   12/29/2009 at 21:35 (5,223 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        

brianl's profile picture
Pulsator bottom closeup.

Post# 402700 , Reply# 55   12/29/2009 at 21:36 (5,223 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        

brianl's profile picture
Water bellow.

Post# 402701 , Reply# 56   12/29/2009 at 21:37 (5,223 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        

brianl's profile picture
Pulsator with ring on yet. Closeup of knick that I made :(

Post# 402702 , Reply# 57   12/29/2009 at 21:38 (5,223 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        

brianl's profile picture
Oil inside the water bellow.

Post# 402703 , Reply# 58   12/29/2009 at 21:39 (5,223 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        

brianl's profile picture
Ewww, Yuck!

Post# 402704 , Reply# 59   12/29/2009 at 21:40 (5,223 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        

brianl's profile picture
Another shot of the water bellow where I knicked it.

Post# 402705 , Reply# 60   12/29/2009 at 21:40 (5,223 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        

brianl's profile picture
Top of the water bellow.

Post# 402706 , Reply# 61   12/29/2009 at 21:42 (5,223 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        

brianl's profile picture
Here's the ring and another piece.

Post# 402707 , Reply# 62   12/29/2009 at 21:43 (5,223 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        

brianl's profile picture
Oil bellow mess!

Post# 402708 , Reply# 63   12/29/2009 at 21:44 (5,223 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        

brianl's profile picture
Cleaned up oil mess a bit. Cannot get nut loose and I see many tabs. Bent two down but I think I messed something up.

Post# 402712 , Reply# 64   12/29/2009 at 22:05 (5,223 days old) by gyrafoam (Wytheville, VA)        

All the tabs should be level to release the nut. When one is bent up it locks the nut in place. Carefully bend it down. Then you should be able to unscrew that nut.

Post# 402713 , Reply# 65   12/29/2009 at 22:07 (5,223 days old) by gyrafoam (Wytheville, VA)        

It would be a good idea to put a good wrapping of tape or some other padding around the threads at the top of the pulsator shaft, just to be sure the threads don't get damaged while you are working on the mechanism!

Post# 402714 , Reply# 66   12/29/2009 at 22:08 (5,223 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        

brianl's profile picture
Those 2 on the left were level and so were the rest. I bent them down with a screwdriver and hammer. They face the bottom of the tub now. I think I did something wrong.

Post# 402715 , Reply# 67   12/29/2009 at 22:10 (5,223 days old) by gyrafoam (Wytheville, VA)        

Well, they got bent too far down. Carefully bring them up to level (completely horizontal).


Post# 402716 , Reply# 68   12/29/2009 at 22:11 (5,223 days old) by gyrafoam (Wytheville, VA)        

Use a plier and slowly bend them so they don't break off.


Post# 402717 , Reply# 69   12/29/2009 at 22:12 (5,223 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        

brianl's profile picture
All the tabs look like the one at the 5 o'clock position. I bent the ones down at the 7 & 9 o' clock positions.

Post# 402718 , Reply# 70   12/29/2009 at 22:14 (5,223 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        

brianl's profile picture
Just saw your post, I will have to do that another day. I got tired after 2 hours of this lol. Is my water bellow ok, due to me nicking it?

Post# 402719 , Reply# 71   12/29/2009 at 22:15 (5,223 days old) by gyrafoam (Wytheville, VA)        

The five o' clock position is bent up to lock the nut on. It needs to be brought down to level. The 7 and 9 o'clock tabs were o.k. to begin with so you will need to bend them back to where they were at a level position.

Post# 402721 , Reply# 72   12/29/2009 at 22:19 (5,223 days old) by gyrafoam (Wytheville, VA)        
Brian

BTW check your e-mail please.

Post# 402722 , Reply# 73   12/29/2009 at 22:20 (5,223 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        

brianl's profile picture
Why do I feel I am going to need one of those too when putting this all back together?

Post# 402723 , Reply# 74   12/29/2009 at 22:21 (5,223 days old) by gyrafoam (Wytheville, VA)        

Opps. Again I am unable to get an e-mail to you at the address given.

Post# 402724 , Reply# 75   12/29/2009 at 22:22 (5,223 days old) by gyrafoam (Wytheville, VA)        

Well, don't get discouraged. Its too early in the game for that! Just you wait!

Post# 402725 , Reply# 76   12/29/2009 at 22:26 (5,223 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        
Hey Gyrafoam:

brianl's profile picture
Did you just send me one, or earlier before around 8:20?

Post# 402726 , Reply# 77   12/29/2009 at 22:28 (5,223 days old) by gyrafoam (Wytheville, VA)        

No, but I tried the other day and the same thing happend. I got a notife from the "mail admin" that it could not be delivered.

Post# 402728 , Reply# 78   12/29/2009 at 22:31 (5,223 days old) by gyrafoam (Wytheville, VA)        

I have requested our friend in Brazil to give you my e-mail address.

Post# 402729 , Reply# 79   12/29/2009 at 22:32 (5,223 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        
Strange.

brianl's profile picture
Just double-checked and my e-mail is correctly typed. I can receive attachments. I wish I knew what was wrong.

Post# 402731 , Reply# 80   12/29/2009 at 22:42 (5,223 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        
Sent you e-mail Steve

brianl's profile picture
Try replying with any information you had for me. Should work I hope.

Post# 402797 , Reply# 81   12/30/2009 at 11:48 (5,222 days old) by mickeyd (Hamburg NY)        
Sorry you're having an oil spill ;-(

mickeyd's profile picture
but your in good hands with Steve.

Sure you can advance the timer while the machine is on--another wonder and glory of vintage machines. Slowly and gently, of course. With the adjusted water pressure, the fills are right on time.

Interesting about timer increments: On the WO's they're half minute increments, which is kinda fun because it click click clicks away, zipping right through the cycle. Then in 1956 or so, Frigidaire switched to 40 second intervals between clicks, then in 1962, they went to one minute stretches. Not sure about exact dates, estimating from my own machines.

The 56 I have overfilled because it has a new I minute interval timer motor on a 40 second interval dial. Nice because you get a longer wash, 15 minutes, and rinse, 4 minutes and DRY, 7 minutes. And boy-oh-boy are they ever dry. With the adjusted water pressure, the fills are right on time, and the longer overflows compensate for the reduced pressure.

Again, good luck friend and be glad to have Steve. He's very precise, exact, and patient, and he loves to teach Frigidaire.


Post# 403627 , Reply# 82   1/3/2010 at 14:32 (5,218 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        
Cannot get that darn nut off!!

brianl's profile picture
I bent down the tab that was locking the nut from backing off, but still cannot get the nut to come loose. I have been trying to use a vise-grip up until this point, but I think I should buy the proper size wrench and cut it in half so it will fit inside the tub. Definitely larger than 3/4, but what size wrench would fit onto it? Or any other ideas for getting it off?

Thanks,
Brian


Post# 406216 , Reply# 83   1/15/2010 at 08:31 (5,207 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        
Box wrench size

brianl's profile picture
Ok, after a fun filled few weeks, back to figuring this washer out. Does anyone know what size the nut is in the picture of Post 402708? I wanted to get a box wrench that will fit and then cut it so it will fit in the tub. Vice grips are not working and I cannot get anything larger than a 3/4 wrench in there, which is too small. And at the risk of making anything worse than it is, I want to get the right tool. Also is this a reverse thread, or your standard counter-clockwise off nut?? Any strong men want to help get this nut off for me instead, that would also be greatly appreciated ;)

Thanks,
Brian


Post# 406222 , Reply# 84   1/15/2010 at 09:26 (5,206 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        

swestoyz's profile picture
Hey Brian, the Tub Nut is 1 1/2". You could get a box wrench and cut it down, typically no longer than 10". Use a leather faced mallet, and it is a standard thread, so go with the Righty-Tighty/Lefty-Loosey.

Let us know how it goes.

Ben


CLICK HERE TO GO TO swestoyz's LINK



Forum Index:       Other Forums:                      



Comes to the Rescue!

The Discuss-o-Mat has stopped, buzzer is sounding!!!
If you would like to reply to this thread please log-in...

Discuss-O-MAT Log-In



New Members
Click Here To Sign Up.



                     


automaticwasher.org home
Discuss-o-Mat Forums
Vintage Brochures, Service and Owners Manuals
Fun Vintage Washer Ephemera
See It Wash!
Video Downloads
Audio Downloads
Picture of the Day
Patent of the Day
Photos of our Collections
The Old Aberdeen Farm
Vintage Service Manuals
Vintage washer/dryer/dishwasher to sell?
Technical/service questions?
Looking for Parts?
Website related questions?
Digital Millennium Copyright Act Policy
Our Privacy Policy