Thread Number: 26378
Need help with Whirlpool TL |
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Post# 404872   1/9/2010 at 19:11 (5,191 days old) by aaronfitzy (Pennsylvania)   |   | |
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I have a Whirlpool TL that is about 7yrs old now. Only maintenance issue thus far has been a faulty drain pump. Lately, my girlfriend has complained of staticky clothes. We use a liquid softener in the washer which goes into to top of the agitator. I sat down and watched the washer go through a whole cycle and noticed this: When the washer goes through the whole wash cycle...it then stops and is supposed to do a "neutral" drain for a few minutes then stop and spin. Well the washer just goes right into a spin first thing..so then it stops and releases the softener and goes back into a spin cycle..and sucking out the softener. I doesn't do this all the time, but would this be considered a "coupler" problem with a direct drive washer? Sorry about the long post, but a response would be greatly appreciated! Thanks, Aaron |
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Post# 404877 , Reply# 1   1/9/2010 at 19:54 (5,191 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)   |   | |
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On a Whirlpool Direct Drive washer, it will neutral drain until the motor stops. If you took your finger off the button, the spring in the transmission releases and the washer will spin once the motor restarts. As for staticy clothes, try setting the dryer for a shorter cycle or setting the dryer to a somewhat less dry setting on the automatic cycle. If your house has a humidifier, check to see it is workingproperly and is set for a high enough output. Dave |
Post# 404881 , Reply# 2   1/9/2010 at 20:17 (5,191 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Fairfield, CA)   |   | |
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one idea is that the neutral drain mechanism in the transmission isn't working correctly and looks like it's on it's way out the door. There is a kit available to rebuild the neutral drain but requires taking the tranmission apart to do so. Another idea is if the washer is located in a area where it can get verrry cold such as a outside porch or unheated garage. This allows the oil in the transmission to thicken up, thereby causing the neutral drain to not 'catch' properly. Make sure the washer is in a warm area. RCD |
Post# 404882 , Reply# 3   1/9/2010 at 20:17 (5,191 days old) by appnut (TX)   |   | |
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Aaron, I had a Kenmore Direct Drive washer that started doing this after about 6 or 7 years. It's almost like as it ages, the spring and transmission don't work properly until it has warmed up. I bet it wouldn't do this if you ran several loads in success, like mine did. I found a "remedy". Before I started to do the first load of wash, I'd put it on the final spin of the regular/heavy cycle and let it go through the spin cycle for the entire 6 or 8 minutes. then after it stopped, laod clothes, and wash as usual. DADoES and Gansky1 have discussed this with me over the phone as to what it's technically doing. And this is how I proceeded to start my wash sessions for the remainder of the 11 years the machine was in service. It now sits in the garage as I got a front loader from a member here.
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Post# 404883 , Reply# 4   1/9/2010 at 20:18 (5,191 days old) by appnut (TX)   |   | |
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Post# 404893 , Reply# 6   1/9/2010 at 20:53 (5,191 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()   |   | |
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Downey Ball!! |
Post# 404898 , Reply# 7   1/9/2010 at 21:12 (5,191 days old) by mtn1584 (USA)   |   | |
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Sorry but the downy ball will dump it's softener too during this process. |
Post# 404910 , Reply# 9   1/9/2010 at 21:57 (5,191 days old) by danmantn (Tennessee)   |   | |
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Post# 404922 , Reply# 10   1/9/2010 at 22:19 (5,191 days old) by danmantn (Tennessee)   |   | |
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My 2003 WP TOL is not neutral draining, instead, goes into a spin, stops dead (where it would normally have finished draining), and dispenses all the softener, then goes into a spin. I also noticed there was no spray spin--always thought it had one. Wow. I wonder how many years of fabric softener I've thrown away. :(
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Post# 404929 , Reply# 11   1/9/2010 at 23:40 (5,191 days old) by aaronfitzy (Pennsylvania)   |   | |
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I can't believe all the replies already! This washer does sit in a colder environment, but does have a small source of heat. Never had any problems with anything freezing up. I have done more research and it seems that a bad coupler usually will cause the washer to NOT spin, so I'm kinda clueless now. If it was the gear case like somebody mentioned above...wouldn't I have more problems other than this? The gear case surely has more than one job. I suppose we could go to dryer sheets if we had to, but we enjoy hanging our clothes outside in the summer..and we just like liquid better.
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Post# 404931 , Reply# 12   1/9/2010 at 23:42 (5,191 days old) by dadoes (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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This behavior has *nothing* to do with the drive coupler. Neutral drain trannys are, of course, *supposed* to neutral drain, and not start spin until after the 2nd pause/restart. As discussed, a cold environment which thickens the tranny oil can cause the neutral drain mechanism to not preset properly if the wash agitation period isn't long enough to warm up the tranny. The neutral drain mechanism does also wear over time, thus the repair kit being available. Either case causes spin to begin immediately upon first reverse-start of the motor instead of delaying until the 2nd reverse-start. Of my parents KA which is 15 years old, and my KA which is 18 years old (although it hasn't been used in a while), and a 10-year-old Kenmore that I refurbished ... all of them still do a proper neutral drain. With the recent cold weather, the Kenmore in my garage failed when I first tested it after reassembly (I didn't disassemble the tranny, no need) just because the agitation period wasn't long enough. The two full-cycle loads I washed in it thus far, no problem. However ... I can say that the original spin-drain models WOULD waste the softener for sure on the Gentle and Perm Press cycle. The drain period was high speed, but spin was low, so the motor paused when incrementing from drain to spin. I don't recall if there was a pause between "drain" and "spin" on the Regular cycle ... theoretically there wasn't. |
Post# 404936 , Reply# 13   1/10/2010 at 00:15 (5,191 days old) by aaronfitzy (Pennsylvania)   |   | |
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Hmmm...maybe I will try going from the "Regular" cycle of 9 minutes to the "Super Wash" being 15 minutes, that might get the tranny warmed up enough. I did notice that when this problem did occur on the first drain/spin, the "neutral" drain worked properly after the rinse cycle. To me that means it was warmed up sufficiently enough...makes sense to me. Thanks! Aaron |
Post# 404938 , Reply# 14   1/10/2010 at 00:34 (5,191 days old) by danmantn (Tennessee)   |   | |
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Post# 404943 , Reply# 15   1/10/2010 at 02:31 (5,191 days old) by strongenough78 (California)   |   | |
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A couple of the washers at the laundromat I go to do that too. That sucks that your softener gets wasted though, I always put mine in myself during the rinse cycle. Although I must say, since it seems the only spin spray you get anymore is right at the start of the last spin, all the water is drained out making the spin spray more effective!
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Post# 404974 , Reply# 16   1/10/2010 at 07:52 (5,191 days old) by appnut (TX)   |   | |
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Aaron, your machine behaving properly is just like mine did. Personally, I'd advise agianst doing any load of wash for the length of the 15 minute Super Wash setting unless absolutely soil-wise necessary. These machines, with the 90 degree arc 180 stroke per minute regular agitation, is simply too hard on clothes for repeated long agitation scenarios like that. My suggestion above of doing the 4 minute regular cycle last spin before putting clothes in for the first load is a far easier suggestion on your laundry and also alleviates the option for dryer sheets, which many of us here don't recomment because that causes a waxy buildup in your dryer as well as, most importantly, a waxy coating on the dryer exhaust system, which causes lint to adhere and build up, becoming a fire hazzard.
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Post# 404994 , Reply# 17   1/10/2010 at 08:39 (5,191 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)   |   | |
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I'm afraid that extending the wash time to accommodate the failing transmission is only prolonging the inevitable. I suggest either using a minute minder timer to remind you to go back and add the softener manually or switch to a high quality dryer sheet. Also, start saving up for a new washing machine. My Aunt's Kenmore began doing the same thing after six years and died before it saw its 8th birthday. Before I could guide her, she ran out and bought a Kitchenaid TL thinking that she wont have that problem again. Shocked when I told her essentially the KA is the same machine under a different skin. Malcolm |
Post# 405369 , Reply# 19   1/11/2010 at 13:52 (5,190 days old) by aaronfitzy (Pennsylvania)   |   | |
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Post# 405418 , Reply# 20   1/11/2010 at 16:51 (5,190 days old) by mtn1584 (USA)   |   | |
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Don't be surprised Aaron if it happens again, I wish you luck, but like I said every WP/Kenmore I've owned did the same thing. |
Post# 405423 , Reply# 21   1/11/2010 at 17:24 (5,189 days old) by aaronfitzy (Pennsylvania)   |   | |
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Post# 405433 , Reply# 22   1/11/2010 at 17:54 (5,189 days old) by dadoes (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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Post# 405468 , Reply# 23   1/11/2010 at 19:44 (5,189 days old) by lotsosudz (Sacramento, CA)   |   | |
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My Suggestion is to dump it . Unless you really like direct drive machines. There are destined to be a Kia Rio, if you ask me. There are built to fail. I bought a 72 Lady Kenmore Recently and are almost ready to fix her up. I own a GE Profile direct drive, with the cruel action agitator,and although it functions fine, I would never buy another dd machine again. Lousy rollover! Give me a Vari-flex, a Roto Swirl, or an old Maytag. Ok,enough preaching!LOL
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Post# 405568 , Reply# 24   1/12/2010 at 07:11 (5,189 days old) by aaronfitzy (Pennsylvania)   |   | |
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Post# 405652 , Reply# 26   1/12/2010 at 17:34 (5,188 days old) by aaronfitzy (Pennsylvania)   |   | |
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