Thread Number: 2627
Maytag Timer Help
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Post# 73287   7/12/2005 at 10:35 (6,856 days old) by geoffdelp (SAUK RAPIDS)        

Good Morning ... MAJOR computer problems this morning!! Good grief.

Here are the photos of my timer issue with the 101P.

Thanks for any help ...

First one shows the old timer and the two wires that connect to it. The orange wire terminates to the other side of the timer and the red wire terminates into the light harness with another red wire from the temperature selection dial.






Post# 73288 , Reply# 1   7/12/2005 at 10:37 (6,856 days old) by geoffdelp (SAUK RAPIDS)        

The next picture shows the new timer with the black wires coming out of the back.

I don't know how to connect these.

This timer has the same part number as the original, but you can see the set-up is a little different.


Post# 73289 , Reply# 2   7/12/2005 at 10:38 (6,856 days old) by geoffdelp (SAUK RAPIDS)        

This one is just for fun!!

Lights (or 1 light I should say ...)



Post# 73292 , Reply# 3   7/12/2005 at 10:46 (6,856 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

unimatic1140's profile picture
Hi Geoff, first lets do some wiring analysis. This diagram is from the original AMP, but I suspect that its very close, if not the same timer in the 101P.

One wire looks like it should go into the same connection as the lamp and water valve, the other wire appears to go into terminal 2-A.

Geoff, first of all is there a termial marked 2-A?


Post# 73302 , Reply# 4   7/12/2005 at 12:24 (6,856 days old) by christfr (st louis mo)        
mail me

christfr's profile picture
hey guy email me at rombachcc@juno.com maybe i can help i have the same machine and had sort of the same prob when i changed timers but need to take the console cover off and look at it... chris

Post# 73308 , Reply# 5   7/12/2005 at 13:11 (6,856 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

unimatic1140's profile picture
Why don't you just post the info here Chris, that way we all get to learn. By private email no one can reference this important info later on if someone else finds and works on a similar machine.

I always will give much more indepth answers (if I know the answer) to questions people have when posted here as opposed to when I am privately emailed.


Post# 73310 , Reply# 6   7/12/2005 at 13:15 (6,856 days old) by geoffdelp (SAUK RAPIDS)        

Hi guys ... I STILL have minimal computer access today. My system is scanning and I have a possible hard drive issue. I can get on my personal system tonight when I'm at home and have access to the machine.

Robert ... I think the orange wire terminates BACK to 2A. I'll check when I get home. The timer is marked; so I'll take a double look.

Chris ... thank you!!

Thanks for your patience guys; it's not a good day!! :-(





Post# 73351 , Reply# 7   7/12/2005 at 18:34 (6,856 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

unimatic1140's profile picture
Wait a minute, now that I'm home and had a good chance to review those pictures, Geoff it appears to me that the red and orange wires go into the timer motor, is that correct? If so all you have to do is cut the ends off the red and orange wires as well as the ends off of the timer motor wires, then using wire nuts and a wire stripper connect black/red and black orange together and your done.

Does that make sense?


Post# 73425 , Reply# 8   7/13/2005 at 07:46 (6,855 days old) by geoffdelp (SAUK RAPIDS)        

Robert ... that DOES make sense! I have a wire stripper, but I've never used wire nuts. Do I just go in and ask for them at the hardware store? Does it matter which black wire goes on the red and which black wire goes on the orange?

Also, I checked the timer last night. The orange wire terminates back to the other side of the timer into 2A. I have the same wiring diagram that you have posted here, but I don't understand it!! I see 2A on the diagram, but it looks like it is part of the valve control. Is that right? Why would it terminate back to itself?


Post# 73430 , Reply# 9   7/13/2005 at 08:39 (6,855 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

unimatic1140's profile picture
Hi Geoff, according to the electrical chart above, terminal 2A goes from the timer directly into the timer motor. While the wiring diagram does show the wire from 2A crossing over the valve control it does not physically connect to it. The little bump in the line at the water control means that it crosses over but does not connect at that point. It’s for the convenience of drawing the chart only.

Yes at the hardware store get a box of wire nuts for connecting 2 14 gauge wires.


Post# 73434 , Reply# 10   7/13/2005 at 09:13 (6,855 days old) by geoffdelp (SAUK RAPIDS)        

Hi Robert, OK ... that makes sense with 2A! Now when I look at the chart, I can see where the connection with 2A is with the timer and its motor. So, that makes sense that it terminates back to itself; it's where it belongs ~ right?

The "bump" also makes sense that the wire passes through the valve control but doesn't actually make connection; for drawing the schematics only.

Does it matter which black wires I use for the orange and which one I use for the red?


Post# 73435 , Reply# 11   7/13/2005 at 09:17 (6,855 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

unimatic1140's profile picture
Hi Geoff, nope it doesn't make any difference which black wire to use for either the orange or red wire, as long as a black wire is matched up with a colored wire you will be fine.

Post# 73440 , Reply# 12   7/13/2005 at 09:30 (6,855 days old) by geoffdelp (SAUK RAPIDS)        

Hi Robert, thanks for the help!! I'll give it a shot.

I kept the old drain hose and while really stiff, I can put it on the machine and give her a test drive this weekend in the driveway!

BTW, I took the wheel off the pump and was able to shoot some 3-in-1 around the screw and bushing. The pump no longer "screams", so I should be able to put it back on the machine too.

I guess I better get some Lime Away and some scrubby pads to try to clean the rust out of the tub. Do you think that will work?



Post# 73447 , Reply# 13   7/13/2005 at 10:19 (6,855 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

unimatic1140's profile picture
Geoff I would use Bon-Ami and light pressure with the scrubby pads, you might want to try Bon-Ami with a regular sponge and some elbow-grease. Do be careful with those pads as they can easily take the shine off of the porcelain.

Post# 73450 , Reply# 14   7/13/2005 at 10:32 (6,855 days old) by geoffdelp (SAUK RAPIDS)        

Thanks, Robert ... Bon-Ami and a sponge ... we'll give it a shot!!!

I also want to paint the balancing ring; it should be black. I guess black Rustoleum should do the trick.

I'll take pictures.


Post# 73458 , Reply# 15   7/13/2005 at 13:22 (6,855 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        
Bon-Ami

swestoyz's profile picture
Hey Robert -

I'm sure this has been discussed, but where to you purchase Bon-Ami locally? Thanks!

Ben


Post# 73460 , Reply# 16   7/13/2005 at 13:39 (6,855 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY)        

toggleswitch's profile picture
Ben:

Sorry Robert, I'm cutting in...

It is sold in supermakets (at least in my area) with other cleansers like Comet, Ajax, Dutch Boy (Hi Louis!) and the supermarkets label etc.

It is in a yellow canister with a shaker top and has red chicks on it (little chickens!)

If this is unavailable near you, write to me and I will send you some..

Toggleswitch9@aol.com

-Steve




Post# 73478 , Reply# 17   7/13/2005 at 16:47 (6,855 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!)        

gansky1's profile picture
Geoff, look for Super-Iron-Out while you're shopping - I've had excellent results on rust stains and it's non-abrasive as well. I found it last time at WalMart in the cleaning supplies aisle.

Keep us posted on the first load!

Greg


Post# 73482 , Reply# 18   7/13/2005 at 17:06 (6,855 days old) by geoffdelp (SAUK RAPIDS)        

Greg, I've seen that Super Iron Out before. There are a lot of products up here; some of the wells are very hard in the rural areas.

I can't wait to get it in running order and then I'll do the cosmetics and rearrange my laundry room!!!!!



Post# 73540 , Reply# 19   7/13/2005 at 23:06 (6,855 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

unimatic1140's profile picture
Ben as Steve said you can find Bon-Ami in Target or the supermarket with the Ajax/Comet cleasners.

Geoff:
I can't wait to get it in running order and then I'll do the cosmetics and rearrange my laundry room!!!!!

Then you will need 40 more vintage automatics.


Post# 73692 , Reply# 20   7/15/2005 at 07:26 (6,853 days old) by kenmore1978 ()        
oil in water pump

You might want to use a heavier oil than 3-in-1 for the pump. Those things, as well as older electric motors that have oilers for the bearings, usually specify 30 weight non-detergent automotive oil

Post# 73694 , Reply# 21   7/15/2005 at 08:09 (6,853 days old) by geoffdelp (SAUK RAPIDS)        

Jaune ... perfect ... I never thought of that!! I'd like to get some lithium grease in there. Maybe I can work it in with a toothpick. Lithium does not wash away easily. Maytag used it on most of the exposed wringer components of their conventional machines.

Robert ... excuse me? 40 more? Good heavens ... that would take up the entire lower level of my home!! That might not be too bad, however ... :-) I'm thinking my laundry room is going to be a "shrine" to Maytag. That's all the laundry appliances I have!! I have the cut-away poster for this 101P and I somehow have to figure out how to frame it so it lasts.



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