Need a dryer vent solution...


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Thread Number: 26555
Need a dryer vent solution...

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Post# 407520 1/19/2010 at 20:51 (5,204 days old) by danmantn (Tennessee)
Checkrate/Likes Currently I am using a dryer vent "periscope" to accomodate the very close 2 inch clearance behind the Speed Queen dryer. While this is working from a functionality standpoint, the vent is "leaking" lint...coming out of the seams (because the design allows it to slide). Anyway...are there any other solutions? I have at max 2.1 inch clearance behind the dryer (vent connection is on the left side). If the periscope is the only solution, then I've considered taping it up with duct tape...or is there a better solution - will duct tape stand that kind of heat? Suggestions please! Thanks!

Post# 407522 , Reply# 1 1/19/2010 at 20:54 (5,204 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)
Checkrate/Likes *Tape.* Get tape that can withstand the heat and humidity. Maybe foil tape? Dave

Post# 407529 , Reply# 2 1/19/2010 at 21:11 (5,204 days old) by danmantn (Tennessee)
Checkrate/Likes *Interior Dryer Vents...* While we're on the subject of vents...would anyone recommend this for a basement? Or something similar...? CLICK HERE TO GO TO danmantn's LINK

Post# 407582 , Reply# 3 1/20/2010 at 00:04 (5,204 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)
Checkrate/Likes I think that "heat keeper" vent would be OK for a basement, as long as the dryer uses electric heat and not gas. Regarding the "periscope" vent, I have one of those and so far have not noticed any leaking. I presume you have the "male" portion of the periscope attached to the dryer. Foil tape is what I'd recommend, not duct tape.

Post# 407602 , Reply# 4 1/20/2010 at 06:21 (5,203 days old) by toggleswitch2 ()
Checkrate/Likes TAPE IT! I am familiar with a heat-keeper similar to the one shown. It WILL leak a bit of heat into the house even whem selected to vent out. The model I'm familiar with also has a very slight and not-too-annoying whistle when set to vent out. I used a 6 foot (2 meter) rigid duct and an elbow and mounted the heat-keeper on that. This way the dryer is not sucking back in its own effluent (warm, moist air). There is also a reutrn-air intake in the laundry room. By turning on the central heating system's fan, the heat and moisture is distributed evenly throughout the house.

Post# 407762 , Reply# 5 1/20/2010 at 16:41 (5,203 days old) by laundromat (Hilo, Hawaii)
Checkrate/Likes DO not use the "heat keeper" unless you enjoy mold and mildew builing up in your home.Dryers should only be vented in to either the great outdoors or into an open garage.The vent should travel no more than 2 ft. upward and no more than 6ft.straight across or horizontaly.Otherwise,the drying time increases,condensation occurs and the water drains back into the dryer and steam will become an issue in the interior dryer drum.

Post# 407842 , Reply# 6 1/20/2010 at 20:43 (5,203 days old) by stevet (West Melbourne, FL)
Checkrate/Likes *The Dryer Box!* This device can solve a myriad of vent problems for nearly every homeowner. They are now installed in all new construction here in Palm Coast and allow you to have a nice transition from the dryer exhaust to the outside vent. Now I have to tell you that most newer homes here have the exhaust hood on the roof which is automatically a problematic installation.At least with the Dryer Box, you will eliminate at least one if not two elbows right at the dryer! The installers and builders think nothing of going up to the attic and using multiple elbows as well as horizontal runs which negate the power of the dryer's exhaust fan. But that is another story! These Dryer boxes will fit between the studs of your wall and the duct to the roof or wherever your vent coes would terminate at the top of the box so you can attach the transition piping and push the dryer back without crushing the pipe. Check the website and see if it is a solution for your problem as stated above! CLICK HERE TO GO TO stevet's LINK

Post# 407849 , Reply# 7 1/20/2010 at 21:06 (5,203 days old) by toggleswitch2 ()
Checkrate/Likes Hi Chuck, WAVES :-) Your points are vaild, but may not be applicable in all circumstances, IMHO. 1- Venting a dryer into a garge in my area is not smart. Too cold to hold (all that) moisture in suspension. 2 ~The vent should travel no more than 2 ft. upward and no more than 6ft. straight across, or horizontaly. Actually, in my area dryers are in basements and the vent must travel up 7 feet to get out. In a heated basement there is less condensation in the pipes than in a cold one. With a good indoor hygrometer (humidity measurer) one can best determine if a load's heat amd moisture should be retained or ejected. Generally below 40% relative humidity is condiered to be safe and not conducive to mold's growth in a home. I have found that 30% is ideal in the home (that I am familiar with) that has the heat-saver. Best regards!

Post# 407972 , Reply# 8 1/21/2010 at 08:03 (5,202 days old) by iheartmaytag (Wichita, Kansas)
Checkrate/Likes *Actually, in my area dryers are in basements and the vent mu* Mine too. My dryer is in the basement, the only way to vent it is up.

Post# 407978 , Reply# 9 1/21/2010 at 08:52 (5,202 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)
Checkrate/Likes *One of these?*

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