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Post# 407778   1/20/2010 at 17:49 (5,207 days old) by joelippard (Hickory)        

joelippard's profile picture
As to what I am up to this evening. My hands are sore, tired one finger is cut, the corners of both thumbs are sore and the sides of my arms near the elbow both are tender to the touch. I've wrestled it yesterday evening and today also. I've stretched, and stretched, and almost got it but the little black devil is still winning.

So tell me Washer lovers, what am I up to? Keep your answers clean!





Post# 407780 , Reply# 1   1/20/2010 at 17:51 (5,207 days old) by rickr (.)        

rickr's profile picture
With all that struggle, it has to be a Frigidaire....

Post# 407783 , Reply# 2   1/20/2010 at 17:58 (5,207 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)        
Guess....

mrb627's profile picture
Perhaps you are trying to shift an agitator?

Malcolm


Post# 407786 , Reply# 3   1/20/2010 at 18:00 (5,207 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

goatfarmer's profile picture
Professional wrestling?

Post# 407789 , Reply# 4   1/20/2010 at 18:07 (5,207 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains)        
Oil bellows on a thumper?

panthera's profile picture
Or drum belt on a Whirlpool compact dryer. Either is a nightmare.

Post# 407808 , Reply# 5   1/20/2010 at 18:42 (5,207 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Fairfield, CA)        

redcarpetdrew's profile picture
I have those same injuries from trying to pull a black bakelite agitator in a 60's Maytag...

Oh, and the tip of my foot hurts from kicking the difficult sob...

RCD


Post# 407821 , Reply# 6   1/20/2010 at 19:31 (5,207 days old) by gyrafoam (Wytheville, VA)        

Lubricate the flange with a bit of diswashing liquid and then using your finger-tips with as even pressure as you can---kind of force the end to pop over the flange all the way around. When you least expect it----it will suddenly work.

Post# 407823 , Reply# 7   1/20/2010 at 19:36 (5,207 days old) by joelippard (Hickory)        
Ha Ha,

joelippard's profile picture
You boys got me! I'm putting a new water bellows on my Rollermatic Rapidry. The new one I installed when I restored it back in the fall must have been defective as it developed a one inch slit in the side and there has been nothing in the machine that could have torn it, or even reached that far up near the top. I've put it on the stretch over night and I'll see what I can do tomorrow, right now I'm in pain. I sure love my Frigidaire's but I hate working on them.

Post# 407891 , Reply# 8   1/20/2010 at 23:19 (5,207 days old) by mickeyd (Hamburg NY)        
Been there, Buddy

mickeyd's profile picture
Put some Dawn, etc. arouund the rim of the hub, more Dawn around the bottom of the bellows, and soak the bellows in hot water before the soaping. Also, the ring goes on easier if you nestle it in among the middle ribs.

Sorry for your pain.


Post# 407999 , Reply# 9   1/21/2010 at 10:53 (5,207 days old) by joelippard (Hickory)        
Tried it just now

joelippard's profile picture
While I'm home for lunch. Not a thing, the soap made an even worse proposition, back on the bottle it goes until about 8pm then I'll try again...

I have to wonder what they did back in the day working out in the field, it seems to me a tools could have been made to do this, or an easier to service design...


Post# 408004 , Reply# 10   1/21/2010 at 11:11 (5,207 days old) by rickr (.)        

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I used KY on the water bellows of my 66 Custom Imperial. DIdn't have any trouble with the inner bellows though.


It was STILL a pita though!!


Post# 408028 , Reply# 11   1/21/2010 at 12:11 (5,206 days old) by mickeyd (Hamburg NY)        
Beautiful Rick

mickeyd's profile picture
Do any of you Rollermatic Dudes know the story of the changeover from small to large jetports--the when and the why?

Joel, rinse the soap off the bellows and soak it in hot water. I really feel for you; it took me days to get mine on. But it will happen. On the last try, you may be in the zone or the alpha wave state--daydreaming--and your hands will figure it out by themselves after all these practice attempts, and snap, you're on. It's gonna happen, Man! It did for me and I'm pitiful and tragic ;'D

Everyone here seems to agree that the oil bellows is easy and the water, a pita, and you have to wonder, as you said, how the repairmen of the day handled it. We know they had the specialty wrenches, but that doesn't put the bellows on.

Does anyone have a trick that might help Joel and the rest of us when we're in that horrible bellows boat?


Post# 408107 , Reply# 12   1/21/2010 at 15:33 (5,206 days old) by joelippard (Hickory)        
SUCCESS!

joelippard's profile picture
Phew, Finally.... I won! Let the Jet Action Washing and Rapidry Spinning commence again!

Post# 408156 , Reply# 13   1/21/2010 at 18:38 (5,206 days old) by mickeyd (Hamburg NY)        
YAY YAY YAY

mickeyd's profile picture
How did it happen? Just.....poof !!!!! it's on?

Post# 408164 , Reply# 14   1/21/2010 at 18:51 (5,206 days old) by joelippard (Hickory)        
Well,

joelippard's profile picture
I let it continue to stretch over the soap dispenser bottle until I got home from work. I got one side of it started, just like always, and kept working it around the tub lip very gingerly while attempting to hold in place what was already on and got to where just one little part was not on, I ran my fingers around and it just kind of popped on. You better believe I got that snap ring down the ribs and around that thing as fast as I could. Did two loads without issue, and dried both in a little over hour in the flowing heat.

I've made myself a set of instructions on how it's best (at least for me) to handle this if I have to do it again in the future. I hope I don't see underside of any of those agitators for many, many years. Just as a bit of information what wound up working was running the bellows under very hot 160 degree water, and leaving it stretched over the soap bottle for a total of 48 hours. I really have to wonder if some of the old timers didn't keep some "on the stretch" all the time. I'd love to talk with someone who repaired these things for a living.

Now I'm relaxing after a nice shower, and I've got two Aleve's in me, boy my hands hurt...


Post# 408213 , Reply# 15   1/21/2010 at 21:00 (5,206 days old) by joelippard (Hickory)        
Hey Michael

joelippard's profile picture
I've heard you mention just over in the post with the GE portable about a ripped bellows with a large load. I'm just curious, how does this happen? Has anyone else here had this happen? I'm just wondering if I should be more cautious and I'm trying to understand mechanically how it could happen.

Post# 408214 , Reply# 16   1/21/2010 at 21:01 (5,206 days old) by joelippard (Hickory)        
Rick

joelippard's profile picture
Where did you get that black bottom cone? I've never seen one of those before on a Jet Action, it looks great man!

Post# 408366 , Reply# 17   1/22/2010 at 11:46 (5,205 days old) by mickeyd (Hamburg NY)        
Hi Joel

mickeyd's profile picture
Jon Le Fevre (combo) emailed me last night, saying that heavy loads can't really wreck a bellows. He said I'd be shocked at the size of his loads, but he also told me on the phone a while back that he rarely does laundry. I laughed and thought he was kidding, but he was serious--weeks and weeks between washdays, he said.

Back in the day, we had only one bellows break, and that was a tear caused by a nail from my Dad's overall pocket.

My bellows ripped while I was washing a king size quilt. Although it one of those old silky ones, it was still too heavy for the Unimatic. You've seen my Uni in the kitchen, I hope. Well, I pulled one of the stools over to the machine and stood on in. Then I used alternating feet and legs to work the quilt down.

Unbelievably the pulsator took it down finally with the help of my feet, but suddenly the water level in the tub started to fall dramatically, water gushing out of the hose, and I knew immediately what I had done. After spinning and removing the agitator, the bellows revealed an angry slit along the outer edge of the middle ridge. By the way, at no point was I standing in the washer, just one foot at a time, pressing firmly on the air pockets in the silky quilt.

Before that incident, I had been washing really gigantic loads, 4 or 5 a week for months, includiing the winter with heavy sweats and hoodies, etc., just because it was so much fun to see how much stuff that little tub could pack. Have a pic of a load somewhere, but it's not coming up.

I will defer to Jon until I talk to him, but to me it's basic physics. The heavier the load and the more frequently you wash heavy loads, the greater the stress on the bellows which bears the weight of the wash. I could be totally wrong, of course. Will find out over the weekend and let you know on Monday.


Post# 408383 , Reply# 18   1/22/2010 at 12:41 (5,205 days old) by rickr (.)        

rickr's profile picture
Thanks Joe! That is a replacement pulastor that I found NIB on ebay. I melted the original with torch trying to take it apart. The pulsator is not black, but a very dark brown. Someone here told me it was for a 1-18 machine, but it seems that it works just fine on my Rapid-dry.

Right now I am working on a 1960 Custom Imperial. I got it from Gansky as an empty shell, and am putting back together as a Rollermatic instead of a "Multi-tragic" Am having some parts machined to make it all work. Will try and post some photos of the "shell" at some point this weekend. It's a beautiful machine, otherwise I would not have bothered with it.


Post# 408392 , Reply# 19   1/22/2010 at 13:02 (5,205 days old) by rollermatic (cincinnati)        
now i know what i

rollermatic's profile picture
have to look forward to! i plan on resuming the rebuild on my rollermatics shortly here, when the weather warms up a bit.

glad you got your's on finally. i will keep in mind the hot water soaking and the ky jelly.


Post# 408536 , Reply# 20   1/22/2010 at 19:44 (5,205 days old) by joelippard (Hickory)        
Thought I'd share my notes to myself for the project...

joelippard's profile picture
Frigidaire Water Bellows Instructions.

Run the bellows under very hot water and stretch it over the round soap dispenser bottle up to the last set of green ribs (near the top), to where it turns white and leave it for 48 hours.
When reassembling the Jet Cone’s use a cut piece of cork gasket as a washer under the nut on the lower cone and under the top agitator nut to help prevent rust seizure. Use the channel lock pliers to tighten the steel nut on the lower jet cone, tighten it and rock it around a bit, then tighten it some more. Repeat this for the top cones. Be sure you hold those cones when you’re tightening the nuts up so as to not stress against the keyway, or cause a twist in the bellows.
Tools: 19mm socket w/ 3/8’s drive and extension, Channel Locks, Bellows Pliers, Dish Soap, Rags.


Post# 408540 , Reply# 21   1/22/2010 at 19:57 (5,205 days old) by joelippard (Hickory)        
I've also noticed

joelippard's profile picture
The varied differences in my two Rollermatics. The '65 WCDA Turquoise has a longer overflow rinse in the wash cycle, and when it kicks into spin it has a very positive engagement on the clutch and gets up to speed, very fast, matter of fact it pulls against the motor torque in the same way a Unimatic, or MultiMatic would. Now on the other hand the 67' WCDAP Rapidry torques completely against the clutch. Very interesting. Can you all enlighten me as to the variances within the same mechanism?

Post# 408543 , Reply# 22   1/22/2010 at 20:35 (5,205 days old) by rollermatic (cincinnati)        
my wcda-65

rollermatic's profile picture
that i bought from matt in mich. doesn't have a clutch action. the motor kicks on for spin and it takes about 20 seconds for the tub to get up to max spin speed and the starting windings stay on till then. it has a capacitor start on it. i remember when melvin (supreme whirlpool) watched it in action last nov. he could not believe it took that long for the start windings to kick out. you can hear and feel the start windings when they kick out at full tub speed.

my 67 and 68 models have no rapidry and are not at the test point yet.

the 65 coppertone i got in tenn. won't even run at all! have not had time to look at it but i do know it also has the same capacitor start motor so i assume it will behave just like my other wcda-65 that i use frequently.

the custom imperial 65 model is together enough to test it but i don't have the inner tub in yet. it spins in all 4 spin speeds but i won't know for a few weeks how it revs up. it is a capacitor start though. the 6th and last one is a parts machine only. it is rapidry and has no capacitor start but the inner tub is eaten up with rust well as most of the outer tub.

when i get em running i will post here.


Post# 408560 , Reply# 23   1/22/2010 at 21:58 (5,205 days old) by joelippard (Hickory)        
Pete

joelippard's profile picture
That sounds just like mine, it has the big capacitor attached to the inside of the rear access panel, and you can hear it click those windings in. Mine goes into slow spin first, and then ramps up after a few minutes on the low speed. I guess there really isn't a clutch, but more of a solid roller where the clutch usually goes.

Post# 408561 , Reply# 24   1/22/2010 at 22:21 (5,205 days old) by rickr (.)        

rickr's profile picture
Hi Joe, the Rapid-dry models have an "impact clutch" it has a limited movement engagement type drive to it. The non Rapid-dry models have regular type clutch with clutch plates in them. I have a few NIB "Sure Spin" type clutches, but none of the "impact clutches for the Rapid-dry models.


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