Thread Number: 27651
'61 Maytag A700 first wash 		[Down to Last]

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Post# 424054   3/21/2010 at 22:08 (5,139 days old) by dnastrau (Lords Valley, PA)        

Greetings:

I just thought I'd report back with my initial findings on the first wash for my '61 A700. The washer fills correctly to all three levels, so the pressure switch is OK.

The temperature switch works on all three settings. However, when switching from cold to warm the cold button does not pop out. It does pop out if you press the hot button. I will have to take the switch out to see if I can correct this (hopefully.) The rinse temperature knob on the top of the console works as well.

On to the infamous three-solenoid water inlet valve... The hot water barely dribbled out on the hot setting and that solenoid buzzes. The hot inlet screen looks a bit clogged so that may be part of the problem. The warm setting seemed to work and cold worked fine. I hope that I can clean and rebuild this three-solenoid valve as they are expensive and getting harder to find. Not sure if a two solenoid valve can be made to work in its place...

The agitation seems great - overall very quiet and strong. Both high and low agitation work fine so the motor windings seem to be good. I put the old belts back on because the new pump belt was too loose (not happy about that) and I didn't feel like messing with the pump adjustment today. The motor was making a high pitched ringing sound at one point which turned out to be the metal motor shield resonating. I'll have to check the tightness of the screws on that; maybe that is one of the reasons why they switched to a plastic motor cover on later models.

The spin/drain worked fine with a strong spin on both high and low speeds. The tub brake brought it to a stop quickly and it did not screech. I got a drip from the pump but I think it was just the drain hose clamp. This is still the old metal case pump!

The lid switch plunger is stuck in - I have tried to loosen it from the outside to no avail. I will have to remove the top and see what is wrong. Hopefully the switch is OK.

Finally to the problem that was probably why the previous owner got rid of it... The machine shuts off by itself because the timer knob does not always stay pulled out. I am not sure what would cause this. Has anyone seen this problem before? The timer seems to work normally otherwise.

That's all for now. I tried to take some video with my digital camera. I'll see how it came out and try to get it on Youtube in the next day or two.

Thanks!

Andrew S.






Post# 424057 , Reply# 1   3/21/2010 at 22:24 (5,139 days old) by cfz2882 (Belle Fourche,SD)        

good news there are only a couple problems-parts from a 2 valve
inlet might fit the 3 valve inlet valve?


Post# 424058 , Reply# 2   3/21/2010 at 22:44 (5,139 days old) by dnastrau (Lords Valley, PA)        
Valve parts could be interchangeable...

 ...since the rebuild kits seem to be pretty generic. Gemline sells the kits among others. Since the valve body is nylon I hope it will just be a matter of cleaning it up and replacing the diaphragms.

But yes - overall the news is good and this is a solid machine. Not bad for being almost 50 years old!

Post# 424097 , Reply# 3   3/22/2010 at 05:31 (5,139 days old) by Gyrafoam (Wytheville, VA)        

I wonder if a problem with the out-of-balance system is affecting the timer and causing it to shut off?
I don't think the lid-switch on this model has anything to do with it. Also, if the lid-switch has "disabled" itself---that's a good thing for you----- as you can watch all the action!

Post# 424104 , Reply# 4   3/22/2010 at 06:40 (5,139 days old) by dnastrau (Lords Valley, PA)        
Out of balance switch

 Hmm... maybe that is the problem. The tub wasn't moving around much though. Maybe it is out of adjustment or partially stuck.

Post# 424354 , Reply# 5   3/23/2010 at 11:57 (5,137 days old) by bobbyderegis (Boston)        

Andrew:
The lid switch is actually a mechanism that will physically pull the timer knob in when the lid is opened. They always got out of whack and rusted in place. The old Mallory timers are tempermental too. If the lid switch is placing any pressure on the shut-off arm, the knob may pop in. The unbalance trip mechanism is part of this too. The lid switch, unbalance arm, and manually pushing in the timer knob basically all do the same thing. Lift the top and you can see the mechanism clearly. I believe the 700 series and 140 series were the only ones to use the mechanical lid switch.
Bobby in Boston

Post# 424362 , Reply# 6   3/23/2010 at 13:14 (5,137 days old) by dnastrau (Lords Valley, PA)        
Lid switch

 Thanks Bobby - I need to pull the top off anyhow to raise up the tub enough to grease the damper pads on the base. I hope I can get the lid switch mechanism working again. I am currently cleaning/refurbishing the water valve and that will keep me busy for the meanwhile.

Andrew S.

Post# 424374 , Reply# 7   3/23/2010 at 14:18 (5,137 days old) by bobbyderegis (Boston)        

Andrew:
Do you have the service manual for this model? It is very helpful. I have one to share, but it is in NY and may be a while before I can get it.
Bobby in Boston

Post# 424403 , Reply# 8   3/23/2010 at 15:52 (5,137 days old) by dnastrau (Lords Valley, PA)        
Service manuals

 By the end of the week hopefully I will have three that I ordered used...

"Repair Master" manual for Maytag (already received; covers the old AMP models up through the "08" series. This has good general information.)

Maytag Helical drive repair manual (seller says 1957 copyright - we'll see. If so that had to be the first edition. I was hoping to get the last edition of this one but it is now supposedly NLA from WhirlTag.)

Maytag service manual "08", "10", "12" models (covers '66 on but is supposed to be very good in general. This one is NLA too apparently.)

Thanks for the offer to browse that manual - I'll see what my recent purchases bring first.

Andrew S.


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