Thread Number: 27747
My New Maytag A712 Washer
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Post# 425268   3/28/2010 at 04:44 (5,115 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        

I finally found an A712 and It's beautiful. Here's the craigslist post pic...my camera isn't working right now.
I brought it Saturday afternoon out in Jersey for $100.00.

It has some paint chips and scratches. What's the best way to take care of that so It'll look blended and smooth?
I'm going to need longer(Maytag) fill hoses and a drain hose...they can't reach the sink connectors and drain sink.

So far I've cleaned up the outside and inside the tub...I'll remove the front panel and have a look-see underneath.
But, I'm having a problem removing the agitator.

It's stuck...any suggestions?





Post# 425271 , Reply# 1   3/28/2010 at 05:52 (5,115 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

goatfarmer's profile picture
Nice machine! Does that one have a screw that holds the agitator on?

Post# 425276 , Reply# 2   3/28/2010 at 07:04 (5,115 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey)        
Good going Harry!

yogitunes's profile picture
Glad to see you finally found one you liked....now the fun begins....and yes check to see if it has the set screw that holds the agitator on...How long of hoses did you need?...I got 12 foot fill hoses from a parts supplier, and the drain hoses come up to 8 feet long....

Post# 425279 , Reply# 3   3/28/2010 at 08:12 (5,115 days old) by dnastrau (Lords Valley, PA)        
Congratulations! Touch up...

Nice Maytag! You could try using a small artist's brush and some appliance touch up paint. That is what I did on my '61 Maytag. It isn't perfect but looks better than chipped porcelain.

Post# 425284 , Reply# 4   3/28/2010 at 08:42 (5,115 days old) by Gyrafoam (Wytheville, VA)        

Yes, feel down towards the bottom of the agitator barrel and you will feel a round area where there is a bolt holding the agitator on. Use an allen wrench to loosen and tighten it.

Post# 425325 , Reply# 5   3/28/2010 at 14:43 (5,114 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        
Thanks guys

I did remove the screw from the bottom of the agitator barrel and it refuses to move. I don't know what else to do...anymore suggestions? I really need all the expert input help I can get to remove the agitator.

How about appliance touch up spray paint, is there a best way to use that? Which kind is most effective, tube paint or spray? And, is there a "porcelain" spray paint?

Hey Yogi, how are you...the fill hoses length are fine and the Maytag "THICK" 8 foot rubber hoses is what I need. Do you know the cost of the 8 foot hose?

(Look-see) The inside of the cabinet is VERY clean...a little suds water splash on the upper sides of the cabinet but, that's all. Oh, and aged dust dirt.

I'm going to start cleaning out the top and inside of the washer a little later.


Post# 425335 , Reply# 6   3/28/2010 at 15:48 (5,114 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Fairfield, CA)        

redcarpetdrew's profile picture
Congrats! A A712 is a great addition to any collection. You can try filling the tub with hot water up to where the base of the agitator is on the trans post. This does not have a 'drive block' like the older machines like the 700 or 142 has so it's agitator to shaft. Maytag made a puller for that style agitator. In fact, QSD_DAN just used ours to pull one off a 712 he was parting out. I'll try to see if I can take a picture of it so you can see what it looks like and possibly duplicate when I get in to the shop this week. The hot water may do the trick if it expands the agitator. God forbid, if you break it getting it off, there are TONS of that common style available!

RCD


Post# 425362 , Reply# 7   3/28/2010 at 18:51 (5,114 days old) by dnastrau (Lords Valley, PA)        
Paint; stuck agitator; no drive block on my A700...

For my exterior touch up I use appliance epoxy paint. For small areas like chips I spray it in a paper cup and use a small artist's brush. Mineral spirits will clean the brush.

For touch up on the gray base I found that Rustoleum "smoke gray" #7786 is almost a perfect match. The only downside is it is a gloss spray paint and the original is more of a semi gloss/satin. It sure looks better than stained original paint or rusty metal though.

On the agitator: Several people here said that dumping a couple of large pots of boiling water down the hole where the lint filter normally is sometimes helps to get them loose. I was lucky as the one in my '61 A700 came right off. When you put it back on be sure to clean any rust off of the shaft's splines and then coat them with some petroleum jelly and you'll never have a problem getting it off in the future.

Just a follow up on what Andrew (redcarpetdrew) said about Maytag agitators. My A700 has a splined shaft (no drive block) and will accept the later "Power Fin" agitators. As a matter of fact, the original bakelite agitator was replaced with a '66 and newer black "Power Fin" on mine at some point in the past. Based on the three books that I have it even looks like the old AMP series Maytags have a splined agitator.

Good luck in getting it off. I'll bet that hot water will do the trick.

Andrew S.


Post# 425371 , Reply# 8   3/28/2010 at 20:29 (5,114 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
Harry

the original hose for Maytags is expensive, and I think it only comes in 5 foot lengths, a longer one would be available maybe if you get one for a model without the anti-siphon, where it connects directly to the pump....next option is I have a few 5 footers, cut off the gooseneck, and use a few connectors, this would make it the length you need, and still be the thick hose your looking for, these puppies are stiff hoses, can't wait to see this machine up and running and loads of pics....i love your version because of all the speed options, mainly the high spins with the slow wash....something to keep in mind when running a long drain hose, also, theres a pulley option for the motor that makes the pump run faster for high pump out levels

new toys are so much fun.....keep us posted


Post# 425374 , Reply# 9   3/28/2010 at 20:34 (5,114 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        
keep 'em coming

Thanks...I'll try the pots of boiling water...hopefully it'll do the trick.

Tell me, how much tub leaning is TOO MUCH? It maybe nothing but, it seems something is off-center.


Post# 425382 , Reply# 10   3/28/2010 at 21:07 (5,114 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        
Tell me, how much tub leaning is TOO MUCH? It maybe nothing

qsd-dan's profile picture
The springs may need to be adjusted to center the tub. My 712 (formally A490) was waaaaay off straight from the factory when it was new in 1985.

Run a few large loads through the machine and see where the tub ends up at the end of the spin cycles, before attempting to re-center it.


Post# 425393 , Reply# 11   3/28/2010 at 22:02 (5,114 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        

Are you able to tell with an empty tub? I'm running the spin cycle with the front panel off right now and I notice when it begins to spin there's a throbbing, hard vibrating sound. The tub shakes TOO much for while being empty. The cabinet is stable but, the empty tub bumps against the cabinet as it complete the spin. I'm not a mechanic but, how do I start to (adjusting the springs to-the-center-of the tub)? What do I need to do and is it a difficult task?

Post# 425400 , Reply# 12   3/28/2010 at 22:39 (5,114 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

qsd-dan's profile picture
there's a throbbing, hard vibrating sound. The tub shakes TOO much for while being empty. The cabinet is stable but, the empty tub bumps against the cabinet as it complete the spin.


Something is seriously wrong! The "tree" should only shake very minimally during the spin cycle, if at all, with an empty tub.

First, check all 3 springs and make sure there aren't any broken ones, or ones that are missing the lower anchor and double nut.

If that checks out, the springs may need some serious adjustments. If the inner tub was ever removed for any reason (stem and seal replacement or a complete overhaul), the person doing the job may have not taken the time to "center" the inner tub before putting the machine back together. Usually there will be a scrapping sound of the inner tub rubbing (or smacking) against the outer tub if it's waaaaay out of center. It doesn't take much, though.

This would be a good opportunity to check and or lube and or replace the damper pads. Doing any of those requires the springs to be re-adjusted. Might as well kill 2 birds with one stone!


Post# 425415 , Reply# 13   3/29/2010 at 00:06 (5,114 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        

Martin, will the pulley for the motor that makes the pump run faster speed up all the other action as well...like the 50 Hz pulley?

Could the tub have been knocked-off center more so because of being laid on its back while loading the washer on the moving van... I didn't have a tub block.
After checking it again, when the tub stops spinning the outer tub top rim (over-hang) isn't wayyyy off center...it's about 1/2" OUT more on the right or left side of the tub.
And, there isn't any scrapping sounds or smacking against the outer tub during peak high speed spin...just slight bumping...the cabinet doesn't move.
But, I did notice the front right leveling leg is lower than the others could this cause bad balancing?


Post# 425424 , Reply# 14   3/29/2010 at 00:49 (5,114 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        

Hey guys, I'm letting the washer agitate with the boiling hot water and the "Power-Fin" agitator will not release itself from the shaft.

Post# 425501 , Reply# 15   3/29/2010 at 12:12 (5,113 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        

Should I have let the agitator sit in the boiling water? The agitator will not pull off, what can I do without breaking tht agitator.

All 3 spring are fine, all have double nuts. When tightening the springs do I make the adjustment from underneath the baseframe only? Should I adjust all 3 springs? And, what can I use as a 1/2 lb. balancing weight to help center the tub?

When the tub starts spinning there's a vibrating (RUMBLING) sound. I read in the service manual the "radial bearing may need to be replaced". But, I (timed) the brakes and it stopped in (6 seconds), that's normal functional time.

Should I replace the Brake Package System?



Post# 425513 , Reply# 16   3/29/2010 at 13:53 (5,113 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

qsd-dan's profile picture
When tightening the springs do I make the adjustment from underneath the baseframe only?

Yes. I use a 4X4 piece of wood and place it under the right (looking at the machine) front foot. It will allow you to slide under and reach all 3 springs nuts.

Should I adjust all 3 springs?

Adjust only the spring(s) that allow the tub to become center. From there, you must keep an eye on the spin cycles while doing laundry and judge if any spring (or all) need to be tightened to bring the tub center or keep the machine from going out of balance too easily. It takes a few loads of laundry to get them adjusted to perfection.

When the tub starts spinning there's a vibrating (RUMBLING) sound.

Yeah, that's probably the radial bearing going. You'll need the brake tool to remove the brake package. Once the brake package is off, turn it upside down and the bearing will usually fall right out. Install in reverse. You'll need to re-adjust the lug stop after installing the pulley. It's easy and is probably off anyway.

Should I replace the Brake Package System?

Don't replace it unless the tub is indexing during agitation. If the brake makes any noise while braking after a spin, it just needs a teaspoon or so of thick oil dumped into it.


Post# 425518 , Reply# 17   3/29/2010 at 14:14 (5,113 days old) by dnastrau (Lords Valley, PA)        
Make sure the washer is level before you adjust those spring

...or you may just be compensating for the washer not being level in the first place. I level my machines on the top of the cabinet across the front (in front of the lid opening) and sides (next to the lid opening.) Adjust the feet until level and tighten the jam nuts - then recheck. Also check for diagonal rocking. It may take a bit of trial and error.



Post# 425523 , Reply# 18   3/29/2010 at 14:37 (5,113 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        

Qsd-dan, when I first checked out the springs I noticed the eye bolt and nut moved along with the spring. This made me wonder if I had to (hold) the nut still while I tightened the nut underneath the baseframe.

Just to be sure, how do you determine first what spring or springs need to be tightened. And, is there a such a thing as TOO TIGHT?

Dnastrau, "I level my machines on the top of the cabinet across the front..." what do you mean, by your eyes?
One of my leveling foot pad is worn out to the metal footing.


Post# 425524 , Reply# 19   3/29/2010 at 14:44 (5,113 days old) by dnastrau (Lords Valley, PA)        
Leveling with a bubble level

I use a bubble level like a carpenter would use - see my link for example.

You can pick up a cheap one almost anywhere that you can buy tools.


CLICK HERE TO GO TO dnastrau's LINK


Post# 425529 , Reply# 20   3/29/2010 at 14:51 (5,113 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        
COOL...

make sense...I figured that...can't go wrong with the leveler.

Post# 425530 , Reply# 21   3/29/2010 at 14:51 (5,113 days old) by dnastrau (Lords Valley, PA)        
Maytag rubber foot pads are part # 210684...

...and are available through nearly any parts supplier.



Post# 425533 , Reply# 22   3/29/2010 at 14:55 (5,113 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        
EXCELLENT...

you read my mind (LOL)

Post# 425534 , Reply# 23   3/29/2010 at 14:58 (5,113 days old) by dnastrau (Lords Valley, PA)        
Glad that I can be of some help...

...since I am usually asking lots of questions instead. Good luck getting it running smoothly. Based on all that I know you have yourself an excellent machine!

Post# 425535 , Reply# 24   3/29/2010 at 15:00 (5,113 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        

Right now, I'm trying the boiling water and towels placed or wrapped on or around the agitator and soaking... I hope this works. Is there anything I can put in the water that could help losen the agitator?

Post# 425539 , Reply# 25   3/29/2010 at 15:10 (5,113 days old) by dnastrau (Lords Valley, PA)        
Not that I know of - just hot water

I'd stick with hot water at this point if I were dealing with the same issue.

Post# 425550 , Reply# 26   3/29/2010 at 15:45 (5,113 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        
OKay...

I'll keep you posted.

Post# 425583 , Reply# 27   3/29/2010 at 18:10 (5,113 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

qsd-dan's profile picture
I noticed the eye bolt and nut moved along with the spring. This made me wonder if I had to (hold) the nut still while I tightened the nut underneath the baseframe.

Keep cranking on the nut, it'll eventually break free. It's common to have some schmutz or rust on the threads of the anchor bolt and it'll twist the spring around a little bit until the nut breaks free.

Just to be sure, how do you determine first what spring or springs need to be tightened.

Adjust the spring opposite of where the tub is leaning out of center. Example: If the tub is leaning diagonally to the front right, you'd adjust the left rear spring to bring it back to center.

is there a such a thing as TOO TIGHT?

YES!!!

You want the springs adjusted tight enough that the machine doesn't easily go off balance. If the springs are adjusted too tight, it'll transmit vibrations to the cabinet during the spin and you'll think you have a GM Frigidaire washer vibrating and skating across the floor (ahhhhhh brings back memories of using the WCI-63, lol) Also, if the springs are adjusted too tight, you'll wear out the damper pads at a much quicker rate. It's a balancing act, but it doesn't take too much effort to find the sweet spot.


Post# 425610 , Reply# 28   3/29/2010 at 20:30 (5,113 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        

Guys, please be patient with me remember I'm not a mechanic...I'm learn as you go.

Is there a best way to get access to the leveling legs? Will it be ok to lay the washer on it's back? I'm playing it safe, I don't want to damage anything afterall, the machine maybe over 20 years old.

The front leveling legs seem to be locked or (rusted) stuck also. What is the best tool to use? I want to lower the legs close to the floor then start making centering adjustmments.

BTW, the agitator will not come loose.


Post# 425641 , Reply# 29   3/29/2010 at 22:19 (5,113 days old) by dnastrau (Lords Valley, PA)        
There should be a jam nut on the legs

Yes - you could gently lay the machine on its back to gain better access. If the threads on the legs are rusty, get some penetrating oil like PB Blaster, Kroil, CRC Freeze-off, etc. from a hardware or auto parts store (even Walmart) and spray them. Loosen the jam nuts and then adjust them down and measure them to make them the same length to get a baseline adjustment. You can replace that missing foot at the same time.

Post# 425665 , Reply# 30   3/29/2010 at 23:23 (5,113 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        
GUESS WHAT!!!

My A712 is DEAD!!! I leaned the washer against a chair and started to work on loosening the jammed nuts and feet. The chair moved and the machine fell on it's front. The control panel shook loose and fell out of place. It opened it completely to try and reattach it and plugged the machine in to see if it still was working...nothing...not a sound. When I opened the control panel again to see if any wires were loose I plugged in the machine and the timmer sparked and popped. IT'S OVER...I feel like I'm and having a TERRIBLE NIGHTMARE and I CANNOT wake up...I JUST CAN'T BELIEVE IT.

Post# 425683 , Reply# 31   3/30/2010 at 01:17 (5,113 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        
IT'S STILL WORKING!!!...

oops!!! the outlet had a short...it's STRANGE, I've been using that same plug outlet all though out the day. I started to use the microwave and saw it had not turn on and tried the opposite plug...IT WORKED...tried the washer and it worked. I thought the washer was a goner since it dropped on the front without the panel. I (blacked out) not realizing the dead plug outlet and did not try the other plug...ooops!!!

Post# 425844 , Reply# 32   3/31/2010 at 00:00 (5,112 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        
1st Washload

Today I did my first Maytag washload in my STILL working A712. It's to check her out and see what I'm working with.
The tub is really bigger than I thought and it looks.
I washed a big load of towels...12 bath size towels (27" x 47") and cleaned all of them.

But, I will need to replace the brakes because the tub indexed during the agitation. (Also need to replace the radial bearing). Although, the tub indexed, the Power-Fins still FORCED those towels to turnover and roll around though out the tub. (The power-fin agitator is AWESOME). I did not overload her, I used the (20 1/2 gallons) water level point. I rinsed the load twice to make sure...ah, just to see it agitate.

I'm looking forward to the new parts... if my A712 used the stronger Maytag (1/2 HP motor), new (brakes and damper pads) and the (bearing), I'm positive it could EASILY handled 15 of these towels using the (22 1/2 gallons) water level point.

BTW, I might have sounded a little crazy last night...I'm NOT...just crazy about my A712 (LOL).
Harry


Post# 425961 , Reply# 33   3/31/2010 at 20:08 (5,111 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
Harry...

the new pulley will give the pump the so called 50hz speed but the agitation and spin will not be affected....


also...your machine may also have a "fuse" located within the lid switch block....just in case it blows and the whole machine stops...simple little auto type small amp fuse...I have gotten more maytags from peope saying it stopped working and threw it out just because of a little fuse they did not know about....rather than call a service guy...easier for them to buy new....go figure...


Post# 425967 , Reply# 34   3/31/2010 at 21:02 (5,111 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        

Martin,

I guess it's not blown because it's working. I don't know what caused the pop...it's still fine. Did you read the email and can you post the pics again? Tell me what you think.


Post# 425970 , Reply# 35   3/31/2010 at 21:17 (5,111 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
I will post the pics again in this thread....I got your email, but it won't let me reply for some damn reason....I figure that out later....3 kidney stones have me in and out of the hosp very little sleep in 4 days, just a lot of major pain and major pain killers....just odd to be carried in from the parking lot by the guards....I'll get better soon...just very tired....

Post# 425976 , Reply# 36   3/31/2010 at 21:41 (5,111 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        
OK! Take it easy...

try the email again...there wasn't a problem the first time you replied.

Post# 426118 , Reply# 37   4/1/2010 at 14:26 (5,110 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
OK Harry...heres the pics you wanted


2 springs from the factory...3 slots available


Post# 426119 , Reply# 38   4/1/2010 at 14:31 (5,110 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
3 slots...and 3 springs....installed...easy as pie....and you don't have to take the motor out to install or remove the springs...just best to unplug for safety.....unless your gonna replace the sliders also...remove 2 belts and 3 screws, and the motor pops out....also remember to replace the ground wire when done

Post# 426261 , Reply# 39   4/2/2010 at 06:40 (5,110 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        

Thanks Martin for the pictiures...I thought there were more...I keep them for visual references...it's extremely helpful for me.

Post# 426279 , Reply# 40   4/2/2010 at 07:53 (5,110 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
I probably have about 2 more, but all they show is me using needlenose pliers to pull the spring from the front to the back and attaching the spring in the slot....like I said it can be done without removing the motor....if is a orbital drive usually the factory springs are both on the left sie, and I add one more to the right....helical drives seem to have a factory spring on each side...i was just a mater of where they wanted the torque to be applied the most, durng wash or spin

Post# 426314 , Reply# 41   4/2/2010 at 11:32 (5,109 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        

OK! Is there something on the motor carriage that indicates the function (agitate & spin)?

Post# 429181 , Reply# 42   4/16/2010 at 07:21 (5,096 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        

My 712 "AGITATION" is unusually loud and noisy, not that good ole' Maytag quiet wash...what's going on...is something not working correctly with transmission...what do I need to do to quiet her down?

Post# 699852 , Reply# 43   8/29/2013 at 18:41 (3,864 days old) by maytaga806 (Howell, Michigan)        

WOW! thanks for showing the inside!

Post# 1129450 , Reply# 44   9/23/2021 at 19:25 (917 days old) by Chef (California)        
3 motor mount springs?

The motor mounts came factory with 2 springs? But adding an additional 3rd spring is recommended?

Post# 1129454 , Reply# 45   9/23/2021 at 20:10 (917 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

qsd-dan's profile picture

Adding a 3rd spring is not recommended. It's used to as a band-aid for issues that should be taken care, particularly a seizing upper transmission sleeve bearing.


Post# 1129483 , Reply# 46   9/24/2021 at 07:25 (917 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Later Helical Drive MT Washers Could Have 3 Motor Springs

combo52's profile picture

And they really helped if you wanted to use the machine to full capacity with large wash loads to keep the main belt from slipping under load when agitating.

 

It also helps to add a motor start capacitor to ALL MT HD washers, not only will you have less problems with the motor starting but it can save the timer & lid switch contacts from failure.

 

I have never seen a top agitator shaft start to seize in a MT washer new enough to have this improved 3 spring motor mount, but it could happen some day.

 

John L.


Post# 1129538 , Reply# 47   9/24/2021 at 21:38 (916 days old) by Good-Shepherd (New Jersey)        
large wash loads to keep the main belt from slipping

Wasn't that a design feature of the Maytag, i.e. the washer gives in to an overload situation and the belt is allowed to slip instead of the machine taking the beating?

Post# 1129540 , Reply# 48   9/24/2021 at 21:56 (916 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

qsd-dan's profile picture

And they really helped if you wanted to use the machine to full capacity with large wash loads to keep the main belt from slipping under load when agitating.

Only my all original '67 806 slips a bit when cold. The upper bearing is seizing up in it and I've been lazy about replacing it. Other than that machine, the rest of my Maytags do not slip at all with a large load.

It also helps to add a motor start capacitor to ALL MT HD washers

 

Agreed 

I have never seen a top agitator shaft start to seize in a MT washer new enough to have this improved 3 spring motor mount, but it could happen some day.

 

Maytag began using the 3 spring mount in the 12 series machines. I have come across 2 that had a completely seized upper bearings in the pitman transmission. These transmissions are no less immune to the problem than previous generations.


Post# 1131720 , Reply# 49   10/23/2021 at 18:31 (887 days old) by Chef (California)        
Re: 3 slots, 3 springs for the motor

Motor comes factory with 2 springs but yogitunes recommends a third spring?


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