Thread Number: 2698
47 Bendix Washer
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Post# 74029   7/17/2005 at 20:10 (6,829 days old) by bendixman (Racine)        

I'm wondering if someone can give me some direction on my 47 Bendix washer. My water solinoid has gone to a better place and woes not work anymore. I have the original valve from the Dole Valve company. Is there another universal water valve that I can use to replace it or is there a place that I can send it to to be repaired. I do realize that this machine is 58 years old but other than the water valve it works great and has given me hours of pleasure watching it do a good job. Any help you can give me would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.





Post# 74036 , Reply# 1   7/17/2005 at 20:59 (6,829 days old) by westytoploader ()        

I installed a new water valve on my '47, and changed the connectors. The problem is that only the "HOT" side is working on wash, and the machine won't fill on the Soak or Rinse cycles. The valve is new, so there has to be a break in the wiring somewhere (the spin solenoid won't energize either and worked fine before). I've been messing around with my other machines, and I don't have a place to bolt the Bendix down so it's not high on my priority list. But when I'm all done with the machines and shed (if I ever do get done...OY) I'll re-wire the whole thing and see what happens.

--Austin


Post# 74043 , Reply# 2   7/17/2005 at 21:54 (6,829 days old) by bendixman (Racine)        
47 Bendix

Austin,
Thanks for the reply. What kind of water valve did you replace it with, it might be worth a try. So far everything works so just putting in a new water valve shouldn't create any problem (I hope).

Bruce


Post# 74089 , Reply# 3   7/18/2005 at 08:49 (6,828 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

unimatic1140's profile picture
Bruce you can replace the water valve with any standard washing machine water valve. You will have to convert the electrical wire leads in your Bendix from the old style bullet connectors to more modern quick disconnect flat blades, but that is easy.

The original Bendix design has a diverter on the water valve to shoot a small stream of the incoming wash/rinse water down into the water-level float chamber. You won’t be able to use this with a new water valve, so just be sure to clean the chamber ever few years. With modern detergents it shouldn't get very gummed up anyway, that was designed before detergents were invented and soap was used.


Post# 74091 , Reply# 4   7/18/2005 at 09:11 (6,828 days old) by bendixman (Racine)        
47 Bendix Washer

Robert,
Thank you for the help. I was going to ask about the diverter connector which fills the float tube, but I guess that I won't be needing this. As for converting the bullet connectors to the flat kind this is no problem as I have rewired the machine using the flat connectors. Again thanks!


Post# 74297 , Reply# 5   7/20/2005 at 06:56 (6,826 days old) by Jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)        
Oh I see now

jetcone's profile picture
Robert, your saying that the back flow from the tub fill will also fill the diverter chamber and activate the float switch from the bottom up so BEndixman won't have an overflowing washer.

Hmm I wonder why Bendix had that diverter in the first place. soap scum removal??


Post# 74400 , Reply# 6   7/21/2005 at 07:59 (6,825 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY)        
Clueless

toggleswitch's profile picture
No idea about the diverter chamber...


May I request pics and more info? Tks.


Post# 74408 , Reply# 7   7/21/2005 at 08:44 (6,825 days old) by bendixman (Racine)        
47 Bendix

I will take some pics this weekend and upload them to the site. Basically what it is,the water valve has an offshoot where a copper tube is screwed into it. This offshoot delivers water to a tube on the back of the machine that fills with water as the tub fills too, and it activates an electric float switch which has a rod attached to the switch at the top of the tube which when it gets to a certain height it shuts the water off. The tube also feeds water into it from the wash tub. The best thing I can compare it to is the float in the toilet tank that as the water rises it shuts off when it reaches its level. I don't know the reason that Bendix did it this way but remember my machine is 58 years old, so for that time I guess it was a pretty modern feature..

Post# 74472 , Reply# 8   7/21/2005 at 20:05 (6,825 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY)        

toggleswitch's profile picture
TKS!

An eye opener.


Post# 74608 , Reply# 9   7/22/2005 at 13:35 (6,824 days old) by bendixman (Racine)        
47 Bendix

Robert,
I went to my local appliance repair store today to pick up a a standard washing machine valve to replace my old one. The guy behind the counter said that the new valves won't work it will only make the machine flood. Needless to say I dind't buy it as I don't want a flood. Any suggestions as to what brand of valve I can buy. The guy showed me a GE water valve with 4 flat prongs but said it couldn't be converted to the Bendix 3 wire switch. I did contact a place in Pennsylvania called AP Wagner parts and they said that they don't stock parts this old. Really want's wrong with this part is the electric solinoid on top is totally shot. What this really needs is a new electric solinoid. Any suggestions on this??? Any help would be Much appreciated.
Bruce

Long Island where I live doesn't have any place old enough to remember a Bendix washer.


Post# 74610 , Reply# 10   7/22/2005 at 13:42 (6,824 days old) by westytoploader ()        

Unless your repairman is over 60 years old, chances are he isn't familiar with a Bendix machine. His assumption about the new valve flooding the machine isn't true. Even though only the "Hot" solenoid works on my machine, the float switch still shuts off the water when the proper level is reached.

Converting the 3-wire to 4-wire does pose a problem. Even though the wires separate when you remove the bullet connector, it is unknown by me where the 3rd & 4th wires are supposed to go on the new valve. I'll find out sooner or later when I resume work on mine...


Post# 74611 , Reply# 11   7/22/2005 at 13:45 (6,824 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

unimatic1140's profile picture
Hi Bruce, what do you mean by "Bendix 3 wire switch"? There are four wires that go onto the Bendix, two to the hot solenoid and two to the warm solenoid. A modern valve will most certainly work with the Bendix I used one in my 1947 Bendix. If it fills too fast and backs up into the water flume you could simply slow the water flow down. Be careful of advice you get from appliance parts stores they are trained from the beginning that "old" is bad.

The only difference with using a modern water valve will be the "warm" setting will provide cold water. You could replace the solenoid on the original water valve, but you will have to find one first and that could take a while. They haven't made those large style water valve solenoids since the mid 50's.


Post# 74638 , Reply# 12   7/22/2005 at 15:09 (6,824 days old) by bendixman (Racine)        
47 Bendix

Robert,
There are 3 slots on the back of the solinoid not 4. I will try and take a picture of it and post it later. Yes I know that the old solinoid is extremely rare, as I visited 4 electrical supply houses today and their eyes bugged out when they saw the solinoid. There are 2 wires on the top and one in the middle on the bottom. What brand of new water valve do you reccommend.
Bruce


Post# 74645 , Reply# 13   7/22/2005 at 16:04 (6,824 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

unimatic1140's profile picture
Take a picture of the entire valve Bruce, lets go from there.

Post# 74650 , Reply# 14   7/22/2005 at 16:18 (6,824 days old) by bendixman (Racine)        
47 Bendix

Robert, Will do!
Thanks Bruce


Post# 74786 , Reply# 15   7/23/2005 at 10:59 (6,823 days old) by bendixman (Racine)        
47 Bendix

Robert,
Here are a few pictures of the water valve and solinoid of my Bendix. As you can see there are 3 wires on the back of the solinoid that need to ne converted in some way that I don't know how to do. I have been looking for a new solinoid but as you know it like finding the "Needle in the Haystack". Any help would be greatly apprediated.
Bruce


Post# 74787 , Reply# 16   7/23/2005 at 11:01 (6,823 days old) by bendixman (Racine)        
47 Bendix

Here is another picture, i'm not sure how to post all of them at once, so i'm sending a few in different postings.

Post# 74789 , Reply# 17   7/23/2005 at 11:02 (6,823 days old) by bendixman (Racine)        
47 Bendix

Another picture.

Post# 74790 , Reply# 18   7/23/2005 at 11:03 (6,823 days old) by bendixman (Racine)        
47 Bendix

Another picture.

Post# 74792 , Reply# 19   7/23/2005 at 11:04 (6,823 days old) by bendixman (Racine)        
47 Bendix

Another picture. Toggleswitch wanted to see the flow tube here are 2 pictures of it.

Post# 74794 , Reply# 20   7/23/2005 at 11:05 (6,823 days old) by bendixman (Racine)        
47 Bendix

Final Picture. Hope you can help.

Post# 74795 , Reply# 21   7/23/2005 at 11:06 (6,823 days old) by bendixman (Racine)        
47 Bendix

Just 1 more.

Post# 74830 , Reply# 22   7/23/2005 at 18:14 (6,823 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

unimatic1140's profile picture
Bruce what are the colors of the three water solenoid wires, I see a green wire, I see a tan wire but your picture doesn't show what the third wire color is. If I know the color of that I can figure out how to convert it to a four wire. It should be easy. Can you post a picture of just like you did in your first picture of the solenoid package but with all three wires properly installed?

Post# 74831 , Reply# 23   7/23/2005 at 19:04 (6,823 days old) by bendixman (Racine)        
47 Bendix

Robert, it's another green & yellow wire and it runs from the tube float switch then it y's off with a connector and then it goes to the switch that is on top of the transmission. Here are 2 pictures that I took. Let me know if you need more.

Post# 74832 , Reply# 24   7/23/2005 at 19:05 (6,823 days old) by bendixman (Racine)        
47 Bendix

2nd picture

Post# 74833 , Reply# 25   7/23/2005 at 19:06 (6,823 days old) by bendixman (Racine)        
47 Bendix

3rd picture

Post# 74834 , Reply# 26   7/23/2005 at 19:08 (6,823 days old) by bendixman (Racine)        
47 Bendix

Robert, sorry about the last picture not coming out clear the lighting is bad this is the green wire from the bottom of the solinoid that goes to the flow tube switch.

Post# 74850 , Reply# 27   7/23/2005 at 21:19 (6,823 days old) by peteski50 (New York)        
47 Bendix

peteski50's profile picture
Hi Bruce,
Real nice machine. Going to be real Great.
Peter


Post# 74857 , Reply# 28   7/23/2005 at 23:10 (6,823 days old) by bpetersxx (laf in on the banks of the Wabash River)        

bpetersxx's profile picture
Well I like the pictures and appreciate them being posted

More would be even better


Post# 74869 , Reply# 29   7/23/2005 at 23:47 (6,823 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

unimatic1140's profile picture
OK that's better, now I know. The plane Green wire is for the warm solenoid and the yellow wire is for the hot solenoid. The Green Wire with the Yellow Tracer (stripes) is the neutral return wire. Here is how to wire in the new valve...

The Green wire goes onto the one of the prongs of the cold water solenoid of the new valve.

The Yellow wire goes onto the one of the prongs of the hot water solenoid of the new valve.

You have to cut the Green/Yellow striped wire and create a Y connection and connect one G/Y wire to the hot solenoid and one G/Y wire to the cold solenoid.

Your biggest challenge in this whole thing is going to be mouting the new valve in the spot where the old valve went. I seem to remember this being a bit of a pain when I did it my '47 Bendix, but it can be done.


Post# 74870 , Reply# 30   7/23/2005 at 23:49 (6,823 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY)        

toggleswitch's profile picture
Thank you!

Post# 74906 , Reply# 31   7/24/2005 at 08:50 (6,822 days old) by bendixman (Racine)        
47 Bendix

Thanks Robert. I will now buy the switch and do the rewire of the valve hopefully I won't electricute myself and my Bendix will be happy and working again. I will keep you posted of the events.

Post# 75360 , Reply# 32   7/27/2005 at 12:17 (6,819 days old) by bendixman (Racine)        
47 Bendix Question for Robert

Robert, I purchased a new water valve which is for a GE washer. The picture i'm uploading shows the 4 connectors.Counting from the left as being #1 and the far right being #4 what do I have to do to convert this from a 3 wire connection to a 4 wire connection.As per your post to me on 7/24 you say that one connector to the hot and one to the cold (does it make a difference which one?)You then say to make a Y on the hot water wire and attach it to the hot and the same for the cold. I hope I got this right as i'm not great with electrical conversions. Let me know if this is correct, I don't want to be SHOCKED to find out that I did it wrong.

Post# 75370 , Reply# 33   7/27/2005 at 13:15 (6,819 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY)        

toggleswitch's profile picture
On a solenoid valce as this, the hot and neutral valves can go to either terminal, as long as each valve gets one of each.

If I read Rober't instructions correctly here it is re-phrased:

Take the wire that is ONE color and stick it, as directed, to the proper temperature valve.

Take the other ONE color wire and stick it on the other temperature valve.

The wire that is both colors needs to go to the two remainig terminals(one on each temperature valve). Here you will need to make a "jumper" or splice the wire into two needed connections.


If the temps are wrong later,(which they should not be), simply reverse the incoming water hoses, if that is easier than electrical work for you.

Sorry, I hope I haven't confused you!!!

I am confident you will do this to perfection!


Post# 75371 , Reply# 34   7/27/2005 at 13:15 (6,819 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

unimatic1140's profile picture
Hi Bruce the valve you purchased should work perfectly for a replacement. The water flow might little bit too fast, if it causes a leak at the vacuum breaker where the fill stream goes into the outer tub, you can turn the pressure down at the faucets since its not a timed fill washer.

Okay left to right:

Lets make the left the cold valve and the right the hot valve.

#1 Green Wire
#2 Green/Yellow on of the Y-connection wires

#3 Yellow Wire
#4 Green/Yellow the other wire on the Y-connection.

Be sure to hook the cold water hose to the left valve and vice-versa.

Be advised that with this modern valve you are going to have either or hot or cold wash (hot dial selects hot and warm dial selects cold) and a cold rinse.


Post# 75372 , Reply# 35   7/27/2005 at 13:18 (6,819 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY)        

toggleswitch's profile picture
Robert, simultaneous and from two different cites.

COOL!


Post# 75391 , Reply# 36   7/27/2005 at 15:25 (6,819 days old) by bendixman (Racine)        
47 Bendix

Robert thanks for the help, I will try and do it the way you said. I'm pressed for time today as i'm leaving for Las Vegas tonight and i'm trying to pack. I will return in a week and let you know how it turns out. Again thanks.
Bruce


Post# 75525 , Reply# 37   7/28/2005 at 14:45 (6,818 days old) by westytoploader ()        

Kewl! When I get back from vacation I'll have to try this with my '47 and see what happens...but I'll probably have to replace the neutral line anyway though!

Good luck!



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