Thread Number: 27744
Still looking for that perfect vintage Kenmore or Whirlpool
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Post# 425214   3/27/2010 at 16:13 (5,136 days old) by rll70sman (Hastings, Minnesota)        

Thank you to the few who've responded to my post about a month ago. I've received a couple of really tempting offers for vintage machines, but I really don't want to rush. My heart is set on a belt-driven Kenmore or Whirlpool machine with at least the three basic cycles: regular, permanent press, and delicate, as well as water temperature selections that include a warm rinse. Color doesn't matter just as long as the machine is good working condition and isn't rusted, dented, or scratched.

Gordon, if you read this, please get a hold of me. I misplaced your primary contact information. Thanks again!

Rob





Post# 425250 , Reply# 1   3/27/2010 at 20:41 (5,136 days old) by Gyrafoam (Wytheville, VA)        

How did that gorgeous '66 Whirly set get away from you?

Post# 425296 , Reply# 2   3/28/2010 at 11:17 (5,136 days old) by rll70sman (Hastings, Minnesota)        

Believe me, I wanted that set something fierce! I suppose I could put my modern Whirlpool washer and dryer up for sale and get something like this. But, I only have room for another washer in my townhome utility room. Around here, there seems to be few, if any, belt-driven Kenmore or Whirlpool washers on craigslist.

Post# 425578 , Reply# 3   3/29/2010 at 17:29 (5,134 days old) by rll70sman (Hastings, Minnesota)        
While on this topic of looking for a vintage washer...

I have another dilemma. How does one attach a Y-connector to the hot and cold water faucets in a recessed washer plumbing box where both faucets are located on the left and the drain is on the right? If a Y-connector is tightly threaded on one faucet, there isn't enough clearance to thread the other Y-connector on the other faucet. Has someone else on here encountered this? There has got to be a solution. Thanks in advance for any feedback.

Rob


Post# 425917 , Reply# 4   3/31/2010 at 14:15 (5,132 days old) by washerlover (The Big Island, Hawai’i)        

washerlover's profile picture
Not to worry, the '66 Whirly set is in a good home and all are welcome to visit them any time!

Post# 425946 , Reply# 5   3/31/2010 at 17:56 (5,132 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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Rob

I have a solution for you...will post pics ASAP....just home from Hospital...kidney stone attack...4 days and counting....anywho...I'll get to you soon.....


Post# 425950 , Reply# 6   3/31/2010 at 18:43 (5,132 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey)        
OK...here goes

yogitunes's profile picture
this one option you can use one or both depending on your valves, to extend out, and attach a "Y" conector...the whole thing does not turn, just the sleeve to tighten and adjust position

Post# 425951 , Reply# 7   3/31/2010 at 18:47 (5,132 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
next option.....attach a 3/4/5 foot hose to faucet, whatever you may have available.....then a 3/4 inch double male fitting....and then a "Y" connector....and then the 2 washer hoses to this....all available at almost any hardware store....I found these at Lowes

Post# 425953 , Reply# 8   3/31/2010 at 19:04 (5,132 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
NEXT.....what kind of drain application do you have?.....we have solutions for that also.....is it a 1 1/2 inch or 2 inch pipe?


schedule 40 pipe.....3/4 inch...a few elbows and a few cut pieces of straight pipe...a little glue...maybe a clamp or 2...and you have 2 hook ends that will connect to each drain hose and sit in the drain pipe side by side, with plenty of air gap.....we can rig anything....lol


Post# 427253 , Reply# 9   4/6/2010 at 16:23 (5,126 days old) by rll70sman (Hastings, Minnesota)        

Thanks, Martin, for pictorials! I greatly appreciate your help on this. One of these setups is exactly what I had in mind but wasn't sure if there were parts available to accomodate it. I'll keep you posted on which one works best.

As far as the drain is concerned, that may be a bit easier. There is a drain pipe that sticks up about a half inch off the floor next to the water heater. My air conditioner condensate drain empties into it as well as the water softener. An extension on the washer drain hose should fit in the pipe and not crowd the other smaller hoses. There shouldn't be any problems with this drain line carrying away a load of 17 gallons or so per minute from the washer.


Post# 427284 , Reply# 10   4/6/2010 at 18:16 (5,126 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
Just make sure you have an anti-siphon valve if your running a hose direct into a floor drain, or elevate somehow, otherwise the machine will drain while its trying to fill....although a floor drain works best if its a solid tub machine....but otherwise yes, the floor drain should handle the water from the machine....

Post# 427833 , Reply# 11   4/9/2010 at 19:21 (5,123 days old) by rll70sman (Hastings, Minnesota)        

Martin, you had the perfect solution for the water valve spacing issue in my recessed washer plumbing box. Thank you, thank you! I went to Ace Hardware here in town and found the two parts you illustrated in your first picture. The swivel on the angle extension will allow enough space to thread the Y-connector which has an adjustable collar. What's nice about these Y-connectors I bought today is they have stainless steel ball valves that allow water to be shut off to one or both machines.

Post# 427834 , Reply# 12   4/9/2010 at 19:38 (5,123 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
wonderful...I'm glad you found a solution that worked for you....anything can be rigged if you put your mind to it...


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