Thread Number: 27751
Another stupid question from a novice! KDS-19
[Down to Last]

automaticwasher.org's exclusive eBay Watch:
scroll >>> for more items --- [As an eBay Partner, eBay may compensate automaticwasher.org if you make a purchase using any link to eBay on this page]
Post# 425320   3/28/2010 at 14:20 (5,114 days old) by alabamboy ()        

What's the best way to clean the tub of a Kitchenaid KDS-19? CLR? Comet? Soft Scrub? I just got her today after a quick trip to Atlanta. She's seen some use, but I think she can be cleaned up. Also should I check the pump for glass? As always, thanks for any advice. I'll post pictures when I get them loaded.--Tom




Post# 425334 , Reply# 1   3/28/2010 at 15:36 (5,114 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Fairfield, CA)        

redcarpetdrew's profile picture
I would at least use a good dishwasher cleaner since they have acids in them to clean tubs. Anytime I pick up a dishwasher, I inspect the pump for glass and other debris. This allows me to check the condition of the filters, seals and impellers and clean/replace them for optimal operation.

RCD


Post# 425347 , Reply# 2   3/28/2010 at 17:03 (5,114 days old) by stevet (West Melbourne, FL)        
Drew is on the money!

As usual!
Yeah. I would tear the pump down to make sure all is well and that means all the way down to the motor mounting plate since it does have an additional sump area which was designed to catch the really heavy debris which would not float like glass, china chips, pennies and such. It is an easy breakdown and you really cannot go wrong. Just put it all back the same way it came out.

I would use one of the readily available cleaners out there and that will probably help.
You didn't say what kind of staining or buildup you have so you may not need CLR. Maybe something like ZUD which has oxalic acid in it will remove the rust stains with gentle rubbing
Or go to a good paint store and buy some actual Oxalic acid and try 1 or 2 tablespoons in the main wash. That was what KA used to recommend to remove rust and it did a decent job on the lime too. I know. I had to use it many times when we lived in Queens, NY before our area got the soft city water.
Does a fantastic job on the rust if anyone has that problem.
Just follow it up with a detergent full wash and rinse.


Let us all know if you need more help
Steve


Post# 425377 , Reply# 3   3/28/2010 at 20:42 (5,114 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
SERVICING YOUR NEW TO YOU KDS 19

combo52's profile picture
I would not disasemble the pump very far unless you really want to rebuild it clean up the sump area and filter etc. and the inside of the machine. If you take the pump apart have a drain impeller & seal on hand as its a good idea to replace it on an older machine unless its had very little use.

Post# 425483 , Reply# 4   3/29/2010 at 09:57 (5,113 days old) by alabamboy ()        
Oxalic acid to the rescue!!!

Found a tub and tile product at the local dollar store that has oxalic acid. Worked miracles. Tub looks great!! Thanks for the input!! Took the pump apart and found no large objects or glass although the rubber o-ring that sits between the upper and lower housing was out of place. It seems to be longer then need be. This may need to be replaced. I also have a whinning noise during the drain cycle that gets louder towards the end of the cycle, do i need a new drain pump? As always, you guys rock!! Photos to come!!--Tom in B'ham

Post# 426284 , Reply# 5   4/2/2010 at 08:09 (5,110 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        
Noise During Drain Cycle

beekeyknee's profile picture
There is no separate drain pump. KDS19's use a one directional motor. When it's ready to drain, a solenoid opens a valve and the dirty water is pumped out. Sometimes solenoids get noisy. Try spraying some WD-40 into the solenoid and all around the valve lever. Hold a paper towel under the area to collect the excess WD-40. Use compressed air, to blow the excess around and then wipe off the valve and hoses. Operate the valve by hand a few times to see if it works easier and see if that helps. All KitchenAids' with non-reversible motors have this solenoid valve, unless they are the really old ones, with gravity drain.
A little Zoom Spout Oil, used around the solenoid lever, and then operated by hand, a few times, might make it quieter, too. Use a paper towel to wipe up any excess.
These drain solenoids are often noisy. If you do these things and it's still noisy and bothering you, you can try and replace it. They're probably pretty expensive. As long as it drains properly and you can stand the sound, leave it alone. A lot of ours have made this noise for years. Hope that helps.


Post# 426286 , Reply# 6   4/2/2010 at 08:12 (5,110 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        
Rubber O-ring

beekeyknee's profile picture
Replace the rubber O-ring, between the two pieces of the pump housing.

Post# 426301 , Reply# 7   4/2/2010 at 09:49 (5,109 days old) by alabamboy ()        
O-ring

Thanks Brian, will try the WD-40 on the valve. Where would I get an o-ring to fit the pump housing? Thanks again -Tom

Post# 426325 , Reply# 8   4/2/2010 at 12:28 (5,109 days old) by RevvinKevin (Tinseltown - Shakey Town - La-La Land)        
Another stupid question from a novice!

revvinkevin's profile picture

There are no stupid questions... only stupid answers!


Post# 426337 , Reply# 9   4/2/2010 at 13:09 (5,109 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

rp2813's profile picture
My KDI 21's motor made a seriously raspy sound when it drained. I had only had the machine a few months and had a tech out to listen. He agreed it was a bit noisy and changed out the motor. It helped some, but basically that's just how they sound. 18 years later it sounded the same. Your machine probably just sounds that way and it's normal.

Post# 426594 , Reply# 10   4/3/2010 at 18:23 (5,108 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        
O-ring

beekeyknee's profile picture
There's probably an appliance parts store somewhere in Birmingham that would have that part. If not, you can search the internet. I went through Whirlpool, several years ago, and it was quite a hassle then. I'm sure it's not getting any better. They're phasing out those parts. You have to look for after market parts, most of the time. It might come in a pump rebuild kit, though. If you get into it that far, you might as well do the whole thing, provided everything else is working properly. As you're taking it apart, watch for small washers in unexpected places. There's spring washers, a spacer, and a locking key, under the first screw, that holds the whole impeller together. When you take the gray wash impeller off, make a mental note of the number of s. washers there are, and where they go in comparison to the spacer. Then put the parts back together in the same order they came off and put a piece of scotch tape over the screw to hold it on the impeller until it's ready to go back together. You can use bowels to put things in to keep them in the right order until you're ready to reassemble. And use post-its in the bottom, to help you remember. What ever works for you. There's a blue plastic ring under the wash housing, that comes out after the wash housing screws come out. Then there's another blue plastic piece that's held in with 4 screws(sorry I can't remember the names of these pieces. My service manual is at my Mom and Dad's). Under that is a round metal piece with teeth on it(food grinder, I think)and then there's the pump out impeller. Be careful with that. It has a couple of washers on the top and a couple of washers on the bottom of it, between the pump impeller and the motor shaft seal.The one I'm working on right now has two washers, a thick one and a thin one. The thin one goes next to the seal and the thick one sets on top of it, next to the impeller. All of these washers keep the spacing right, so the impellers don't rub the housing and keep them in the best position for moving water. Then comes the motor shaft seal. It's pushed down inside the very bottom of the sump around the motor shaft, and if you don't look carefully, you might think it's part of the rubber sump lining. IF THE MACHINE IS NOT LEAKING AND YOU DON'T HAVE A NEW SHAFT SEAL, DON'T TAKE THIS OUT. The chances of getting it back in again, without it leaking, are slim. If it is leaking, you shouldn't use the machine. I consider this part one of the most important parts to replace when rebuilding a dishwasher pump. If installed correctly, it should keep the machine running well for a very long time. What I do is clean the shaft well with some 000 or 0000 steal wool and a little dish liquid and then wipe it off well. Make sure the sump is clean and dry also. Then with a little pair of needle nose pliers, reach in between the motor shaft and the rubber top of the seal and pull up on the top of the rubber all the way around, without touching the motor shaft. It must be kept smooth. If you're worried about it, wrap some layers of paper towels or a cloth around it to protect it. If that doesn't work, reach farther back into the seal and grab the metal spring on the inside and pull up. Hold down on the bottom of the rubber sump cover while doing this. You don't want it to come up too. When you get it loose, start turning it around in a circular motion, while holding the top of the motor shaft. Put a little dish soap on the shaft and when it gets to the soap it should slide right off. Then polish up the shaft well with some soap or Zoom Spout oil on the OOOO steal wool until it shines. Clean out the rubber hole where the old seal was sitting with a little dish soap and a lint free cloth. Don't use too much water when cleaning or it will run down and get on the slinger and when you turn it on it will sling soapy dirty water out under the dishwasher. The slinger protects the motor. Run you finger on the inside of the motor shaft seal seat and make sure it feels smooth and clean. Then wipe out the seat and wipe off the shaft until it's all clean. Make sure it all feels nice and smooth. No burrs at the top of the shaft or anything that's rough any where. Now put a tiny bit of Zoom Spout oil(turbine oil)on your thumb and index finger and oil the shaft, the seal seat, and the outside edge of the seal(just enough so it's slick). You can't use any oil with detergent in it. Only Zoom Spout Oil. The new seal is rubber on the outside with a spring and a carbon ring on the inside. You have to be sure to not damage the carbon ring in any way. Carefully start sliding the new seal evenly down the motor shaft. It should be tight, but slide very smoothly. After it's started down the shaft, use both hands and push evenly all the way around the seal with your finger tips. When it gets to the bottom of the sump, a slight push and it should pop into it's seat. They used to make a tool for this, but I've found this technique works pretty well. Give the shaft a turn and see how it feels. It should feel snug, but not binding. Then start reassembling you pump in the order you took it apart. If you bought a kit and you have some new parts you'd like to put in that will make a good replacement, go ahead. Clean as you go along so it will be nice when you're finished. Don't under tighten or over tighten and when you're screwing down something circular, jump across from one screw to the next. When you get to the top of the wash impeller, the spring screws should be rounded up toward you. The hole in the middle should be higher, I guess I should say. When you tighten down the top screw on the wash impeller, give the impeller a turn. You should hear no dragging anywhere. When I did my first one, I put the washers and spacers back like I found them, and I had no trouble at all. But if you buy a kit and you do have trouble, they send extra washers of different thicknesses to help fix the trouble. I'm sending you a link to a site that shows an exploded view of your pump. Bye.

CLICK HERE TO GO TO beekeyknee's LINK


Post# 426978 , Reply# 11   4/5/2010 at 10:12 (5,106 days old) by alabamboy ()        
Awesome!!!

Thanks beekeyknee!!!!!


Forum Index:       Other Forums:                      



Comes to the Rescue!

The Discuss-o-Mat has stopped, buzzer is sounding!!!
If you would like to reply to this thread please log-in...

Discuss-O-MAT Log-In



New Members
Click Here To Sign Up.



                     


automaticwasher.org home
Discuss-o-Mat Forums
Vintage Brochures, Service and Owners Manuals
Fun Vintage Washer Ephemera
See It Wash!
Video Downloads
Audio Downloads
Picture of the Day
Patent of the Day
Photos of our Collections
The Old Aberdeen Farm
Vintage Service Manuals
Vintage washer/dryer/dishwasher to sell?
Technical/service questions?
Looking for Parts?
Website related questions?
Digital Millennium Copyright Act Policy
Our Privacy Policy