Thread Number: 2698
47 Bendix Washer |
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Post# 74043 , Reply# 2   7/17/2005 at 21:54 (6,829 days old) by bendixman (Racine)   |   | |
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Austin, Thanks for the reply. What kind of water valve did you replace it with, it might be worth a try. So far everything works so just putting in a new water valve shouldn't create any problem (I hope). Bruce |
Post# 74089 , Reply# 3   7/18/2005 at 08:49 (6,828 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)   |   | |
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Bruce you can replace the water valve with any standard washing machine water valve. You will have to convert the electrical wire leads in your Bendix from the old style bullet connectors to more modern quick disconnect flat blades, but that is easy. The original Bendix design has a diverter on the water valve to shoot a small stream of the incoming wash/rinse water down into the water-level float chamber. You won’t be able to use this with a new water valve, so just be sure to clean the chamber ever few years. With modern detergents it shouldn't get very gummed up anyway, that was designed before detergents were invented and soap was used. |
Post# 74297 , Reply# 5   7/20/2005 at 06:56 (6,826 days old) by Jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)   |   | |
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Post# 74400 , Reply# 6   7/21/2005 at 07:59 (6,825 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY)   |   | |
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Post# 74472 , Reply# 8   7/21/2005 at 20:05 (6,825 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY)   |   | |
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Post# 74611 , Reply# 11   7/22/2005 at 13:45 (6,824 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)   |   | |
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Hi Bruce, what do you mean by "Bendix 3 wire switch"? There are four wires that go onto the Bendix, two to the hot solenoid and two to the warm solenoid. A modern valve will most certainly work with the Bendix I used one in my 1947 Bendix. If it fills too fast and backs up into the water flume you could simply slow the water flow down. Be careful of advice you get from appliance parts stores they are trained from the beginning that "old" is bad. The only difference with using a modern water valve will be the "warm" setting will provide cold water. You could replace the solenoid on the original water valve, but you will have to find one first and that could take a while. They haven't made those large style water valve solenoids since the mid 50's. |
Post# 74645 , Reply# 13   7/22/2005 at 16:04 (6,824 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)   |   | |
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Post# 74650 , Reply# 14   7/22/2005 at 16:18 (6,824 days old) by bendixman (Racine)   |   | |
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Robert, Will do! Thanks Bruce |
Post# 74787 , Reply# 16   7/23/2005 at 11:01 (6,823 days old) by bendixman (Racine)   |   | |
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Here is another picture, i'm not sure how to post all of them at once, so i'm sending a few in different postings. |
Post# 74789 , Reply# 17   7/23/2005 at 11:02 (6,823 days old) by bendixman (Racine)   |   | |
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Another picture. |
Post# 74790 , Reply# 18   7/23/2005 at 11:03 (6,823 days old) by bendixman (Racine)   |   | |
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Another picture. |
Post# 74792 , Reply# 19   7/23/2005 at 11:04 (6,823 days old) by bendixman (Racine)   |   | |
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Another picture. Toggleswitch wanted to see the flow tube here are 2 pictures of it. |
Post# 74794 , Reply# 20   7/23/2005 at 11:05 (6,823 days old) by bendixman (Racine)   |   | |
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Final Picture. Hope you can help. |
Post# 74795 , Reply# 21   7/23/2005 at 11:06 (6,823 days old) by bendixman (Racine)   |   | |
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Just 1 more. |
Post# 74830 , Reply# 22   7/23/2005 at 18:14 (6,823 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)   |   | |
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Bruce what are the colors of the three water solenoid wires, I see a green wire, I see a tan wire but your picture doesn't show what the third wire color is. If I know the color of that I can figure out how to convert it to a four wire. It should be easy. Can you post a picture of just like you did in your first picture of the solenoid package but with all three wires properly installed?
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Post# 74832 , Reply# 24   7/23/2005 at 19:05 (6,823 days old) by bendixman (Racine)   |   | |
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2nd picture |
Post# 74833 , Reply# 25   7/23/2005 at 19:06 (6,823 days old) by bendixman (Racine)   |   | |
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3rd picture |
Post# 74834 , Reply# 26   7/23/2005 at 19:08 (6,823 days old) by bendixman (Racine)   |   | |
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Robert, sorry about the last picture not coming out clear the lighting is bad this is the green wire from the bottom of the solinoid that goes to the flow tube switch. |
Post# 74850 , Reply# 27   7/23/2005 at 21:19 (6,823 days old) by peteski50 (New York)   |   | |
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Post# 74857 , Reply# 28   7/23/2005 at 23:10 (6,823 days old) by bpetersxx (laf in on the banks of the Wabash River)   |   | |
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Post# 74869 , Reply# 29   7/23/2005 at 23:47 (6,823 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)   |   | |
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OK that's better, now I know. The plane Green wire is for the warm solenoid and the yellow wire is for the hot solenoid. The Green Wire with the Yellow Tracer (stripes) is the neutral return wire. Here is how to wire in the new valve... The Green wire goes onto the one of the prongs of the cold water solenoid of the new valve. The Yellow wire goes onto the one of the prongs of the hot water solenoid of the new valve. You have to cut the Green/Yellow striped wire and create a Y connection and connect one G/Y wire to the hot solenoid and one G/Y wire to the cold solenoid. Your biggest challenge in this whole thing is going to be mouting the new valve in the spot where the old valve went. I seem to remember this being a bit of a pain when I did it my '47 Bendix, but it can be done. |
Post# 74870 , Reply# 30   7/23/2005 at 23:49 (6,823 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY)   |   | |
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Post# 74906 , Reply# 31   7/24/2005 at 08:50 (6,822 days old) by bendixman (Racine)   |   | |
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Thanks Robert. I will now buy the switch and do the rewire of the valve hopefully I won't electricute myself and my Bendix will be happy and working again. I will keep you posted of the events. |
Post# 75370 , Reply# 33   7/27/2005 at 13:15 (6,819 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY)   |   | |
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On a solenoid valce as this, the hot and neutral valves can go to either terminal, as long as each valve gets one of each. If I read Rober't instructions correctly here it is re-phrased: Take the wire that is ONE color and stick it, as directed, to the proper temperature valve. Take the other ONE color wire and stick it on the other temperature valve. The wire that is both colors needs to go to the two remainig terminals(one on each temperature valve). Here you will need to make a "jumper" or splice the wire into two needed connections. If the temps are wrong later,(which they should not be), simply reverse the incoming water hoses, if that is easier than electrical work for you. Sorry, I hope I haven't confused you!!! I am confident you will do this to perfection! |
Post# 75371 , Reply# 34   7/27/2005 at 13:15 (6,819 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)   |   | |
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Hi Bruce the valve you purchased should work perfectly for a replacement. The water flow might little bit too fast, if it causes a leak at the vacuum breaker where the fill stream goes into the outer tub, you can turn the pressure down at the faucets since its not a timed fill washer. Okay left to right: Lets make the left the cold valve and the right the hot valve. #1 Green Wire #2 Green/Yellow on of the Y-connection wires #3 Yellow Wire #4 Green/Yellow the other wire on the Y-connection. Be sure to hook the cold water hose to the left valve and vice-versa. Be advised that with this modern valve you are going to have either or hot or cold wash (hot dial selects hot and warm dial selects cold) and a cold rinse. |
Post# 75372 , Reply# 35   7/27/2005 at 13:18 (6,819 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY)   |   | |
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