Thread Number: 28123
Help identifying this Kenmore, please
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Post# 430415   4/21/2010 at 16:37 (5,089 days old) by retropia ()        

Any idea what year this Kenmore washer is? I don't believe I've ever seen one that looks like this. I'm thinking it is 1980s vintage, but not sure.

CLICK HERE TO GO TO retropia's LINK on Detroit Craigslist





Post# 430416 , Reply# 1   4/21/2010 at 16:39 (5,089 days old) by retropia ()        
Control panel

Could a touch-control panel like this be repaired? I'm guessing it would be impossible to find a NOS replacement, if the original went on the fritz.

Post# 430421 , Reply# 2   4/21/2010 at 17:06 (5,089 days old) by KenmoreGuy64 (Charlotte, NC)        

kenmoreguy64's profile picture
That looks like the Limited Edition 1982 model. The panel was very similar on 1980 models, however they had woodgrain on top.

Neat machine - we should put a link to this on the Imperial forum.

As to repairing the electronics - I've been told that someone who knows what they're doing should be able to fix these, in the right situation. This panel is a combination of mechanical and electronic parts.

Gordon


Post# 430436 , Reply# 3   4/21/2010 at 18:44 (5,089 days old) by mykl711 ()        
the date

call the number ask for the serial number and model number and date it.....

appliance411.Com



Post# 430440 , Reply# 4   4/21/2010 at 19:05 (5,089 days old) by Kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC)        

kenmoreguy64's profile picture
If you give us a model number and serial number, I can tell you myself. Several people here can in fact.

Model should be something like 110.82294100 or something like that, and serial C20599999. The serial will begin with C or J, most likely a C.

Gordon


Post# 430441 , Reply# 5   4/21/2010 at 19:21 (5,089 days old) by retropia ()        
Thanks

I sent an e-mail to the seller; I'll report if I hear back. Would a 1982 Kenmore have a porcelain top and lid, or would it all be enamel? I'm curious about how complicated it would be to paint the body in a different color.

Post# 430442 , Reply# 6   4/21/2010 at 19:34 (5,089 days old) by Volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)        
HOLY WOW!!!!!

volvoguy87's profile picture
I think I HAVE this set! For $50.00 I would buy it and replace mine or use it as a parts machine (depending on which one is in better shape. Of course, I REALLY want the last version of the Lady Kenmore electronic set, so if you want mine, let's talk. Mine are in rougher shape and need to be painted. They are both white. If you can get this washer for $50.00 and don't want it, let's talk. (I can't get to metro Detroit from Cincinnati right now. Central Ohio is much easier to get to.)

GO GET IT, these don't grow on trees!
Dave


Post# 430452 , Reply# 7   4/21/2010 at 20:28 (5,089 days old) by chaskelljr2 (Washington, D. C.)        
1984-86 Limited Edition Washer.....

@ Gordon....

I agree..... what's this machine doing over here on the "Deluxe Forum"??? This machine belongs on the "Imperial Forum"... This is where we also have a friendly disagreement on things... You say that this is a 1982??? Okay then, I thought the 1982 version of this machine was the Lady Kenmore version that Volvoguy87 has in his collection???

And I thought that the Limited Edition version came out in 1984????

I got a picture of this machine in Black in my 1985 Sears Catalog right beside the matching dryer. Beautiful looking machine.

And @ Volvoguy87..... This one's got your name on it if you want it.... You want to perserve your Lady Kenmore version of this machine, this might be your best shot right here. So.... if you want it, go up there and go get it...

--Charles--


Post# 430455 , Reply# 8   4/21/2010 at 20:47 (5,089 days old) by Volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)        
Sweeten the deal!

volvoguy87's profile picture
Ok, new offer from me!

I can't tell by the photographs, but this washer looks like a Limited Edition Electronic Lady Kenmore. In other words, the model that came after the set I presently have. If it is the later version, I will offer my matching Lady Kenmore Electronic set (1981 or 82 models) for free to someone who would be kind enough to pick up this washer from outside of Detroit and get it into Ohio. My Electronic Lady Kenmore dryer is electric, not gas. If they want, I also have a complete Harvest Gold 1972 Lady Kenmore with the garage door and keyboard control panel I can throw in. The cabinet on the 72 isn't wonderful, but it does run. The mechanicals will need some attention (there is a leak somewhere, maybe the lint filter, and its centerpost bearings need some oil).

I haven't yet contacted the seller because I don't want to commit to something I can't pick up (going out of town this weekend and have some busy weekends ahead). Also, if someone else is already after this washer, I don't want to step on their toes.

Any takers?
Dave


CLICK HERE TO GO TO Volvoguy87's LINK


Post# 430465 , Reply# 9   4/21/2010 at 22:33 (5,089 days old) by retropia ()        
Interesting offer

The Detroit washer looks interesting, but I was thinking I'd rather have a matched set. It isn't too difficult for me to get to Detroit and retrieve this one.

If you'd really like this Detroit washer, I think we can make it happen, assuming it's still available and it's the model you want.

Send me an e-mail (my address is in my profile) and we can work out the details.


Post# 430567 , Reply# 10   4/22/2010 at 15:27 (5,088 days old) by Volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)        
An update.

volvoguy87's profile picture
I called the seller and reserved the machine. Doug has been so kind in offering to go and get the washer and bring it into Ohio for me. Thanks again Doug!

Have a great day,
Dave


Post# 430583 , Reply# 11   4/22/2010 at 18:52 (5,088 days old) by KenmoreGuy64 (Charlotte, NC)        

kenmoreguy64's profile picture
About the finish on the top and lid.....

This machine definitely has porcelain on both. The 70-series and lower were enameled through 1982, then powder coated after that. Everything 80-series and up post 1981 was porcelain coated into the later 1980s at least, certainly on the belt-drives anyway.

Good luck with the machines guys!

Gordon


Post# 430585 , Reply# 12   4/22/2010 at 19:02 (5,088 days old) by KenmoreGuy64 (Charlotte, NC)        

kenmoreguy64's profile picture
Charles -

Not sure the exact origin of the Limited Edition set, but the last belt-drive models issued for general sale were 1983 models. These appeared in the stores gradually in 1983 while some 1981 and 1982 models were still in mass production. No electronic models were included in the 1983 line, so the Limited Edition had to have been a 1982 or earlier model. There was an '82 electronic model, and the one previous to that was the 1980 Lady K with the woodgrain top, so I'm presuming this machine is an '82.

There were three 1984 Kenmore belt-drives, these were issued and produced beginning in 1983 also, however none were electronic, nor were they available for sales to the general public in stores. They were offered through Toyota as incentives. There was two 400 series machines, a 700, and a Lady Kenmore-esque model. I've seen then all except the Lady. These had different finish on the control panels which had lighter woodgrains, silver on the front panels instead of gold, and knobs were closer together.

I am pretty sure this machine is an '82. When/if we get the model number we'll know for sure.

Gordon


Post# 430586 , Reply# 13   4/22/2010 at 19:05 (5,088 days old) by retropia ()        
Transportation question

It's going to travel in the back of my SUV, so I doubt I'll be able to fit it in upright. Should it be transported on its back? Front? Side? Any other precautions I should take?

Post# 430607 , Reply# 14   4/22/2010 at 21:38 (5,088 days old) by cfz2882 (Belle Fourche,SD)        
chance of oil leakage

i've hauled BDs on the side with no problems,but if they sit
horizontal for a few days they can leak a little oil-at least
in my experience.


Post# 430620 , Reply# 15   4/22/2010 at 22:37 (5,088 days old) by Kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC)        

kenmoreguy64's profile picture
They can leak oil in as few as 30 minutes when a BD is on it's side. Some never leak, others do almost immediately.

I have had dozens upon dozens leak when I lay them down to remove pumps, take off the trans braces for a belt change, etc. It sometimes takes a while for the oil to start flowing, but once it does, if the agitator shaft seal at the transmission cover is worn, oil can flow until half the transmission is drained.

Loosing some oil in a BD's transmission is not necessarily going to cause an issue, but it's 60-weight motor oil, so if it spills in an SUV, you could have a mess on your hands.

I don't like to loose more than a couple tablespoons if I can control it.

Gordon


Post# 430676 , Reply# 16   4/23/2010 at 11:07 (5,088 days old) by retropia ()        
Oil leakage

I can put a tarp in the back of my SUV, so I'm not concerned about a mess in my vehicle. I'm more concerned about doing damage to the washer. The trip is 4.5 hours one-way, so it will be on its side at least that long.

If it does leak oil from the transmission, is there an easy way that Dave can check the level and add more if necessary, once he gets it to its final home?


Post# 430776 , Reply# 17   4/23/2010 at 23:00 (5,087 days old) by kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC)        

kenmoreguy64's profile picture
"If it does leak oil from the transmission, is there an easy way that Dave can check the level and add more if necessary, once he gets it to its final home?"

In a nutshell, No - the transmission would have to be removed from the machine. Then the cam bars, wig-wag, and drive pulley must be taken off, and the cover can be removed and the transmission refilled. There is a small air vent on top, and I've thought about filling oil through it, however the oil is 60-weight motor oil (very thick) and I'm not sure it would flow at all through a tube that small.


Post# 431384 , Reply# 18   4/26/2010 at 17:22 (5,084 days old) by retropia ()        
Update

Dave had a suggestion as to how I might be able to transport this washer upright. He said the washer top can be removed fairly easily. He thinks this will lower the height to around 35". Does that sound about right to you Kenmore people out there?

If so, that's not going to give me enough reduction in height. My SUV's level opening max height is 31-1/2". The angled-opening max height is 33-3/4", but it would have to clear the opening, before being tilted level. Once inside, I've got 35" of height in the cargo area, which might work, but I'm guessing it won't fit in upright through the opening.


Post# 431393 , Reply# 19   4/26/2010 at 18:26 (5,084 days old) by Kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC)        
The top can be removed....

kenmoreguy64's profile picture
To get it off, you have to take the clear hose off the pressure switch and dethread it through the hole in the top. Then the wiring harness terminal block needs to be disconnected and unsnapped from the top, the lid switch needs to be disconnected and the wires taken from their clips, and finally the green ground wire needs to be removed from inside the control panel (that is if the electronic models had this). At that point you should be able to disconnect the top and set it aside.

This machine is considered 43-inches tall from the bottom to the top of the control panel. Taking the top off would probably remove 7 of height. You're still going to be cutting it close, so removing the front legs (which are plastic screw-in type) might help.

Gordon



Post# 431394 , Reply# 20   4/26/2010 at 18:27 (5,084 days old) by dnastrau (Lords Valley, PA)        
Oil leakage through vent

Would it be possible to temporarily plug the vent somehow? Maybe cover the hole with duct tape, etc?

Post# 431401 , Reply# 21   4/26/2010 at 19:09 (5,084 days old) by retropia ()        
Agitator shaft seal at the transmission cover

I also wondered about temporarily plugging the source or sources of a potential oil leak. I was thinking about rope caulk, what you'd use to temporarily seal around windows in the winter. Perhaps start with the rope caulk and then cover that with duct tape, to keep the caulk in place during transit.

If this agitator shaft seal is the potential leak source, and it can be reasonably accessed and covered before loading on its side, would that keep the oil where it's supposed to be?


Post# 431467 , Reply# 22   4/26/2010 at 23:39 (5,084 days old) by Kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC)        

kenmoreguy64's profile picture
It's not the vent that leaks the oil, it's the agitator shaft seal. That area is essentially completely covered by a spin-tube support bearing called the T-bearing, which is itself largely covered/burried by the basket drive assembly which consists of the clutch and spin tube. There is little or no access to parts in there without removing them.



Post# 431572 , Reply# 23   4/27/2010 at 11:47 (5,084 days old) by retropia ()        
Keep it upright for transport

Ok, it's looking like it is absolutely necessary to keep it upright during transportation. Otherwise, if it's working well now, it might not after being transported on its side and the oil leaks out of the transmission.

The next absolute is that I'm pretty sure I can't fit it upright in the back of my SUV.

Are the dimensions on this washer approx. 43" H x 27" W by 26" D? How much would it weigh? 180 lbs.? 200 lbs.?

I'm going to check on a couple of shipping services for Dave, but I'm guessing those will be pricey.

Thanks for the info on the possibility of oil leaks...I would have found out the hard way, otherwise. Do direct-drive Kenmores and Whirlpools have this leakage issue?


Post# 431574 , Reply# 24   4/27/2010 at 11:55 (5,084 days old) by dnastrau (Lords Valley, PA)        
Maybe you can rent a Uhaul trailer

Just a thought...

Post# 431712 , Reply# 25   4/28/2010 at 11:46 (5,083 days old) by KenmoreGuy64 (Charlotte, NC)        
Dimensions and DDs too...

kenmoreguy64's profile picture
The dimensions of the later BDs are: 43H, 29W, 26D (some were 41.5 H). Most metal console BDs from the late 70s on weighed about 220 lbs, plus or minus a pound or two.

Try UShip.com I have used them with great success many times.

The DDs have some design/construction points in common. Their transmissions use the same amount of oil, and have similar agaitator shafts (though shorter). It would not surprise me at all if a worn seal on one of those would leak too, just like a BD. I hear that the centerpost on DDs is better sealed though, so perhaps the transmission is too?

Gordon



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