Thread Number: 27885
Kenmore 24-inch space saver washer restoration help |
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Post# 427094 , Reply# 2   4/5/2010 at 23:46 (5,106 days old) by rll70sman (Hastings, Minnesota)   |   | |
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Here's another piece of info I forgot to include in the original post. Model 110.81175100 Stock 11751 Serial C11007631 |
Post# 427145 , Reply# 3   4/6/2010 at 08:36 (5,106 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)   |   | |
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Post# 427147 , Reply# 4   4/6/2010 at 08:54 (5,106 days old) by KenmoreGuy64 (Charlotte, NC)   |   | |
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The fill valve is part number 358277 and they are plentiful and cheap.
Definately look at the belt and tighten as needed. That very well may be all you need!! However, if something failed years ago, the problem is most likely still there. What happens at times with these is that water enters the transmission by way of worn seals in the centerpost, especially in 1978 and later machines which have a considerably shorter centerpost. Eventually water contaminates the gearcase oil, and it becomes dirty, sometimes rusty, and thickened. If the agitator is slow to ramp-up, that's an indication of resistance inside the transmission (if the belt is properly tightened). When this is going on, there is usually external evidence, at least in the advanced stages. So check inside the cabinet and see if there is any sign of oil/water having been slung against the cabinet. If you don't know what I mean, look at the pictures of the 1982 500 I posted about in another thread - you can see the greasy spew all over the inside cabinet. When water gets in the trans, an early failure item is the springs that are used to engage and disengage agitation. These rust and break, and interfere with a gearcase going into agitate. I hope I'm wrong but if this were my machine, that is what I would expect is going on. As to the paint on the top - that is very common with those machines and I have cursed Sears for years for choosing to paint many of their washer tops when WP choose to porcelain coat even their cheaper models. Back in 1979-1982, only the upper level machines got porcelain. My solution to that has been one of two things - scrap the top in favor of a porcelain replacement from a donor, OR have the top refinished either myself or at a body shop. That depends on how fussy you are. If the spots are minor, you can sand the spots and treat them with touch-up, but this is temporary at best. Gordon |
Post# 427401 , Reply# 6   4/7/2010 at 08:48 (5,105 days old) by rll70sman (Hastings, Minnesota)   |   | |
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Does anyone on here have a white replacement porcelain top for a 24-inch belt drive? If not, will a body shop even mess with things like this? It'd be nice to preserve as much as possible on this machine since I practically grew up with it. Thanks! Rob |
Post# 427599 , Reply# 8   4/8/2010 at 13:41 (5,103 days old) by KenmoreGuy64 (Charlotte, NC)   |   | |
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Rob -
A new belt won't hurt anything, but if the machine has only been in service 12 years total as you told me, the old belt is unlikely to be worn out. I may however be dried out and stretched now. So, I would put a new one in there and agree with other's advice. That is not a feather-weight job, just so you know. As to the top, porcelain tops are hard to come by now on 29-inch machines, especially for me because I don't like to scrap stuff other than true DOA machines. 24-inch porcelain tops are going to be next to impossible unless some appliance place stached one and still has it. Be prepared that it could have a hole in the left front lid well corner for a bleach dispenser. Looking back at 24-inch models, you need to consider two things - a donor top will require the two sets of holes for the end-cap anchoring feet (1974 and later) and the wiring harness connection block to be in the right rear corner. This requires 1977 and later parts (the wiring harness is not long enough in a 1977 or later machine to be stretched to the 1976 and earlier mid-top location). Problem is with 1977 and later tops, I can't think of even one machine that had a porcelain top in that time frame. There was a 1977 and 1979 70 series and they were painted. There was an 80 series in the 1979 era (maybe) and it could have been porcelain coated, but I don't want to swear to that as there were some 80 series machines that were painted in 29-inch versions. I would certainly check around if I were you, as there is nothing much more pleasing in washer work than having a rust-bucket for a washer that you can cure in an instant by replacing the top with a porcelain one, but because of the rarity of the item you need, just keep in mind that you may be looking a while. The best place to check is used appliance stores that were in business in the 90s that might have kept this stuff laying around. If it were me, I would make other plans to re-use the original. I'll offer this for you - this summer I am going to be having my 1961 and 1974 Kenmore cabinets painted at a body-shop where the manager is a friend of mine and to whom I refer business at times. He has painted a couple of my Mustangs. I am going to have the original tops painted to my 1977 and 1980 Kenmores, and to another or two at the same time, so if you want to dissassemble yours and send it here (it's pretty light, but take the porcelain lid if you have one off first) and I'll include it with my stuff. If you want to paint it yourself, I have painted these once or twice with OK-ish results. I stripped mine of rust using everything from a wire brush to naval jelly, then primed it with rusty metal primer, and finally used appliance epoxy to finish the job. The results were ok - not perfect, but ok. You can try that if you want to minimize expense and have that "done yourself" feeling of accomplishment. Gordon |