Thread Number: 28159
Tub seal & possibly bearing gone. A606 |
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Post# 430765 , Reply# 1   4/23/2010 at 21:32 (5,088 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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I posted just about all of the available info for rebuilding these units in the following link.
CLICK HERE TO GO TO qsd-dan's LINK |
Post# 430766 , Reply# 2   4/23/2010 at 21:33 (5,088 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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Post# 430768 , Reply# 3   4/23/2010 at 21:35 (5,088 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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Getting the agitator off without a puller can be extremely difficult if it hasn't been removed in several decades. Since I don't have a puller, I usually end up destroying the agitator and cry to RCD. He then pulls one out for me or turns me loose on the haul away pile when I'm in his neck of the woods. I'm very fortunate!
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Post# 430787 , Reply# 4   4/24/2010 at 04:50 (5,088 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)   |   | |
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Dan and guys, are there any threads available for removing the Maytag motor and slide carriage kit? Or, cleaning the carriage, relubing and replacing the tension springs? |
Post# 430822 , Reply# 5   4/24/2010 at 14:35 (5,087 days old) by fltcoils (South Bend, Indiana)   |   | |
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Because of the leak, I'm trying to heat the agitator without creating more dribbles. A while back I found my ceramic space heater outlet temperature was 180F. Since this is about the temp of the hot water on agitator treatment, I'm trying that. |
Post# 430824 , Reply# 6   4/24/2010 at 14:39 (5,087 days old) by fltcoils (South Bend, Indiana)   |   | |
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Here is my idea for a agitator remover, if the jbweld holds. Also here is my home made nut spanner. |
Post# 431634 , Reply# 7   4/27/2010 at 21:54 (5,084 days old) by fltcoils (South Bend, Indiana)   |   | |
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With help from my spouse I switched from a trailer tire innertube, to using a 27" bike innertube. That plus the hot water inside the agitator eventually worked. |
Post# 431636 , Reply# 8   4/27/2010 at 21:59 (5,084 days old) by fltcoils (South Bend, Indiana)   |   | |
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You can see in the pic the 8 wads of cloth stuffed into the agitator to allow the hot water to stay inside. |
Post# 431641 , Reply# 10   4/27/2010 at 22:07 (5,084 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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Whoa, check your agitator for any crack along the base. That's too much rust build-up for a good seal, especially if the machine had previous work done only 10 years ago.
Congrats on getting the agitator out without damaging it! The shaft can be saved of you use some fine sandpaper on it, followed by a couple coats of zinc. Apply some Vaseline, or equivalent, to the shaft before you re-install the agitator. |
Post# 431652 , Reply# 12   4/27/2010 at 22:45 (5,084 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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I have taken apart several Maytags that have leaked (usually the ones that have sat for years without use) and scratched my head as there were no obvious reason(s) for the leak.
Looks like the transmission gasket has been throwing some oil. I quit using the gasket for the trans halves and now use a high quality RTV after a good wipe down with some brake cleaner. It'll probably be a bitch getting it to separate in 30+ years, but oil won't ever leak past the gasket and make a mess. |
Post# 431660 , Reply# 15   4/27/2010 at 23:41 (5,084 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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It pulls up and out of the brake package once you remove the stop lug from the bottom. Really easy. Replacing the damper pads would be a very wise decision, but you'll need to remove the brake package to do so which requires the brake tool.
I highly doubt you'll find water in the trans. The top shaft seals incredible well. I actually have 2 transmissions laying upside down in the trunk of my car from the last time I visited RCD. That was a month ago and they both haven't leaked a drop of oil. |
Post# 431668 , Reply# 16   4/27/2010 at 23:56 (5,084 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)   |   | |
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Hey Dan, did you see my question about the rust remover? If you do a transmission cleaning and lubricant replacement PLEASE post pics. |
Post# 431685 , Reply# 18   4/28/2010 at 07:35 (5,083 days old) by Combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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The water leak was leaking down around the rusty agitator shaft going over the transmission and spraying on the inside of the cabinet. It was also running down to the damper area and into the brake assembly causing the indexing during wash. The washer can be fixed but its a lot of work if you are sentimental about this washer I would start with the guts of a much better condition donor machine MTs are all over the place for almost nothing especially if the cabinet is ruffed up. That said you need a new agitator shaft damper pads and maybe brake package and radial bearing because of all the water that gotten in that area. The replacement agitator shaft seal is a lip type seal and it needs a perfect shaft for any long term durability you can't sand it down and re-zink it. The transmission gasket is not leaking the black stain inside the cabinet is from dirty water that leaked through the seal area. The tub bearing should be ok just clean it up and add plenty of light machine oil to the top when reassembling.You may also need to replace or at least re-polish the bottom of the aluminum damper cashing if its gotten corroded. It needs to be pretty darn perfect or the new damper pads won't last long.Good luck and thanks for sharing all the pictures and your experiences disassembling your washer.
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Post# 431902 , Reply# 21   4/29/2010 at 12:45 (5,082 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)   |   | |
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Fltcoils...paging Fltcoils...are you still in the building...please respond!!! |